Ah Day 4. It turned out to be the mother of all days.
It started off normally enough. Slight rain hung in the air. For breakfast we decided to have sandwiches at Cafe Coffee Day. They tasted like sandwiches at any other Cafe Coffee Day. And then began the 80 km drive to Dudhsagar Falls.
The route: From Candolim, get on NH 17 towards Margao. Cross the Indian Oil filling station on your left. At the next intersection, get on NH 4A towards Ponda / Belgaum. Continue on this road till Mollem. At Mollem, take the right to go to Kollem. This is as far as your car can go if it is the monsoon season. There is a jeepable road but the rivers are flooded during rains and it is closed.
You have two options.
- Get on the railway track and trek 14 km to Dudhsagar.
- Pay Rs. 500 and a man on a motorcycle will take you on one of the most exciting rides of your life.
We chose option 2.
The moment I sat on the bike the heavens opened. The motorcycle pilot was kind enough to offer me a raincoat. My wife wanted to enjoy the rains and decided not to use any rain protection. This is how it panned out.
Our two motorcyclists got on the railway track. They first got on a disused portion of the track. This stretch was made to divert trains safely in case of a brake fail. Then they got on a pathway off the main track. The pathway was barely as wide as the width of their tyres. This was okay too.
On our way to Dudhsagar.
Who knew a bike could be ridden here?
At some point, they got off the pathway and on to the main track itself. This was scary. The rail line is not a particularly busy one. But if a train were to arrive there was no escape route. Fortunately, they rode this for only a small stretch after which they got on the jeep road.

The jeep road.
For a while it was all normal. Well, at least as normal as it could seem under the circumstances. Until we came to a river crossing. The river was knee deep. We got off the bike and waded across. The guys dragged their bikes across the river and we were off again.

River crossing.
Finally the bikers stopped. One of them went out to check the shortcut which involved crossing a river. This river was a raging torrent of water. There was no choice but to take the long way. This involved trekking long the railway track on foot for 4 km.

The trek along the railway track.
I have never walked in the rain for this long. This was an experience. At the end of what seemed like an eternity, we finally found the famous falls.


This is what we came all the way to see.
Dudhsagar literally means an ocean of milk. One only has to take one look at it to understand why it is so named.
We took a few pictures using our back-up P&S. I always carry a P&S. It is handy. And it is probably the only camera you can use during non-stop rains. I know spadix has used his DSLR when walking through a cloud. I am not that brave. Yet

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On the walk back, one of our motorcyclists asked me to stop. He quickly bent down to flick something off my foot. It was a leach. Luckily it had not attached itself. With slight effort, it was off. Phew, that was close.

This is where the leach almost attached itself.
Remember that knee-deep river we waded through? When we got back, this river had swollen to waist-high. Formed human chain and crossed it. This was a day of many firsts.
After we got back to the place we had parked the car we were wet. We were hungry. There is no place nearby to change into dry clothes. So off we went into the jungle. And changed into another set of clothes inside the Bolero. This was a first time for me. Never knew pulling on a pair of jeans would be this hard in a confined space.
We found a small eatery in Kollem. The best meal I ever had in Goa. Goan fish curry and rice, special veg thali, and roast fish. Delicious. And what was the bill? Rs. 175. For all that! It is almost worth spending 6-7 litres of fuel to drive down to Kollem simply to eat.
We got back to our apartment and crashed for an hour or two. The break did us good. We found a nice place called Jazz Corner in Candolim. It is very close to Fab India, and bang opposite the big supermarket. Don't be fooled by the name. They do not play Jazz music there. But they do serve crabs. And they cook it extremely well. I was thrilled to find crab in this season in Goa as it is.

A plate of delicious crab. All this for Rs. 350 only.
A very nice end to Day 4

. What to look for in Day 5? Old Goa and Panjim. And a quaint little secret that Candolim beach hides.
To be continued.