[Jeroen]

After riding yesterday’s Elephant route, my bike got pretty dirty. I had not cleaned it for a while anyway. But yesterday a small section of the route went through a field. Technically a bicycle path, but it was just all mud. Very, very slippery. I even fell as the rear wheel span out from underneath me.

So the bicycle was in dire need of a good soak. I always enjoy doing this.

Used the same method as I described before. It takes me less than an hour and that includes putting all my tools, hoses, high pressure washer away too!

I measured my chain before cleaning: (still outside my garage)



And after cleaning the chain very thoroughly and applying new oil: (inside my garage now)



So it looks like there is some difference between a dirty and a clean chain. I was expecting this. Good to know. I have been measuring every 1000 km, but I will up that to every 500km now. Even so, this chain and sprocket has done very well indeed!



Love it when my bike is all nice and shiny. I’m still very pleased with it. I have had it just over 3,5 years. I have done about 16.000km on it and it still looks brand new. Not a scratch. (Touch wood)!!!

[Jeroen]

Just came across this little video. It shows part of a new bicycle road, a so called fast cycle route between two towns.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jY97ZqiH6Ug

This is very near to my office and I have quite a few colleagues who make use of it to commute back and forth to work.

Jeroen

[Jeroen]

We had an absolute gorgeous weekend. Temperatures around 8oC, very little wind and lots of sun shine. Perfect weather for a good cycle trip.

So on Saturday morning I set off a 08.00am. I had put together a very nice route that would take me all along the Bommelerwaard. Very attractive scenery, lots of pontjes (ferries) and endless dedicated bicycle paths, along the many dikes, orchards, meadows etc.



A couple of hours into my tour, I noticed that the steering was getting a bit stiff. Very strange? I tried to adjust it myself, but I did not have the correct size spanner with me. Luckily, I found a bicycle shop and they fixed it for me, just like that, no waiting, no charge.

However, he did not adjust the steering bar, exactly perpendicular to the frame. Only a fraction off, but that just drives me nut!

So I had a go at it myself this afternoon.





It’s perfect now. Also, my new special pedals are giving the odd squeak. So I took them off, cleaned them, and oiled the special clicking mechanism for my shoes.

Finally, I had noticed that the display on my little bicycle computer was getting a bit slow/dim. It has been a while since I put a new battery in. Especially at these low temperatures, the display starts (partially) failing when the battery is getting to each end of its life



Always write down the total distance, total time and the circumference of the wheel. Because when changing batteries these little cycle computer tend to lose all data. I calibrate my cycle computer against my GPS. Which is always a bit time consuming, so best just check before taking the old battery out.

All goog now and set to go again!

Jeroen

[ninjatalli]

This is a very informative thread - one that I missed reading till date. (homework!)

Originally Posted by Jeroen

I measured my chain before cleaning: (still outside my garage)

A bit of advice needed - is there a scenario of the chain requiring a change with just ~1600 kms of riding over 3+ months? Gave my cycle for servicing, and the technician pulled out the above tool to measure the chain - the result was pretty clear. But I'm now wondering if it is normal given the short timeline and riding distance. The bike was brand new (purchased recently only), and the riding has been mostly on a mix of flatish with low/medium elevation terrains at times.

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by ninjatalli

is there a scenario of the chain requiring a change with just ~1600 kms of riding over 3+ months?

That appears to me quite excessive wear. So unless you are really into continuous hardcore off roading, sand and mud all the time and did not clean your chain once, but there other variables as well, e.g. how hard do peddle?

A few practical suggestions: These little tools are just simple indicators and they need to measure a difference of only less than a few tenth of a millimeter. A good bicycle technician would not rely on just this tool.

I suggest you buy one yourself. Measure the chain when brand new and just installed and see what happens. Don’t be surprised if a brand new chain shows up half worn on this little tool. It is more to keep track of relative wear, than absolute perfect indication.

There are a few easy checks you can do yourself, or ask your bicycle technician to do whilst you’re watching.

Check the chain for play, have a look, you can use it on both front and rear gears.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CZz2gdMCp2A&t=11s

Many cyclist will replace the sprocket with the chain.

In the past I have replaced only the chain, with different results. I have now taken to replacing both the sprocket and the chain. I am only using high quality components, which are not cheap to say the least. And I have a very well established cleaning and lubing regime!

I average only around 5-6000 km a years, largely on very good tarmac and or paved roads. I rarely cycle in the rain either. It varies, obviously, but 4000 km on a chain/sprocket combination is about as much as I get.

As per the video, replace your chain early, safes you on replacing the sprocket most likely!

Jeroen

[Jeroen]

Saturday was going to be a reasonable day weatherise and Sunday was going to be rain and a lot of wind. So that settled it for me, Saturday cycling, Sunday fiddling with bicycles, cars and model engines!

Nice route through a part of our province Brabant where I have not been for a while. The “Drunense duinen.” (The Dunes of Drunen). We used to take our kids here a lot when they were still very small and we lived nearby this area.

In all 85 km, nice ride, three pontjes/ferries.



One problem though, my bicycle got very muddy and sandy. It’s that time of the year with farmer putting a lot of mud on the road. And of course, dunes tend to have a lot of uh, sand!

So when I got back home a quick check of my chain I could hear the sand in the chain and cogs all the way home.



Still ok, but soon I will need to replace it. Wonder if I should replace the cassette as well. Looks good, still.



Cleaned my bicycle in the usual way. I had noticed that the front fender was a bit out of allignement. You can see the support rod has come out of the fork a bit.



Sitting a bit wonky, pulling to one side:



The support is held in place by this little tap bolt on the inside of the fork



And though I have a huge collection of Allen keys I could not find a single one that fitted. Until I remembered I have this tiny set sitting at my desk upstairs. Had one that fitted!





Looking much better





Also tightened up my Brooks Leather saddle. You should do this only occasionally. Its easy to oversteps, once that is done, the saddle is done for. So I always make a note of the date and the mileage

Special little spanner, compliments of Brooks





Also, put this special Brooks Leather Maintenance on the inside of the saddle. never on the outside!



One more little job; My Garmin bicycle computer mount was not working properly. The device keeps turning away. You can’t really tighten it, it is held in place by these rubber bands across the mount.

I got a piece of inner tube repair material and made a little patch of it. That will provide some additional resistance



Also, it will ensure the device sits just a fraction higher, which will make it easier to fit to my bicycle. You have to hold the GPS at 90 degrees, push it into the mount and twist it straight. But due to the shape of my steering bar, that was a bit difficult. This helps quite a bit.







Always very happy when my bicycle looks all new and shiny again! Ready for the next ride!

[Jeroen]

In between various calls for work today, I managed to pop out to run a few errands. So I stopped by at one of my favourite bicycle shops.



I bought a new chain. Next time I am cleaning my bicycle I am going to replace it. Also, I got myself a much sturdier chain punch. When I installed my current chain, my old chain punch gave my troubles. And you only get one chance to get it right with these kind of chains, or you have to put a new pin in.

This one looks the business if anything!

Also, after talking to the sales guy I bought this new chain oil. It is specifically meant for the winter months with high resistance to sand and grit. We will see.

Jeroen

[Jeroen]

The fix for my little bicycle computer did not work at all. The computer kept sliding away still. So I popped over to our local bicycle shop and asked them for an old inner tube from their bin.

Cut it up in some narrow stripes, to fit the base of the cycle computer;





Fits much better now. Half decent weather this Sunday so I went on a nice tour. Almost 90km and I am happy to report the cycle computer stays firmly in place, no matter how much I keep touching it, or how hard the bicycle tries to shake it.

Job done at last!



Jeroen

[Jeroen]

HOUSTON, WE HAVE A PROBLEM.

In fact we have two problems!!

It’s winter here in the Netherlands. Which means lots of grey wet weather. We might get the occasional snow fall and some frost. So far it has been freezing only during the night. Last Saturday was an absolute gorgeous winter day. During the night it had been freezing, but by 10.00 am the temperature was around 0oC, blue skies, virtually no wind. So I set off for a nice long ride through a very pretty wintery/frosty landscape.



Half way I heard something going “ping” and I felt my saddle move a bit on the right side. I recognised it, has happened to me before. One of the springs broke.

I love my Brooks sadly. I have been riding on Brooks saddles since I was about 12 years. But the quality is not what it used to be. This springs seem to breaking more and more. So the quality of them is not what it used to be, or I am getting heavier, or I am cycling more than ever. Maybe all of the above.

Luckily this time the spring snapped very close to where it is attached to the saddle. So the saddle sags a bit, but not to much it becomes a problem to cycle. I still had some 45 km to go!!





Brooks was in the news recently. Due to the Brexit they could not delivery to the UK customers! Because for logistic reasons all finished goods get shipped to a distribution warehouse in Italy first apparently!

https://road.cc/content/news/brooks-...-brexit-279791

Anyway, whatever, but when I went on line to order new springs, every site I could think off was out of stock!! So I will have to make some calls tomorrow, see how I get hold of two new ones. You always replace these in pairs. I still have an old used set in stock, but I prefer to put two new ones on.

So that was problem one. Problem number two occurred to me as I was taking these images of the saddle and springs.

I thought I would oil my chain a bit more. Only to discover I have been using the wrong oil on my chain for the last few weeks. In my defense, an easy mistake as the correct oil and this so called cleaning/polishing oil come in identical flasks!



I have been oiling my chain more regularly these last few weeks. There is a lot of mud on the roads, from farmers and their tractors and a lot of roads, including bicycle paths are being gritted every evening.

What I usually do after a long ride, is to stop at a self car wash and give my bicycle a quick hose down. Next, at home I will oil the chain some more. As of the frosty evenings I have closed off our outdoor taps and drained them, so that is why I stick to the self car wash during the winter months.

I decided to flush my chain on the bicycle as good as I could. brought out my little chain cleaning device. Filled it with cleaning fluid.





Next I used rags and a lot of compressed air to dry clean them and then apply, the correct type, of lubricant!! I applied it very liberally. Before I take my cycle out next time, I will run a rag over the chain one more time to take the excess oil off.

Interestingly enough, I never noticed the chain being oiled with cleaning/polishing oil, rather than lubricating oil. Ran just as smooth!!

Jeroen

[Jeroen]

It took me a long time to find somebody that had the Brooks spring in stock. I tried dozens of places, all sold out. I finally found a place that had them in stock, but was charging almost double the going rate. Still ordered them, because I was told by several place they were not expecting new stock before mid February. Cant wait that long.

Bit of a shame. Because during all my searching I also discovered the springs are available in matt black rather then the current chrome. I think that would have looked nice too.

Anyway, springs arrived yesterday, one left, one right spring.



So I took my saddle off. I have replaced springs on my Brooks saddles before. Truth be told, I could not remember if I ever bothered with left/right springs in the past.



I took the old springs off and looked at them, looked at the new ones. And got very confused on what the correct way of installing them would be.

Not only is there left / right but the springs themselves appeared to have an up/down orientation as well. The eyelet through which the bolts go were noticeably larger on one side compared to the other. But I had not noticed how it was fitted when I took them off.

I tried to puzzle it back together.

Brought my other bicycle with Brooksaddle in as well:



But without taking it apart, difficult to see. But I also had a third Brooks saddle, in spare parts:



If anything the left / right is a problem on this one as you will notice, the springs are identical.

I googled for a solution, I looked on Youtube but could not find anything. So this morning I just phoned the Brooks Factory in the UK. A guy picked up and was very happy to talk to me and explain in detail how the springs are supposed to be installed. There is only a left and a right spring. The up / down orientation is not relevant. The difference in the eyelet on the springs is just part of the normal production process!

So with that information I went back into my garage and fitted the new ones:

A bit of a fiddly job, because you have to get the nuts inside the spring, find a way to compresse everything together and turn the nut as well. I used a size smaller nut with a nut on it. Worked a treat!





Again, very glad I have some many tools, because without one of these stubby wrenches it is near impossible to tighten the nuts.



All done, I had printed out an image of this type of Saddle, the Brooks B66, just so I got the left / right spring correctly installed:



All done. I am not sure when I will be riding my bicycle. We are expecting snow! And even though I consider myself a pretty hardcore cyclist I will not go out in snow. I am too old for that kind of crap!!

[Jeroen]

Yesterday was a beautiful day, so I decided to skip work in the afternoon and go for a nice long bicycle ride. Gorgeous sunny weather, I did about 90km.

On the way home I stopped at a DIY car wash. I gave my bicycle a very thorough hose down. I wanted it to be properly clean, in order for me to switch out the cassette and the chain. As I have shown before, normally I would hose it down in my yard. But due to the winter weather and freezing temperature my outside taps are still turned off. I don’t really want to turn them on till late March.

So this afternoon after work I got going:

Put my bicycle up on my fancy bicycle stand:



How badly worn was the chain?



Not good! I will say in my defence that with snow and grit on the road, changing to a new chain and cassette is useless. In all this chain and cassette lasted for well over 6000km!

This time I also decided to take off the front crank gears.



Got my rinsing thingy out and cleaned everything very thoroughly



Next the chain comes off, all the bits from the derailleur etc.



Using my special tools I took the cassette off





New one back on



Took my new chain out of the box and cleaned it with paraffin. There is a huge debate on the internet amongst DIY cyclist mechanics whether you can install a chain straight out of the box, or need to rinse/clean and re-lube.

I am going to apply my very special new lube, so I thought I would give it a bit of a rinse.



Cleaning all these dirty parts is quite a job. Once everything had soaked a bit, I use compressed air to dry and remove any final bits and pieces.

It was not until I started having a close look at the now very clean front gears, I realised they were actually badly worn. So I decided to take them off too.

In order to do so the crank needs to come apart. I had never done that on these Shimano Demore cranks yet. So I quick search on Youtube for a tutorial.

First order of business is to loosen the two bolts on the left crank and undo the large bolt that holds everything together. You really need a special tool for it. But I made to with a Torque bit, which got the job done too.



Next you just hammer out the shaft. Well, when I say hammer, you need to be careful, so I used my rubber mallet.





Here we are:



As you can see, badly worn!!



This set lasted me over 18000km, so I guess that is not bad at all. I did go through 3/4 chains and probably 3 cassettes.

The biggest challenge will be to find these parts tomorrow morning, Saturday.
We are still in lockdown, but if I can find a bicycle shop that has them in stock I can probably pick it up in the morning too. So I will start calling tomorrow morning 0900 straight away.

It is going to be a very nice weekend, 18-19oC, virtually no wind, so I want to be on the bicycle peddling, not working on it!

Jeroen

[Jeroen]

It was not easy finding these new parts. Not at all. I spend about 3 hours on the phone!! Everybody tells me this is an old crank set and it will be difficult or ordering times will be ridiculously long. But the Shimano consumer website still mentions my crank type and various others as compatible. My local bicycle shop in the next village suggest I come over with all the parts, so he could have a good look and see if he could help me.

We spend about 30 minutes comparing various replacement he had in stock, but to no avail. Finally I found another cyclist specialist shop who told me he could order them and have them Monday or Tuesday. So I went with him and told him to order two of each, so I have spare. I am not replacing the smallest size as it hardly gets used.

So I spend some time, cleaning and getting everything ready for later this week.



I also spend quite a bit of time on my special cycle shoes and cleats. I really like them. Most importantly, they seem to be doing my knees a lot of good. Not quite sure how it works, but they probably force your feet in a better position so your knees get less stress. Which on my knees is important!

But they squeak! I have tried different kind of oils, spray, vaseline etc. Then I decided to check the internet and Youtube if I was the only one suffering from squeaky cleats. It is some consolations, that amongst the most serious of bicycle forums on the internet this is one common theme. Never knew. What is less encouraging is that nobody seems to have found the silver bullet so to speak. So there are literally hundreds and hundreds of video’s of everybody oil, cleaning, lubricating, with all kinds of fluids, grease and God knows what.

I decided to at least start by taking the cleats off and cleaning everything properly





I have re-installed them. I sprayed teflon lub spray underneath the cleat and used grease for the bolts.



I have read several times, dry lub does a decent job for stopping squeaking between the shoe and the pedal. So I need to get some of that too.

Fingers crossed, this does the trick

Jeroen

[Jeroen]

Got a call from my friendly bicycle repairs specialist. The parts did not arrive. Whereas on Saturday when they ordered the parts the computer told them Shimano had these in stock, now the computer tells it could take up to four weeks!! Apparently, that is still a good lead-time currently for Shimano parts.

They were very apologetic and rummaged around in their own stock some more. They thought they might have some replacement blades, but were not quite sure. So I went over with my crankset and old blades to see if we could make a match.

Luckily, we managed to find one brand new blade, the outer blade, which was also the one worn the most. For the middle blade for now we decided to stick to the old one. They were confident it would not wear down my brand new chain immediately. So that would be good enough to get me back on the road.

I must admit, I find it not particularly good service of Koga/Shimano that on this high end bicycle, it is becoming impossible to get these parts anymore. This bicycle is only four years old. Anyway I ordered two of each, so I should be good for the next decade, unless I start cycling even more

Got a couple of other things as well:

Got some dry lube to use on my creaky cleats. Some special mounting paste. I have several ones I use on my cars, but on bicycles with many aluminium parts I wanted something appropriate. And two new little tools, you will see me using later on.



Working on bicycles is not particularly difficult, but you do need to know what you are doing and how things go back together. With these blades it is important to get the orientation and back/front correct. Get it wrong and the chain might not run properly or the derailleur might not work properly.

So lets have a look at how it all goes back together.

The main blades tend to have one of these little stumps! It needs to be mounted with that little stump towards the crank arm. The idea is that if ever your chain comes off, this little stump will prevent it from getting stuck between the crank arm and the blade! Very convenient little safety feature



Next comes the middle blade. It has two distinctly different sides. One is angled the other is not. The angle side goes towards the inside of the crank, it allows the chain to move smoothly onto the smallest blade.



You also need to pay attention to the orientation. Most blades will come with these little bumps inside. That needs to align with the crank arm



The smallest blade also has one of these bumps, so the orientation is easy, but the back to front needs careful checking.

The easiest way is to check the teeth of the smallest blade to the teeth of the medium blade. It will be very obvious if you have it back to front as the angle of the teeth would look very differently.



With all that figured out, time to start bolting all of the blades back on to the crankset

this is where one of my new little tools comes in handy. The bolts fit into bushing. The back of these are slotted. It can be difficult to get a screwdriver into them to stop them rotating when tightening the bolts. Especially when everything is mounted. This little device will be able to slide in between the blades.



Did I mention the fact that working on your bicycle is not that difficult. You just need to pay attention on how stuff comes apart, so you know how to put it back together again?? Well, I should listen to me own advise better.

Because before mounting the blades I took the pedals off. As you might recall I only installed these a few months ago. I wanted to re-install them using the correct mounting paste. So I did, a two minute job.

But when I was working on the blades I noticed something, somehow something looks odd here!!



Looking good!!



Here you can clearly see the blade correctly installed with the pin pointing towards the crank arm.



Next, putting it back on the bicycle. First clean the crank thoroughly and apply some grease to all the parts. I am using just ordinary (bicycle) roller bearing grease.



The crank arm with blades attached just slides through, just a little push and that’s it. Now to install the other crank arm. You see on top of the arm a tiny black slide. It is sticking out a few mm. It needs to be in this position for installing. In this position you can slide the crank arm across the crank axle. Next you push that little slide down. Its bottom will protrude through the hole you can see in the crank axle. This is a safety feature. If the crank arm ever comes loose, this little device will prevent it from falling of!



Next the bearing cap goes back on. This is where my other brand new little tool comes in



The torque of the bearing cap is 0,7-1,5Nm, which is just finger tight! You over tighten this, it just won’t run smoothly, starts to wear premature etc.



Last step is to tighten the two bolts clamping the crank arm on the crank axle. You need to tighten these carefully, alternating so it sets nice and evenly. Check that the gap is nice and parallel.



Done!!



Next job is to re-install the new chain. I had lubed it twice over the course of two days. Make sure you wipe all excess oil off. A properly oiled chain does not show any lub oil. The lub oil need to be inside the rollers, no need for oil on the outside of the chain.

Many bicycle chains need to installed in a particular orientation. If you have a quick link system, there is definitely only one way to install. When in doubt check for markings on the chain. I always look for text on the chain and keep that side on the outside.



Mine comes with these little pins. You need a chain punch to install these.



Some time ago I bought a new chain punch, a bit more sturdier than the ones I had been using. Comes with a nifty little device hidden inside:



I have always been using a piece of string to unload tension on the chain, but this works very well indeed!



Before inserting the pin, lubricate it. These type of pins, as shown above have a snap-off part. It helps to install the pin easily, but afterwards the guidance part will be sticking out and needs to be snapped off. My fancy new chain punch is specially equipped to help you do so.



Notice that I have inserted the pin from the inside and have driven it into the chain this way. So the snap off bit sits on the outside of the chain. Sometimes when snapping it off, it might lead a bit of a rough edges. It is best to have these on the outside, if on the inside it is likely to affect the running of the chain on the rear sprocket.



I ran into a bit of a problem with the chain guard. At the rear it has this protruding lug. It is used to fix it to the frame. When I tightened it, it just broke. So I had to take it off. Tried several of my super glues, soldering gun to melt it down a bit. It is just ok, but I have already ordered a new one.



I also had another look at the support for the right fender. It had become undone before.



The thread had become damaged. So I very carefully ran a couple of my M5 taps through and that did the trick! Good to go.



Finally, a bit of polishing, looks as good as new.



Still very happy with this bicycle. I have done 18000 km in just over four years, so I am getting good use of it.

I took it for a short test drive on our dike. Just to make sure the gearing works properly. I noticed that I do need new brake pads too, can’t adjust the handles any further, so I have ordered four new brake pads as well.

In all, pleased with the fact that my bicycle is road worthy again. I will have to replace one or two blades when the new ones arrive in a few weeks. I will most likely install the chain guard and new brake pads too then.

This weekend looks good weather wise, so I am hoping to clock some 100km on Saturday morning

Jeroen

[Jeroen]

I managed to take my bicycle out for a little test run on Friday afternoon.

About 45 km along our river de Linge. The gears took a little adjusting, but that was all. Well, that was all when it came to the stuff I had replaced.

I stopped for a coffee in Leerdam. When I walked my bicycle holding it with my hand I noticed the steering was a bit stiff. It had a ever so slight dead point. Luckily Leerdam has several bicycle repair shops, so I cycled over to the nearest one.

Very pleasant, they had a look at it right away. Looks like the lower ball bearing in the steering ball head is on its way out. They adjusted a bit. Remember I had this similar problem some months ago, also whilst out riding. So definitely time to get it replaced.

This was not just a bicycle repair shop they also sell bicycles and all kinds of gear. Very nice collection. I also found out they are an official Koga and Shimano service center. Which is good to know, because it makes getting the right parts a lot easier. These guys just scanned my frame number into the computer! The computer shows every part used on my bicycle, and mine is a partial custom made.

So they have ordered the bearing. On this bicycle it is an actual roller cage bearing. So cycling with a slightly loose bearing is not going to damage the frame or ball head in any way, which was a relief to me as I wanted to go for a nice long ride on Saturday.

Which I did, almost 90 km, two little cyclist/pediastrian ferries, stopped twice for hot chocolate milk. It was a very sunny day, hardly any wind, but still only 5oC!





When I came home there was a parcel for me waiting; the parts I ordered two days ago.



I have made an appointment to get the bearing replaced. It is not a hugely difficult job, but I know from experience that with the steering bars out, the brake, gearing cable and the light wiring, it can be a bit fiddly to do so on your own. So I am going to let them do it.

Jeroen

[Jeroen]

As our grand daughter Bella will be 11 months old soon, she is getting old enough to sit in a bicycle seat. So I went and got one.

These days these bicycle seat are marvels of engineering. Comes with all kinds of safety features, straps etc. None of that in my days. Then it was basically a simply little cushion with a round circular bar to keep the baby/toddler sort of in the middle of the seat.

My wife insisted I also got the wind screen. I thought I would get her a pair of goggles, but a wind screen it is. The whole thing can be taken off in under 30 seconds.




A couple of days ago I was out for a nice long ride on my bicycle. I was about 45 km north of where we live, passing a little marina. There are marina’s all over the Netherlands obviously. I often stop, have a look, get a coffee or so, if they have a little cafe.

On this particular Marina something had gone wrong. No idea where I could share this on the forum, so I am putting it up here as it is part of a cycling tour.

Many marina’s will have slipways to launch and recover boats. This one had a nice slipway and a very sturdy powerful rig to haul boats out of the water. But something had gone wrong:

OOOOPS:



Somehow the boat started slipping of the rig whilst it was being pulled on the shore. Remarkable as this boat has a pretty level and straight bottom to start with. I spoke to the owner of the Marina. He told me they had been using this rig for 16 years and never an accident.



So they had to bring in this massive hydraulic crane to help and rescue.





They managed to reflect it. Looks like the hull was not breached. Quite a bit of damage though.



This particular yacht was to be rented out. They had taken the family whom had rented it, out for a little demo run earlier that morning. They managed to get the propellor fouled up, so it had to come out. Luckily for them, they had a number of these boats, so they were just given another one, so their holiday could start uninterrupted.

Jeroen