Team-BHP
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https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Epic
(Post 1445642)
Hi Abhinav,
Yes the car is a Swift. Rears to help fill the entire soundstage. |
I would rather recommend you not to fill in the entire sound stage if no one sits in the back and bi-amp the carbons.
I think you should talk to b&t about this and hear his views.
Pardon my ignorance, but what do you mean by bi - amping?speakers to be powered via 2 amps?If yes, wont they damage them?
Thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by greenh0rn
(Post 1445956)
Tush, about your enclosure query- its design, as long as it is a sealed enclosure, is a simple matter of getting the internal volume right. There is no rocket science involves as such and in fact many guys like to build their enclosures themselves (a simple nice DIY job). Even you could do that, if you have access to tools and time. Else, your dealer will be happy to get one made for you. Remember, it's just the volume of the enclosure that matters, so all you need is a carpenter- even someone who isn't terrific at his job! |
Thanks for throwing some inputs on it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by abhinav.gupta88
(Post 1445942)
You can go in for the Infinity Reference 475a.
Preety good amp, good alternate to the 1004.
Available for around 12k i suppose. |
Yep I have that in mind. Hence before putting down the money I am taking help from Team Bhpians, as its said and I do believe in "Well begun is half done".
I read in a thread that there are even amps significantly cheaper then 14000/-(in my case i was looking for JBL 1004) and give better or equal performance.
Is that true? If that is the case which are those amps?
Bi-amping is like 2 channel for the Midbasses and 2 channels for the tweeters crossed by the crossover.
It can be through 1 4 channel amp, 2 2 channel amps.
Some speakers do have cross overs which have bi-amp settings.
So they cannot get damaged ( if given the power they can handle)
Explained with pics.
In the 1st image you can see there is IN -, IN + which is the input ( Amp to crossover) , WF- , WF + which is woofer output ( crossover to mid bass) and TW- , TW+ which is for tweeter output ( cross over to tweeter)
This is a speaker set which does not get bi-amping features.
In the 2nd image , you can see TWIN + , TWIN - which is tweeter input , MIDIN + , MIDIN - which is midwoofer input and MID + , MID - , TW + and TW- which are outputs for mid bass and tweeters.
In this you can clearly notice that tweeter takes in a seperate input and the mid bass takes in a seperate input.
Thus the Tweeter input would take 1 channel and the mid bass input will take another channel.
and as there are 2 channels ( left and right), a total of 4 channels ( 4 or 2+2) is required for bi-amping.
This speaker has a feature of bi-amping and is usually better than a normal setting.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tush
(Post 1446025)
Thanks for throwing some inputs on it.
Yep I have that in mind. Hence before putting down the money I am taking help from Team Bhpians, as its said and I do believe in "Well begun is half done".
I read in a thread that there are even amps significantly cheaper then 14000/-(in my case i was looking for JBL 1004) and give better or equal performance.
Is that true? If that is the case which are those amps? |
I think there arent too many amps in the sub 14k range which are as good performance wise as the JBL 1004.
Maybe the Ground Zero has one , infinity 475a can be had. or maybe some in the DLS etc range. ( not sure)
Hello GURU,
This is Tushar from Bangalore,
Guys I need your help, I am expecting to deliver my swift VDI before September 2nd week hence looking for good ICE configuration,
ICE (Budget 30k)
1. HU – Pioneer AVH 5100 (Touch Screen MOSFET 50W x 4) (Bought it
from US 400$)
2. Front – Looking for Components Speaker
3. Rear - Looking for Coaxial 3/4-Way Speaker
4. Damping (for now front only)
5. Amplifiers (For front speaker and subwoofer)
6. Subwoofers
please:
Thanks,
Is the 30000 without the HU or with the HU.
If its with the HU.
Then 14k won't fetch you compoos, coax, Amps and sub.
If its for 30k
Here's a small suggestion from my side.
Keep 5k for wiring + damping.
Front compos - 6-7k ( Illusion , JBL etc)
Rear Coax - 4k ( JBL / Pioneer etc)
Sub - JBL 1215 or similar - 4-5k.
Amplifier - JBL 1004 - 9k ( grey)
You can use 2 channels for the fronts and 2 channel for the sub.
It would sound pretty decent IMO.
Quote:
Originally Posted by abhinav.gupta88
(Post 1449599)
Is the 30000 without the HU or with the HU.
If its with the HU.
Then 14k won't fetch you compoos, coax, Amps and sub.
If its for 30k
Here's a small suggestion from my side.
Keep 5k for wiring + damping.
Front compos - 6-7k ( Illusion , JBL etc)
Rear Coax - 4k ( JBL / Pioneer etc)
Sub - JBL 1215 or similar - 4-5k.
Amplifier - JBL 1004 - 9k ( grey)
You can use 2 channels for the fronts and 2 channel for the sub.
It would sound pretty decent IMO. |
Thanks for replying Abhi,
This is what I have shortlisted
Front compos - TS-D1720C 17CM PACKAGED COMPONENT SPEAKER SYSTEM
Rear Coax - 4k TS-A643 - 16 cm 4-Way Speaker
Sub - JBL 1215 or similar - 4-5k. (Not decided as I am concern about space)
Amplifier - JBL 1004 - 9k (grey) (Not decided)
Thanks,
Forgot to mention you yes i have 30k budget without HU (HU i bought is Pio AVH 5100)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tushargohil
(Post 1449635)
This is what I have shortlisted
Front compos - TS-D1720C 17CM PACKAGED COMPONENT SPEAKER SYSTEM
Rear Coax - 4k TS-A643 - 16 cm 4-Way Speaker
Sub - JBL 1215 or similar - 4-5k. (Not decided as I am concern about space) |
Have you listened to these speakers, in your own car preferably? Listened to any other speakers from a competing brand? Auditioning different speakers is highly recommended before you buy stuff- helps avoid disappointment/frustration/heartburn in the future.
I have heard the pioneer components and they are not too good.
I'll suggest you the JBL combo instead.
JBL 608c , JBL 938.
Good VFM stuff.
Quote:
Originally Posted by greenh0rn
(Post 1449849)
Have you listened to these speakers, in your own car preferably? Listened to any other speakers from a competing brand? Auditioning different speakers is highly recommended before you buy stuff- helps avoid disappointment/frustration/heartburn in the future. |
Point is taken, to honest with you I have never use component speaker before all I use was coaxial 2 ways so all to gather this would be new experience :thumbs up
Quote:
Originally Posted by abhinav.gupta88
(Post 1449907)
I have heard the pioneer components and they are not too good.
I'll suggest you the JBL combo instead.
JBL 608c , JBL 938.
Good VFM stuff. |
Abhi,
One quick question i am going for PIO
AVH-P5100DVD Do I need to consider any special speaker for that for good combination of HU & Speakers? stupid:
It isn't such.
All depends on your taste and preference.
Choose the speakers which you feel sound the best to you.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tush
(Post 1446025)
Thanks for throwing some inputs on it.
Yep I have that in mind. Hence before putting down the money I am taking help from Team Bhpians, as its said and I do believe in "Well begun is half done".
I read in a thread that there are even amps significantly cheaper then 14000/-(in my case i was looking for JBL 1004) and give better or equal performance.
Is that true? If that is the case which are those amps? |
Okay guys been to another ICE shop today.
Was very keen on explaining me that I should go for Focal components.
Well it were 12k so were out of my budget. So he said he doesnt recommend anything below JBL Power series let aside Illusion EL 6.1 that I have been thinking off.
Another thing that he was pushing was for Focal Solid 4 which is a 4 channel amp. He says its much better then JBL 1004.
For Subwoofer I asked him for GZ 30T. He said dont go for it as it has no enclosure and getting an exact matching density enclosure for this is a kir kir.
Based on my requirement of tight and deep bass he says dont go for 12" go for 10" as it will give you deep and tight bass and not boom boom.
For this he recommends MTX Thunder Subwoofer 10".
He said he doesnt recommend damping on my setup since as per him I am not going for any high end stuff which is very powerfull to cause any vibs in the door.
How much truth lies in this persons talk ?
Seems things are forcing me to up my budget:Shockked:
A swift without damping is bad even for a 10" sub getting around 200w.
Let alone giving it more power.
As for the enclosure.
Ask bass&trouble.
He would be happy to get one made according to specs and send it across.
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