Fiberfill for Sub enclosure

madbullram · 31st October 2006, 20:36

OKay, now dont throw brickbat at me. I was reasding on the various fills for Sub enclosure and somethign stuck me.

Reliance has Recron fiberfill pillows. Now can this be stuffed inside the Sub enclosure as sound absorbing material to get the punch right?

Am I

or

?
http://www.ril.com/html/business/py_ff_know.html

I am thinking of this for my Ported sub enclosure which has Pion TS-W306C powered by Pion 7200 mono amp.

Cheers!
Ram

low_bass_makker · 31st October 2006, 22:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by madbullram

OKay, now dont throw brickbat at me. I was reasding on the various fills for Sub enclosure and somethign stuck me.

Reliance has Recron fiberfill pillows. Now can this be stuffed inside the Sub enclosure as sound absorbing material to get the punch right?

Am I

or

?
http://www.ril.com/html/business/py_ff_know.html

I am thinking of this for my Ported sub enclosure which has Pion TS-W306C powered by Pion 7200 mono amp.

Cheers!
Ram

i wont not recommend it in a ported box as it will come out of the port as the air is displaced by the sub for this purpose use felt or foam with is not lose made like the above stuff.....also the fibre fill is very light in property which is not good for the damping of sound. for damping heavy stuff is used as it can absorb sound.....

the above fibre fill can be used if it is used by make pads with net covering them which will not allow the fibre to get lose....

Mugen_Power · 31st October 2006, 23:03

Quote:

Originally Posted by low_bass_makker

also the fibre fill is very light in property which is not good for the damping of sound. for damping heavy stuff is used as it can absorb sound.....

LBM,

Which heavy stuff ?
Shed some light because i have made another sub box for innova and want to fill with some damping to get tight bass.

Mugen.

rsjaurr · 1st November 2006, 10:30

Mugen,u can use wurth,fonomat,dynamat regular or dynamat extreme.Later is the most expensive but most effective too.I used it to damp door panels of my car and installation is also very easy.

Sam Kapasi · 1st November 2006, 12:01

Doc, he is talking about sound damping inside his wooden box. There is no need to use dynamat extreme inside his wooden box.

low_bass_makker · 1st November 2006, 13:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by rsjaurr

Mugen,u can use wurth,fonomat,dynamat regular or dynamat extreme.Later is the most expensive but most effective too.I used it to damp door panels of my car and installation is also very easy.

doc pahji these above stuffs are used in places where we have to increase the weight of the wall on which the speaker is installed. or we can say that at that place when a driver playes lower frequency which inturn make the panel vibrate because of light weight. as the panel achives it resonat freq which causes the vibration.

for stuffing the box the fibre fill is fine till it is a sealed box not work good in ported as it will come out..

other enclousre filler are...

normal cotton used in homes....glasswool pads ( not recommended for ported box).....felt sheets (namda in hindi)....

rjstyles69 · 1st November 2006, 14:00

Whats the best fill material for a bass tube?? the damn thingy jars when the bass is too high

. Any thoughts Audio guru's?

madbullram · 1st November 2006, 14:35

LBM:
What do you suggest for the ported box? ANy particular foam, i mean thickness etc or can we use the foam layers available with the bedding guys?

Also, can I need the recron fibre and use inside the box for the ported box?

low_bass_makker · 1st November 2006, 15:56

in a box about 2-3 inch thick layer on 5 side is required to get best result....or about 40 - 60 % of the box should be filled......

Bass&Trouble · 1st November 2006, 16:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by rjstyles69

Whats the best fill material for a bass tube?? the damn thingy jars when the bass is too high

. Any thoughts Audio guru's?

Fill is not intended to prevent jarring. What bass tube are you using? Check if something's loose, or whether it's cone distortion that you hear.

rsjaurr · 1st November 2006, 18:23

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam Kapasi

Doc, he is talking about sound damping inside his wooden box. There is no need to use dynamat extreme inside his wooden box.

oh....whats happening to me?

Actually i typed my answer after abt 30min of clicking 'reply' option.

coming to topic,Sam does any box [ported/sealed] will need damping if made properly of 3/4" MDF wood?
I dont think so...

madbullram · 1st November 2006, 21:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by low_bass_makker

in a box about 2-3 inch thick layer on 5 side is required to get best result....or about 40 - 60 % of the box should be filled......

LBM: Any particular fill or foam thats best?

hydrashok · 2nd November 2006, 11:22

Hmmm... This is something I need to know about too.

1) Why exactly do we need to fill the box? To damp/capture the rear bass waves? Or some other reason?

2) Does a filled/damped box (ported or sealed) make a substantial difference in the bass output?

3) What kind of difference? Tighter Bass? Deeper Bass?

Gurus, pleeeeease?

madbullram · 2nd November 2006, 12:11

I found this interesting view by Richard Clark (considered a guru by some...):

Stuffing a box can make it look a little larger. It changes the box interior from a condition called adiabatic to isothermal. This is because the energy that is normally stored in the air spring in the box is converted into heat and lost from the system. Since the air pushes less on the speaker, the speaker "thinks" the box must be larger. The increase in size is really nominal and really doesn't make as much difference as everyone gives it credit for. The actual material used for stuffing doesn't make much difference either. Fiberglass, lambs wool, fiberfill. an old blanket, will all make about the same amount of difference. As for standing waves the facts here will come as a surprise. The practice of stuffing boxes really came as a result of using woofers into the midrange (400hz to 2khz) in two and three way home systems. In these systems standing waves were a real problem and serious colorations were the result. In car audio where we never use woofers above 100 hz it is not a problem. A standing wave cannot form inside a box below 100 hz if it's longest dimension is less than a couple of feet. Of course this applies even more at 50 or 20 Hz! Actually installers stuff boxes because they have been taught to do so. They rarely understand the physics behind the process and rarely question it because it seems logical. The fact is that a awful lot of boxes get stuffed for no good reason.

Courtesy:
http://www.audiogroupforum.com/csforum/index.php

This makes me think, Dont waste the money...put I just gonna try wiht a reliance recron fiber and see, afterall its just 100rs :-)

navin · 2nd November 2006, 13:16

Hey guys you seem to be confusing sound deading (dymant and co) with sound damping (fiberfill and co). an 19/25mm MDF box needs little deading but depending on the woofer used and tuning can use some sound damping. Usually you should use about 1 lb per cu. ft. Reliance fiberfill is nice as it does not itch when handled. Plain old fiberglass can itch like crazy.

31st October 2006, 20:36	#1
madbullram BHPian Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Chennai&Ashburn Posts: 551 Thanked: 231 Times View My Garage	OKay, now dont throw brickbat at me. I was reasding on the various fills for Sub enclosure and somethign stuck me. Reliance has Recron fiberfill pillows. Now can this be stuffed inside the Sub enclosure as sound absorbing material to get the punch right? Am I or ? http://www.ril.com/html/business/py_ff_know.html I am thinking of this for my Ported sub enclosure which has Pion TS-W306C powered by Pion 7200 mono amp. Cheers! Ram
	() Thanks

1st November 2006, 10:30	#4
rsjaurr BHPian Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Batala Posts: 777 Thanked: 28 Times	Mugen,u can use wurth,fonomat,dynamat regular or dynamat extreme.Later is the most expensive but most effective too.I used it to damp door panels of my car and installation is also very easy.
	() Thanks

1st November 2006, 12:01	#5
Sam Kapasi Distinguished - BHPian Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Mumbai (but wat Posts: 6,997 Thanked: 2,378 Times View My Garage	Doc, he is talking about sound damping inside his wooden box. There is no need to use dynamat extreme inside his wooden box.
	() Thanks

1st November 2006, 14:00	#7
rjstyles69 Senior - BHPian Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Bengalooru.. Posts: 4,343 Thanked: 842 Times View My Garage	Whats the best fill material for a bass tube?? the damn thingy jars when the bass is too high . Any thoughts Audio guru's?
	() Thanks

1st November 2006, 14:35	#8
madbullram BHPian Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Chennai&Ashburn Posts: 551 Thanked: 231 Times View My Garage	LBM: What do you suggest for the ported box? ANy particular foam, i mean thickness etc or can we use the foam layers available with the bedding guys? Also, can I need the recron fibre and use inside the box for the ported box?
	() Thanks

1st November 2006, 15:56	#9
low_bass_makker Senior - BHPian Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Faridabad Posts: 6,815 Thanked: 305 Times View My Garage	in a box about 2-3 inch thick layer on 5 side is required to get best result....or about 40 - 60 % of the box should be filled......
	() Thanks

2nd November 2006, 11:22	#13
hydrashok Senior - BHPian Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: In my Office Posts: 2,528 Thanked: 17 Times View My Garage	Hmmm... This is something I need to know about too. 1) Why exactly do we need to fill the box? To damp/capture the rear bass waves? Or some other reason? 2) Does a filled/damped box (ported or sealed) make a substantial difference in the bass output? 3) What kind of difference? Tighter Bass? Deeper Bass? Gurus, pleeeeease?
	() Thanks

2nd November 2006, 12:11	#14
madbullram BHPian Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Chennai&Ashburn Posts: 551 Thanked: 231 Times View My Garage	I found this interesting view by Richard Clark (considered a guru by some...): Stuffing a box can make it look a little larger. It changes the box interior from a condition called adiabatic to isothermal. This is because the energy that is normally stored in the air spring in the box is converted into heat and lost from the system. Since the air pushes less on the speaker, the speaker "thinks" the box must be larger. The increase in size is really nominal and really doesn't make as much difference as everyone gives it credit for. The actual material used for stuffing doesn't make much difference either. Fiberglass, lambs wool, fiberfill. an old blanket, will all make about the same amount of difference. As for standing waves the facts here will come as a surprise. The practice of stuffing boxes really came as a result of using woofers into the midrange (400hz to 2khz) in two and three way home systems. In these systems standing waves were a real problem and serious colorations were the result. In car audio where we never use woofers above 100 hz it is not a problem. A standing wave cannot form inside a box below 100 hz if it's longest dimension is less than a couple of feet. Of course this applies even more at 50 or 20 Hz! Actually installers stuff boxes because they have been taught to do so. They rarely understand the physics behind the process and rarely question it because it seems logical. The fact is that a awful lot of boxes get stuffed for no good reason. Courtesy: http://www.audiogroupforum.com/csforum/index.php This makes me think, Dont waste the money...put I just gonna try wiht a reliance recron fiber and see, afterall its just 100rs :-)
	() Thanks

2nd November 2006, 13:16	#15
navin Team-BHP Support Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Mumbai Posts: 25,199 Thanked: 9,307 Times	Hey guys you seem to be confusing sound deading (dymant and co) with sound damping (fiberfill and co). an 19/25mm MDF box needs little deading but depending on the woofer used and tuning can use some sound damping. Usually you should use about 1 lb per cu. ft. Reliance fiberfill is nice as it does not itch when handled. Plain old fiberglass can itch like crazy.
	() Thanks