[wannabelean]

The compos are 100 rms @ 4 ohms...what kind of an amp should I be looking at?

Thanks

[jkdas]

which compos are those. Can you get the one KB got?

[wannabelean]

which one is that? the polk momos is what I'm thinking of getting. Had JBL on my mind but when I have people coming down from the US I changed my mind.

[viper]

Originally Posted by wannabelean

The compos are 100 rms @ 4 ohms...what kind of an amp should I be looking at?

Thanks

Hi,

Am assuming that the max power is 100 WRMS. If it is a high end speaker set I would recommend a minimum amplification of 50-75 WRMS for the same. IF you like blaring your music then you can go higher up depending on your budget.

Viper

[speedzak]

Any decent 4 channel amp with 75W RMS per channel will be fine I suppose.


Why 4 channel? You can bridge 2channels if you're not happy with 75W. And in the process, you can burn some coils too.

[low_bass_makker]

I would add some thing here first which model no are those polk momo`s

then according to the model we can decide which amp will be best suited for the job

also add some info what type of music do u listen to and what is ur budget.....

I think no one could suggest an amp only by the RMS value of a speaker......

[Bass&Trouble]

Originally Posted by wannabelean

The compos are 100 rms @ 4 ohms...what kind of an amp should I be looking at?

Thanks

Genuine 100 rms? Is it a 2-way/3-way?

Most 6" comps can handle 100 W rms only if they are not fed sub-bass.

The amplifier choice will not depend on the speaker's power handling alone. In fact, the choice of the front speaker based on power handling itself would be incorrect unless the rest of the setup matches up. What else do you plan in the car? What rear speakers, what sub? Based on all these factors, it will be easier to choose the amp for the fronts, so that the end result is a balanced sound.

[jkdas]

which car? 100W nominal? and the HU is? YOu would need lot of damping to I guess. @75W x4; look at Pio 944 or JBL GTO75.4. Pio 944 can deliver 250W x 2 in bridged mode

(OT! thsi is what Karthik's Audiobahn 6x9 are being fed now!, would it hurt the Audiobahns? 250W X2)

[929RON]

Yeah there can be 100 RMS component Speakers, Audiobahn comes with a component speaker model ABC60003N which is a 3 Way 320 RMS component.

Ideally if you have a 100 RMS component Speaker....... (which you dont actually need, cos our car cabins are so small that due to so many reflections any above 100 RMS on components on the front door may not sound that crisp and will become too loud, if tuned to the max potential)
......you need a 150 RMS amp, I will tell you why, any amp will perform very well in terms of clarity in about 40 to 50 % Gain, so take the juice up to about 40 % and tune the HPF, and you can have much better sounding system than an amp which is 75 RMS powering the 100 RMS speakers.
Just see to that someone who knows his work tunes the speakers and does not throw in too much power into the speakers, which can blow and before blowing will scream a lot too.

[rsjaurr]

If money is not problem for u,do consider JL audio's slash series or at least 'E' series.

[929RON]

Originally Posted by rsjaurr

If money is not problem for u,do consider JL audio's slash series or at least 'E' series.

YEPP !! JL ROCKS !!!

I personally feel they sound better than Focal K2 Power Series components.

[rsjaurr]

Originally Posted by 929RON

......you need a 150 RMS amp, I will tell you why, any amp will perform very well in terms of clarity in about 40 to 50 % Gain, so take the juice up to about 40 % and tune the HPF, and you can have much better sounding system than an amp which is 75 RMS powering the 100 RMS speakers.

Is it so????
So u mean if amplifier is rated to produce 150wrms @4ohms,it will produce just half of the rated 150 a in given set-up at 50% gain???

So to extract full juice of amp,do we need to keep the gain at full??

Our experts will know better but i would think otherwise.

[Bass&Trouble]

Originally Posted by 929RON

Yeah there can be 100 RMS component Speakers, Audiobahn comes with a component speaker model ABC60003N which is a 3 Way 320 RMS component.

Ideally if you have a 100 RMS component Speaker....... (which you dont actually need, cos our car cabins are so small that due to so many reflections any above 100 RMS on components on the front door may not sound that crisp and will become too loud, if tuned to the max potential)
......you need a 150 RMS amp, I will tell you why, any amp will perform very well in terms of clarity in about 40 to 50 % Gain, so take the juice up to about 40 % and tune the HPF, and you can have much better sounding system than an amp which is 75 RMS powering the 100 RMS speakers.
Just see to that someone who knows his work tunes the speakers and does not throw in too much power into the speakers, which can blow and before blowing will scream a lot too.

That Audiobahn rating is for the whole set, not each individual speaker, or one side. So it means that one each of the 6" woofer + the 4" midrange + the 1" tweeter can together handle 160W rms, bot 320 as you seem to be believing.

I disagree that a speaker's power handling and the reflections in the car have much to do with each other. Even if the speaker is low powered and your car's acoustics are a nightmare, it stil is a bad seat to be in.

I don't agree on that bit about use a 150 W amp and keep the gains half. Gains should always match up with your head unit, and if you are keeping it any higher/ lower than that, you are making up for some other deficiencies in the system. It would all depend on what the amp's performance characteristics are like, and by that I mean, what kind of peak power the amp can deliver. So a 100 W rms should suit it just fine if the amp can put out the extra power momentarily when there is a surge in the signal. That also sorts out the problem of 'throwing in too much power', and you're safe unless you run the amp into clipping which I assume one can safely hear.

[wannabelean]

Link to the amp - MMC6500 - http://www.polkaudio.com/caraudio/specs/mmc6500/

Head unit will be the Alpine 9857

The Sub will be a JBL one. I'm not sure if I should get the tube or bandpass one. I'll think about that later.

A stinger amp wiring kit.

The music I listen to usually is pop. 80s music is da best!

[929RON]

Originally Posted by rsjaurr

Is it so????
So u mean if amplifier is rated to produce 150wrms @4ohms,it will produce just half of the rated 150 a in given set-up at 50% gain???

So to extract full juice of amp,do we need to keep the gain at full??

Our experts will know better but i would think otherwise.

Gain is not a Volume control, and most people who have been on this forum for some time will know that, I am suggesting this out of personal Experience, Different Amps differ in their power delivery etc,
Some of the powerful amps sound the best when only about 50 % of the potential is used, the SQ is optimum without even a hint of Degrade. This not every common person can understand, only Tuner's ears can differentiate,
This is what I compared, (well I don't say I have the best ears)
I had powered a pair of RF T312D4 1000 RMS subs with a Single T30001bd Amp, now , under any ciscumstance this amp produces way above 3000 RMS, Keeping the gain at about 40 % and tuning the Freq, gave very very crisp sound Quality and good amount of bass,
The same car had 1 RF T8004 4 Channel Amp powering 3 sets of RF T162s Components, the amp churns out anywhere above 800 RMS in total, so why did'nt the speakers Blow, cos the max power rating in total was just 300 RMS , because they were tuned optimum, barely 25 % of the gain was used, but it sounded marvellous, the effect was not the same when the speakers were hooked up with a P4004 4 channel amp.
Try it out, it works.

What B&T said " It would all depend on what the amp's performance characteristics are like " is absoultely correct.
Amps differ, what method I suggested may not work good for all amps, the level of gain will be different for different combinations of amps and speakers / subs.
Cheers