[mobike008]

Originally Posted by dushmish

Mobike, please let me know if 185 is the right size or 195 it is.
Also what impact does it have on handling and FE.

195 is wider than 185 and will definetly improve the handling. Regarding FE, i don't think it will make much difference. If you like driving fast and love to take corners fast, then go for 195 or else stick to 185

Originally Posted by kpzen

Good tire choice. Do not forget to rotate them every 5k kms.

1. Better not to expect anything.
2. Around 6k. Right now a set of 14" HR comes for 12k.

Thanks, will keep in mind. I was hoping, i should get 500 bucks a piece for old tyres. Let me see, if i can negotiate something out of the dealer

[dushmish]

Originally Posted by mobike008

195 is wider than 185 and will definetly improve the handling. Regarding FE, i don't think it will make much difference. If you like driving fast and love to take corners fast, then go for 195 or else stick to 185

Thanks mobike008! More the contact area - less the FE for low speeds and more FE at high speeds is what my understanding says. I am a sedate, conservative driver. I guess I will stick to 185. Maybe on seeing 195 I might fall for them . Shall post my decision and purchase experience soon on my ownership review.

[sam003]

Originally Posted by kpzen

Good tire choice. Do not forget to rotate them every 5k kms.

Isn't rotation must be done at 10K not 5K. any reason you suggested for 5K rotation. I do have XM1 (175*70*13) on my i10 and its done 9K so far, didn't rotated yet and as dealer suggested to rotate after 10K.

[Nikhilb2008]

See, rotation can be done even every 10k kms like you are planning to do. But alignment and balancing should be done abt 5k kms. So, since you are anyway getting work done on your tyres at that time, you may as well get them rotated. It really doesnt make much of a difference. Just that the intervals should be as regular as possible.

@Mobike --- The ride is much better. Actually the Advan Neovas should be giving a bad ride, but because of the increase in thickness of rubber, the ride is much better than before. Also, the car feels way more planted. Since you are upgrading from 175/70-13(122mm of rubber) to 195/60-14(117), the ride will decrease marginally. But the better quality of rubber will benefit(I'm assuming you have S322s).

[mobike008]

Originally Posted by Nikhilb2008

@Mobike --- The ride is much better. Actually the Advan Neovas should be giving a bad ride, but because of the increase in thickness of rubber, the ride is much better than before. Also, the car feels way more planted. Since you are upgrading from 175/70-13(122mm of rubber) to 195/60-14(117), the ride will decrease marginally. But the better quality of rubber will benefit(I'm assuming you have S322s).

That's right Nikhil, i am on stock tubed S322 so i am expecting a huge sea of change since i am moving primarily from tubed to tubeless and comfort tyres like XM1+.

Btw, i am getting a fantastic deal for my existing tyres and alloys and also the new 195 XM1+ too. Most probably will be getting them this evening. Will keep all posted

[dushmish]

Originally Posted by sam003

Isn't rotation must be done at 10K not 5K. any reason you suggested for 5K rotation. I do have XM1 (175*70*13) on my i10 and its done 9K so far, didn't rotated yet and as dealer suggested to rotate after 10K.

Sam, the idea of rotation is to ensure equal wear and tear of all 5 tyres. An easy way to arrive at the right distance is assume the total life of tyres to be 40,000 km. Now do the rotation at every 10,000 km and you will see that one of the 5 tyres never got a chance to be idle in the boot. And we you rotate on every 5,000 km, all tyres get some rest and get an opportunity to be in all 5 positions (front left, front right, rear left and rear right, and of course the boot).

And of cousre as mentioned by someone, you save on the time and cost by getting it done with alignment and balancing.

Hope this helps!

[zensure]

Hi Elsewhere in this forum, there was a concern that 195/70 R14 on 5.5J may balloon. Pl see the link below (post # 512)
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/tyre-a...ade-swift.html

Has anybody experience in using 195/70R14 on 5.5J rim?

Originally Posted by ThE_DoN

I suggest you rather go for 195/70-14's. They will fir nicely on your 5.5" alloys.

Regarding the 185's they cost around 37-3800 and expect around 500/t for your used set.

Let us know your decision and expenses !

[mobike008]

I upgraded from tubed 175/70/R13 to Michelin XM1+ 195/60/R14 on my Accent Viva CRDi. I am still on my first tankful, but somehow i am getting a feeling the FE has dropped considerably.

Can someone point out if the FE will drop after such an upsize? If yes, then what should be the ideal drop?

[Nikhilb2008]

FE will drop. But not noticeable within the city. Due to traffic, there will always be a variation in the FE you get. So, with the bigger tyres, you should have a drop in FE, but not considerable. Also, the XM1+ have lower rolling resistance and shouldnt drop it too much.

Check the tyre pressure. If they are running at a slightly lower pressure, it could play a bigger factor in the drop in FE than the size of the tyres.

[mobike008]

Originally Posted by Nikhilb2008

FE will drop. But not noticeable within the city. Due to traffic, there will always be a variation in the FE you get. So, with the bigger tyres, you should have a drop in FE, but not considerable. Also, the XM1+ have lower rolling resistance and shouldnt drop it too much.

Check the tyre pressure. If they are running at a slightly lower pressure, it could play a bigger factor in the drop in FE than the size of the tyres.

Thanks for the response. I have done only 180kms and gauge is just above the half mark whereas on stock tyres, it used to reach half mark at around 300kms.

I reckon will wait for the complete tankful before i make any assumptions.

Also, i forgot to mention, i got nitrogen filled up and kept a pressure of 31psi all around. The car seems well balanced and bouncy, so no way it can be lower pressure.

Someone was suggesting, i keep a different pressures for front and rear. I have never done it before, i always keep all 4 tyres equal pressure. And increase or decrease 1-2 psi if i am going on the highway....

[Nikhilb2008]

Keep the front tyres at a slightly higher pressure as an experiment. Because generally the front is heavier with the engine, etc. Also, yours is a diesel.

[iraghava]

That's too much of a difference, wait for the full tank test & if that doesn't prove satisfactory check the air filter etc. too.

[Ravveendrra]

Originally Posted by mobike008

I upgraded from tubed 175/70/R13 to Michelin XM1+ 195/60/R14 on my Accent Viva CRDi. I am still on my first tankful, but somehow i am getting a feeling the FE has dropped considerably.

Can someone point out if the FE will drop after such an upsize? If yes, then what should be the ideal drop?

Nice question @ Mobike,

What you did is reduce the profile of the tyre from 4.8 inches to 4.6 inches, at the same time you increased the rim dia. from 13 to 14, so now your wheels are 18.6 inches in dia. compared to 17.8 dia. earlier.


An increase in dia. will do the following: (In your case, the difference will be marginal as the difference is less than an inch in dia at 4.3%)

1. Reduce initial pick up and increase in top speed.

2. Introduce odo and speedo error. The odo will now show less than the actual distance travelled. The speedo will show a lower speed (nice if wifey keeps an eye on it! Bad for own ego though)

3. Increase FE in actual terms (the engine has to do less revolutions to cover identical distance since the wheels now run 58.42 inches per revolution to the earlier 55.6 in).

I do not think you have had enough time to change your driving style to the new sizes. Once you get the hang of them you should see the benefits of the upgrade. With larger tyres (and a Pete's box) you should cruise more.

At one point of time, I did the opposite of what you did - on my Padmini, I put on low profile Good Years on stock rims - LOL guys were zapped by the way it took off from start. Of course I paid the price by way of lower FE.

Check your owner's manual for the recommended tyre pressures & experiment a few psi on either side. But keep the ratio of pressures (front:back) the same. On my present car I use 31 in front and 29 in the rear, earlier I too tried identical pressure all round but could not get the right set-up, I then deciphered the German in the Manual to find that they recommended something close to what I am using now.

If your car is feeling bouncy - it is definitely time to check/drop pressures. The steering should feel light but not bouncy. Bouncy means less road grip.

Cheers,

[Ravveendrra]

I am sorry I made a simple, obvious and silly mistake in the calculations in my previous post. The corrected figures and content should read (changes in bold):

Originally Posted by Ravveendrra

Nice question @ Mobike,

What you did is reduce the profile of the tyre from 4.8 inches to 4.6 inches, at the same time you increased the rim dia. from 13 to 14, so now your wheels are 23.2 inches in dia. compared to 21.68 dia. earlier.


An increase in dia. will do the following: (In your case, the difference will be 6.89 % approximate)

1. Reduce initial pick up and increase in top speed.

2. Introduce odo and speedo error. The odo will now show less than the actual distance travelled. The speedo will show a lower speed (nice if wifey keeps an eye on it! Bad for own ego though)

3. Increase FE in actual terms (the engine has to do less revolutions to cover identical distance since the wheels now run 72.87 inches per revolution to the earlier 67.84 in).

I think you have not had enough time to change your driving style to the new size. Once you get the hang of them you should see the benefits of the upgrade. With larger tyres (and a Pete's box) you should cruise more.

New tyres also take a little time to settle in.

At one point of time, I did the opposite of what you did - on my Padmini, I put on low profile Good Years on stock rims - LOL, guys were zapped by the way it took off from start. Of course I paid the price by way of lower FE.

Check your owner's manual for the recommended tyre pressures & experiment a few psi on either side. But keep the ratio of pressures (front:back) the same. On my present car I use 31 in front and 29 in the rear, earlier I too tried identical pressure all round but could not get the right set-up, I then deciphered the German in the Manual to find that they recommended something close to what I am using now.

If your car is feeling bouncy - it is definitely time to check/drop pressures. The steering should feel light but not bouncy. Bouncy means less road grip.

Cheers,

[mobike008]

Thanks Raveendrra, thats a pretty nice comparison. So your feedback says that an upgrade will actual increase the FE. That sounds good but like i said, it's too early to say and will update after 1-2 tankfuls.

Also, when i meant bouncy ( my own little black book terminology) i actually meant that they feel quite stable and well balanced.

In my own simple test, how i check lower air pressure is, if i slot in 1st gear and throw the clutch, if the car does not fly then low pressure. If there is even a little bit of resistance and car kind of slowly lurches forward, then it's time to get the air pressure checked and i always find atleast 2-3 psi lower

Keeping my fingers crossed for the final FE result. If its a 1-1.5kms drop then no issues at all. However, when i did the upgrade, i haven't bargained for a slump in FE.