If you start trekking in Maharashtra and say like complete 2-3 treks, you will be knowing lot of trek buddies by then. So just during casual discussion where you would be sharing experiences about how you started to trek and all that, a high probability of one question popping up. "Have you done Harishchandragad?" If your answer is yes, congrats!, you are very lucky, everyone would be all smiles. But, if it turns out to be a no, then be prepared to be treated as an untouchable, or an alien, or a person not fit to be in trek society. 10001% a statement would be made, sorry don't call yourself a trekker. I have been through this. I have seen people going through this.
So why such importance to this place? There are many places which are more beautiful than Harishchandragad. But this place has one unique feature which you won't find anywhere else. If you do a image search on Google for Harishchandragad, you will find one particular photo to be in majority. What is this?
It's the almighty
kokankada! A unique art of nature in which thousands of hikers fell in love. It is love at first sight.
So much that I do have an interesting story and experience to tell about it (later). I can bet you on my life, you will be speechless when you see. It is no doubt scary, but you just can't let it go from your sight. You can sit there full day full night for days together just admiring it. Trust me, you have to be there to experience it. Pictures don't do justice. Every time you visit it's a different experience. I have been to Harishchandragad 5 times and I still look forward to visit at the slightest bit of opportunity. Sadly the over-popularity has taken a toll. Weekends are very much crowded. Hints of place being commercialised are now clearly visible.
Routes:
Harishchandragad can be climbed via 5-6 routes.
-Khireshwar-Tolar Khind route: Long and most treaded route. Has a rock patch to negotiate which is made easy with railings installed
-Pachnai: Easiest and shortest of all.
-Nalichi Vaat: The most thrilling. Takes around 12 hours to reach top. Involves technical climbing. Route is dangerous and full of scree. This route basically is a gully between kokankada. Not possible or extremely dangerous to do in monsoons.
-Junnar Rajmarg and Sadhale Ghat: Again less treaded, but thrilling. Good to take locals for guidance.
-Kokankada: The "are you kidding me" route. Only the bravest daredevils will do it. In short you climb the entire kokan kada vertically.
Reaching the base village:
-For Mumbai folks, take the NH222 highway. A very beautiful drive on fantastic roads takes you to Malshej ghat. Once you cross Malshej, you will see a water body on left side, which is the Pimpalgaon Joge Dam. Take left at Khubi fata. A dirt road of around 4kms takes one to Khireshwar. Vehicles can be parked at one of the many homestay hotels. For people taking local transport, catch any bus going towards alephata/ahmednagar and request the driver to stop at Khubi fata.
-For Pune folks, take the NH50 and take left at Alephata and reach the same point point as mentioned above.
I have not tried any other route than Tolar Khind route. This route takes around 4-5 hours to reach top. Parking is easily available in base village Khireshwar. You can even get breakfast/lunch on order. The initial part of this route is through a forest, hence the heat doesn't trouble you. After a 1.5-2 hours climb you reach Tolar khind. A col between mountains basically. You will find a tapri(!) here selling lemon juice, buttermilk. This point serves as a nice break point after a tiring climb. Route coming from Ratangad fort merges here.
A 5 min walk from here takes you to a rock patch. Thanks to the railings installed, this is now very easy to negotiate. Crossing this patch you come to a open area from where you get beautiful views of the base village and the dam. Another climb of 30 mins takes you to the top. Here also you will find a tapri selling excellent refreshing lemon juice and buttermilk. So you reached the top in 3-3.5 hours? No. The actual place lies another 1.5-2 hours from here. You cross 7 hills to reach there. This whole route is in open, hence the heat tires you in no time. There's a shortcut route too, which goes through forest but that just helps from heat. Less people use it and slight chances of getting confused with the route. After negotiating this, you finally come to the main part where you can see caves and a very old rock carved beautiful temple. Now, there are lot of locals which provide home cooked delicious food and tents on rent basis.
The first view of Rohidas summit from NH222
Route till Khireshwar. Dam on both side. Beautiful views
Pimpalgaon Joge Dam
Interesting fort(!). That's Moroshi's Bhairavgad. Fort on a dyke. Visible while going towards Malshej on NH222
The dirt track till Khireshwar. Easily negotiable by any car. Just needs to be driven slowly
Forested route till Tolar Khind
@Tolar Khind. Route seen is the one which comes from Ratangad
Rock patch after Tolar khind. Pic was taken when railings were broken. Now it's very easy with railings re-installed
View of dam after negotiating rock patch
The shortcut route towards temple. After you cross rock patch and climb up, you can see 2 routes. One going straight which is a longer crossing-7-hills-route, while the left one goes through a forest and is shorter by around 30mins
Main area of the fort. Temple, saptatirth can be seen
Harishchandreshwar temple
Saptatirth
The beautiful Ganesh idol, illuminated by diyas
Kedareshwar temple cave. Shivling is submerged throughout the year. Water is icy cold. Shivling itself is around 8-9ft high
An interesting myth about this. The four pillars which are seen, three of them are broken. They say, when the fourth one breaks, it would be end of the world
Camping near kokankada
I was lucky to witness a total lunar eclipse from here 