[shishir333]

This reminded me of a story (Harrier stuck | Google Maps terror | GoDigit RSA for rescue) of my friend who drove through the mud assuming the harrier would do fine. Fortunately you were not in as bad a situation as him.

Eventhough Harrier (FWD) is a very capable vehicle, dont risk it with something which is not a piece of cake even for 4x4s

[svsantosh]

Originally Posted by bil.007

what about the technical aspect...

The tyre was in highway PSI, IIRC Harrier runs on 35Psi. It is rock hard and it will dig into slush like a knife through butter.

Originally Posted by bil.007

what about the technical aspect and how can I overcome this?

Next time you encounter a soft-roading experience, step out of the car, deflate the driven tryes (front in the harrier), if its a RWD - then the rear 2 tyres. Deflate by sticking a pen, or a blunt object into the tyre valve, even your finger tip can help but may hurt. Release air for about 90-120 seconds.

The tyre will visually look nearly like a puncture but not totally. It will be around 20Psi, nothing to worry. Try to drive the car with small throttle inputs. It may help a bit.

Remember this idea will only help to an extent, beyond that it has to be a 4WD to clear difficult terrains.

PS -
1) This idea can work on any 2wd cars.
2) You would need to refill air once you are out of danger, a portable pump can help.
3) No need to deflate the non-driven tyres because they have no traction.

[DirtyDan]

Originally Posted by bil.007

Firstly,

As of now planning to stick with the stock tyres, although would definitely be interested in AT ones at the time of change.

However, I’ve recently installed Continental UC6 on my Brezza (changed at 35k km) and the braking especially has become insanely good ( had Apollo Alnac 4Gs prior) .
Bil.007

Four wheel drive is not a cure-all. You can still get nicely stuck even with experience and a competent 4X4. Slow and deliberate steering and throttle is all important. Look ahead, think ahead. Know your vehicle. Don't take risks in areas where you don't know how to get help..

I like Continentals. They originate in Germany and you find them on many up-market vehicles. I am not sure you can get these (below) in India anymore but I have had these and I like them very much.

[mygodbole]

I think you went sliding around simply because you tried to pick up speed. Speed and momentum are different beasts.

In mud/slush you need to go slow speed, WITHOUT losing momentum. Pop into first gear, don't fight the steering/over steer, go with flow. If you feel threatened, simply take foot off accelerator and the vehicle will roll to a stop.

First gear will give you excellent engine braking and will help negotiate most terrains. Most people run headlong into trouble when trying to speed up.

Since the car is a FWD, use handbrake gently to reduce momentum (like the spoiler on many sports cars).

Airing down a highway tire will have little impact in mud/slush. AT tires handle airing down better.

Hope this helps.

[Padyatri]

Originally Posted by svsantosh

The tyre was in highway PSI, IIRC Harrier runs on 35Psi. It is rock hard and it will dig into slush like a knife through butter.

This is correct.

Firstly, without being disrespectful, as others have pointed out, IMHO, the Harrier looks like what we call here—not a true 4wd. Why? It does not have high clearance, and I suspect it does not have a transfer case for low range (gear ratios).

Notwithstanding the comment above and by others, one of the most trusted and first orders of business when you get bogged is to lower the tyre pressure.

I suspect you were running tubeless tyres - maybe low profile? These tyres are very common and suitable for visits to DMART and INOX, as well as negotiating the road condition and axle breakers and speed breakers courtesy of the local municipality. If they have white lettering on them, their perceived performance, for some magical but inexplicable reason becomes order of magnitude higher.

Ok back to tyre pressures and tubeless (maybe low profile) tyres. If you go too low (what is too low - depends on many factors) you run the very real risk of the tyre unbeading itself and coming of the rim - a real PIA when in the mud. Now you are bogged and less one tyre which full of mud and a rim disappearing into a nice ol' bog - this takes swearing to a whole new level.

Momentum also helps ( to a point) if one has the foresight to foresee its requirements before one gets bogged. This requires a strategic approach when approaching a bog rather than tactical firefighting with the throttle, windmilling the steering wheel, trying to remember which switch to press in what mode err where is that switch, pressing the switch only to see the driver window wind down and then back up - you see that I mean etc etc once in it and sinking.

In Australia people have died because they didn't know that deflating the tyres a bit will get you out of soft sand or a bog.

I have overlanded Australia in my clanger and been to Fraser Island in the same clanger.

On Fraser, I had my first encounter with the 80 PSI club. These were a bunch of cars with tyres fatter than both my thighs combined, treads deeper than the Mariana Trench and the boldest whitest lettering on every tyre. They had every kind of winch, recovery tracks and hi-lift jacks known to aliens, humans and ET- when I drove past them in my banger with stock 7.5x16 12-ply tyres (equip 235/85), aka known as pizza cutters. They looked at me as if I was ET.

Well, I was running 12 psi and ahem with tubes ( I run OEM split rims) . Because I run tubes I dont run the risk of my tyres coming off the rim at low pressures. The lowest I have run them is 8 psi going up sand dunes in the Simpson desert.

So, in summary:

1. Prep ahead - don't just drive in. Plan approach and plan B.
2. Reduce the pressures as much as possible (or dare if running low profile tubeless). Carry a compressor to reflate tyres
3. Use momentum (wisely. If you hit a hidden obstacle at warp speed in the bog, the outcome will likely be very ugly).
4. The best recovery tool is a long-handed shovel. Always have one. Reduces need for gym membership if used often - you develop all the 'ceps - biceps, triceps, quad ceps etc (have I missed any 'ceps?) and a drool worthy six pack.

Optionally
5. Carry recovery tracks, if possible. (Note: if you have a last WARN AI-enabled, space age, powder coated, anodised with personal name engraved winch, it may be useless if you have nothing to winch from. I have been there and done that in the Aussie desert. A long-handed shovel and plenty of sweat and swearing were the only things that saved me).

Finally, as my Instructor said at the end of my 4WD course, now that you know how to manage tracks and situations and get yourself out of trouble, if you ever see an obstacle and a chicken track, avoid the obstacle and take the chicken track. This has served me very well. Wise words.

I have added a few of my own to the wise instructor's wisdom:

1. If you can find a willing and enthusiastic bakra to drive ahead of you into a bog or deep hole - encourage the said bakra and see how it goes. I try and learn from others experiences

2. If the bakra goes well, praise the bakra to no end

3. If bakra becomes a wet meow meow, make some tea and offer to assist and learn from the experience.

In 4WD in dangerous and treacherous terrain, there are no marks for coming first. There are full marks being a survivor. As Rajnikant would say "Mind it"