Team-BHP - Which AMP and Subwoofer for the Innova!!

there are a couple of ways to wire up a pair of drivers (in this case woofers). both woofers in phase and both woofers out of phase. These are called Bipole and Dipole. Each gives different bass character.

In addition to this if only one woofer is radiating to the outside world it is called Isobarik (meaning constant pressure).

Woofers can also mounted so that their magnets are phyically connected to each other this reduces some distortions (usually 2nd order) and reduces the stress on the woofer baffles. This is called Push-Push.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mclaren1885

the active sub that steeroid has is good actually.. The other day when he was in bangalore i was tweaking it and i found the bass to be quite good for a 8''.. However im not sure if its available here as of now .. If im not wrong that piece was picked up at dubai , isnt it steer uncle ..

I checked it out last day. Its damn small/compact. Couldnt 'play' with it .Maybe next time I will pump up to full vol and check it. ok Steer?

maybe I should get 2 of them for my car. and still I would ahev loooot if boot in my car.

MM, I thought we covered this over the phone. The Blau 8000 has limited SPL capability but it does a reasonably smooth job. I would recommend a box sub and a good amp dumping atleast 100W RMS.

Something on the lines of the JBL 1200B mated to the Sony 502 or JBL 60.2.

A tube sub is needed only if you need to remove it often as it is lighter than a box sub.

hi,,
innova is a very big car,, i would suggest you go in a minimum15" sub, i have tried it an innova,, it sounds great.. for your doors dynamat would do the job..
regards,
driven

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shan2nu

Our latest adition to the family....our Toyota Innova, has been installed with a Pioneer P6750 Mp3 player, stock Alpine speakers on the front doors and JBL - GTO506CS (165W) speakers on the back ones.

The problem i'm facing, is the rattling sound the door panels make when the "Bass" is increased. The absence of a subwoofer has converted the gap between the door and the door panel into a makeshift sound box, which really gets on my nerves when ever it begins to rattle.

What do you think would be the right AMP and Woofer combo for my setup?

Shan2nu

A passice radiator is basically a speaker cone that is not connected at all. If it is a passive radiator that is expressly built for that use, it will not have any electrical contacts, no magnet etc.
Think of it as a part of the cabinet that expands and contracts according to the air pressure inside the box.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steeroid

I thought it was 1, too - till the Blau guy told me it has two. He has allegedly set up the one at the bottom (facing the floor) to 'reverse' on the Head Unit. I saw the setting (Sub 2 on the HU, Sub 1 is set to 'normal') but cant figure how this works. I plan to change the mounting to set it up horizontally, that way it would work front and back.

Here are the specs, though I dont see two speakers written there...the rest of it is greek and latin to me.

ODsb 8000A active sub main features:
Active subwoofer with passive radiator technology in extremely compact enclosure
The easiest way to more bass - amplifier and speaker in a box!
Twin 200mm drive units using passive radiator technology
Powerful 140Watt Class 'D' amplifier
Efficiency 4 ohm

Ek hi sub hai yaar!

The other is a passive radiator. Just a diaphragm, so that the device adds some output due to another cone vibrating. That don't have no electrical input dude. So your installer can't set up like, sub1 in normal phase and sub2 in reverse phase. The 6750 probably has 2 subwoofer setting menus, where the 1st sub menu, sub1, is the one where you can switch the sub on/ off, and set the phase, and the second menu, sub2, is to adjust the cutoff frequency and level. It's not 2 independently controllable subwoofer pre-outs or something.