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Old 14th July 2012, 17:05   #166
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Default Re: Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang

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Originally Posted by SS-Traveller View Post


Not inside, but strapped to the side of the box. A little spillage would not have mattered as the odour would not have filled the cabin.

Edit: P.S. - Which hotel was this at Diskit? Looks nice.
Hey SS Traveller, sorry about any confusion I may have caused, meant 'Master of the Game'. I was happy to see you read my t-log. I have followed the masterly accounts of your travels over the past couple of years. In fact on your advice we had carried two portable cylinders of Oxygen on this trip for any emergencies and the little one. There was no call to use them at any time though.
Regarding strapping the Cans outside the box, I do not think it would be possible as the box occupies almost the entire width of the roof and overhangs quiet a bit over the front and the rear of the roof railing. When the Bolero was traveling with us we did do what you have suggested to the railing of the Bolero as shown in the pictures at the beginning of the log.
The name of the hotel was 'Standel'. It was a lovely place to stay.
Thank you and regards
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Old 14th July 2012, 17:52   #167
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Default Re: Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang

As I said before the Road was perfectly made single track sticking to the middle of the valley. You felt that you were driving on a dry river bed with a road surprisingly built in the middle. There was not a soul in sight, for an Indian this was a eerie sight, we are never alone !!
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-38.jpg

As we approached Agham, we started seeing some attempts at Greening of the land. There were strips of land with tree saplings growing that were fenced in, I guess to save them from various herbivores and cattle.
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-39.jpg

Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-40.jpg

We finally reached Agham Village. We did see a few families working in the fields far away, upon waving our hands at them the entire group stopped work and waved back vigorously. We did not take any photographs of them, felt that we would be intruding on their privacy. They truly lived on their own taming the lands and nature in this harsh and remote lands
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-41.jpg

The Bridge across what I think was the River Shyok.
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-42.jpg

The fork is just after the River and we took the right one to Wari La, Shyok Village would have to wait for our next trip here.
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-43.jpg

The Pristine Waters of the River, It was this Water that was powering the Agricultural Growth around. Water truly is that magic portion that makes this world go around.
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-44.jpg

A Farmhouse amidst fields far away. We climbed away from Agham towards Wari La.
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-45.jpg

We found this excavation atop a Hill side on the way a little after Agham, I do not think anyone was digging for water, it was just about 15 feet deep and lined like a well with stones.
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-46.jpg

Chorten Ruins.
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-47.jpg

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Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-49.jpg

More Chortens. They represent the five basic elements, Earth, Fire, Water, Air and Ether. All living creatures break down to these elements at the end.
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-50.jpg

We had reached Wari La. It was unlike any pass we had crossed earlier. Atop a flattish mountain face. The climb up had been long and gradual, we had passed a changing landscape that became more and more rugged. The Black Top too seemed to have deteriorated completely.
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-51.jpg

Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-52.jpg

The rocks here did not have the rounded surface we had seen earlier. Had these broken out of the surface of the earth much after the rise of the land from the sea?
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-53.jpg

Towards Sakti
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-54.jpg

Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-55.jpg

Step Farming on a Mountain Top far across the valley.
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-56.jpg

That I guess the Water Storage facility of the Village. Pure and Chilled Water all day long .... Problem was the Storage Facility buried you in the stuff for half the year each year.
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-57.jpg
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Old 14th July 2012, 18:33   #168
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Default Re: Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang

The Roads towards Sakti. We were driving downhill again.
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-58.jpg

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The Widely spread out village. We would intersect the Karu - Changla Road here.
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-60a.jpg


Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-61.jpg

Signs of Human Presence. A Calf.
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-62.jpg

And signs of Rodent Presence. This Field Mouse (I think) was a frisky fellow.
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A Yak
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A Marmot. All these Animals seemed to be out enjoying the Sunshine.
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As we entered Sakti, we found that it was decked up and full of People. There was some Religious Ceremony in Progress and all the local VIP's seemed to be in presence.
The decked up streets.
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-66.jpg

these Chortens had a more 'cared for' look.
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-67.jpg

The Sakti Monastery.
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-68.jpg

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Part of the crowd of participants.
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There were a row of Covered Prayer Wheels along the Road, all freshly painted with a few more under construction.
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-71.jpg

Fields along the road as we exit Sakti.
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Ruins of an old fortifications near-by.
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We reach the Junction and take a right towards Chang La.
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-75.jpg

Blue Mountains towards Chang-La.
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-76.jpg
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Old 14th July 2012, 19:03   #169
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Default Re: Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang

Looks like an epic travelogue, would need to see the pictures over a few weeks

Amazing vistas captured beautifully. Please don't mind my saying this but the Ladakh pictures are a tad bit over doctored losing some of the natural magic already manifest in every scene.

monumental effort to post the travelogue, thanks for sharing.
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Old 14th July 2012, 19:58   #170
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Default Re: Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang

Quote:
Originally Posted by Coooolcat21 View Post
I was happy to see you read my t-log.
Thank you for boosting my ego! Not everyday that a lady compliments me for driving around the country and elsewhere, and my wife was definitely upset about my making her sniff diesel fumes all over Ladakh! However, I'd already noticed and rated your thread right back on page 2 (post #26).
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Old 15th July 2012, 11:20   #171
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Default Re: Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang

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Originally Posted by DKG View Post
Looks like an epic travelogue, would need to see the pictures over a few weeks

Amazing vistas captured beautifully. Please don't mind my saying this but the Ladakh pictures are a tad bit over doctored losing some of the natural magic already manifest in every scene.

monumental effort to post the travelogue, thanks for sharing.
Thank You DKG Sir, it was a trip of epic proportions.
I guess quiet a few of the Pictures may apear to be a little over-done.
Keep reading. Regards.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SS-Traveller View Post
Thank you for boosting my ego! Not everyday that a lady compliments me for driving around the country and elsewhere, and my wife was definitely upset about my making her sniff diesel fumes all over Ladakh! However, I'd already noticed and rated your thread right back on page 2 (post #26).
You are Welcome !!
I empathise with your wife, it is difficult.
I did go back and check on page two Thank You, my apologies.
Regards.
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Old 16th July 2012, 09:12   #172
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Default Re: Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang

nice,

BTW and I have seen those stone wells used for safegaurding sheeps at night

And I think from Sakti Junction you take left for Changla , right is Karu
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Old 16th July 2012, 15:21   #173
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Default Re: Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang

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Originally Posted by rkbharat View Post
nice,

BTW and I have seen those stone wells used for safegaurding sheeps at night

And I think from Sakti Junction you take left for Changla , right is Karu
Bharat,

So I guess they lower the Sheep into the well, cover it from top and then in the morning pull them all out. Explains those 'Wells' Thanks.
You are right its not right but left, in this occasion left is right and right is wrong (as it does takes you to Karu). Thanks again for putting it right.
Regards.
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Old 16th July 2012, 15:52   #174
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Default Re: Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang

About those wells, from one of the documentaries I have seen some years back, it is used to hunt down foxes by the gypsies.

A sheep would be kept in this kind of well. The sheep's cries will attract the fox/wolf and they in the interest to get an easy prey jump into the well. Then the gypsies will stone them to death.
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Old 16th July 2012, 16:49   #175
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Default Re: Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang

We continued on towards Changla. There was more traffic now as we had hit the main route from Leh to Pangong Tso.
We came across these beautifully camouflaged birds running across the road, I really doubt that we would have seen them if they had not been crossing this contrasting black coloured background.
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We managed to get one close-up. They just kept sprinting.
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ZINGRAL !!!
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Who can resist posting this snap ?? Not me...
You can not only feel, from your straining vehicle, but also visually see the steep climb to Chang La.
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More of the Beautiful Sky and the Roads.
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The Chorten at Chang La with Prayer Flags fluttering in the chill high wind.
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We saw this behemoth being carted across Chang La. The Massive Truck was performing admirably at this altitude and incline.
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More of Chang La.
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There was a canteen at Chang La and We grabbed noodles and some tea here. They tasted lovely in the Chill and the view was breathtaking.
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The surrounding Mountains as we moved on.
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These Horses looked wild, though I guess they must have belonged to some nomadic Shepherds.
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Photographing this stream was to cost us a couple of hours and the sun set at Pangong. A Heavy price.
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Attachment 957420
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Old 16th July 2012, 17:36   #176
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Default Re: Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang

We continued on towards Changla. There was more traffic now as we had hit the main route from Leh to Pangong Tso.
We came across these beautifully camouflaged birds running across the road, I really doubt that we would have seen them if they had not been crossing this contrasting black coloured background.
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-77.jpg

Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-78.jpg

We managed to get one close-up. They just kept sprinting.
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ZINGRAL !!!
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-80.jpg

Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-81.jpg

Who can resist posting this snap ?? Not me...
You can not only feel, from your straining vehicle, but also visually see the steep climb to Chang La.
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-82.jpg

More of the Beautiful Sky and the Roads.
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-83.jpg

Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-84.jpg

The Chorten at Chang La with Prayer Flags fluttering in the chill high wind.
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-85.jpg

We saw this behemoth being carted across Chang La. The Massive Truck was performing admirably at this altitude and incline.
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-86.jpg

More of Chang La.
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-87.jpg

Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-88.jpg

There was a canteen at Chang La and We grabbed noodles and some tea here. They tasted lovely in the Chill and the view was breathtaking.
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-89.jpg

Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-90.jpg

The surrounding Mountains as we moved on.
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-91.jpg

Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-92.jpg

These Horses looked wild, though I guess they must have belonged to some nomadic Shepherds.
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-93.jpg

Photographing this stream was to cost us a couple of hours and the sun set at Pangong. A Heavy price.
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-94.jpg

So inviting blue waters capped with white.
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-95.jpg

Mountains in the distance.
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-96.jpg
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Old 16th July 2012, 18:15   #177
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We came to a beautifully laid Road, it looked so fresh that one could smell the hot tar.
Next to the Road a Chorten was being refurbished. Surprisingly the intricate motifs were being worked in Cement and mot POP as we had imagined.
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-97.jpg

The reason we could smell the Hot Tar. We missed passing through by a Whisker. They had just closed the road after having opened it to allow the traffic on both sides to pass. We remained stuck here for about 2 hours. It was frustrating as we were fast loosing light and Pangong was slipping into darkness.
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-99.jpg

We consoled ourselves by photographing the surroundings.
We caught this shadow of a Dragon passing overhead, we did not see any in the sky, guess the Chinese had supplied it with a cloaking device.
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-98.jpg

Far away mountains.
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-100.jpg

We moved on finally.
More Horses
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-101.jpg

More Wild Flowers. The land was comparatively less barren here.
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-102.jpg

The Mountains were turning yellow in the setting Sun. We were for the first time in the trip literally racing to the Lake. We paid a heavy price for the delay and missed photographing some of the most beautiful sights along the way
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-103.jpg

Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-104.jpg

A strange amalgamation of white and chocolate coloured rock
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-105.jpg

A herd of Sheep.
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-106.jpg

We stopped and the shepherd immediately picked up a lamb and got it close to us for inspection. It was a pretty little fellow.
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-107.jpg

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Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-108a.jpg

The first view of Pangong. It was a Turquoise coloured emerald in a rustic setting.
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-109.jpg

We rushed on to catch the magic in the setting Sun as we had to leave early the next day and this was the only chance we had. We rushed along the road to get the right angle and the reflections in the water.
As you can see we were not very lucky. We had a booking in a tented accommodation here and as it darkened drove back to find it.
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-110.jpg

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Find it we did. The Tourist settling down to a well earned nights sleep.
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang-115.jpg
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Old 16th July 2012, 19:19   #178
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Default Re: Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang

Quote:
Originally Posted by laluks View Post
About those wells, from one of the documentaries I have seen some years back, it is used to hunt down foxes by the gypsies.

A sheep would be kept in this kind of well. The sheep's cries will attract the fox/wolf and they in the interest to get an easy prey jump into the well. Then the gypsies will stone them to death.
So it was like a trap ! makes sense, specially if you lack fire-arms to kill from a distance. Thanks for the clarification. Regards.


Tomorrow was the day we would be driving along the Chinese Border towards Man, Merak, Chichul, around the Loma bend and Nyoma. Nyoma was our night halt. We had no booking here and would have to find a Home Stay of which we were assured there were plenty and easy to find. Mr. Dorjey of Overland Escape had urged us to experience some village life.
The next day we were to drive through Mahe and our final destination in the wild Karzok on the banks of Tso Moriri.

We loaded all the Diesel into our tank and handed over the empty Plastic Cans and all our excess packaged food to the owners of the Resort. We were rewarded with a huge plate full of scrambled eggs on the House. .

We had a quick Dinner and tried to get some sleep. Unfortunately it turned out to be a night filled with disturbances.
First off it was very windy and the Tents shook like they were possessed, secondly there was a huge group of Bikers who had an animated and loud discussion going on, till well past midnight and robust and fit fellows that they were they were at it again at about 4.30 AM..
Looking back, I do recall hearing a lot of clinking glasses, but for the life of me cannot fathom what could have caused it in this remote location.
It was a frustrating night..
We made the best of it as we could. Hopefully there would be no Diesel fumes in the vehicle tomorrow.
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Old 16th July 2012, 19:45   #179
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Default Re: Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang

Perhaps the most detailed t-log on Ladakh till date.. and only a lady can bring out the details so beautifully. Bravo! Simply fascinating and fantastic photographs!

If any other petrol head had written this, I'm sure there would have been plenty more pictures of the t-fort and the bolero all decked up in mud!
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Old 17th July 2012, 16:15   #180
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Default Re: Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang

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Originally Posted by smsrini View Post
Perhaps the most detailed t-log on Ladakh till date.. and only a lady can bring out the details so beautifully. Bravo! Simply fascinating and fantastic photographs!

If any other petrol head had written this, I'm sure there would have been plenty more pictures of the t-fort and the bolero all decked up in mud!
Srini, Thank You. I did post a few pictures of the Fortuner though I guess we could have had more. Should have the rest of the pictures up by tomorrow.
Regards.
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