Team-BHP - Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q!

Pretty good, @hrsraghav. Perhaps, as LBM suggested, you could make some aesthetic improvements:
* Get some rexine that matches the door-pad shade
* Trim (with the reti / file) the spacer to 1mm less than the speaker outer dia. Also the inner hole 1 mm more than the current dia
* With rubber solution, stick the rexine neatly to the spacer. You will need to make V-shaped cuts in the rexine (in the side that goes under the spacer) to get the rexine to wrap around properly.
* Again with rubber solution (a few dabs will do), stick the spacer to the underside of the speaker mounting frame to prevent it from falling off while mounting
* Yes, reverse the bolts so that the nuts are behind the door pad

Was the speaker magnet fouling with the glass if mounted without the spacer? If not, perhaps it would be better to mount the spacer behind the door pad - provides better stiffness to the doorpad without spoiling the appearance.

PS: "Reti" = file

Can the gurus please explain what speaker specification sheet means when it says :

Rated Power Output [14.4V]
- 60W x 4 at 4ohms [20-20kHz 0.08% THD] 4 Channel mode
- 90W x 4 at 2ohms [1kHz 0.8% THD]
- 180W x 2 at Bridged 4ohms [1khz 0.8% THD]

What difference is it to the speakers when power is delivered at 2 or at 4 ohms?
__________________________________________________ ___________________
I am planning to power my front components (Illusion EL 6.1) and Rear coaxials using 2 channels each of the amplifier.

EL 6.1 spec sheet says-
Power handling - RMS/peak 75/185 W
Woofer impedence - 4 ohms

And GZ Titanium GZTF 69T says-
Power 120 watt RMS / 180 watt max

Would the above amplifier be under powered to drive these 4 speakers? Considering that it can shell out only 60W RMS per channel at 4 ohms?

If yes, what power output specs should I look at in considering the amp? My budget for the amp is 5.5K. I wish to drive only the above 4 speakers with this amp

If power output is low than what the 4 speakers need, should I bridge the 2 channels to drive the components, and use the HU to drive the coaxials? (In which case I would sacrifice on the lows from the ovals)

Quote:

Originally Posted by bottle (Post 790604)

@hrsraghav

were you able to mount back the parcel/paper holder with the speaker grill after using 6inch speakers ?

I suppose you are asking about the stock parcel/paper holder which comes with Door.
The inner circumference near speaker area, of that holder is slightly more than 6", and as the fabric on the door was having impressions of the Holder (you cann see those impressions in last picture), so i could judge whether the spacer/speaker will touch holder or not.
Other limitation apart from circumference was the height, Any spacer more than 10mm high with 3-4mm height of speaker and additional 3-4 mm hieight of nuts will touch the holder (so total of around 16-17mm). So after taking exact measurments i had to cut the extra bolt height. Or if you want more thick spacer than the there is cylinder inside that holder for around 1" height, you have to trim it. It is this cylinder which touches the speaker and that too on the rubber linings around the speaker which moves to and fro.
Bade bhaai, thing with me was, i couldn't get spacer in gurgaon, and i was geting damn bore on that day. I would suggest ki you buy the standard ones and get it done at some good place (if you have any around you).

Quote:

Originally Posted by DerAlte (Post 790288)

Sorry, I had meant the VOLUME setting (controls the "loudness" of music in general), not the LOUDNESS setting (controls the "loudness" of low freq specifically). So what "volume" do you play at normally?

i mentioned the volume setting itself sir.
volume @ 18 when the corresponding loudness setting at LOW,
volume @ 14 when the corresponding loudness setting at MEDIUM,
volume @ 10 to 12 when the corresponding loudness setting at HIGH.
I its clear now.

Quote:

I noticed one thing after auditioning some of the hyd bhpians ICE, Both the basstube and enclosure type didnt give the sound which i was expecting. May be the free air type would do.
I want the bass similar to our TV system. I dont know it would be possible because of the size of the car cabin is lot different than a living room.

If you put it that way, you don't need a sub!!! What you need is a good pair of ovals that play low enough (80 Hz maybe). With an amp driving the coax, you will be able to HPF the ovals and get the crucial (for you) 80-160Hz region loud enough as you get with your TV.

is this range applicable to any TV set or the one I mentioned (BPL BZR25) as our TV set comes with built-in woofer. Thats the kind of bass I want. It came with 3/4 way speakers (similar to a component system 1 tweeter, 2 midrange(?), 1 woofer on either side) I think I should include the TV pic. But the woofers are not circular in shape neither are the midrange speakers.

Quote:

Yes, since most speakers meant for ICE are 4 ohms impedance; some are 2 or 3 ohms.

yes sir you are right, my mistake. Its 4 ohms.

Quote:

No, not at all. On the contrary, such situations demand more analysis, and finding solutions give a lot of satisfaction under such conditions.

thank you very much. Your words are encouraging me a lot.

Also I would like to know:

how would the ICE sound with the rear co-axials in enclosed boxes:
1. With Amp.
2. Without Amp.

How would be the difference if they are kept in a ported boxes instead of sealed?

What difference it would make if single enclosure is used instead of separate for each one both in the case of sealed and ported.

Also I forgot to add earlier that my car is Indica. The rear speakers are mounted on the parcel tray. The speakers with the parcel tray act like a big enclosure. There is a considerable change in the bass when the boot is loaded(i think thats due to the decrease in the volume of air).

If I put the rear ovals in the boot and a new parcel tray, it becomes like a huge enclosure with enclosures inside(like smaller enclosures enclosed in larger enclosure). Will this have an effect on the sound??

BTW, what shape can the enclosure be made???
Are they supposed to be in cuboid shape only or any other shape(trapezoid, eliptoid,...) would do.
Is it the dimensions which matter or the volume or both??

raj.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Magma (Post 789783)

Oval 6*9 coaxial speakers produce more bass than 6inch round co axial speakers
Only thing is that they have to be mounted on the rear parcel shelf since its really difficult to fit them on the stock 6inch rear door provision.
HOwever if you are satisfied with the bass produced by 6inch round speakers then you can fit them on the rear door provison itself
Please audition and decide.

for 9000rs
FRONT
Front Components
JBL GTO607

REAR
rears parcel shelf
6*9 ovals JBL937
or
in the rear door
6inch round coaxials from a brand called Ground Zero(for which you have to contact a fellow bhpian "BAss and trouble"
p.S : the only reason i have suggested this brand is because INMO these speakers would produce more bass than other brand 6inch rounds in the same price point

Blaupunkt is also a good brand.
if you like buy:thumbs up

HU's can be purchased in grey ( especially when you are on a budget)
no problem

Speakers i generally buy in BIll and warranty

At a small to medium budget its not worth importing anything from america INMHO

Ali

Thank you Ali for your detailed reply. I'll keep these in mind & proceed. Will trouble you again if I run into any problems.

regards

Krishnan

Quote:

Originally Posted by nishantgandhi

Can the gurus please explain what speaker specification sheet means when it says :

Rated Power Output [14.4V]
- 60W x 4 at 4ohms [20-20kHz 0.08% THD] 4 Channel mode

It means that it is an amplifier specification sheet, not speaker. :)

Quote:

Originally Posted by nishantgandhi

What difference is it to the speakers when power is delivered at 2 or at 4 ohms?

Makes no difference to the speaker.

Dont bother with all these power / shower thingys. Get the most powerful good-brand amp you can get for your budget and hook it up to the speakers. Most people drive the speakers you name off the head unit also. You'll be much better off.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bass&Trouble (Post 791406)

It means that it is an amplifier specification sheet, not speaker. :)

Typo. My bad :)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bass&Trouble (Post 791406)

Makes no difference to the speaker.

So why is it mentioned?stupid: Do these refer to subwoofer?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bass&Trouble (Post 791406)

Dont bother with all these power / shower thingys. Get the most powerful good-brand amp you can get for your budget and hook it up to the speakers. Most people drive the speakers you name off the head unit also. You'll be much better off.

Would you say the Kenwood 8401 is 'good enough' vis-a-vis Blaupunt GTA4, for the speakers that I have mentioned? Both these are within my budget.

A dealer told me that Kenwood 8401 is good if you wish to drive JBL speakers. However, for GZ/Illusion components, it is advisable to go for Blaupunt GTA4. I dont know why he said that. Can you please clarify and advise?

Also, is it true that using 2 channels of the amp to power rear coaxials will 'overpower' them? And cause them to sound more than front compos?
I am quite sure there must be cross over/frequency/fader settings to tackle this problem?