Team-BHP - Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q!

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Quote:

Originally Posted by navin (Post 2322416)

Most amps have a fuse. If there is a short, the fuse will blow. Most amps also have other short circuit protection. But like I said earlier when a speaker blows (it indeed your subwoofer has) it is an open circuit so you amp will be safe. Please check the impedance of the woofer to confirm it has blown and your wiring.

Thanks navin bhai.I got it,it was wiring fault the speakers wires coming from amplifier to basstube camed from under seat and because of movement of seats the wire is squeezed and some copper touched the ground!! so that this is happend!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam Kapasi (Post 2322471)

Actually your installer has used the correct technique of elimination. If the amplifier does not go into protect with the new basstube and plays normally, then it is clear that the fault lies in the old bass tube.

It has mostly happened due to incorrect frequency settings (no LPF) or simply due to over-driving.
It is in fact quite easy to blow any speaker with a lower-powered amplifier. It causes greater clipping and greater distortion which are the main reasons for a speaker failing.

While I agree with checking on the impedance of the bass tube with a meter, I don't agree with the fact that every blown speaker is always open.

In my life I have come across plenty of over-driven speakers where the coil has literally melted, or come off it's gluing and the speaker has shown as zero impedance.

I'm guessing the gentleman's bass tube will show 0Ω impedance

THanks sam for giving step by step answers.i had got the real problem,wire shorted somewhere and touched the ground and then Dhak Dhak sound camed,and by shorting the basstube went in problem.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sajjt (Post 2324251)

Am surprised to see that none of our ICE gurus have paid proper attention to this very valid point:Frustrati A fuse should be installed in between the power cable and that should be at the source to take care of any short circuits which can be fatal at times. And I learned this rule of thumb from this forum only

Thanks dude, im worried about this issue daily.i dont know consequences of not using the fuse holder between the power cable.but im going to upgrade new wiring kit to Scosche e1000 clap: and will give me good sleep :ZZZ:

Quote:

Originally Posted by DerAlte (Post 2324998)

:eek:Played directly from the battery? You mean he pulse tested the bass tube by using a battery?

Probably there was a loose contact either in the bass tube or in the connections outside.

yes he pulse tested basstube directly from battery.but previously basstube wont played,when connected to amplifier,amplifier wents in protection mode.but at same time when connected new basstube it played.

but when pulse tested with damaged basstube and after that connected to amplifier,it worked without going amplifier in protection mode!
may be pulse tested had done some miracles!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by vgudale (Post 2324771)

Add a fuse block as well to the list to make yourself safe and I would say it surely can be a life saver at times. I really doubt these road side installers competency as most of these are just laymen and treating as silly as screw driver job:deadhorse

Once I had to fight with a technician (don't know whether I can call him like that) who was simply tucking all the signal wires and power cable on the same side wall and he was literally securing with insulation tape to keep it intact. Its very difficult to convince these morons the importance of isolation of these wires. Most ridiculous thing is, once the distortion starts they will start complaining about the quality of the components we brought in and not a word against their work quality:Frustrati.

Hi audio guru's, I have a real big dilemma, i tried searching through the forums for this query and i did seem to read something, but i need to know more ..

I have a 2007 Honda Civic, And the stock HU has a 6-CD MP3/WMA changer. I am sick of burning cd's and on the dash, there is a button which says CD/AUX. There doesn't seem to be any aux-in port outside the dash. I happened to read that, there is an aux-in beneath the HU. So what is the solution, will i have to get it opened up by some local garage guy and find the port, or is there more to it ..?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam Kapasi (Post 2322471)

I'm guessing the gentleman's bass tube will show 0Ω impedance

Quote:

Originally Posted by cranky (Post 2322553)

Open circuit usually happens when the excess power is instantaneous and of a very large magnitude, closed circuit is caused by gradual overheating for long durations and finally one hair on the camel's back that breaks it.

A dynamic loudspeaker is a coil aka inductor. When an inductor fails it open circuits and will do regardless of if the failure is thermal or electrical.

A thermal short due to failure of insulation will lead to partial short of the voice coil. This partial short should not damage most mordern amplifiers.

Capacitors short circuit when they fail which is why a series cap is no guarantee of protection for a tweeter.

Quote:

Originally Posted by vgudale (Post 2324795)

He just plugged to direct battery and it played in phase...know what is this? :mad:

Checking the woofer's phase using a battery is common. When the woofer is in phase the cone moves out. If the voice coil was blown the wofoer would not move at all.

navin, I speak from personal experience of an Usher tweeter failing with too much power for 3 seconds. The coil measures 0 ohms (present tense as the coil is still with me, though not in use). The voice coil may be wound on an aluminum bobbin - in which case all is needed is for the two contact points to melt.

Here, on page 2, is one way of short-circuiting a voice coil: http://www.davidreaton.com/PDFs/Loudspeaker_Failure.pdf

And another interesting one that attributes shorted coils to rubbing: http://www.onesystems.com/pdf/educat...oice_Coils.pdf

Remember the wire from the tinsel junction till the start of the coil is not part of the inductor. And it too is glued to the former, it would be merciful if the glue melted before catastrophe but we've seen enough pro amps go into protection to know that speakers do fail shorted. Admittedly in home situations that may not be the case always.

And caps do fail open circuit (eventually), unless they are tantalums, in which case they fail short circuit :) The only reason for a series cap is for DC protection (with correct polarity or no polarity appropriately observed). In any case with a cap of 50WV (smaller than normal) it would be a humanly impossible for a amplifier output stage to provide that much DC without melting itself to bits.

Resistors can be either, depending on failure mode.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ramie2400 (Post 2327256)

You can try getting the touchscreen from Pioneer/Kenwood or try getting a SQ Headunit clarion with TA ;)

thanx ramie bhai..i just love pioneer 4350 DVD.but it doest come with front detachable faceplate.i am thinking about 2 din just for the looks.dont like alpines single din lookwise.what are the other options for 2 din with detachable faceplate.or i should go for single din only?in that case i didnt like alpine 117.would choose 103.stupid:how about pioneer 9350?

Quote:

Originally Posted by procircuit_234 (Post 2327976)

Don't go for looks. Rather main aim should be SQ and decent features such as ipod support / usb / TA etc.

The ICE on my Corsa works only when the key is in ignition.

So, each time I turn off the engine, I lose the pre-saved radio channels and the last folder I was playing on the CD.

Although I don't mind losing the radio channel frequencies, what I find irritating with this setup is that I have to turn off the ICE when I am idling at a signal (I turn off the engine). Now I could keep the key on Ignition, but then the Radiator fan starts and being on ignition, it works on the battery : something I don't want.

Even more irritating is to manually go to the folder/song I was earlier playing; something I can't do all the time in traffic.

My Zen has the ICE configured in a way that the ICE will work even when the key is in No. 2 position (i.e. direct connection).

I am quite in the mind to have the wiring changed so the ICE works without the key having to be on Ignition. Here's what I want to know before that -
1) Are any of the 2 configurations technically better?
2) is it DIY type?