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Hello Sam,
I need your advise on ICE for Mahindra Scorpio Special Edition. It comes with 9" DVD on rooftop...which I would retain. I want to change the main HU and speakers. My budget - 50-60k including HU, Speakers, Subwoofer / tube & cables. I am looking out for something similar to JVC 846 (Need Bluetooth & Steering control with touch screen).
regards
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Kapasi
(Post 97439)
Howdy! I was introduced to this forum by Revvhead, who I see has put up a few pictures of the old JBL palio.
Well i have a lot of pictures of great sounding cars (naturally), which i'll put up sometimes.
Nice to be here, hope to meet some interesting folks.
Ok so... I'm happy to offer advice on Car Sound. Like serious advice. I'm what you call "qualified" :)
Maybe i should start up a new car audio thread, dunno, help me here. |
Quote:
Originally Posted by vinit_relan
(Post 2399302)
Hello Experts,
1. Need help with Speakers - Type & Brand for both front and back.
2. Need help with Double Din touch scrren HU...
3. Do I need to put an Amp?
4. Shall I also add sub woofer or something else like a tube.
Budget - Aprrox 60k. |
Quote:
Originally Posted by vinit_relan
(Post 2399913)
Hello Sam,
I need your advise on ICE for Mahindra Scorpio Special Edition. |
Vinit, Sam is also an "expert". In fact Audio is
not the only field he is an expert in. :uncontrol
60K
Your HU will cost you about 25K
Damping, Wires and install labour will cost you about 10K
That leaves 25K for an amp, 4 speakers and a sub.
Front and Rear Speakers 9K JBL GT5, Bull Audio, Blaupunkt THC/THx
Sub with bok: 7K
Amp: 10K JBL's 1004 would be your best bet. Use it to drive the subwoofer and front speakers. Let the HU drive the rears.
Quote:
Originally Posted by vgudale
(Post 2388133)
My question is that,i had tunned these subwoofer at 31 volt and at 80 hz,but at these gain setting the subwoofer gives the flattering sound...is there any issue of impedence?means gto 1004 gives 4 ohm at bridge mode for rear channel?please help! |
31 volt?
I assume the subwoofer is being pushed to it's limits (making a phat-phat sound). If so the subwoofer's suspension may be damaged? Was teh subwoofer subject any abuse?
The 1004 is safe at 4 ohm bridged but NOT at lower impedances.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sajjt
(Post 2387515)
Here's my query:
Now the front speakers are outperforming the rear as its being driven by the HU. I want to make it in a balanced form. I am thinking of to connect the rear speakers to the AMP where the front speakers are connected. But the rear speakers will not handle the load the AMP exerts, so is it possible to put a preset in between the rear speakers and the AMP to adjust it to a safe level? |
Why not use the fader control of the HU to balance the sound between the front and rear? Typically we advise people tp use the amp to drive the front speakers as the image of the music should be in the front like the performers are on a stage in front of you. However if you prefer your music coming from behind you you can connect the rear speakers to the amp and the front speakers to the HU instead.
Quote:
Originally Posted by navin
(Post 2401065)
Why not use the fader control of the HU to balance the sound between the front and rear? Typically we advise people tp use the amp to drive the front speakers as the image of the music should be in the front like the performers are on a stage in front of you. However if you prefer your music coming from behind you you can connect the rear speakers to the amp and the front speakers to the HU instead. |
Thank you Navin, you are right I also like the idea of music to be prominent in the front, but here, being powered from the HU and my rear speakers are just 4" it is too subtle. Now the fader is R4 and if I increase more, I am losing the charm from the front. I want to make it bit more bright by connecting to the AMP. Will this give considerable stress on AMP? Am more concerned about the AMPs heat dispersing capabilities as it can warm up the cabin once the AC is off in a few minutes. If the heater function is not working, this can also be considered as cabin heater if you have any heavy hip hops trackslol:
Quote:
Originally Posted by sajjt
(Post 2401096)
Now the fader is R4 and if I increase more, I am losing the charm from the front. I want to make it bit more bright by connecting to the AMP. Will this give considerable stress on AMP? |
Do not connect the front and rear speakers to the same channel on the amp. Few amps can take this. A 4" speaker will be very limited in it's output. Even driven by an amp it will not have much bass or impact.
Quote:
Originally Posted by navin
(Post 2401104)
Do not connect the front and rear speakers to the same channel on the amp. Few amps can take this. A 4" speaker will be very limited in it's output. Even driven by an amp it will not have much bass or impact. |
Thanks Navin for the prompt reply, this is why I asked for you to put a preset where I can adjust the levels to the 4".
In fact, I had a setup where all the speakers were connected to the AMP before the sub woofer install and the gains were adjusted on the AMP as it was connected independently. Yes 4" can't contribute much in terms of punch and on higher volumes, it tends to crack but that was a well balanced one at least for my better half (She have to content with the rear seat as my junior can't think of sacrificing the front seat) as the music was filled almost equally admitting that punch was bit subtle in rear and essentially that was the preferred one. I guess these back seat drivers doesn't like the idea of music to be over powering their commandslol: Am always reminded to reduce the Sub level from the HU when ever she's with me.
But now, while typing this, I dropped the idea of missing the fader function as its very important during night drives where the rear speakers can be muted.
Thank you once again for the advices.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sajjt
(Post 2401221)
Yes 4" can't contribute much in terms of punch and on higher volumes, it tends to crack but that was a well balanced one at least for my better half (She have to content with the rear seat as my junior can't think of sacrificing the front seat) as the music was filled almost equally admitting that punch was bit subtle in rear and essentially that was the preferred one. |
To reduce the 'cracking' in the rear speakers you can install a bass blocker. This is simply 2 470uf caps soldered back to back. Bass will roll off and hence the dirver will not be forced to move as much.
Lastly, it is not advisable to have children in the front seat.
Quote:
Originally Posted by navin
(Post 2401455)
To reduce the 'cracking' in the rear speakers you can install a bass blocker. This is simply 2 470uf caps soldered back to back. Bass will roll off and hence the dirver will not be forced to move as much.
Lastly, it is not advisable to have children in the front seat. |
OK, will try that and update here. You mean to say 2nos of 470uf caps in series on any of the line or one each parallel?
Point taken, I too know its not advisable that kids on front seats. He's currently under training for how to be gentle on rear seats:)
^^ In series with same polarities soldered together. That will create a non-polar capacitor of ~235 uf.
Great thread! I've searched this long thread but couldn't find what I was looking for. I've booked a Fluidic Verna CRDi SX and am expecting it in a couple of months. In the mean time I'm doing research on ICEs.
The vehicle comes with a stock HU with bluetooth and steering controls which work really well with my phone (Samsung Galaxy S). I plan to only use the HU to play the radio(very occasionally) and play music from my phone through bluetooth. Therefore I do not wish to change my HU. I also read in a Verna thread that the HU sports pre-outs.
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/test-d...ml#post2369009
I'll be driving the car 100% of the time, so only front seat for me.
I listen mostly to Dave Matthews Band (Blues Rock) and alternative rock. I do not wish to have a sub woofer and my wife is frankly tired of not having boot space any more. All 3 of my previous cars (Palio GTX, Elantra GT and the Getz CRDi) sported subwoofers in the boot.
I've been driving my dad's ANHC and like the sound very much, crisp bass and the sound is not too rich. Unfortunately the stock speakers of the Verna sound inadequate.
I have a budget of 20K and would like to replace all the stock speakers and have an amp power them from underneath the passenger seat (again don't want to damage the amp in the boot by stuffing it with boxes). The goal is not for it to sound loud but for it to sound good.
Thanks for your help guys.
Thank you very much Navin. This definitely helps. I am going to Evo in Bangalore for the setup and will definitely keep this in my mind. I will definitely come back to you for your advice if i get stuck somewhere.
Do you have any advise on HU other than JVC 846 with similar features. People talk about Alpine & Pioneer to be better. Also please let me know which Mono Amp will be better and how much the budget will go up? Please suggest. I am sure I am asking some stupid questions but i am very new to ICE. I have never modified anything in my previous cars (Baleno Vxi & Spark LT)
Quote:
Originally Posted by navin
(Post 2401065)
Vinit, Sam is also an "expert". In fact Audio is not the only field he is an expert in. :uncontrol 60K
Your HU will cost you about 25K
Damping, Wires and install labour will cost you about 10K
That leaves 25K for an amp, 4 speakers and a sub.
Front and Rear Speakers 9K JBL GT5, Bull Audio, Blaupunkt THC/THx
Sub with bok: 7K
Amp: 10K JBL's 1004 would be your best bet. Use it to drive the subwoofer and front speakers. Let the HU drive the rears.
31 volt?
I assume the subwoofer is being pushed to it's limits (making a phat-phat sound). If so the subwoofer's suspension may be damaged? Was teh subwoofer subject any abuse?
The 1004 is safe at 4 ohm bridged but NOT at lower impedances.
Why not use the fader control of the HU to balance the sound between the front and rear? Typically we advise people tp use the amp to drive the front speakers as the image of the music should be in the front like the performers are on a stage in front of you. However if you prefer your music coming from behind you you can connect the rear speakers to the amp and the front speakers to the HU instead. |
I am looking to finalize the ICE for my soon to arrive Polo TL. This is the setup I have sort of arrived at after searching the forum
HU: Kenwood KDC-X7016
Front Comps: Rainbow SLG Titans / SLX 265 Deluxe (suggest which is better)
Amp: Audison SR 4 / Focal Solid 4 (suggest which is better)
Sub: Rainbow Hammer / ID CTX 12" (suggest which is better)
Need your opinions on the above setup. I would like a high SQ setup. Also suggest wiring/damping options.
Quote:
Originally Posted by e-katz
(Post 2402285)
I am looking to finalize the ICE for my soon to arrive Polo TL. This is the setup I have sort of arrived at after searching the forum
HU: Kenwood KDC-X7016
Front Comps: Rainbow SLG Titans / SLX 265 Deluxe (suggest which is better)
Amp: Audison SR 4 / Focal Solid 4 (suggest which is better)
Sub: Rainbow Hammer / ID CTX 12" (suggest which is better)
Need your opinions on the above setup. I would like a high SQ setup. Also suggest wiring/damping options. |
What is your overall budget for the setup ? From the list above HU and choice of front components (SLX if you have the budget) seems fine. But the amp and sub needs a change in my opinion. A overall budget figure would make things easy for suggesting better equipment.
Quote:
Originally Posted by vinit_relan
(Post 2401899)
Do you have any advise on HU other than JVC 846 with similar features. People talk about Alpine & Pioneer to be better. Also please let me know which Mono Amp will be better and how much the budget will go up? Please suggest. I am sure I am asking some stupid questions but i am very new to ICE. I have never modified anything in my previous cars (Baleno Vxi & Spark LT) |
The 836 (and hence I suppose the 846 as well) is a very good HU for the money. Alpine and Pioneer 2 DIN HUs are more expensive.
If you intend to have a mono + 4 ch. amp your amplifier budget alpne will be about 20K. The JBL 3501 for example has a street price of about 12K. You could then add a 644 which sells for about 7K.
Quote:
Originally Posted by donarun
(Post 2402416)
What is your overall budget for the setup ? From the list above HU and choice of front components (SLX if you have the budget) seems fine. But the amp and sub needs a change in my opinion. A overall budget figure would make things easy for suggesting better equipment. |
Donarun - I dont expect to do it all at once, but for the HU and front compos - I can stretch myself to 25K.
For the amp and sub, again I would put a budget of around 20-25K to start with :)
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