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-   -   Jeep: Busted Radiator. Now what? (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/4x4-technical/135691-jeep-busted-radiator-now-what-2.html)

Suppose we increase the size of the header and bottom tanks only, everything else remaining the same. Exactly what effect will it have?

Why not copper?


Where do the cores for these oversize radiators come from?

OT: Anyone remember the Fury. And why it did not ultimately come with a watercooled engine.

Regards
Sutripta

Umm.. well, I think, more coolant in circulation will not have much of an effect, unless there is a bigger option to cool it.

What I meant was, usually here, when we hunt for radiators in the market, bigger radiator = bigger size = bigger heat exchange area = better cooling.
Well, if they overheat, the BIG question is WHY? Like Arka asked, why do these XD3P's overheat when revved really hard? The only XD3P's I know that doesn't overheat is Bolero 2WD's (You know like Jeevan's), which I think is due to gearing?

Please can you enlighten why these engines overheat?
Well, there is always an correct number/value in manufacturing, however, while building Jeeps, especially when it comes to the cooling system, I guess a little extra would be OK, considering the uncertainty of why and how this damn XD3P's overheat! Unless someone like you educates us! :D

I have no idea where do they come from.

I have no idea man, I have only seen a few XD3P's (all of which never overheated). You all use it regularly, hence trying to find out the missing link for this overheating problem.

Spike

Update:

Firstly, a HUGE thanks to all for helping out !

I went for the 'copper + more cores [ 4 ] + custom aftermarket radiator' option.
Got it made from Lawrence radiators - these guys are one of the best out there -
Features:
- 'Quad core' baby! woohoo! :D - this has one extra core
- Cross-flow (the original one was also cross-flow)
- 10 FPI (Fins per inch) - I learned that majority of the heat exchange happens at the fins
- Factory fabricated fan shroud - all I need to give them was the diameter of the fan + half an inch clearance, and the distance of fan from the radiator
- 9.0 psi rated cap, one spare
- spare drain cock

Fitment:
There was no massive drama in the fitment, as they had perfectly lined up the bottom mounting bolts when making the new one.

I was considering swapping out the water pump as well (thanks Spike for the part number) - but the old one was just fine.

We discovered that the right engine mount had broken :eek:, and this was also causing the engine fan to be off center. So we got that fitted right away as well.

Reports:
A/C switched off - 2:00 afternoon - Sion to Navi Mumbai bridge toll naka - needle does not cross 75
Next day,
A/C switched on - crawling stop-start traffic - (Mumbai was being paid a visit by some 'luminary') - temp needle did not cross 80

I am cautiously happy that this thing is getting the job done.

Too low engine temp is also not good as a heated and lubricated engine lasts much longer.Make sure the thermostat is installed. Typically the radiator should read around 90 degree and coolant must be used to elevate the boiling point of water to ~110 degree plus - as you mentioned - pressure cap to elevate boiling point even further and not let any coolant leak away.

Would this have anything to do with the 'dress levels' ?
I understand these to mean the combination of aggregates for the target use-case of the engine.
For example : XD3Ps are used in Peugeot 505s and Caterpillar forklifts - so given that a sedan would most likely have different radiator airflow characteristics, than a forklift - would the radiator not be different ? Same goes with target workloads, neh?

I've yet to see a forklift do 30+ kph...