[ampere]

I dont have to comment on this epic. It speaks for itself. But @adc, you are the only guy in bhp who can park his vehicle in the room where he stays put for the night!

Beautiful!

[adc]

Day 4: Tangste - Chagar Tso - Lukung [Pangong Tso]

Today, as the day and the bicycle ride starts on September 12, 2013, should be quite an eventful one as per the schedule. The first two lakes on the list in this Lakes of Ladakh travel should be coming up on this day.


On a remote solo journey - one rule I follow, never bypass the opportunity of a good breakfast or food. Never know when the next good meal will come! As such had some cornflakes, toast and omelets and of course some great tea to go with.



A bye to the wonderful owner and the attendant - a great place to stay in Tangste.



Before starting, took a picture of that absolutely new hotel as it dazzled and gleamed in the morning sunlight.



Cycle back out from Tangste village to that junction and take the upper road that now leads to Pangong.



On towards Pangong now.



It's beautiful day today as the good tarred road cuts through the vast expansive mountain landscape.



Brilliant day to cycle. Mid of September almost nil tourist traffic to Pangong. Just relax a bit not for any tiredness or such, but just to enjoy the sun and the vast empty surroundings.



Leaving Tangste and some distance later, some pasture lands drained by streams .



A solo journey, no rush, brilliant landscape and blazing mountain - I spend quite a bit of time out in this stretch, deliberately cycling slow and stopping a few times in between.







And the slow bicycle ride continues..



till I come to the first listed lake on this Lake of Ladakh cycling expedition - Chagar Tso


contd..

[Indian Ranger]

Thank you ADC. Not an easy expedition to undertake & complete. You have showcased it so brilliantly for all of us to get motivated. The enjoyment of solitude is very well put together by your words and pictures.

Superb stuff and Happy to see Leh & Ladakh through your lens and bike again.

God Bless!

[adc]

Day 4: Tangste - Chagar Tso - Lukung [Pangong Tso]


Chagar Tso is a small lake - the first lake [not counting the small unnamed thus unofficial lake after Chang la] that one comes across while coming from Leh to the much more famous Pangong Tso. A beautiful small lake by its own right, the grass turning yellow as winter sets in.



Will copy-paste a sentence from Tanveer travelogue - remember as it is so apt. "This is the lake which is right there, but invisible. Nobody sees it. Maybe there is some kind of worm hole which others pass through, which bypasses the lake, or maybe there is magic here, and it shows itself to only those who want to see it"


Time to move on after spending quite a bit of time out here, roaming here and there in complete solitude.





Crossing Chagar Tso, a kind of arid area comes with sand encroaching on to the tarred road.



Among military and tourist taxi tyre tracks heading towards Lukung and Pangong, a bicycle also leaves its tread marks. The narrowest and widest tyre tread pattern side by side!



The visuals more stunning as I cycle on towards Lukung and thus Pangong.







A BRO road labourer tent by the side of the road - the vast magnificent scenery though belie their harsh living condition.



Seeing a cycle pass by, they of course definitely come to check me out!



On the Manali-Leh route quite a few bailey bridges are crossed - though on towards Pangong till now this the first one - just a very minor trivia!



and still the beautiful journey continues, as I stop often. I am in no rush. Lukung is near and should reach comfortably before the day end. I was curious to know why just before Pangong, after Tangste we encounter desert areas punctuated by small water bodies. Studies by GSI indicate that it has been the result of damming of a river channel which was flowing to Shyok drainage from western end of Pangong Tso via Muglib – Tangtse – Shyok. The drainage got blocked near the present western end of the Pangong Tso and a backwater lake originated. [Source]



Finally here it is - one of the most famous signage of Ladakh, as I am almost at the threshold of one of the most magnificent lakes seen on this planet - Pangong Tso of Ladakh.



contd..

[adc]

A slow descend and an experience to cherish as the Pangong slowly and slowly comes more to view. It is like curtain rising as the magnum opus of Nature is unveiled.







That road that branches off as one nears Lukung [Pangong Tso] leads to the model village of Phobrang through the welcome gate. Marsimek la is around 32 km from here.



Myself off towards the 2nd lake on the Lake of Ladakh bicycle ride, Pangong Tso.



Only if both would have agreed to open the Lhasa road from this side! The board distances are just fun facts otherwise.



Descending towards the tents and camps, some put up by the local folks from the nearby village of Lukung. Lukung is the first village from where Pangong Tso is accessible from the Indian side.



Skipping a few dhaba tents, picked one up in random, having a name as Tiger Restaurant, and confirmed it for my overnight stay at Lukung. Black clouds have gathered suddenly on the horizon, blocking the evening sun.



A cup of tea and some biscuits, I am off towards the bank of Pangong. Absolutely empty in mid September, at 4 pm, bicycle and myself are on the shore of the magnificent lake of Pangong.

[adc]

Pangong Tso, Tibetan for "long, narrow, enchanted lake", also referred to as Pangong Lake, is an endorheic lake in the Himalayas situated at a height of about 4,350 m (14,270 ft). It is 134 km (83 mi) long and extends from India to Tibet. Approximately 60% of the length of the lake lies in Tibet. The lake is 5 km (3.1 mi) wide at its broadest point. All together it covers 604 km2. During winter the lake freezes completely, despite being saline water. It is not part of Indus river basin area and geographically a separate land locked river basin. - Wikipedia.

Finally after some 180 km of bicycling from Leh, on September 12, 2013, at around 4 pm, standing on the shore Pangong Tso. Black clouds have cut off the evening sun rays and thus was a tad disappointed as I missed out on the golden mountain colours as the sun sets. Though still the view and landscape captivating as ever.












As I spend my time out here, clicking or just roaming around on the bank, the clouds clear just for a couple of minutes or so, and I do get a glimpse of the brilliant sunset of Pangong. The sun rays peeked through the clouds to fall upon the high mountains surrounding the Lake revealing the brilliant golden colour that a sunset at Pangong is so well know for.



All for a minute or so, before the sun is again blocked by the clouds.



Light was fading now and it was time to go back to the dhaba tent..



.. but not before snap with the bicycle on the bank of Pangong.

[adc]

Almost 6 pm now, overlooking the Pangong while having some noodles at the dhaba tent named as Tiger Restaurant.




With almost zero tourists mid September 2013 and a serene late evening, relax as dusk approaches. Watch as a scooter of a local from Lukung village goes by..



to a father playing with his kid..



and a monk lama connect with his inner salvation as he prays on the bank of Pangong.



Dusk approaches, as darkness envelops Pangong and its surroundings.



It is quite cold outside, close to zero or so plus windy. Night is early and with me being the only tourist in this tent, food [Maggi] is served early by 7:30 pm. The tent dhaba guy has some of his friends come over for some chang [local liquor] and on being offered the same, promptly fill up glass - most invigorating in this cold windy night of mid September!



By 9 pm, back to bed. Another memorable day comes to end, though tomorrow should be another one too - I have preplanned a super-slow bicycle ride all along the bank of Pangong. I had no doubt it would be a experience beyond comparison, never I would like to hurry on that - just wished that the black clouds vanish by the time I get up.




contd...

[JoseVijay]

Amazing pics and an inspiring thread.

No words to express our gratitude for taking us through one of the most beautiful places in the world.

I am sure others will agree with me that not only Vehicles have BHP, even ADC has got BHP in him.

[tsk1979]

Though you were on a cycle, the speed of your travelogues is faster than my car ones
Bring it on.
This one is a real epic. I know the even more epic epic is in the making... but I will keep mum for now

[mr.sinha]

Originally Posted by BlackPearl

5 stars are not enough, not for this thread and not for you. TBHP moderators need to make an exception for you to allow 10 stars for the thread and Super-Distinguished bhpian status for you. Absolutely spellbound.

P.S. - I have been trying to contact you for the last 1 month. Please let me know if you are in Kolkata as there is a meet on the 3rd of August and people are expecting the only distinguished bhpian from the area (the other d-bhpian does not attend meets )

Fully agree about the stars. 5 ain't enough here.

Sumitro, please let me know the details about this 3rd August meet. Would love to meet the TBHP veterans of Kolkata.

[mr.sinha]

Sumitro, never mind. I found the Kolkata meet thread and pitched in there today.

[parsh]

Originally Posted by adc

Day 3: Zingral - Chang la [5360 m/17,5886 feet] - Durbuk - Tangste -- contd...

I have tried to know more about this lake and searched about it in maps. Asked a few in Leh even about it later, but to no avail. So, though Chagar Tso officially is the first main lake in this Lakes of Ladakh bicycle ride but this unnamed small water-body/lake is actually the first one on this ride.

Attachment 1265658

Indeed some of the unnamed water bodies been bugging me since long. We did see that lake and before that one more (?) totally frozen water body, looked liked a small sizable lake, but not sure. In sequence as seen after Tsoltak.

The totally frozen water body


The lake you mention from a bit farther up


And hats off to you once again. This is getting just too much. You have the undaunted unstoppable will and have a vehicle that does not need boosts like these on Ladakh travails...your mind and body ofcourse, the cycle is just another means.



Keep it coming on! And keep inspiring people!

[ninjatalli]

*bump*

Been waiting for the resumption of this thread for quite some time; and I'm sure I am not alone on this. @adc request you to make some time from your busy schedule, and please share the rest of your trip details

[adc]

Originally Posted by ninjatalli

*bump*

Been waiting for the resumption of this thread for quite some time; and I'm sure I am not alone on this. @adc request you to make some time from your busy schedule, and please share the rest of your trip details

yes it has been a very big and embarrassing interruption, on a journey as of now, would finish up all the travelogues by october.

[ninjatalli]

Originally Posted by adc

yes it has been a very big and embarrassing interruption, on a journey as of now, would finish up all the travelogues by october.

Bump again!

It's January now! October's long gone! Please wake up this thread again!