[bigman]

The usual factory fitted handbrake on the 550 is not known for being durable. Someone suggested fitting the handbrake from a car between the front seats.

Has anyone who has undertaken this job please provide some details.

Thanks

[4x4addict]

@bigman:

I threw away the OEM handbrake that comes at the right side below the dash.

I am planning to use an Invader unit (between the two front seats set up). I figured the dimensions are somewhat the same so the cable etc, should be a good fit. I will update you after I have figured this out.

[ex670c]

Originally Posted by bigman

The usual factory fitted handbrake on the 550 is not known for being durable. Someone suggested fitting the handbrake from a car between the front seats.

Has anyone who has undertaken this job please provide some details.

Thanks

Hi Bigman,

You will have to use the Commander 98/Marshal/Bolero Rear Drum Brakes and Carrier plate to fix the Hand Brake.

Regards,

Arka

[bigman]

Thanks Arka and 4x4addict.

Just spoken with the mechanic and he was going on about having fitted a esteem handbrake in a 550. Not sure if he was just talking about the brake lever.

Are the Bolero brake drums a straight fit or require some jugaad work?

[arun27g]

Originally Posted by bigman

Thanks Arka and 4x4addict.

Just spoken with the mechanic and he was going on about having fitted a esteem handbrake in a 550. Not sure if he was just talking about the brake lever.

Are the Bolero brake drums a straight fit or require some jugaad work?

Dear Bigman,

Were you able to fit a handbrake on to the MM540?. I am planning to have my CJ500D fitted with one. The original mechanism has past its life (not that it was great while it lasted) and now, I am looking for a decent handbrake.

Objectives are
1. I have 3 unavoidable inclined stop points, of which 1 is quite steep where I have to keep red stones behind the rear tyres, the other 2 managed by parking on reverse gear.

2. I am what you may call, a light-medium off-roader and at times, I find it difficult to switch off the engine to inspect a trail. The missus has not yet complained that I ask her to hold on to the brakes!, but I think, she soon will.

Thanks in advance for any inputs, also request you to direct me to any threads that cover this detail.

Cheers

Arun

[ringoism]

Personally, I think this:

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/4x4-te...ne-lock-2.html

is a wonderful solution, and something I'll be doing on the Marshal when I find the time (already bought the valve, in Delhi at Ajmeri Gate).

Only snag is that the brass compression fittings I got with the valve are 6mm dia. (only other size on offer was 4mm), and the Jeep's brake lines are 5mm... Will have to join them by brazing, but need a couple short lengths of 6mm pipe to seal the fittings, at least.

-Eric

[jyobeb]

Not really advisable as it keeps the brake line fluid under pressure constantly.

[ringoism]

Originally Posted by jyobeb

Not really advisable as it keeps the brake line fluid under pressure constantly.

Originally Posted by arun27g

Objectives are
1. I have 3 unavoidable inclined stop points, of which 1 is quite steep where I have to keep red stones behind the rear tyres, the other 2 managed by parking on reverse gear.

2. I am what you may call, a light-medium off-roader and at times, I find it difficult to switch off the engine to inspect a trail. The missus has not yet complained that I ask her to hold on to the brakes!, but I think, she soon will.

Parking-type applications (depending on length of time) might constitute "constant pressure" - but in a case like Arun's secong (OTR) requirement, it is a fact that a ball valve is not going to be holding any higher pressure for any longer than what his dear missus (God bless her) is currently achieving with her foot. I believe these requirements match SVSantosh's original objectives with the system, as well. Mine is similar - I park daily on an incline just using the gears, but there's inspecting trails, water crossings, or else more mundane events like just needing to hold the car securely for a couple minutes while I throw the trash in a public dumpster, or stop for a photo op, or when my tamper-prone kids are in the car but I'm momentarily not (even when it's shut off - 'cause they love that gear lever). In truth, my self-starter and clutch-actuation components have probably been getting twice the wear and tear they ought to be these past couple years (my own missus is great, but I don't trust her to effectively hold onto two kids AND a brake pedal).

That said, I'm also honestly wondering whether the concerns about constant pressure are wholly warranted. The company I earlier worked for re-manufactured 40,000-50,000 brake master cylinders per day (yes, DAY). Those weren't my product lines, but Integrated Anti-lock brake systems (as produced by Bosch and others early on) were (which included booster, master cylinder, and ABS solenoid valves, etc, in one unit). These had a huge number of rubber seals, including a few that were exposed to the constant high (1000psi+, if I remember right) pressure of the accumulator utilized in the booster section. I don't claim to be a rubber expert, but my impression is that if the EPDM rubbers used in automotive braking systems are going to be deformed or otherwise damaged by constant pressure, it's going to happen to parts that are already age-hardened and technically due for replacement anyway. The major failure modes I've always seen in brake system parts were 1. age-hardened seals; 2. worn seals, mainly due to abrasives in the fluid; 3. pitting and corrosion of bores and metal components (the source of most of the abrasives), due to atmospheric moisture absorption. Oh, and then there were the failures due to 4. aspiring DIY'ers putting motor oil, power steering fluid, transmission fluid, or etc. in their brake reservoir... (Uh, believe me, you really don't want to do that).

As a final defense of what I think is a viable system, let's remember that two years on, apart from degradation of the low-grade ball valve, SVSantosh's setup has continued to perform flawlessly in real-world on-road/off-road use. For many, that would be evidence enough of its potential value. I'm gonna do it.

Many Thanks,
-Eric

[Sutripta]

Originally Posted by ringoism

That said, I'm also honestly wondering whether the concerns about constant pressure are wholly warranted.

My view: The pressure is not a problem, the nature of hydraulics is. The leakage (whatever, wherever) of even one drop releases pressure.
In a Jeep one gets away with it because of the spring loaded shoes of the rear drums. Adds 'compliance' to the system.

Regards
Sutripta

[svsantosh]

Originally Posted by ringoism

...SVSantosh's setup has continued to perform flawlessly in real-world on-road/off-road use. For many, that would be evidence enough of its potential value...

For the record, Eric, the Ball valve packed up in the hands of the new owner and I bought a new valve and shipped it across to him. It worked for 2 years approx.

PS - If you noticed the RFC India thread, the exact system was seen on the imported Land Rover too.

[ringoism]

Originally Posted by svsantosh

For the record, Eric, the Ball valve packed up in the hands of the new owner and I bought a new valve and shipped it across to him. It worked for 2 years approx.

The full quote would've included what I preceded that with, "apart from degradation of the low-grade ball valve..." Incidentally, the valve I bought from Ajmeri Gate (Delhi) is supposedly Italian-made - looks to be of a bit better design than the deshi units offered in most of the other shops, and I'm hoping for better than two years. If I could find a panel-mount type valve (used these earlier in my engineering work), it would make mounting a lot simpler - these have two tapped holes directly in the body of the valve, so could just drill corresponding ones in my metal dashboard and have it done SO easily. Couldn't find them there, though - if anyone out there knows a source, I'd be appreciative.

-Eric

[ringoism]

Originally Posted by Sutripta

My view: The pressure is not a problem, the nature of hydraulics is. The leakage (whatever, wherever) of even one drop releases pressure.

Yes, one will definitely be doing something risky if he/she installs this setup on a system that's leaking even one drop from anywhere in the system. Especially if it's leaking that one drop in a matter of minutes.

Thanks,
Eric

[Sutripta]

^^^
The most likely 'leakage' is likely to be backflow through the valve itself.
Shutoff valves have leakage classifications.

Regards
Sutripta