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-   -   Ford Fiesta S: Eclipse, XBL2 and NOW WITH HORNS! (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/car-entertainment/65800-ford-fiesta-s-eclipse-xbl2-now-horns-3.html)

Hey Frank, that's a real nice way to test your system. Infected Mushroom is great when it comes to testing the system. Even i did the same when i got my ID sub, i tested it with Suprivisior and Becoming Insane.

Hi piyush. thanks a million. I see your system is shaping up to be pretty neat by itself. please do open a thread once everything is finalized and bought.
As for the fuse and fuse block, I was sent one for free by a gentleman from Faridabad. You can use a 150 A fuse WITHOUT worrying. These are available in the market. Also, the wire is also available freely in the market.
if you can't find these, then buy the Ground Zero PK50 kit which comes with zero gauge wire and 200A fuse!

Heheh. i downloaded those songs too. Will test them soon. Waiting for the damn sub to open up clap:

Thank you Thank you Thank you !:uncontrol (posting daily to remind frank)..

Franky, atlast the long waiting on the PIN has ended ! Congratulations and would not want to miss the audition part when I come to Mumbai in December (wife's family is in Andheri - 7 bunglows).

Frankly speaking in frank's thread, I havent had the opportunity to audition a single car which is tastefully done other than the usual DINCHAK that comes cheaper. I know its a sad situation. Probably that is keeping me away from any major ICE upgrades so far. Very anxiously waiting to hear some quality ICE ! :thumbs up

Thanks frank bro. I am in process on finding things and increasing my knowledge about a D.I.Y setup here. Will open up a new thread once i have something substantial in my hands. Loved to get an audition from you. bt i am far away. :)

Truly Dedicated Sound System...

everyone starts somewhere. its never too late to start. audition some systems and start off with a DIY project ;-)

I would love to see how your equipment is turning out!

cheers mate!

i Have already ordered the Clarion DPX11551 and RCA Cables from KMD.
Looking for a 2 or 4 channel amp as still confused about going passive or active.

Precision Power 356cs have already been ordered via Ebay global. got a deal cheaper than KMD or Fizzmal(Cheaper by atleast 1.5k)

Waiting for a new dose of vitamin M in October for Peerless SLS 6.5.

Still confused about HU b/w Pioneer P800prs or Eclipse 7200 MK II:Frustrati

Frank hearty congrats.
I wish I could listen or atleast see your car for once.

Commendable work done by the installer. So so neat.
Any reason on why the crossovers was kept at the bottom and rather not on the top.

I think thats for a neat stealth look.

Best of luck with your endavour, Piyush! Do keep up updated. If I were you, I would look at the Alpine CDA-9887 too!


thank you sir.
As for the crossovers, I was asked by the technician, and he said it's better if they are placed lower, since wire management would be better. Also, the guys at Ford might just get confused looking at so much equipment. So what better thing to do, than to hide a few things!


Cheers. Will take photos at night in a few days, too, to show you'll how cool it looks with the bright blue light of the Clarion Amp!

Nice 2 questions?

Isnt there any other locations where tweeters can be better integrated or hidden? along with the wiring.

How are the sub enclosure attached, is it easy to remove? I see them covering the RT side shockie access.

The stock location for the tweeter is in the sail panel. The stock tweeters were present there, and the Alpine tweeter can fit into the panel easily. But, the sail panel has a very small opening (grille) which will totally impede the sound coming from the tweeter. Hence the decision to make the pods. Would have loved to keep the stock positions, but the tweeters would be off-axis on both sides, and it is a well known fact that the Alpine SPX-17PRO ring radiator has poor dispersion, and hence needs to be placed on -axis for better performance.

As for the sub enclosure, it is not removable easily, since it has been secured by 3 L-brackets at 3 different locations, to prevent toppling because of the heavy weight of the subwoofer which is projecting outwards. Also, a non secured enclosure might cause unruly vibrations/resonance with the amount of power on tap.
But provisions have been made to facilitate easy removal of the spare wheel. Right side shock access has been blocked, but the L-brackets can be easily removed and the enclosure can be placed back after work on the suspension.
The same brackets need to be screwed back.

Ok but for tweeter frequency does the small opening really matter? Ok am dumbo with ICE WISE ok! :p about the ring thing, cant they be removed (cover part)? Again dumb dumb questions please excuse.

Another option i see is, cutting hole on the pillars plastic trims and make em kinda flush mount. Dont think the plastics will be that costly, so you can buy 2 and experiment and keep the factory fresh stacked safe, what say?

The small opening can affect the performance of the tweeter, and can also resonate at higher frequencies, causing irritation to the ears. I am not too sure about this, but this is the most obvious reason to not mount them in the sail panels.
didn't get the question, sorry. are you talking about the ring radiator?

about the flush mount, I seriously havent given much thought to it. The pods are yet to be designed, and we might be able to do the flush mount thing too ;-)

a ring radiator is not a dome. It has a very different dispersion pattern from a dome and maybe this is why some of them are not well liked. I tested a early gerneation ring radiator (some moons back) against the Morel Supreme and 9900 and did not like them. I am told the new SS versions are far better.

Frank, I dont know what the OD of the flange on your tweeters is like but you should copy the pods that I got made (not the version you seen) a few months ago. I think the pods are killer. They look so stock that you cant tell they are not OEM. "The Cowherd" can do good work. :-)