Team-BHP - Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q!

Quote:

Originally Posted by singh.b86 (Post 5453950)

If that is the light that shows up on the tachometer, then probably your car is unable to communicate with the chip inside the key fob, due to which authentication doesn't happen and it prevents itself from cranking.

This could only be caused due to low battery of the key fob which might need replacing and shouldn't cost more than 100-200 bucks if you do it on your own.

If the problem still persists, then visit a FNG who can plug in a scanner onto the car and see what the problem is.

Thanks, was able to change the battery as I had Maxwell CR2032 lying around with me. Hopefully the issue with cranking the engine wouldn't resurface.

Quote:

Originally Posted by govigov (Post 5378785)

Gurus,

Any recommendations for silk based cones in the component system in the 5.25 or 6 inch range? I can see most are poly-propylene and paper based cones.

As far as I know silk in a woofer/ midrange cone is pretty exotic because Paper and plastic (and sometimes metal) are best for woofers because you need stiffness. Silk is mostly used for tweeter domes.

Just replaced the OEM Stereo with Sony AX5500 along with amp & speaker installation. Now I can enjoy the audio.
But I am noticing that the stereo switches on as soon as ignition or ACC is turned on, despite the stereo turned off previously by either using the power-off or screen-off, as shown below :unhappy

The OEM stereo had a separate control to power on/off. With this missing in the new head unit, I am wondering if it will cause transient load on the battery everytime I turn on the ignition.
Is there a way to work around this, or is it okay to let it be as it is?

I have been looking to improve sound quality in my Seltos' Bose system. 1st stage of upgrade by damping the doors and boot. I have detailed the experience in DIY section https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/diy-d...ml#post5446119.

Now the 2nd part comes. Upgrade the front staging by replacing built-in Bose components (keeping built-in Bose amplifier). As I mentioned in my post, I am happy with improvement I got with bass and mid with stock speakers; however, it's not bright/warm enough and it's bass heavy. So my requirement is to improve the high frequencies without sacrificing the mid and bass. As I am going to be using Bose amplifier I guess any speaker with 50-90 watt and 4 ohm should be good. Also is it possible to upgrade only tweeter and get result what I am looking for?

Though I understand that it is advisable to audition and decide, but I would like some opinion about different 2 way components available (budget max 15000 for a pair; available in Bangalore) which do justice to all the frequencies in general. That means has balance between high mid and low frequencies. Possibly a comparison if anyone has experience with multiple options which you feel suit my ask.

Or any specific suggestion based on my car, its setup etc.

Quote:

Originally Posted by dipdawiz (Post 5461717)

The individual components of OEM car systems are integrated into each other, often to smooth over defects. For example, if the OEM speakers are deficient in the bass, there might be a significant bass boost in the OEM amplifier/HU to compensate.

Replacing one component of an OEM system without considering what the others do might lead to unsatisfactory results. For example, in the example provided above, if you replaced the speakers with more bass than the OEM speakers, you might find that you now have too much bass (since the bass in the OEM amplifier/HU is boosted).

In other words, proceed with caution, taking into account the above.

Find an installer that is aware of the OEM system.

Quote:

Originally Posted by navin (Post 5461899)

Agreed. So in reality I might have to look for a speaker which is biased towards mid and high, so that it balanced out on a bass heavy setup.

Seltos' Bose speakers, as I already told is bass heavy. Before damping, Low and Mid was so all over the place, that voice was not clear at all and everything is thumping. However, after damping now I feel there is a balance between Mid and Low, voices are clear (so much so that I could not believe) while bass delivered better (for the speaker). But there is no improvement with high. In infotainment system it comes with 3 band equalizer, in my case its set +4 for both Low and Mid, but +10 for high. Still it feels missing many times (to some extent, could be due to my aging ears).

Hence my quest to improve it. And hence one of my questions was, whether only tweeter can be upgraded to balance that. As you can figure, I am quite satisfied with existing OEM system in place. Something like this JBL https://www.amazon.in/dp/B01EIQZBEQ/. However options for tweeter only upgrade is very less online. Are they available offline stores?

Secondly, the issue is to find a good installer or option where a demo can be done in the car and decide accordingly.

Quote:

Originally Posted by dipdawiz (Post 5461975)

Agreed. So in reality I might have to look for a speaker which is biased towards mid and high, so that it balanced out on a bass heavy setup.

I was just giving a hypothetical example of bass-deficient speakers being compensated by a bass boost in the head unit/amplifier.

If you want to retain your OEM head unit, you may need to install a DSP to undo all the processing in the OEM HU and apply fresh processing. Check out the links below.

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/car-e...t-version.html

https://www.minidsp.com/products/car-audio-dsp

These DSPs do more than just EQ. They can offer time alignment so that the sound from the rear speakers and front speakers reaches the listener at about the same time.

Hello experts, need an advice related to my Figo's existing 8yr old ICE setup. The setup is basically a 4 channel ground zero amp fed by stock HU hi level signals with 2 channels (CH1/2) driving the components on the front, and 2 channels (CH3/4) bridged to drive a sealed 10inch sub. Rear door speakers are directly hooked to HU and just fill in of sorts.

Since last few months I had been getting lot of random static from the front left door speakers. It has no connection to volume, or input signal. Just comes and goes randomly at different volumes something like sparking or cracking. INitially I thought it was a wiring issue and I opened door to check all connections and issue didnt go away. Today I swapped the speaker connections at the amp and basically root caused the problem to the CH1 output of the amp. The moment amp gets powered it starts to give static on that channel randomly. Possible some component issue on the inside.

Since Figo is our 2nd car and sparingly used after my wife stopped working, the only time its used is pickup/drop of my daughter from school which is less than a km away. I am not too keen on spending time for getting amp fixed or getting a new one. I see 2 easy options for the time being.

Option 1 ( what I did for now) - Short Channel - 2 output to both front components and live with mono output on the front. Livable solution for the time being and limited effort. Any amp concerns with this?

Option 2 - Use good channel 3 and 4 currently bridged for sub to drive the front components and use good CHannel2 for the sub. I understand the power to drive might be lesser for sub but I am no bass head and as long as I get a good foundation, it should be ok. This allows proper stereo sound stage on front with ok sub output. Thoughts on this option? any concerns again with driving single CH to sub?

can't the Stock HU's outputs be used to drive the comps?

I would prefer getting the amp repaired, It's the cheapest solution.
there seem to be several decent places in blore, Google tends to point me towards a "sight n sound car audio clininc" in BTM Layout. If you dont want to bother going, may be worth exploring dunzoing it to them!

option 1 - Is a single channel of your amp stable at 2 ohms (check the amp spec) if yes you are good. if not, dont turn up the vol too much
Yes Option 2 is better, but with reduced bass (and from one channel only)

Quote:

Originally Posted by supertinu (Post 5466227)

Since last few months I had been getting lot of random static from the front left door speakers. It has no connection to volume, or input signal. Just comes and goes randomly at different volumes something like sparking or cracking. Initially I thought it was a wiring issue and I opened door to check all connections and issue didnt go away.

Though not the static noise but faced similar issue in one of the speaker in my car going on and off randomly and producing very thin and low sound. The issue remained for long time despite my tries of fixing it many times.

Later one day the issue went off when wires were reconnected with the amp during headunit replacement. Though re-connections did not work earlier when I tried many a times, not sure what exactly fixed it. I guess it was issue with the wire which got fixed during pealing off and making new connections.

Or maybe some moisture got collected in one of the connection over the time and it got dried up when the car was parked in sunlight for the whole day with open boot during the headunit replacement. Now the amp and speakers are working fine since then.

Quote:

Originally Posted by supertinu (Post 5466227)

Option 1 ( what I did for now) - Short Channel - 2 output to both front components and live with mono output on the front. Livable solution for the time being and limited effort. Any amp concerns with this?

No, please don't do that for the sake of music.

Instead feed the front speakers using the working stereo channels (3/4) of the amp and try to bridge the faulty channels and feed the sub. If goes well then you are lucky, if not then get a monoblock for the sub.

If not willing to spend money then remove the sub and set the crossover to full range for the front speakers, that will be enough for sparingly used car. That way you will have a bigger boot for groceries and shopping.

Quote:

Originally Posted by greenhorn (Post 5466475)

Condor, are those comps or coax?

If you're looking at getting something locally let your ears be the judge.

@Greenhorn, have components at front.

Trying to keep things simple:
1. it's a speaker swap, hence I dont expect the response at the shops to be keen.
2. Listening to decide is tricky, as I have seen twice before. Hence the request here for suggestions on brand to go for.

3. I may not even touch the tweeter + cross over, but just change the 6.5". (Get the components, but use only the speaker)
( Call me crazy or lazy - I want decent sound, but am beyond that point to get an audio enthusiast's setup :) )

Quote:

Originally Posted by condor (Post 5466400)

I have Diamond Audio speakers in my Storme. One of the front speakers has conked out (torn), and need to replace this.

What would be a good replacement 6.5" speakers ? Plan to change both the front speakers. I have a 4-channel amp that drives these.

You can look at diyaudiocart website for the midbass or woofers. You can even find some speakers with durable aluminum cones. Check the specs, impedance, audio frequency measurements and dimensions and get the one which matches in your existing component setup.