[BowMan]

Originally Posted by coloneljasi

It may be expensive when ordered through official MB channels in India, but you can try sending an email to mbclassicsindia@daimler.com.

Or if you can PM your car's VIN, I'd be happy to check with MBIL myself as well as with some of my local sources. Need the VIN to get the exact part number on MB's Electronic Parts Catalogue (EPC).

The correct part numbers are 0034305901, 0044300901 and 0044302301. Google and you will find dozens of sellers with very reasonable rates. Just be sure of the correct one for your car.

[kevinephraim]

Use this site to find your part number

http://mb-teilekatalog.info/?lang=E

[bikertillidie]

Originally Posted by coloneljasi

It may be expensive when ordered through official MB channels in India, but you can try sending an email to mbclassicsindia@daimler.com.

Or if you can PM your car's VIN, I'd be happy to check with MBIL myself as well as with some of my local sources. Need the VIN to get the exact part number on MB's Electronic Parts Catalogue (EPC).

Originally Posted by kevinephraim

Use this site to find your part number

http://mb-teilekatalog.info/?lang=E

Thanks everyone.
I have ordered a master cylinder online.

The online catalogue should definitely help. I have more updates/photos to share.

Shall post them during the weekend.

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by bikertillidie

Thanks everyone.
I have ordered a master cylinder online.

.

Just a small word of caution, you might be aware:

Your brake master cylinder and reservoir will most likely look something like this:



The tricky part is the tubing at the rear of the reservoir. It feeds the hydraulic clutch master cylinder. It’s simply gravity fed from the rear compartment of the brake fluid reservoir and thus normally at atmospheric pressure.

Hence Mercedes skimped on putting hose clamps on it! However, if you want to bleed the master cylinder and brake lines you might use some sort of pressure device. I always have my Eezi Bleed ready!



The first time I put some pressure on the reservoir the hose going down to the clutch came off and brake fluid was spraying everywhere. Nasty, corrosive stuff. Took a long time to clean everything thoroughly with detergent first and water and soap afterwards.

So be aware if you are using some sort of pressure device to bleed the brake line. Check there are proper hose clamps in place at the top (as shown in the picture) and below near the clutch master cylinder.

If you simply pump the brake pedal, or use a vacuum system, it shouldn’t be a problem. It’s only when you put pressure on the reservoir you need to double check.

Good luck!
Jeroen

[Frankenstein]

Don't use the master cylinder kit/parts etc from the indian trax/tempo etc, this will ruin the braking performance. Use only Mercedes original parts. Had this car in the past and have burned my fingers .

[bikertillidie]

Updates as of 22-Jul

The disc brake rotors, brake pads were cleaned, wheel bearings repacked with grease and the parking brakes were adjusted.


While at it, the badly corroded backing plates were also scrubbed clean, patched (wherever required) and repainted before installation.


Valve lash was checked and adjusted wherever needed. The timing chain was checked for stretch and we decided not to replace it as it was very taut.


The brake master cylinder was replaced with a new ATE unit to get rid of the mushy feel. The brakes were bled, and braking feel has improved significantly.

[bikertillidie]

And now the most frustrating part - patiently waiting for spares to arrive ...

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by bikertillidie

And now the most frustrating part - patiently waiting for spares to arrive ...

I know the feeling, although for me it’s usually just days if I have to order. I have the same set of manuals for my W123. They are very, very good! There are separate volumes for parts, engine, body &Chasis etc. etc.

Is that an dashboard dimmer you have ordered?

Good luck with the remaining part of the restoration.

There are a couple of other parts that are notorious “wear parts” on most W123. The steering damper. Very easy to check and replace. Also, on the rear axle the sway-bars are often wonky. Both the steering damper and the sway bars have quite a big impact on the cars handling. Both are easy to replace

Jeroen

[bikertillidie]

Originally Posted by Jeroen

.
.
.
Is that an dashboard dimmer you have ordered?

Good luck with the remaining part of the restoration.

There are a couple of other parts that are notorious “wear parts” on most W123. The steering damper. Very easy to check and replace. Also, on the rear axle the sway-bars are often wonky. Both the steering damper and the sway bars have quite a big impact on the cars handling. Both are easy to replace

Jeroen

Thanks.
Yes, it a dimmer/potentiometer for the instrument cluster.

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by bikertillidie

Thanks.
Yes, it a dimmer/potentiometer for the instrument cluster.

Thought so. Just about all the dimmers on the W123 wear out over time. Nobody ever uses them, because even at full setting the instrument cluster lighting is pretty pathetic, even in pitch dark. So dimming isn't really necessary. Still the potentiometer seems to wear out.

I couldn'be bothered on mine to replace. So I just soldered a wire across the pontentiometer and put it back into the cluster. Still original, plus one small piece of extra wire.

Jeroen

[bikertillidie]

Originally Posted by Jeroen

Thought so. Just about all the dimmers on the W123 wear out over time. Nobody ever uses them, because even at full setting the instrument cluster lighting is pretty pathetic, even in pitch dark. So dimming isn't really necessary. Still the potentiometer seems to wear out.

I couldn'be bothered on mine to replace. So I just soldered a wire across the pontentiometer and put it back into the cluster. Still original, plus one small piece of extra wire.

Jeroen

I am planning a slightly different approach.

I intend to use LED lamps which should brighten up the instrument cluster (hopefully) without having to short out the dimmer terminals.

[bikertillidie]

Updates as of 24-Jul

The engine has been removed from the car.

Javed intends to tow the car to his body shop tomorrow.

[bikertillidie]

Updates as of 02-Aug

The gear box & the fenders have been removed from the car.




Discovered a damaged gear box mount during the process.



Have also managed to source a replacement oil pump from a scrapyard.


Rusty/corroded sections of the bodywork are currently being attended to.

[Jeroen]

You probably thought of this, but as you have everything out of the way I would suggest to replace every single motor and transmission mount. They are not that expensive and do wear out eventually. You can get all sort of peculiar vibrations and noises if they are worn.

[bikertillidie]

Originally Posted by Jeroen

You probably thought of this, but as you have everything out of the way I would suggest to replace every single motor and transmission mount. They are not that expensive and do wear out eventually. You can get all sort of peculiar vibrations and noises if they are worn.

Thanks.
The engine mounts appear to be in good shape.
Will check the remainder of the mounts/bushes.

From what I have seen thus far, they do not require replacement.