[condor]

Superb ! patience, patience, patience, and the willingness to go through the whole task of doing it ground-up. Hats off to you !

And I will be the second person to ask - will the hand brakes work ?

After the Disc+drum setup in the Sumo Victa, and now a 4-disc setup in the Storme, I think the Victa's handbrake worked much better than in the Storme. Do let us know on this aspect

[Reinhard]

Originally Posted by svsantosh

8mm mild steel plate ought to be enough, will eventually move to SS for more longevity.

Certainly, properly forged, high quality 8mm should certainly be enough.

Another noob question - if it's a load bearing area/part, would SS be the right choice? Doesn't it tend to be more brittle and prone to crack compared to MS?

[svsantosh]

Originally Posted by condor

And I will be the second person to ask - will the hand brakes work ?

After the Disc+drum setup in the Sumo Victa, and now a 4-disc setup in the Storme, I think the Victa's handbrake worked much better than in the Storme. Do let us know on this aspect

As I posted a hyundai parts screenshot in page 1, I need to source the OEM expanding shoe inside rotor disc setup found in rare Hyundai's in India. In hindsight Hyundai's were the only true technology car maker that gave some of the best cars to the masses in India. A decade ago they have rear discs with integral expanding shoes for hand brake. I need to decide whether I would do that or the below line lock which I did nearly a decade ago.

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/4x4-t...line-lock.html (DIY - Simple Hand brake for Jeeps - Ball Valve as a Line Lock)

To answer your victa - gravitas question....

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/4x4-v...ml#post2970000 (2000 Armada Grand 4WD)

.... I have done a line lock on the Armadas front disc brake (compared to ol' CJs front drum) man! the discs used to lock super perfect. I don't think the gravitas should have any issue at all. I would prefer the disc brake pad material over the softer drum brake shoe hands down.

Originally Posted by Reinhard

Certainly, properly forged, high quality 8mm shoukd certainly be enough.

Another noob question - if its a load bearing area/part, would SS be the right choice? Doesn't it tend to be more brittle and prone to crack compared to MS?

I did not use forged, its just hot rolled mild steel plate. On paper SS is as equal but better corrosion resistant than mild steel hence the idea. But I may never bother too.

[svsantosh]

About 2000Kms of it was on city roads, 7000Kms of it was on highways, 1000Kms up in the western ghats (Ooty )

No squeaks, sounds, Rattles, Basically no issues and complete peace of mind after a critical mod.

Cherry on the pastry was coming down ooty slopes and no indication of the brake fade, plus was a slightly increased braking confidence. Mind you this was a fully loaded car with 4 & 1/2 pax and max luggage and down slope for more than an hour.

Can say with confidence, go for it and its totally worth it. Maybe around 15K mark I will open her up and post a pic of the pads. I am in no mood to open up a perfectly working mod.

[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by svsantosh

About 2000Kms of it was on city roads, 7000Kms of it was on highways, 1000Kms up in the western ghats (Ooty )

No squeaks, sounds, Rattles, Basically no issues and complete peace of mind after a critical mod.

Cherry on the pastry was coming down ooty slopes and no indication of the brake fade, plus was a slightly increased braking confidence. Mind you this was a fully loaded car with 4 & 1/2 pax and max luggage and down slope for more than an hour.

Can say with confidence, go for it and its totally worth it. Maybe around 15K mark I will open her up and post a pic of the pads. I am in no mood to open up a perfectly working mod.

Since you have installed a front brake disc and rotor of i10, on the rear of your car, how much improvement in braking performance in terms of butt feel? How about high speed braking, say applying brakes at 100 kmph?

BTW, did you get the hand brake setup installed? If yes, please post the details. If not, how are you managing parking on inclined roads?

[svsantosh]

Originally Posted by sagarpadaki

Since you have installed a front brake disc and rotor of i10, on the rear of your car, how much improvement in braking performance in terms of butt feel? How about high speed braking, say applying brakes at 100 kmph?

The car stops at least a few seconds earlier during high speed stops, cannot say how much exactly though but definitely better.

BTW, did you get the hand brake setup installed? If yes, please post the details. If not, how are you managing parking on inclined roads?

Yep, I have a line lock installed on the rear right wheel, I only use it when the engine is running, say, long signal stops + Aircon, roadside stop with family inside car + Aircon while I step out. Otherwise, for engine stop parking I only slot in 1st gear and leave it.

[Indian2003]

Originally Posted by svsantosh

The car stops at least a few seconds earlier during high speed stops, cannot say how much exactly though but definitely better.

I see your rear calipers have 20 mm pistons. What is the diameter of the pistons on the front brakes? Does your car have a load sensing valve? How will you solve the issue with the handbrakes?
Had you used calipers from VAG cars, the handbrakes are built into the rear calipers. But then you will need a load sensing valve as the pistons are 38 mm.

My car has a 57 mm front pistons and 38 mm rear with handbrakes and load sensing valve. The rear wheels dont lock but if the car is loaded, the rear brakes activate earlier.

[sgiitk]

I will say a brave man. One thing not taken into account is the brake proportioning! the front/rear balance needs re-calibration. As pointed out at the beginning I will not risk this.

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by Indian2003

I
My car has a 57 mm front pistons and 38 mm rear with handbrakes and load sensing valve. The rear wheels dont lock but if the car is loaded, the rear brakes activate earlier.

Originally Posted by sgiitk

I will say a brave man. One thing not taken into account is the brake proportioning! the front/rear balance needs re-calibration. As pointed out at the beginning I will not risk this.

Brake proportioning is really important and is an integral part of any brake system. Apart from obvious, e.g. sizing of rotors/calipers/pads.drum there can be a few other components too; Proportioning valve A load sensing valve is a special version compared to a regular a brake proportioning valve. There are a number of different varieties and ways of implementing the respective function.

Although in essence its about the same thing; making sure the rear wheels always deliver less braking force then the front ones.

The load sensing valve, as the name suggest, senses the load on the rear wheels/axle. And adjust the front / rear brake balance. Heavier load, more rear brake. I now these get used on truck and small vans, I am not so sure if they are used on regular cars? In its simplest form, it literally just senses the rear axle and or spring being compressed more due to load.

A brake proportioning valve is used to fine tune the balance between front and rear brakes. Not sure how much these are still used? With the more sophisticated ABS brake system the front / rear balancing is done by the ABS system and you won’t find a brake proportioning valve. They are typically set to a specific value and should not require any maintenance.

I am not sure how modern load sensing valve work in conjunction with ABS? Maybe just an electronic measuring of the ride height as input to the ABS?

My Alfa Spider has one fitted. The Alfa Spider being a bit of the odd one out as it has front/rear separated brake circuits. No ABS on a 40 year old car. I used to drive rallies and I have had a few cars were we could adjust the front / rear brake balance by adjusting the proportioning valve on the go! Can be very handy if you drive on tarmac one minute and the next minute of sand or gravel.

Either the load sensing valve as well as the proportioning valve are/can be intrinsic components of a brake system. So is the size of the calipers/pads on both front / rear brake, or drums. The set up of brakes is always so that the front delivers more braking force than the rear. The load sensing valve ensures that is done taking the actual load on the rear axles/wheels into consideration. A proportioning valve is more about fine tuning it.

Changing out one component of an existing brake system, without a proper re-think of the whole system is not something you will see recommended by anybody who knows something about brake systems.


Jeroen