Hi Everyone, I'm back!
I had recently purchased a Skoda Laura L&K after selling my Fortuner.
The car is simply a 'james bond' car but I still wanted to have my amps and speakers installed to enjoy to its fullest. Moreover, selling the amps and speakers would have to be at some throw away price which I didnt want - after all, its my hard earned money.
All ICE modifications were done at Autofusion, by Thouqeer!
We did the ICE modifications in three stages:
Step 1:
Identify the stock ICE components and the way its installed.
The HU is the radio bolero. The HU connects to a 10-channel amplifier located under the front passgenger seat. The HU is merely used as a transport while its the amplifier that does all the amplification, sound processing, volume/B&T controls etc. The amplifier outputs the signal in discrete channels for the woofer, mid-range and tweeters for the front and rear doors.
The stock HU and amplifier are very good in terms of build and audio quality. You only need to upgrade the speakers for a good quality sound.
The rear side of the HU only fed to the amplifier. There are two aux-out ports but they are of fixed outputs and the signal does not vary with the volume control.
We also found out the best place to install the amps and sub is the boot as there is less inteference picked up and ofcoure, least tampering with anything stock!
Step 2:
How do we install my amps, speakers & sub? This is indeed a very big question, as I wanted zero stock tampering! I never compromised on this part.
The installation of the Focal speakers (woofer & tweeter) was straightforward just as in any other car, we removed the stock woofer, tweeter & midrange and installed my components. The question was on how to supply the signal to the amps! The stock HU did not have any line-outs which varied with the volume control of the HU; the amp output was in three parts, woofer, mid-range & tweeter!
I never give up so I started my research along with Thouqeer and Venkatesh (chottu, as he's called). Thouqeer suggested I install a separate single din HU just after the DSG stick, which would offer the signals to the amps just like in any other setup. This was very acceptable. I came home for some more research and to be sure no stock components are tampered, just when I realized I would loose my steering controls, moreover I would not be able to use the stock HU, which I did want as it displays all the track information, can be controlled from the steering etc.
What next? I left the search task to Google which pointed to me to the JL-audio cleansweep devices. What is the Cleansweep device? The JL-audio cleansweep devices are used for OEM integration between HU and amplifiers. There are two types of devices in this category, the cleansweep signal summing interface and the cleansweep DSP.
Both these devices are required for my installation. The cleansweep signal summing interface (SSI) accepts signals at line-level or speaker-level in the form of 2/3 way, sums up these independent signals/channels to a single signal/channel. The device has 3-pairs of inputs. I fed the woofer, mid-range and tweeter signals to these device. Without cutting any stock wires, I extended the stock woofer, mid-range and tweeter speaker wires from the front left and right doors for the inputs to the SSI. The SSI provides a simple L & R outputs. This signal is fed to the cleansweep DSP which has a 32-bit sharc dsp with 30 band per channel equalizer that adjusts the signal to provide a flat response outpout which may be fed to the amplifiers (which I'm installing).
You may ofcourse use the HU tone controls as you like, after the installation.
The cleansweep devices comes with an installation CD which should be used to calibrate the device. All the power leads were drawn directly from the battery terminal.
After all the connections were done, we made sure we could hear the music through the appropriate speakers. Next was the tuning / calibration step.
The DSP comes with its own volume control which has to be set to minimum while the HU volume is set at a level we normally listen to (the manual mentions 50-75% of the maximum - I found setting leads to incorrect calibration). The SSI has three sets of pot-screws which is rotated until the corresponding LED turns "green". Once this is achieved, we wait for about 30 seconds just to be sure the SSI calibration is done correctly and the LEDs to not turn "amber or red". The next step is the DSP calibration. This step is pretty simply - take a paper clip and press the "calibrate" button and wait for about 30 seconds, during which you'll see the LEDs flashing in several colors/fashion.
Onces the DSP LEDs turn steady "Green" the calibration is successful and time to enjoy your music!
The DSP volume control is increased from minimum till a level is achieved with least noise. You may ofcourse tune your amp settings for your liking.
Phew! Music atlast!
Now for some pics!
