[jeeva]

Congrats on the jeep!
I can see that you already have a fully floating rear axle!

[blueblooded]

@jeeva
thanks .
Whats fully floating rear axle

[jeeva]

Simply put, a fully floating axle is considerably stronger and has more load carrying capacity than a semi floating one.

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/4x4-te...ating-etc.html

[blueblooded]

I am posting some more pictures of my jeep .I need suggestion on what has to be done to repair the missing nuts from the wheels .What is the process,does i need to re thread the bore of the bolts or i have go for replacing the wheel housing completely.please refer to the pics

Moreover in the second picture the rusting is all too apparent and needs immediate attention .The area under the red rectangle is deeply rusted ,now whats the solution ,changing the whole glass frame or only tinkering would suffice.

Thirdly , I want to make my jeep completely open and seeking to make the front glass frame reclined to the bonnet .What needs to be done for the same

some more pictures of the baby

[blueblooded]

Originally Posted by sreejeshmp

Congrats .

Be ready to give way for Ape & Ace.

You are very true , and i am well prepared for it but then ,the places where this beast can take me there would be just apes and monkeys
On the serious note , i was looking for mm540, but then vitamin came my way ,but i prepared to go that extra mile for that mm540 or 550 for that matter

Originally Posted by ex670c

Hi Blueblooded,

Congratulations & Post outside pics of the JEEP. (Tail Gate & Dash Board).

Please check the Wheel Disc one in the front is very rusted and the Tube will get pinched near the valve.

Regards,

Arka

I have posted some more pics for your perusal and expert guidance .
Secondly i want to know whether i should go for the underbody work after dismantling the whole body from the chassiss ,considering the rusting of the chassiss and the body .

Note from the Team-BHP Support Team: Please use the "edit" button if posting within 30 minutes of the first post, instead of creating another back-to-back post.

Also use "Multi Quote" option for quoting Multiple posts.

[blueblooded]

Hi friends , I am learning fast the intricacies and nuances of owning a jeep.
People are advising me to go for engine swap with the second hand DI ENGINE .
Moreover ,Kindly tell me whats the use the flywheel of the texted picture I am attaching

[ex670c]

Originally Posted by blueblooded

I have posted some more pics for your perusal and expert guidance .
Secondly i want to know whether i should go for the underbody work after dismantling the whole body from the chassiss ,considering the rusting of the chassiss and the body .

Originally Posted by blueblooded

Hi friends , I am learning fast the intricacies and nuances of owning a jeep.
People are advising me to go for engine swap with the second hand DI ENGINE .
Moreover ,Kindly tell me whats the use the flywheel of the texted picture I am attaching

Hi Blueblooded,

Let me gain some expertise, then maybe I can share it with you.

From your pics and description.

1) Body has been changed to a M&M Major/CL550

2) Rear Axle is older 2 Piece FFRA.

3) The Drum on the Rear Prop-Shaft is the Hand Brake.

4) wrt rebuilding.
Get the Papers transferred to you name FIRST.
ii) Get the entire mechanical assembly rebuilt and lubed.
i) Front Axle - Brakes/Hubs/Diff/Prop-Shaft
ii) Steering System/Bell-Crank/TRE/Steering Box Clamp
iii) Gearbox & T-Case
iv) Rear Axle - Brakes/Hubs/Diff/Prop-Shaft
v) Leaf Springs & Shock Absorbers
vi) Engine
a) Change Oil & Diesel Filter
b) Clean Diesel Tank
c) Change to MDI3200TC Paper Element Air Filter

If the engine is running let it run. Don't waste money on unnecessary work. Use the vehicle for 3 months then get the under body cleaned and painted.

Remove the body from the chassis, and strip and repaint both.

Regards,

Arka

[blueblooded]

Thanks a lot friend , yes the said jeeps body has been trasformed to major 550 in the year 2007.
I am interested in buying a pair of lambda free wheeling hubs for the front wheel ,so that i can disengage the front wheel drive mechanism when driving on the tar.All i want to know that which specific free wheeling hub to order , or there are only the generic hubs which can be fitted to any 4wd vehicle .
I have got the details of the Lambda distributor from delhi , but before placing the order i want to make sure the correct part is ordered.

[jeepster]

Originally Posted by blueblooded

Thanks a lot friend

I have got the details of the Lambda distributor from delhi , but before placing the order i want to make sure the correct part is ordered.

arka is the encyclopedia of the mahindras.


& as far as the hubs are concerned they are a standard item so one fits all. (mostly all mahindras)
BTW lambda only make one type of free wheeling hub so no chance of mismatch.

rgds,
Nikhil

[blueblooded]

@jeepster
I had chat with the distributor of lambda free hubs at Delhi ,he quoted me 1220 for the pair of hubs but told me that they were out of stock as of now and i have to wait for 5-10 days to get the confirmation

[blueblooded]

I am reposting a picture of front console of the jeep.Kindly tell me whats the role of the smaller lever of the 4wd levers .
@Arka ,please help me out ,oil pressure metre of my jeep never goes up above 1 howsoever hard i push the gas pedal.
What does it mean? faulty meter or anything else.

[blueblooded]

Originally Posted by ex670c

Hi Blueblooded,

Let me gain some expertise, then maybe I can share it with you.

From your pics and description.

1) Body has been changed to a M&M Major/CL550

2) Rear Axle is older 2 Piece FFRA.

3) The Drum on the Rear Prop-Shaft is the Hand Brake.

4) wrt rebuilding.
Get the Papers transferred to you name FIRST.
ii) Get the entire mechanical assembly rebuilt and lubed.
i) Front Axle - Brakes/Hubs/Diff/Prop-Shaft
ii) Steering System/Bell-Crank/TRE/Steering Box Clamp
iii) Gearbox & T-Case
iv) Rear Axle - Brakes/Hubs/Diff/Prop-Shaft
v) Leaf Springs & Shock Absorbers
vi) Engine
a) Change Oil & Diesel Filter
b) Clean Diesel Tank
c) Change to MDI3200TC Paper Element Air Filter

If the engine is running let it run. Don't waste money on unnecessary work. Use the vehicle for 3 months then get the under body cleaned and painted.

Remove the body from the chassis, and strip and repaint both.

Regards,

Arka

Dear Arka ,please enlighten me as to what entails the rebuilt of entire mechanical assembly and lubrication,I mean please tell me the what part i have to rebuilt ,so that i can supervise the mechanic and not be cheated by them .
2.What needs to be done in Gear box and T-case?
3.Steering assembly- what needs to be done ?And what are the signs of steering needing attention?
My question might sound childish but then ,i am novice and learning the tricks of jeepsters

[Jaggu]

Mechanicals include Engine, Gearbox, Transfer case, Steering System, Brakes, Suspension, Differential etc. The drum you posted above is the parking brake drum.

Gear box and TC is they are working fine you can just do an oil flush and let it be. The small lever is the HI-Low ratio selector.

Steering assembly service the box and check for play, replace the tie ends etc. Check and lubricate each component as required.

Regarding oil pressure first try to flush the engine oil and fill new, also clean the oil pump and stainer assembly inside the sump. See if pressure improves, if not you need to attend to the engine, its signs of weak engine.

[jeepster]

Originally Posted by blueblooded

@jeepster
I had chat with the distributor of lambda free hubs at Delhi ,he quoted me 1220 for the pair of hubs but told me that they were out of stock as of now and i have to wait for 5-10 days to get the confirmation

1220/-

IMO they cost 3K (without bill) at the factory outlet.

LAMDA COMPONENTS PVT. LTD.
Shed # B-101, Veerasandra Industrial Estate,
Hosur Road, Bangalore – 560 100, Karnataka, India.

Ph.No: +91 80 2783 4118, 6559 7199

Tele Fax: +91 80 2783 1078

Email: lamdacomponents@gmail.com

[blueblooded]

Originally Posted by jeepster

1220/-

IMO they cost 3K (without bill) at the factory outlet.

It seems that has to be some serious misunderstanding on the part of parties involved.The said distributor took his time to quote the price and checked multiple times as to the veracity of the quote, but he was insistent .Lets see , how it turns out to be .
I may sending one of my friends in delhi to get the free wheeling hubs from the distributor .If the price is as aforesaid we are going to reap much dividends

Originally Posted by Jaggu

Mechanicals include Engine, Gearbox, Transfer case, Steering System, Brakes, Suspension, Differential etc. The drum you posted above is the parking brake drum.

Gear box and TC is they are working fine you can just do an oil flush and let it be. The small lever is the HI-Low ratio selector.

Steering assembly service the box and check for play, replace the tie ends etc. Check and lubricate each component as required.

Regarding oil pressure first try to flush the engine oil and fill new, also clean the oil pump and stainer assembly inside the sump. See if pressure improves, if not you need to attend to the engine, its signs of weak engine.

Is it advisable to go for engine flush when the engine is already low on compression ,I am afraid it might make the engine compression much more weaker and might entail immediate engine overhaul.
As regards the high low lever selector ,what does it meant for , i mean whats high and whats low and its used

Note from the Team-BHP Support Team: Please use the "edit" button if posting within 30 minutes of the first post, instead of creating another back-to-back post.

Also use "Multi Quote" option for quoting Multiple posts.