Team-BHP - Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q!
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Quote:

Originally Posted by eagle_bush (Post 3130758)
... I was trying to save on buying RCA cables, ...

:)No, you don't save anything. With LoC (for tapping high level output) you still have to buy RCA cables to connect to amp.

Quote:

Originally Posted by eagle_bush (Post 3130758)
... I know my question might be a little confusing ...

No I understood. Your confusion was due to the above misunderstanding.

If there are 3 Pre-outs, use RCA only - at least you save on the LOC cost (usually costlier than the average RCA cables)

Quote:

Originally Posted by DerAlte (Post 3130792)
:)No, you don't save anything. With LoC (for tapping high level output) you still have to buy RCA cables to connect to amp.

Not if the amplifier itself accepts a High Level Input with the plug and play cables, which was precisely my dilemma :D.

Quote:

Originally Posted by eagle_bush (Post 3130814)
Not if the amplifier itself accepts a High Level Input with the plug and play cables, which was precisely my dilemma.

Sorry, my bad! You are changing the HU but retaining the THA555.

Sure, you can use both. Check the manual - it has 3 RCA inputs, which means it can accept - apart from FL-FR and RL-RR - the Sub-out from the HU. That should solve your problem.

Quote:

Originally Posted by selfdrive (Post 3124694)
... Nano ... current setup which is a Sony Xplod HU with a couple of front speakers, ...

Help us help you:

1. Couple of pics of the current setup, especially what is mounted where (matters for the speakers)

2. What is the size of the current speakers? You can measure at the external periphery of the grill using a scale

3. What is the make / model of the speakers?

To start with, you need not change the HU. Let us see if we can first put in components in front, so that you get an immediate improvement (I assume the existing speakers are no good).

Next, perhaps you can add (needs a bit of jugglery in a Nano) a pair of 6x9 coaxes on a 'parcel shelf'. This will need an MDF board to go on top of the 'firewall', raised just enough to mount the ovals.

Can't do much with the NVH of that car, but maybe good music at a decent volume will make you forget the noise. Meanwhile, go audition different component speakers and ovals in cars from the dealers, and don't tell them you need them for a Nano! :p No audition, no buy!

Quote:

Originally Posted by DerAlte (Post 3130873)
Can't do much with the NVH of that car, but maybe good music at a decent volume will make you forget the noise. Meanwhile, go audition different component speakers and ovals in cars from the dealers, and don't tell them you need them for a Nano! :p No audition, no buy!

Thanks a ton for your inputs. I will return to you with measurements shortly. Will audition at some places mentioned earlier in this thread and will take my other car along just to make sure.

Appreciate your interest in this topic :)

Quote:

Originally Posted by DerAlte (Post 3130873)
Can't do much with the NVH of that car, but maybe good music at a decent volume will make you forget the noise. Meanwhile, go audition different component speakers and ovals in cars from the dealers, and don't tell them you need them for a Nano! :p No audition, no buy!

Damping the doors and firewall with products like Dynamat can help reduce NVH. If one really wants to get aggressive at reducing NVH there are foam products like Duramix that can be used to fill nooks and crannies and damp noise,

I want to buy the cheapest available cone speakers from JBL, Pioneer, Sony etc.
I came across this one. I s it okay to get these?

JBL Cone Speakers

Quote:

Originally Posted by searchingheaven (Post 3132712)
I want to buy the cheapest available cone speakers from JBL, Pioneer, Sony etc. ...

Which car do you want to put them in? What else is there in your car (other speakers, head unit etc.)?

Sony and Pioneer are likely to be cheaper. But, unless you are familiar with how they sound, it is better that you check at a physical shop first to know how they sound.

Quote:

Originally Posted by DerAlte (Post 3132741)
Which car do you want to put them in? What else is there in your car (other speakers, head unit etc.)?

Sony and Pioneer are likely to be cheaper. But, unless you are familiar with how they sound, it is better that you check at a physical shop first to know how they sound.

Ford Ikon, Sony Xplod, kenwood door speakers, No issues with even barbones Sound Quality.

May be a naïve question, but I was wondering how much RMS power would the OEM speaker wires be able to handle?

Will they suffice if we use a 4 channel amplifier rated up to 75W RMS ?

Sorry for the delay guys, I wanted to be sure about my setup first and then get back to you guys with few questions. Took out everything last weekend to check the setup. Please find below my observations on the same.


Quote:

Originally Posted by DerAlte (Post 3124162)
n your system, quite likely that the Hertz coaxials are playing from the HU, and the sub is driven by the rear amp channels bridged.


1) Rear Hertz Coaxials and Front GTO components both are driven by the front channel only ( Tell me guys, am I assuming correctly that this is where the actual problem is or at least 80% of it ? )

2) Sub is bridged and connected to rear channel from the amp.

3) Can't wire rear speakers directly from HU as HU has only two channel output ( Front and Rear ).

Quote:

Originally Posted by general_neo (Post 3124356)
The draw backs I see in your setup!
* Using Hilevel input

So, Only option for me is to change the OEM HU to something else, as OEM HU does not have line level out.

If I go with a different HU which supports line level output, does this amp ( Cerwin Vega HED 600.4 ) support line level input ?. I am a noob in ICE guys forgive me if my terminology is wrong anywhere :) .

Quote:

* Running 4 ohm speakers in parallel probably driving the amp at theoretical 2 ohms. This would definitely increase the THD.
Spot on sir, this is what the problem is as explained earlier ( Both front comps and rear coaxials are running off front channel )

Quote:

My suggestion if you can is to

* Replace the stereo with a Kenwood 8016 model. Because what you need is a proper tuning and expandibility
I am perfectly fine to change it to Kenwood 8016, but someone told me that Clarion makes more sense and is a VFM.

Guys need advice here, given a choice between Kenwood 8016 and Clarion CZ702 ( http://www.clarion.com/us/en/product...559424064.html ), what would you go with ?.

Quote:

Remember! When your sub plays if there is any rattling or resonance from the trunk it will spoil any stage and image you can gain by TA.
Again spot on sir, I made all my EQ to negative and If I play around below 0 levels of EQ, It gives a lot better sound and feels more like coming from the front. Any solution to this sub issue would be appreciated.

Quote:

Originally Posted by linuxmanju (Post 3133984)
... Rear Hertz Coaxials and Front GTO components both are driven by the front channel only ( Tell me guys, am I assuming correctly that this is where the actual problem is or at least 80% of it ? ) ...

Good God, didn't anticipate this. Hare Ram!!! Which installer had installed your system in Bangalore? Both the front and rear speakers are getting the same power. Forget tuning, since this system cannot be tuned *holding head in hands*
A. I would expect the sound image to be on or near your shoulders
B. Depending on whether the Hertz or the GTO is more sensitive, the sound will be slightly to the front or behind. That is, if the Hertz is more sensitive, you will hear the rear louder

Quote:

Originally Posted by linuxmanju (Post 3133984)
... 2) Sub is bridged and connected to rear channel from the amp. ...

This is correct

Quote:

Originally Posted by linuxmanju (Post 3133984)
... 3) Can't wire rear speakers directly from HU as HU has only two channel output ( Front and Rear ). ...

*Of course* you can. If there is no OE provision already, the installer can route wires to the connector at the back of the HU.

And, @linuxmanju, in 2 channel output, Front has L and R output, and Rear also has L and R output. There are 4 outputs physically. When you get a chance, look at the diagram on the sticker on top of the HU.

Quote:

Originally Posted by linuxmanju (Post 3133984)
... So, Only option for me is to change the OEM HU to something else, as OEM HU does not have line level out. ...

One uses an LoC (Line Output Converter) for doing this - one end goes to Speaker Out on HU, other end has RCA sockets.

Quote:

Originally Posted by linuxmanju (Post 3133984)
... If I go with a different HU which supports line level output, does this amp ( Cerwin Vega HED 600.4 ) support line level input ? ...

ALL amps have line level inputs terminated at RCA sockets (to connect to conventional Pre Out from HU). Some amps additionally support High Level Inputs (essentially these have LoC built-in), since many OE HUs don't have conventional Pre-outs.

Quote:

Originally Posted by linuxmanju (Post 3133984)
... Guys need advice here, given a choice between Kenwood 8016 and Clarion CZ702 ...

Difficult to choose, since the feature set is very close. Personally I would choose the Kenwood, as it sounds sweeter than a Clarion (haven't hear CZ702).

Quote:

Originally Posted by DerAlte (Post 3134048)
B. Depending on whether the Hertz or the GTO is more sensitive, the sound will be slightly to the front or behind. That is, if the Hertz is more sensitive, you will hear the rear louder

Thanks mate, I could not have worded it any better. This precisely what my problem is. Feels like someone is following me with an orchestra. Initially I thought heartz speakers are too bright in the rear.

So as a stopgap solution, can I disconnect rear speakers altogether till I sort this HU thing ?. Right now it is unbearable.

Quote:

And, @linuxmanju, in 2 channel output, Front has L and R output, and Rear also has L and R output. There are 4 outputs physically. When you get a chance, look at the diagram on the sticker on top of the HU.
So basically in my new HU, I have to look for 6 channel pre outs ( two for front, two for rear and other two for sub ). Is my understanding correct mate ?.

Quote:

Difficult to choose, since the feature set is very close. Personally I would choose the Kenwood, as it sounds sweeter than a Clarion (haven't hear CZ702).
Thanks mate, Kenwood it is then.

Quote:

Originally Posted by linuxmanju (Post 3134106)
... So as a stopgap solution, can I disconnect rear speakers altogether till I sort this HU thing ?. Right now it is unbearable. ...

Sure. You might have to raise the amp front channels gain a wee bit after that.

Quote:

Originally Posted by linuxmanju (Post 3134106)
... So basically in my new HU, I have to look for 6 channel pre outs ( two for front, two for rear and other two for sub ). Is my understanding correct mate ?....

Correct. Though one can use a 2 Pre-out HU without problems, the independent Sub-out in a 3 Pre-out HU allows better control in tuning the system well.

Quote:

Originally Posted by eagle_bush (Post 3133983)
May be a naïve question, but I was wondering how much RMS power would the OEM speaker wires be able to handle?

Will they suffice if we use a 4 channel amplifier rated up to 75W RMS ?

Yes. Dont worry about this. Most speaker wire is more than adequate.

Quote:

Originally Posted by linuxmanju (Post 3134106)
So as a stopgap solution, can I disconnect rear speakers altogether till I sort this HU thing ?. Right now it is unbearable.

So basically in my new HU, I have to look for 6 channel pre outs ( two for front, two for rear and other two for sub ). Is my understanding correct mate ?.

Usually when there is a 4 channel HU the installer fades the sub along with the rear speakers.


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