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Took delivery of my Maruti Suzuki Baleno on 9th December. Had opted for 200.3 140W Active Subwoofer from Hertz and 4 component speakers. However, the subwoofer sounds a bit odd. The bass is always too high and there are no dials behind the subwoofer for me to adjust it. The manual given has shown some dials on the backside, but there are none on the one installed in my car. Funny thing is, the subwoofer model mentioned is exactly the same - 200.3. Can anyone help me out with this?

Check if your head unit offers an option to adjust subwoofer level.
From what I remember, hertz amps sold as OE maruti parts had the level knobs covered with a warranty sticker ( to prevent people from blowing them up I guess)

I've got none. Just a phase button with 0-180 written on it. I think I'll have to visit Nexa again :deadhorse

I have recently bought myself a used Subaru Forester in WRX Blue (can't help but shout that out :D ) it is currently going through a thorough mechanical inspection and overhaul. I plan on using this car as my daily driver so no stone is going to be left unturned (chose to buy this over a new car so budget permits a lot of love) apart from mechanical, cosmetical and interior restoration of the car, since I want to use this as my daily driver and I have to admit I have been spoilt by a lot of the features on new cars, I thought it best to splurge on a good entertainment setup. I want to be able to use an old iPad mini as the screen with which I interface with the whole system (parking camera, phone and sound settings) is this possible? Also apart from powerful and smooth sound which I will be expecting to play all the rap, pop, alt rock songs that usually fill up my playlists, I also want a nice detailed surround sound experience.

These are the items I am planning on buying first:

Pioneer DEH-80PRS - this deck seems to be a fair bit advanced with 3 burr brown DACs, time allignment, and advanced crossover adjustment settings, 16 band equalizer, 3 crossover levels for highs mids and lows respectively (reading from the specs as I have no idea about all of this). Will this be a useful addition or are all these settings not needed?

iPad Mini 2nd Gen - anybody know what all is possible to be integrated with the ipad, is this addition going to dilute my music listening experience, is it just a big touchscreen or can it be used to mirror maps, display parking camera, adjust sound etc.?

Morel Tempo Ultra 2 way component speakers - For the front, any other alternatives I should consider?

Polk DB651 round coaxials - For the rear doors to fill in sound, again should I consider something else?

An old Pioneer Champion series 12" subwoofer in a very well made ported enclosure that I have had for years and never felt lacking

Rockford Fosgate PUNCH P1000X5 5 channel amp - thought it'd be more economical to buy a single 5 channel amp rather than multiple amps

Is there anything I am missing here? Are there any other permutations and combinations that I ought to try to get what I am looking for? Experts please help!

Thanks in advance

How much are you paying for that amp. For 20k or so you can get a monoblock and a 4 channel amp from Kenwood or Pioneer.

Guys, attached photo is the antenna adapter for aftermarket HU.

My installer connected this without the blue wire being connected to anything. And my reception is poorer than the stock HU.

Can help me with details to where the blue wire needs to be connected?



Car in question : Swift/Ciaz
HU : Pineer F80bt

Thanks in advance :)

I believe it is used to trigger motorized antenna functions, which your stock antenna wouldn't have

But the stock wiring which comes from the antenna has two wires, that is why the confusion.

Can you post a picture of the antenna connectors?

Some antennas have inbuilt signal booster and for that you need to supply +12 V. The blue wire does that. Even if you don't have the signal booster, you can connect the blue wire to the ACC wire (I think the red wire) connected to the HU. No harm there.

Hello BHPians,

Recently i changed the headunit (RCD510) in my Vento to Kenwood Excelon DDX594 bought from US. I am facing a problem with the Random function. When i select Random (All), the songs are random but the song sequence is always same. This bug is quite irritating as i love to hear songs in random but has to hear the same sequence. Also, in Random mode it does not allow me to go back to the previous track and it only allows me to go to next track.

My old VW headunit did a great job in shuffling the songs in that the sequence is never the same.

Has anyone faced similar issue and found any workaround?

Hello,

Update to my earlier post:

I did a firmware update later and though the update did not mention this specific issue, the problem is resolved. Seems like Kenwood has taken note of it. Now the "Random" function is really "Random" :)

Hello members,
Need some help with a basic ICE install on my Eon.

1) I will be using a solid MDF wooden plank as parcel tray which will have provisions for two 6x9 ovals (won't be placing speakers in that space though). Is it fine if the amplifier is mounted/bolted on to the underside of this tray? Will upside down position cause excess heating or something?

2) If the above is not advisable, can we directly bolt the amplifier in the rear seatback?

3) Is it necessary to lay RCAs and power/ground/REM wires on different sides of the car? I didn't face any issues running everything from the same side in my other car (with same amplifier).

4) What would be the approx. length of speaker wire needed? Components in front doors, amplifier and subwoofer in the boot.

5) I was told by an installer that coaxials (6.5" door mount) can get fried up if run via amplifier. How true is this if we feed 60w RMS power to a 40w RMS speaker? This is one of the reason I'm opting for components for the front.

Thanks in advance! :)

1) No you wont face any heating issues but it is not advisable as the rear deck is a less stable surface. Instead you can do what you suggested as your second option: bolt the amp the rear of the rear seats.

2) It is just nicer to separate your Power and RCA cables so that no EMI (electromagnetic induction) noise is created in the RCA cables.

3) For length of speaker wire from the Head Unit to the rear deck i estimate as car length + 50%. So if you have a 4m car, you will need about 6m of wire. The wire can then be comfortably routed under the floor mats etc, without risk of running short.

4) Your coaxials will do just fine. There are greater chances of damaging your tweeters by using too SMALL an amplifier than too BIG an amplifier. This is because a smaller amp is more likely to clip (creating square waves and a lot of high frequency energy) than a bigger amp.

Hope this helps.

Hi Navin, thanks for your inputs! :)

Is it bolted directly to the back of the rear seat or a wooden plank is fixed on which the amp is bolted? Asking because in my other car, the amp was rather crudely bolted directly on the back of the rear seat with long self-tapping screws. I used to think these screws would pierce the seat foam and prick someone's back someday. stupid:

While we are at it, let me ask one more thing. Are Y-splitters recommended (to connect HU to amp) to split output from 2 RCA connectors to 4 channels on the amp? Or using two separate RCA cables is a better option? I guess I won't be able to use FADER settings in Option 1.

Using a wood base plank is advisable. This makes the amp easily removable too.

Why use a Y splitter if the HU has 4 RCA outs?

If the HU has only 2 RCA outs and you want to send that signal to 4 channels of amplification you have no choice but to use a splitter. But you will lose the ability to fade between the front and rear channels if you use a Y splitter.