[althaaf]

Hi friends,
As many of you know, i took delivery of a new jetta few days back. it has got a decent ice set up with 2 components in the front, 2 in the back door, and 2 extra tweeters on the front A pillar. Even though its giving good sound quality, am inclined to put one additional sub woofer in the boot to compensate low frequency punch, but at the same time am scared if it will spoil any warranty. I don't want to take any risk regarding warranty/guarantee, but at the same time keep a sub woofer. My installer told we can loop rear speaker wire if present in the parcel try area, but for power supply we ll have to run separate wire from the battery.

What am planning is a system which can be removed when needed completely before going for service or other matters. My installer told, it will be difficult to remove all the wires fully without leaving any trace if it is coming from the battery.
Now my doubts are, is there any way i can do it without leaving any trace after removing all wires?
There is a 12v power outlet in the car boot, is it not possible to power the amp from this supply?
Is there any alternate method?

Thanks a lot in advance to all.

[althaaf]

More than 90 views, but no replies! Gurus, please help.

Am desperate to know some method and add a sub woofer to complete the sound staging.

Thanks.

[shuvc]

I wonder if that outlet would be able to support the current draw required by an amp driving a sub. Changing the fuse for that outlet might help. Just my wild thoughts! Wait for the gurus to comment.

[althaaf]

Originally Posted by shuvc

I wonder if that outlet would be able to support the current draw required by an amp driving a sub. Changing the fuse for that outlet might help. Just my wild thoughts! Wait for the gurus to comment.

Thanks buddy,
But changing fuse alone will help? Will the wiring be strong enough? I mean will it be of enough gauge?
Waiting for more gurus like you to comment

[St. Anger]

Originally Posted by althaaf

Hi friends,
As many of you know, i took delivery of a new jetta few days back. it has got a decent ice set up with 2 components in the front, 2 in the back door, and 2 extra tweeters on the front A pillar. Even though its giving good sound quality, am inclined to put one additional sub woofer in the boot to compensate low frequency punch, but at the same time am scared if it will spoil any warranty. I don't want to take any risk regarding warranty/guarantee, but at the same time keep a sub woofer. My installer told we can loop rear speaker wire if present in the parcel try area, but for power supply we ll have to run separate wire from the battery.

What am planning is a system which can be removed when needed completely before going for service or other matters. My installer told, it will be difficult to remove all the wires fully without leaving any trace if it is coming from the battery.
Now my doubts are, is there any way i can do it without leaving any trace after removing all wires?
There is a 12v power outlet in the car boot, is it not possible to power the amp from this supply?
Is there any alternate method?

Thanks a lot in advance to all.

Hi Althaaf,

Congratulations buddy, wish you a happy time with your new ride .

Most regular builds should not cause any damage, either to the car or to the equipment. A competent installer who will use the necessary connectors and proper fuses should easily be able to keep the warranty intact. Some integrated HU's do not come with any on-board pre-outs to connect additional amplifiers, required to power the sub-woofer. If this is true in the case of your HU, then i would suggest you the following:


Budget around 12-13k for the install. Select a four channel amp that supports speaker level inputs - around 6.5k for the amp. Next hunt for a subwoofer available around the 3.5k mark. Usual options available at these price points would be offerings from JBL, Bull Audio, Kenwood, Pioneer, JVC. The balance 3k should cover your wiring and labour. Select what suits your ears best. Bridge two channels to run the sub and wire the front speakers to the remaining two channels and you should be set.

The suggestions by your installer sound too crude to me to risk it with a new car. It would be good if you get yourself a competent installer, who will handle your car with care. For the rest of the queries, the experts should be around soon to help.

Good luck

[navin]

Originally Posted by althaaf

What am planning is a system which can be removed when needed completely before going for service or other matters.

Why do you need to do this.

If the correct harneses are used (in your ase since you have not changing the HU you wont need this) you are not voiding any warranty.

While you can build a system that is totally and quickly removeable (say if you need the extra space for bags) using Neutrik connectors for example; I would suggest that you locate the amp in a discrete place and leave it in the car and only make provisions for the subwoofer to be removed. The amp does not take up much space. The subwoofer does.

[althaaf]

Originally Posted by St. Anger

Hi Althaaf,

Congratulations buddy, wish you a happy time with your new ride .

Most regular builds should not cause any damage, either to the car or to the equipment. A competent installer who will use the necessary connectors and proper fuses should easily be able to keep the warranty intact. Some integrated HU's do not come with any on-board pre-outs to connect additional amplifiers, required to power the sub-woofer. If this is true in the case of your HU, then i would suggest you the following:


Budget around 12-13k for the install. Select a four channel amp that supports speaker level inputs - around 6.5k for the amp. Next hunt for a subwoofer available around the 3.5k mark. Usual options available at these price points would be offerings from JBL, Bull Audio, Kenwood, Pioneer, JVC. The balance 3k should cover your wiring and labour. Select what suits your ears best. Bridge two channels to run the sub and wire the front speakers to the remaining two channels and you should be set.

The suggestions by your installer sound too crude to me to risk it with a new car. It would be good if you get yourself a competent installer, who will handle your car with care. For the rest of the queries, the experts should be around soon to help.

Good luck

woow, i loved your advice, perfect split up and budget.
Yea, my plan is not to spend more than 15k for entire setup. my installer quoted me these prices

boston 1300 watts sub woofer - 3500

kenwood 4 channel amp - 5800
(i don't remember exact output of this amp, i just know its the next model above kenwood 650watts 4 channel amp guess its 770 or something)

sub woofer box of the best quality made by some expert sound engineer - 2000
amp wiring kit jbl - 1900

And about the installer, he is the best available in our area, he works with all high end cars. Recently he changed bose speakers which came standard in a porsche to a higher model bose system. i mean to say he is efficient and people seems happy and confident with his work. in my case the issue is running a seperate power line from battery to amp, which will be going under the plastic pannel,s and all. in that case, removing it might cause problem everytime.

Originally Posted by navin

Why do you need to do this.

If the correct harneses are used (in your case since you have not changing the HU you wont need this) you are not voiding any warranty.

While you can build a system that is totally and quickly removeable (say if you need the extra space for bags) using Neutrik connectors for example; I would suggest that you locate the amp in a discrete place and leave it in the car and only make provisions for the subwoofer to be removed. The amp does not take up much space. The subwoofer does.

my installer told me that he will fix the amp on the sub box itself and then run the wires to the front. in this case, it will be easy to remove the box and amp together whenever we need extra space or when going for service.
and yes, the reason i wanted to remove the entire setup before going for service is cos, my dealer told if something goes wrong the service people might blame the amp set up and similar thing happened with one of my friends skoda which had amp etc and once the engine went to limping mode or something and service people told its because of amp ! he however managed to get the car serviced free but they told not to fix such things again.

[navin]

Originally Posted by althaaf

my dealer told if something goes wrong the service people might blame the amp set up and similar thing happened with one of my friends skoda which had amp.

I drive a Skoda and my wife has a Honda City and we have never had sub a problem with either Arya Honda or Autobahn Skoda. Anyways if you are3 comfortable with having the amp and sub mounted together feel free to do it. Ask your installer to use good quick release and lockable connectors like Neutrik though.