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6th July 2023, 05:29 | #31 |
Senior - BHPian Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Seattle/Pune
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| Re: Project Chinondale | Building a Carbon-Fiber Bike from scratch 6 months are up and bike has clocked slightly over 2500 kms. This being my first build it holds a special place and as lot of other bikes came and went in this period, this one stayed and I don't see parting ways with it any time soon. ---------------------------------- No major issues to note except the C ring that compresses headset into place was replaced with a new design. The old C ring caused a slight play in the handlebar when rocking the bike back and forth. I did mitigate it with thin shims inserted between headset spacers but wasn't too happy with the "jugaad". To my luck, the company who made the frame knew of this problem and improved the design of the C ring. They sent the new C ring to whoever was having the problem (for free). So I am happy to report there is some level of support for Chinese frames and you aren't entirely on your own to fix issues if anyone is venturing onto this route. My other worry was pressfit bottom bracket developing creaks under heavy load. Fortunately that didn't happen either. ***touches wood*** ---------------------------------- Parts changed/swapped - 1. Brake pads changed from semi-metallic to resin. 2. Brake rotors changed from ZRACE to Shimano RT30. The ZRACE rotors while cheap never stopped howling. In the wet they made even louder sound. In my experience even the cheapest of Shimano rotors are better than any Chinese rotor. 3. Top tube bag - I hacked an existing bag that attaches to top tube with straps into a direct mount bag. It wasn't a tough job. I simply removed the straps and drilled holes into the bottom part of the bag to match screws on top tube of the bag. 4. Removed under seat bag. Much cleaner look and doesn't get dirty from the mud either. The freed up space meant I could install Garmin Varia radar on it. 5. Switched from road style clipless pedals to MTB style Crankbrothers Candy. I should have done this way earlier. ---------------------------------- Maintenance- 1. Regular cleaning, nothing crazy. I pretty much just use a small handhold garden sprayer and wipe off the frame. I use diluted dishwashing liquid. For chain and cassette and I use 409 degreaser, brush, dishwashing liquid and then wipe it off with a cloth. 2. For lubricant I switched from T9 Boeshield to Rock 'n Roll gold. Less messy, easy to clean and better on dusty trails. 3. Fake Shimano chain and Chinese 11-34 ultralight one piece cassette both are surprisingly holding strong. From what I am seeing, the cassette is good to go for another 5-7k kms. The chain might go off soon. 4. I noticed the loss off air every 3-4 rides so refilled tubeless sealant once. No punctures yet on Panaracer Gravelking SS tires and I am pleasantly surprised how well they roll on smooth tarmac. I am almost as fast as my aero road bike (25c tires) on this gravel bike with 32c tires. 5. Front derailleur adjustment a few times. Not sure why but I have to keep adjusting limit screws on the FD almost every month. 6. Greased the hubs. I noticed the water makes it way into the hub and then bearings start making a rough sounds. The bearings are not serviceable so I am keeping my fingers crossed. If the hubs go kaput, I will go with DT-Swiss hub'd wheels for their simplicity. 7. Got the wheels trued. The rear wheel was slightly off center. No issues with the front. ---------------------------------- All in all, build has proven solid and I would be down for another Chinese frame in near future. Latest picture of the bike below as it stands today. That's it for now. Keep riding bois. ---------------------------------- |
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The following 4 BHPians Thank amol4184 for this useful post: | 14000rpm, KK_HakunaMatata, sukiwa, vb-saan |
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3rd December 2023, 23:32 | #32 |
Senior - BHPian Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Seattle/Pune
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| Re: Project Chinondale | Building a Carbon-Fiber Bike from scratch Bike completes 1 year! Sits at 5k kms and is going stronger than ever. To mark the occasion I did some upgrades. ---------------------------------- The semi-hydraulic cable pull brakes were first to go. That meant also replacing the shifters AND doing the whole internal cable routing again. That cable routing has me on the boil so I have been avoiding this upgrade even though I got all the necessary parts a few months ago. Anyhoo, one fine day I decided to bite that bullet but before that I ordered a routing tool from Amazon. My hopes were to not go through hours of pain and to that effect it works. Instead of 3-4 hours it took an hour - still not optimal but manageable. ----------------------------------- Parts swapped:1. Onirii semi-hydro calipers -> Ultegra R8020 full hydraulic calipers. 2. Ultegra R6800 rim brake shifters -> Ultegra R8020 hydraulic shifters. 3. Rim brake 5mm housing -> Shimano BH90 hoses. 4. No name shifter cables -> Jagwire shifter cable kit 5. FSA chainrings -> Pass Quest aero chainrings After the upgrade, braking performance isn't vastly better than mechanical disc brakes as some people claim. In my opinion the biggest change is in how they feel when you brake. The slight vibration from cables is gone and initial bite is stronger. Apart from that, there is not much benefit to going full hydraulic when you consider the cost and efforts involved. And don't forget potentially messy bleeding jobs and specific tools required to set these things up. Other notes: 1. The Panaracer GK SS are still holding well and I am yet to have a flat. The rear is balding but front is in good shape. I am planning to switch front tire to back in about 2k kms more and entirely replace front with a new one. The 32c tires seem to do the trick for me. 2. The hydraulic shifters are humongous. They feel good in hand but not necessarily better or worse than smaller rim brake shifters. 3. The rear wheel started sounding gruff. I did some research on how to change the bearings and replaced the bearings on it. Its like new and new bearings are incredibly silent. So silent that my kittens don't mind it. I used a bearing press tool for this job. 4. The chainrings had worn out. I could sense increased noise while on the big chainring. Instead of replacing them with FSA, I got a Chinese chainset by a company called Pass Quest. These seem well made but not any cheaper than FSA. The crankarms have lost their color from shoe rub but I am holding out from changing them. I love how stiff this crankset feels. That's it for now. I think the bike is finally complete and unless something breaks, it will probably stay like this. |
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The following 4 BHPians Thank amol4184 for this useful post: | 14000rpm, dailydriver, graaja, ostrish |
4th December 2023, 07:40 | #33 |
BHPian Join Date: Sep 2023 Location: Bangalore
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| Re: Project Chinondale | Building a Carbon-Fiber Bike from scratch Very cool build. The Panaracers are great tyres, I run the 32c SK (small knobs? semi knobs?) instead of the SS (certainly semi slicks). I love how soft they feel on tarmac, probably because they are 120 tpi and 32c. Pass Quest is great – I have have a PQ 35mm stem on my enduro hardtail. It is quite beefy and takes abuse. Agree it's not cheaper but definitely more VFM. I find hydraulic brake brifters to be significantly more comfier than cable actuated ones. Have them on my spouse's Kona JtS. Unfortunately my Surly Straggler has cable ones. Find the bigger brifters give way more control while riding trails and makes it easier to pull the front up. Been on hydraulic discs for more than a decade now and no way would I go back to cables. Yes on the road the difference is small but on dirt it is a massive difference. |
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4th December 2023, 22:29 | #34 | |
Senior - BHPian Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Seattle/Pune
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| Re: Project Chinondale | Building a Carbon-Fiber Bike from scratch Quote:
The hydros are definitely nicer feeling though I feel good hydro-mech calipers like JuinTech GT or TRP HY/RD are very close to full hydros. These Onirii ones were as good as JuinTechs at 1/3rd the price however those are also creeping up in price. My biggest complain about full hydros is how little they offer in ways of gap adjustment or fixing something quickly. I had the first generation GRX calipers on a build and boy those were some of the hardest calipers to adjust. I hear Shimano listened to complaints and newer (post 2021 I think) calipers have larger gap between pads once fully bled. On the other hand XT/Deore post mount MTB calipers are easier to setup. Easier than Ultegra flat mounts anyway. It took quite a while to fully get all the air out of the system. With that said full hydros are not a deal breaker to me. If a bike that I really like comes with full hydro I would jump on it. | |
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21st December 2023, 07:36 | #35 |
Senior - BHPian Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Seattle/Pune
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| Re: Project Chinondale | Building a Carbon-Fiber Bike from scratch L-Twoo GR7 1x10 Gravel groupset review |
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27th December 2023, 23:18 | #36 |
BHPian Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Secunderabad
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| Re: Project Chinondale | Building a Carbon-Fiber Bike from scratch Great post! Just noticed this post. Thanks for sharing. I’ve had to rebuild my gravel bike this month and I ended up replacing pretty much everything except for the frame :-) Only wish I’d seen this post before and I could’ve incorporated some of the learnings! Built out a 1x mullet with SRAM AXS Eagle and Force AXS shifters. Had a lot of trouble getting the tire inflated. Had one tire explode on me too while I was trying to seat it. Guess I learnt it the hard way that I need an air compressor to get this fixed, lol. It is not fun to get sealant all over you when the tire explodes. |
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27th December 2023, 23:52 | #37 | |
Senior - BHPian Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Seattle/Pune
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| Re: Project Chinondale | Building a Carbon-Fiber Bike from scratch Quote:
SRAM AXS systems are great! definitely way less work than Shimano Di2. I had a tire burst after seating it. Thankfully it exploded towards a glass door right next to bike and sealant was all over it, had it exploded from other side I was doomed - the other side was thick carpet I don't have compressor so what I do is use inner tube for first time setup. Get the tire seated with tube in it and then deflate, unseat just one side of the tire, put some sealant it, start inflating with regular foot pump. With little trial and error the sealant eventually gets into the bead and seals the bead. Then fill up rest of the sealant. Some tires are just harder to seat than others so this method may not work. Conti GP5000 STR are extremely hard to fit, Panaracer GKs are easier IMO. | |
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28th December 2023, 00:24 | #38 | |
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| Re: Project Chinondale | Building a Carbon-Fiber Bike from scratch Quote:
I really like the SRAM stuff except for the fact that their hydraulic systems use a DOT fluid which is kind of a pain to deal with. Shimano uses regular mineral oil which is easier to handle. | |
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28th December 2023, 07:48 | #39 |
Senior - BHPian Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Seattle/Pune
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| Re: Project Chinondale | Building a Carbon-Fiber Bike from scratch
Use of mineral oil is big plus in my books. You spill mineral oil on the frame or elsewhere and nothing will happen, but with DOT you have to be extremely careful. It will corrode thru pretty much anything. SRAM did launch a mineral oil brakeset last year for MTBs but I don't think that tech ever made it to road style groupsets. |
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