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How to adjust throttle play on Interceptor 650 / Continental GT 650

Royal Enfield recommends 2-3 mm of play. This is required to make your motorcycle rideable over bumps and avoid over-sensitivity of the throttle.

BHPian Rehaan recently shared this with other enthusiasts.

After a recent service, I felt like the throttle had become "too sensitive". Bumps on the road would result in a slight twist of the wrist -- resulting in the respective lurch forward from the engine due to the throttle input.

It became clear that this was simply a throttle cable adjustment issue, where there simply wasn't enough back-forth play left in the throttle cable.

The fix was fairly simple, and a similar procedure could be applied if anyone owning an INT650 wanted to sharpen up their wrist-to-throttle connection.

  • Unlock this compartment and pull out the Interceptor's tool kit:

  • We'll need the smaller one of the 2 included Allen keys, as well as the 11mm (or was it 12mm?) spanner:

  • Open up the 2 screws, and make sure that while you're being careful to not let them fall into the engine below, you don't drop the Allen key into that gap in the engine below, like I did:

  • With the cover off, you'll see there are 2 cables attached to the spool of the throttle body. Simply put, one cable is for pull & the other for return:

  • In my case, there just wasn't enough slack in the cable on the "pull" side (cable shown on the left), so I adjusted that to loosen it up by dropping the black cable sleeve lower (pic is taken after the adjustment):

  • After your adjustments are finalized, ensure you tighten up the nuts well so they don't loosen up. Technically you need 2 spanners, but you can get through it with just 1:

Important things to note:

  • Free-play is good! Royal Enfield recommends 2-3mm of play. This is required to make your bike rideable over bumps and avoid over-sensitivity of the throttle.
  • After your adjustment, start your bike in Neutral, rev it up, and turn the handle-bars to the left/right fully. There should be no change in the idle RPM at all (due to the cable length/routing changing slightly).
  • Some slack in the cable also allows for expansion and contraction due to heat and cooling.

Apparently, there's an easier way (but maybe less cool seeming ), and I feel like the rubber boots might tear since they are old now, so glad I didn't mess with them.

Happy revving!

Check out BHPian comments for more insights and information.

 
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