[Tejas@perioimpl]

Winch: A winch is a mechanical device that is used to pull in (wind up) or let out (wind out) or otherwise adjust the "tension" of a rope or wire rope (also called "cable" or "wire cable"). In its simplest form it consists of a spool and attached hand crank. In larger forms, winches stand at the heart of machines as diverse as tow trucks, steam shovels and elevators. The spool can also be called the winch drum. More elaborate designs have gear assemblies and can be powered by electric, hydraulic, pneumatic or internal combustion drives. Some may include a solenoid brake and/or a mechanical brake or ratchet and pawl device that prevents it from unwinding unless the pawl is retracted.

Source: Winch - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Recommended Reading:

ATV Winch Cleaning and Maintenance Guide, Part 1 « ProMark Offroad Blog

ATV Winch Cleaning and Maintenance Guide, Part 2 « ProMark Offroad Blog

CDMFabrication.com • View topic - Winch Maintenance / Rebuild

http://www.macquarie4x4.com.au/cmsdo...hMaintTech.pdf

http://pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/8274/

http://www.warn.com/fire_rescue/imag...Techniques.pdf

Winches are expensive equipment and need to be maintained so that they serve you when you are stuck without breaking down.

A quote i liked from (http://4x4winches.com/):

A WINCH IS RATHER LIKE A FIRE EXTINGUISHER, absolutely useless if it doesn't work when you really need it and just as useless if it only puts out half the fire. If you are going to the expense and trouble of fitting a winch to your 4x4, it needs to work every single time, whether it is recovering you from a small ditch, or a 200 metre long mud hole

The following points i have gathered from forums and websites and am compiling them from everyone's ease:

- Run the winch cable out about 10 feet and then back in at least once a month if it’s not been used. This keeps the solenoids’ contacts from corroding.

- Never pressure-wash the winch. This forces water into the solenoid pack and motor causing serious problems down the road.

- Don’t silcone the winch to seal everything. The little weep hole on the motor is there to let water and moisture from condensation escape,

- If you work in a high-humidity region, leave the winch cover off or else the cover will keep the winch from drying out.

- If the winch can’t make the pull, don’t crank up the vehicle and use the winch/cable as a snatch strap. If you do it’ll destroy the internal brake assembly or explode the planetary gear set.

- Don’t use the winch cable as a choker with the cable hook placed back over the cable. Doing this will snap the cable every time.

- Spool the winch so the cable comes off the bottom of the drum — not the top. The internal brake is a one-way setup and it only works when the drum spools cable off the bottom.

- If a solenoid goes bad, replace both in the pair; two for in, two for out.

- Never let the winch remote-control cable get sucked into the drum. If the remote gets smashed it instantly short-circuits the control panel, destroying it.

- A straight line from the winch to the object being pulled is critical. (This minimizes wire rope collection off-siding on the drum which can damage rope.) If you don’t have a straight line to the vehicle you’re winching, you can effectively change pulling direction with the help of a snatch block. Secure the snatch block to a point directly in front of the vehicle. This lets you maintain proper drum spooling and achieve extra winching power.

- To achieve extra power, a snatch block provides mechanical advantage. The snatch block is an amazingly efficient tool to utilize, easily doubling your winch capacity. At the same time, using a snatch block also cuts your line speed in half, making it easier to stabilize objects.

- Using a snatch block is particularly useful in situations where your vehicle is closer to the winching situation. A fuller winch drum means less power. Power you can regain, and increase, by using a snatch block.

- Wire Rope: Inspecting your wire rope before and after each winching operation goes a long way towards safe, reliable operation. You’re checking for kinking or fraying. Either situation warrants rope replacement. Also, inspect the winch hook and hook pin for signs of wear or damage, and replace if necessary.

- Synthetic Rope: If you have synthetic rope, the outer line filaments may “fuzz up” with mild abrasion. Typically, this won’t affect the performance of the winch line. When fibers become melted or fused from excessive loads the winch line needs to be replaced. Also check for:
• Inconsistent diameter (or reduction by 25%)
• Exposure to hard chemicals
• Exposed core strands (the grey synthetic cover is worn through)
• Cuts, melting or glazing of internal core strands (these are tan colored)

- Cleaning: Improve the life of your winch by keeping winch, rope and switch control clean. Use a clean rag or towel to remove dirt and debris. If necessary, unwind the winch (leaving at least five wraps on spooling drum), wipe it clean, and rewind properly before storage. Light oil on the wire rope and winch hook can prevent rust and corrosion.

- Vehicle Battery: Operating an electric winch for long periods places a burden on your vehicle’s battery. Check and maintain battery and cables according to manufacturer guidelines.

- Remote: Inspect remote for damage. Cap the remote socket to keep dirt and debris out.

- Lube: No lubrication required for the life of the winch. (debatable point in many other forums).

- When you take the winch for a swim you should ALWAYS at the end of the day run out 20 ft or wire rope, then wind it back in. This will disapate the water that has gotten into the motor area. If you do water submersion often then yes, you will have to take it apart and "service" the unit via the dealer or yourself if you are confident about it. The DIY is explained in one of the links above.

Another take from pirate4x4 regarding lubrication:

Very few if any electric winches are fully sealed. Electric motors gas while in operation and that gas needs a place to go. So if you want to play submarine with you winch, you will need to do a few mods to it. First is to tap the motor for a barbed fitting and run a breather hose. Then you can seal the motor end cap and the field case to the winch frame (liquid electrical tape works good for this). The next thing is make sure the gear box gaskets are in good shape as well as any other seals (clutch, ect). Most planetary winches do not have seals on the drum (Warns 9.5ti and XP do) so I pack a fair amount of grease between the drum flanges and the drum supports. Warns use Aeroshell 17 which has a decent washout rate so it works good for this.

Now for the control pack. I prefer the non I series winches so that the pack can be relocated. The I series winches solenoid housing is not sealed so it will fill with water if submerged for extended periods. The solenoids themselves are not sealed so keeping them out of harms way is a good idea. The control pack is where dielectric grease and spray corrosion guard are your friend. Liberally cover all connections (dont forget the motor posts too) and you will be good to go. (Waterproof winch? [Archive] - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board)

I think greasing the wire is a catch 22 situation: if you grease it then it will pick up every bit of dirt and sand and jam up the winch. if you don't then the cable may rust. Best is to wipe the cable down with a slightly oily rag to try and keep most of the crud off after first scraping it with a brush to remove most of the muck.

Other important points i picked up from some forums regarding lubrication of the wire:

- The lubricant applied should be of the type that does not hinder visual inspection.

- The surface of some ropes may become covered with dirt, rock dust or other material during their operation. This can prevent field-applied lubricants from properly penetrating into the rope, so it's a good practice to clean these ropes before you lubricate them.

- The lubricant you apply should be light-bodied enough to penetrate to the rope's core. You can normally apply lubricant by using one of three methods: drip it on rope, spray it on or brush it on. In all cases, you should apply it at a place where the rope is bending, such as around a sheave ( Pulley Block ). We recommend you apply it at the top of the bend because that's where the rope's strands are spread by bending and are more easily penetrated.

- Your rope's service life will be directly proportional to the effectiveness of the method you use and the amount of lubricant that reaches the rope's working parts. A proper lubricant must reduce friction, protect against corrosion and adhere to every wire. It should also be pliable, and not crack or separate when cold, yet not drip when warm. Never apply heavy grease to the rope because it can trap excessive grit, which can damage the rope. Nor should you apply used "engine oil" because it contains materials that can damage the rope .

- It is also a good practice to oil down any hardware Fairleads / Chrome on your Winch to give it a coating to keep corrosion from pitting / rusting these areas. At the same time you can check the motor terminals to make sure they have Vaseline /Lithium grease etc as the Rubber boots over the terminals are notorious for trapping mud moisture in them.

[Tejas@perioimpl]

Some unanswered questions that i have and if anybody can answer them:

1. Under what load should a winch be wound back so as to have a proper tension without the wire jerking under pulling loads?

2. Ideally what material should the winch cover be? Breathable or non breathable?

[Tejas@perioimpl]

See the following for winch troubleshooting:

[Tejas@perioimpl]

Winch Terminology


GVW Rule of Thumb

Recommended winch capacity over vehicle weight. A rule of thumb is to choose a winch with enough power for your vehicle. Typical use should be calculated with this easy formula: gross vehicle weight x 1.5 = minimum winch size.

Starting Input Torque

The torque applied to the winch input shaft required to start a rated load upward from a suspended position. It is expressed in pound-feet, pound-inches, kilogram-meters or Newton-meters. May be referred to as static torque.

Running Input Torque

The torque applied to the winch input shaft required to maintain upward movement of rated load. It is expressed in pound-feet, pound-inches, kilogram-meters or Newton-meters. May also be referred to as dynamic torque.

Rated Input Speed

The maximum permissible input speed at rated load expressed in RPM. Exceeding rated input speed may cause damage to the worm gear set.

Full Drum or Maximum Layers

A drum containing the maximum number of cable layers which would leave a freeboard of 0.7 x the cable diameter below the drum flange.

Drum Storage Capacity or Cable Capacity on the Spool

The maximum length of a specific diameter cable or wire rope which may be wound on a cable drum without exceeding the maximum number of layers. It is expressed in feet or meters.

Rated Line Pull

This is the rated line pulling capacity that a single line can handle safely without the use of a snatch block or other device. This is measured on level ground pulling dead weight (not rolling weight) from the first layer of cable on the drum. The line pull on any layer that results from the output torque which produces maximum rated line pull on the first layer. Rated first layer line pull is based on maintaining an acceptable structural safety factor while providing an acceptable component service life. Line pull is expressed in pounds or kilograms.

Rated Line Speed

The line speed on any specific layer that results from rated input speed. It is expressed in feet/minute or meters/minute.

This the length of line that a winch can spool off and on it's drum in one minute. Faster line speeds provide quicker winch pulls and are generally found in more expensive winches.

Thermal Rating (Duty Cycle)

The result of a test, expressed as the distance (feet or meters) a load travels up and down while hoisting and lowering a specified weight until the lubricating oil rises from 100°F to 250°F (38°C to 121°C). 250°F (121°C) is the maximum intermittent gear oil temperature allowed. Most gear oils "break down" rapidly at higher temperatures and seals may be damaged.

Amperage Draw and the Battery

With the addition of a winch, the demand on your electrical system can exceed the system's capabilities itself. Consider upgrading your alternator to a high output alternator and be sure your car battery is up to the demand of winching. For more info on Battery Tech, See this.

Electric winches rely on the battery for power and not the alternator. An automotive battery is designed to supply a large draw of amps from the battery in a short period of time, such as when you start your engine. Alternators typically supply under 100 amps. A winch during the pull may demand 400 or more amps from your electric system. It is the job of the battery to supply the the power. Therefore it is important that your battery is capable of supplying the required power. Manufacturers of winches typically recommend a Battery that can supply 650 CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) minimum for winching. Battery Leads to the winch should be at least 2 gauge and shorter than 72" (1.83m).

Note: If you have an Optima battery or any battery with side terminals (flush on the side and used with a small bolt or connection), it's recommended that a winch is NOT connected to these smaller terminals. In most cases they can not handle the full amperage draw of a winch. Use of these small terminals can damage your battery and potentially cause a fire.

Largest Recommended Wire Rope Size

Should be no larger than 1/8th the cable drum barrel diameter for most recovery applications.

Drum Clutch

Also known as a "dog-clutch" or "jaw clutch", consists of two or more drive lugs which engage similar driven lugs to transmit torque to the cable drum.

Free Spooling

The operation of manually unspooling wire rope from the cable drum by pulling on the free end of the rope while the cable drum is disconnected (declutched) from its power train.

Wrap

A single coil of wire rope wound on a drum.

Layer

All wraps on the same level between drum flanges.

Freeboard

The amount of drum flange that extends past the last layer of wire rope.

Mean Drum

A theoretical point located midway between the first layer of wire rope on the cable drum barrel and the top layer. Often used as a reference point in measuring winch performance.

Gear Set Efficiency

The relationship between the input horsepower transmitted to the winch by the prime mover and the output horsepower transmitted by the winch to the wire rope. Expressed as a percentage.

Extension Shaft

The standard cable drum shaft is extended or replaced by an extra long shaft which permits the use of capstans or CR reels at the side of the vehicle. Usually installed on the curb side of the vehicle, most extension shafts are limited to a standard length of 44 to 46-1/2 in. (112-118 cm) from the cable drum center-line.

Capstan

Usually a small removable drum used to apply force to fiber rope wrapped around the barrel with tension applied by hand. Most have a nominal barrel diameter of 7 in. (178 mm).

CR Reel

Collapsible recovery reels are used for picking up and coiling power and telephone lines which have been removed from the poles and lowered to the ground. Most CR reels have a nominal barrel diameter of 20 in. (508 mm).

"Bull Gear"

Bronze alloy gear powered by the steel worm. Braden refers to the "bull gear" as the worm gear.

Fleet Angle

That angle between the wire rope's position at the extreme end wrap on a drum, and a line drawn perpendicular to the axis of the drum through the center of the nearest fixed sheave or load attachment point.

Source: Winch and Winching Terminology - Warn, Ramsey, Superwinch, Milemarker


Another good write up about winch components is here:

http://www.offroaders.com/tech/winch...Components.htm

[Tejas@perioimpl]

Came across this very interesting winch hook modification. Putting it down here for easy reference.

I think we can make this with a longer handle so that we can guide the winch rope from a safe distance and prevent it bunching up. Ofcourse on the site it says never use it for this. What can be the harm if we make a longer handle?

Source:

Winch Hook Minute Mod

Article:

What you need for this is a hand weeder, a stout vice, a grinder (either a bench grinder or better yet, an angle grinder), a cheater pipe, and safety gear (goggles or face shield).


First grind the two points off the weeder to make a spoon-like shape.


Then clamp the shaft of the weeder tightly in the vice, lining it up vertically with the 'spoon' inline with the jaws of the vice.


Slip the cheater pipe over the 'spoon' and start bending the weeder toward you until you can no longer bend the weeder with the pipe.


Remove the pipe, loosen the vice, and finish bending the hook shape by putting the whole weeder into the vice and slowly tightening the jaws.


Now you have a tool to guide the cable while you keep your fingers at a healthy distance.

[GTO]

Thread moved from the Assembly Line -> 4x4 Technical. Thanks for sharing this brilliant article!

[fazalaliadil]

Tejas,

A good insight into technical, maintenance and trouble shooting aspects for a winch user or probable owner.

Helpful thread.
Regards,

[headers]

Hey Doc,

What in your experience is the most critical / crucial maintenance aspect of the winch?

It will help others understand from your experience.

Cheers

[Tejas@perioimpl]

Originally Posted by headers

Hey Doc,

What in your experience is the most critical / crucial maintenance aspect of the winch?

It will help others understand from your experience.

Cheers

Hi Vikram,

I just bought a winch and did research about how to maintain it properly and thought i'd share that research here. I'm not yet that experienced about it yet.

However, i'd think the crucial part is making sure you clean the rope and wind it back properly, never overload the winch (always use snatch block), and do not run it continuously over prolonged periods.

Other longterm winch users will be better qualified to answer this.

[Tejas@perioimpl]

What are your thoughts on the winch saver?

Here's an excerpt:

The Winch Saver is the latest safety and equipment protection device for your winch, as it allows you to stow your hook in a safe manner at the fair lead (cable guide), without metal to metal contact. The Winch Saver is designed to be compressed between the hook and the fairlead when stowing the hook.

Whether it's a Master Lock ATV Winch or any other vehicle-mounted winch, each has a fairlead. The Winch Saver is designed to be compressed between the hook and the fairlead. This allows you to stow your hook in a safe manner at the cable guide, without the metal-to-metal contact you'd have with a bare winch. Until now, ATV winch kits (and other winch kits) did not have this capability. An ATV winch (and other winches) has one of several types of winch hooks, and of course the winch cable to stow after use. The winch motor retracts the hook and cable, all the way in, and then locks with a sufficient amount of tension to hold it in place. The Winch Saver insulates the cable guide from the hook.

Winch systems include cable locks, but winching in safety just got better. For every ATV and truck winch, part of your total winching equipment system must be protection against injury and equipment damage from cable backlash. For ATV and truck winches alike, The Winch Saver protects brush guards, and the operators of those winches, from harm.

The Winch Saver holds tension on the cable thus not allowing slack to accumulate in the wraps of cable on the spool, and holds the hook in a ready and safe position. Just by viewing the photo above, a winch operator can easily recognize a few benefits of this product. The Winch Saver is made of a Polyurethane material, which is extremely durable and will last for years. This material has a very high impact absorption factor. How does the Winch Saver protect the winch operator? During the winching process the Winch Saver is slid about 1/3 of the outstretched cable from the hook and locked on. If the cable or the anchor point is suddenly released with the cable under tension, the Winch Saver would serve as a backlash suppression, greatly reducing the back lashing energy of the cable and hook. Reducing the potential for damage to the vehicle or you the operator. A large number of winch owners have been injured due to cable and hook backlash.

Source: Master lock atv winch, fairlead, bare winch, atv winch kits, atv winch, winch hooks

Other reading:

Pirate4x4.Com - The largest off roading and 4x4 website in the world.


It's approx a $10 buy.

Is it advisable to use a winch saver to tighten the slack? OR use the old time tested method of pulling the cable (keeping it taut) while reeling it in?

[Samurai]

Here is a Warn service manual: http://www.tacomaterritory.com/~ccor..._Sheet_XD9.pdf

The PDF is too big for attaching, hence providing link. The link was provided by Sudarshan Vaidya.

[Sudarshan]

There is something Practical , I have Made in My DIY home workshop , I have shared it before on BHP . but in another build thread

I hope it will be of some use for the winch owners , Its a vandal proof winch lock , one can copy or simply Improvise it

here

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/4x4-ve...ml#post2148906


please also check the post # 1129 , before this (#1131) post

Sudarshan

[Sudarshan]

Anyone here has opened the Warn M 12000 ?

Or knows the procedure to rotate the GB to change the clutch lever position ?

Has it to be moved minimum for two bolts ( distance ) ? no other way shorter ?

I am in a kind of fix, though the job was done & tested successfully for full load , I am still not satisfied . done three jobs in a row like that but still .

Sudarshan

[Sudarshan]

This was to be posted earlier but some how ...

Anyways the grease to be used in the winch , the planetary GB & all

Here to share what I have used while overhauling my winch . A 100 gm tube costed 200 Rs , it took more than 100 gms for the winch .







Sudarshan

[Sudarshan]

Here to share , again something that might be found useful for winch service .

While overhauling my winch few years back , I tried to find substitute remote ( reverse /forward ) control switch & I found one in local electronics market .

This in Pic # 1&2 is a 6 pole center off ( spring loaded ) toggle switch ( Indian ) which can be used in place of the original switch in pic # 3&4

Though not So sure abt its quality but it does not look / feel too bad either .

Have a look









Yet to use this switch ( will do when needed ) but have used a 6 core 1.5 sq mm cable for remote switching instead of the original which is also sourced locally --- altered the remote position & all is working fine .

Sudarshan