[zerocritical]

Hey guys,

My friend needs an audio system for his new swift. He is planning to get the following:
1. Alpine Head unit
2. 4-channel amp - 2channels for front comps and bridged mode for sub
3. 6 inch front comps
4. 12 inch Sub
5. Wiring kit

Pls suggest the models and brands best suited in the budget of 30-35k including installation.

Cheers,
ZC

[NOS Power]

Please also tell us what type of music does he listen mostly, and would he prefer bright sounds or laid back.

[zerocritical]

Originally Posted by NOS Power

Please also tell us what type of music does he listen mostly

Hip-Hop.. R&B and Bollywood..

[zerocritical]

Still waiting for input guys...

Was just thinking of the amp.. should he go for 2 amps (one mono and one 2 channel) or a single 4 channel amp?

[jkdas]

A good Alpine HU will cost you 25k IIRC.

I would suggest that you get the base HU whic has 3 pair pre-amp out (MUST)
A decent 6 inch compo will cist from 5.5k upwards. Check threads here to see what fits your budget.

A four channel amp! emm, 5k and up. Spend a decent 8k -12k for a good four channel amp. Kenwood seems to be a fav these days.

Sub; well, get one

Wiring, 3-5k for a decent install which should be future proof. I would also suggest damping for Swift.

[zerocritical]

Thanks for the reply.

Lets take this one by one:

First lets start with head unit.
If alpine HU is not an option (Too expensive), the next best I can think of is Pioneer HU.

Can pls suggest a HU which has the following:
3 pre amp outs
Support for iPod and USB
Time allignment

[zerocritical]

Here is the price break up that I was thinking of:

Head Unit: around: 10k
Comps: 6k
Sub with enclosure: 5-6k
Amp: 8k
Wiring and install: 3k

Still did not take damping into consideration as it would cost around 6k more.. Will do that if budget permits now.. if not that will be done at a later stage.

[thelord]

Pioneer makes some great HUs. But for a budget < 15 k, I'd recommend a Kenwood HU.

Head Unit: Kenwood X7016 (3 X 4V preouts, TA, iPod direct control)
Comps: Bull Audio, Illusion Audio, DLS C6A
Sub with enclosure: Bull Audio or Blaupunkt gtw1200 (if you don't want an SPL sub)
Amp: Kenwood 8405
Wiring and install: Get JBL/Bull original wiring kit. Scosche RCAs are most VFM in my opinion.

And yes, for a swift, I'd really recommend atleast 3-4 k for damping the front doors. Damping makes a huge amount of difference to the sound.

[raj_5004]

look at PIO 7150 & 5190-
Car Audio

comps-
Illusion EL 6.1
Hermit Audio Pvt. Ltd.

i would spend a bit less on amp (5-6k) & spend that money on the sub (8k)
amp-
India JBL

sub-
Hermit Audio Pvt. Ltd.

[zerocritical]

Originally Posted by thelord

Pioneer makes some great HUs. But for a budget < 15 k, I'd recommend a Kenwood HU.

I think even the lower end - mid range versions of pioneers are also pretty good. I may be wrong. I heard a Kenny HU and pioneer HU comparison with rest all same and was not much impressed with kenny when compared to pioneer. But thats again my opinion. Will ask my friend to audition both.

Originally Posted by thelord

Head Unit: Kenwood X7016 (3 X 4V preouts, TA, iPod direct control)
Comps: Bull Audio, Illusion Audio, DLS C6A
Sub with enclosure: Bull Audio or Blaupunkt gtw1200 (if you don't want an SPL sub)
Amp: Kenwood 8405
Wiring and install: Get JBL/Bull original wiring kit. Scosche RCAs are most VFM in my opinion.

Thanks for the suggestions. I have never heard Bull comps and sub. will audition that once.

Originally Posted by thelord

And yes, for a swift, I'd really recommend atleast 3-4 k for damping the front doors. Damping makes a huge amount of difference to the sound.

Hmm. Will get only the front doors damped instead all the doors and boot.

Originally Posted by raj_5004

look at PIO 7150 & 5190-
Car Audio

Thanks for the suggestions Raj. Do these models have TA as well?

Originally Posted by raj_5004

comps-
Illusion EL 6.1
Hermit Audio Pvt. Ltd.

I had that in my car too.

Originally Posted by raj_5004

i would spend a bit less on amp (5-6k) & spend that money on the sub (8k)
amp-
India JBL

sub-
Hermit Audio Pvt. Ltd.

The amp has a rating of 70x4 at 4 ohms.. so in bridged mode it will shell out 140RMS to the sub. But the sub is rated at 400RMS at 4ohms. Doesnt that mean that the sub is not being played at its full potential?

[navin]

Originally Posted by zerocritical

The amp has a rating of 70x4 at 4 ohms.. so in bridged mode it will shell out 140RMS to the sub. But the sub is rated at 400RMS at 4ohms. Doesnt that mean that the sub is not being played at its full potential?

What you should consider is the sensitivy of the subwoofer (with box and cabin gain). Wattage is hardly an indicator of how well the sub will perform with a particular amp. Sensitivity and frequency response are better indicators.

[Invinsible]

Originally Posted by navin

What you should consider is the sensitivy of the subwoofer (with box and cabin gain). Wattage is hardly an indicator of how well the sub will perform with a particular amp. Sensitivity and frequency response are better indicators.

+1
Adding to that wrong enclosure size or construction could make things worst.

[zerocritical]

Originally Posted by navin

What you should consider is the sensitivy of the subwoofer (with box and cabin gain). Wattage is hardly an indicator of how well the sub will perform with a particular amp. Sensitivity and frequency response are better indicators.

Can someone pls give me a link where i can read more about Sensitivity and frequency response and understand that better.

[thelord]

Originally Posted by zerocritical

Thanks for the suggestions. I have never heard Bull comps and sub. will audition that once.

I heard the Bull Comps recently. They were running on a Kenwood HU (6539) and a Blaupunkt Amp (GTA Special MKII) and they were really nice. A sweet mix of mid-bass/mid-range and highs. The best part is they are totally neutral to all three but yes, do lose out a bit on the detailing. Best VFM comps imo, under 6k.

Originally Posted by zerocritical

The amp has a rating of 70x4 at 4 ohms.. so in bridged mode it will shell out 140RMS to the sub. But the sub is rated at 400RMS at 4ohms. Doesnt that mean that the sub is not being played at its full potential?

If the amp is 70*4 at 4 ohms, then the bridged output should be ~ 210 RMS [ (70X4) X (3/4) ] This should be more than sufficient for in-car-entertainment.