[adityamunshi]

I think its best to use branded or unbranded rubber sheets.

I used 1.5 mm thickness and multiple layers if i felt there was too much space between the panel and the door. The thick material is fine for the door cavity.

Originally Posted by viper_711

You may be right here aditya - I can't comment on this as i've mainly concentrated only on the door cavity as yet. I'll see what i can do between the plastic shell and the door. Suggestions are welcome.

[mohang_j]

[quote=adityamunshi;901684]10mm may fit into the door cavity when you're damping the outer shell but there are hardly a few millimetres of space between the plastic panel and the metal door frame.[\quote]
I have pasted foam in between plastic door pad and the metal .

[adityamunshi]

When i was looking for an alternative to commerical damping materials, i asked DerAlte ji the same question. He suggested that i stuff the space between the panel and door as a last resort.

IIRC, one of the gurus also said that foam absorbs high frequencies very well but is no so good for damping the vibrations and low frequencies.

If you can get your hands on rubber sheets (butyl is the best but a bit expensive, otherwise look at the weight per sq ft., dynamat is 0.25 kg per sq ft , the material i used was around 0.2 kg per sq ft.) they should work quite well and are easy to apply with fevicol SR.


[quote=mohang_j;903898]

Originally Posted by adityamunshi

10mm may fit into the door cavity when you're damping the outer shell but there are hardly a few millimetres of space between the plastic panel and the metal door frame.[\quote]
I have pasted foam in between plastic door pad and the metal .

[mohang_j]

Originally Posted by adityamunshi

When i was looking for an alternative to commerical damping materials, i asked DerAlte ji the same question. He suggested that i stuff the space between the panel and door as a last resort.

IIRC, one of the gurus also said that foam absorbs high frequencies very well but is no so good for damping the vibrations and low frequencies.

If you can get your hands on rubber sheets (butyl is the best but a bit expensive, otherwise look at the weight per sq ft., dynamat is 0.25 kg per sq ft , the material i used was around 0.2 kg per sq ft.) they should work quite well and are easy to apply with fevicol SR.

In fact i have used it to get rid of door pad rattling than damping.If i remember correctly you have purchased some butyl rubber sheet.Can you tell me from whare you got it and at what price.?

[adityamunshi]

I did not get butyl rubber sheets, these were available but were quite costly for a DIY experiment (300 per kg). instead i bought sheets of natural rubber +neoprene mix. These were @ 75 per kg (~4.5 sq ft).
You should get them at a rubber shop in the part of your city that sells industrial items. Search for shops in the yellow pages.

Originally Posted by mohang_j

In fact i have used it to get rid of door pad rattling than damping.If i remember correctly you have purchased some butyl rubber sheet.Can you tell me from whare you got it and at what price.?

[Danindica]

The Armaflex has a self-adhesive side and I managed to cut pieces and stick it to the metal after cleaning the surface as best i could to achieve a near seam less cladding on the door insides.

Thanks a lot for sharing your discovery arhcitect sa'ab. Though I plan to buy in from marredpally tmrw and do it this Sunday, a question nags me.

Just a thought really, but now, with the cladding stuck to the outer inside surface of the door's sheet metal, how will the water that gets in during rains or washing(unintentionally) drain out? Is the surface of the armacell such that is will retain only miniscule quantities or can it pose a real corrosion threat?
Could you please throw some light on that. Thanks a lot.

[viper_711]

Dan,
I've opened the door cavity recently (after about a year of installing the damping material) and did not notice any problems - the drain holes for water are at the bottom of the door and I've been careful not to obstruct this. My car gets washed everyday and bangalore rainfall is intermittent over almost 8-9 months!

[Danindica]

Thanks a lot Viper*, especially for your promptness.

Your answer allays my fears. I have found a local distributor's address for the Armacell and wiil be buying the stuff today and probably carrying out the DIY on Sunday. Per your advice, I will take care of a clean passage to the drain slits and will see if polyethene cling wrapping the Armacell pieces before sticking them up is viable. Will get back to Team-BHPians ASAP.

Thanks a lot!

*why that name...sorry though

[kiren]

Originally Posted by viper_711

Dan,
I've opened the door cavity recently (after about a year of installing the damping material) and did not notice any problems - the drain holes for water are at the bottom of the door and I've been careful not to obstruct this. My car gets washed everyday and bangalore rainfall is intermittent over almost 8-9 months!

Viper,

Can you post few photos after your installation.

A thicker material like armacell 10mm might be difficult to fix instead i think you should look at 3mm nitrile foams if available. Further butyl sheets should not be used as it can melt due to heat.

[Danindica]

Originally Posted by kiren

Viper,

Can you post few photos after your installation.

A thicker material like armacell 10mm might be difficult to fix instead i think you should look at 3mm nitrile foams if available. Further butyl sheets should not be used as it can melt due to heat.

Butyl sheets melt at 100 deg C.
The car's panels can reach that temp due to Greenhouse effect i suppose.

[saravananj]

Originally Posted by mohang_j

I have pasted foam in between plastic door pad and the metal .

Do u mean that you pasted foam only in the corners/edges and the bulk portion of the foam is just there without any glue? If so how do you think this will lead to improvement in damping?

[Danindica]

Originally Posted by adityamunshi

I think, rubber sheets would work better. 10mm is too thick to put into any door.

Hi,

I have used Armaflex sound deadening material (non-automotive use, but on metal).

There is a small word of caution for anyone who might be trying to paste it to the insides of the doors. While the material itself is absolutely non porous and does not hold water at all; one will have to make sure that there is no space (gaps or pockets) left between the metal and the Armaflex sheet.

Pockets created while sticking the rubber sheet can hold water that enters the doors while washing and normal use. That can cause horrible corrosion.

One can see that the doors on the Indica have small rectangular slots under the beading at the bottom to let all water out. These are also best left uncovered (open).

Regards,
Dan