[Chhanda Das]

DIY guide for replacing the engine oil of 1.6 Petrol Creta at home

Required consumables :

1) Engine oil required is 3.6 litres of grade API SM - SAE 5 W 30 for all pre-facelifted ones and grade ACEA A3/B4 - SAE 5 W 30 for all the facelifted ones.

2) Original Hyundai engine oil filter (Part number : 2630035505)

3) Original Hyundai gasket for the engine oil drain bolt (Part number : 2151323001)

The total cost of consumables including GST is approximately around INR 1200-1300.




Required tools

1) Fastener remover tool

2) Stubby Philips-head/flathead interchangeable screwdriver

3) Quarter-inch (1/4") square drive 10 mm hex socket.

4) 6 inch, 4 inch and 2 inch extensions with quarter-inch (1/4") square drives each.

5) Quarter-inch (1/4") adjustable socket wrench with quick release function.

6) Half-inch (1/2") square drive 17 mm hex socket.

7) Half-inch (1/2") adjustable socket wrench with quick release function.

8) Engine oil filter removal wrench socket of size 904 having internal dimensions 79 mm by 15 flutes and a half-inch (1/2") square drive socket on the outside.

9) 10 inch, 5 inch and 3 inch extensions with half-inch (1/2") square drives each.

10) Adjustable handle with half-inch (1/2") square drive.

11) Flathead long screwdriver (optional)

12) A few pieces of clean rags and a flat container to hold the hot oil.

13) A clean funnel. A very good substitute can be made by taking a regular mineral water bottle and cutting it horizontally in the middle when the bottle is in the upright position. The upper piece can serve as a funnel by removing the cap.

14) A torque wrench of an adequate range is recommended but not mandatory.





NOTE : The engine oil filter and the engine oil drain bolt can be accessed properly from under the car only. The choice of tools has been done keeping in mind their ease of availability, ease of use and aptness for the particular use case in mind.

Procedure :- If this is to be done by an average or smaller sized person then there is no need to lift the car. Place the car on a level surface, engage the parking brake and then proceed as follows :-

A. Removal of engine bay under-cover
Use the tools mentioned in serial numbers 1 and 2 above to remove all screwable expanding clips from the plastic under-cover.
Use the tools mentioned in serial numbers 3, 4 and 5 to remove the metal bolts from the plastic under-cover.
Remove the plastic under-cover and place it aside.

B. Removal of the engine oil
Ensure that the engine is properly warmed up and then turn off the car.
Remove the engine oil filler cap and the dip-stick from the engine after cleaning them with the previously-mentioned clean rags.
Place the previously-mentioned container under the engine oil pan area.
Use the tools mentioned in serial numbers 6 and 7 to remove the drain bolt from the engine oil pan. You can also use the tool mentioned in serial number 10 instead of the one in serial number 7 if the bolt is too tight. Please take care to ensure that the hot engine oil does not touch any part of your body while removing the drain bolt. Let the engine oil drain for at least 40 minutes. This time period can be reduced considerably but 40 minutes is what Hyundai recommends in the service manual.
After the engine oil has sufficiently drained out please ensure that you have removed the drain bolt gasket along with the bolt. Sometimes the metal gasket can get stuck to the engine oil pan. Then you can gently hammer the edges of the gasket with a flathead screwdriver and a metal tool to get it unstuck.

C. Removal of the old engine oil filter
Use the tools mentioned in serial numbers 6, 8 and 9 to remove the engine oil filter from the engine. Please note that some residual engine oil will drip out from this area. Again, please take care to ensure that the hot engine oil does not touch any part of your body.
After the engine oil has sufficiently drained out please ensure that you have removed the engine oil filter gasket along with the engine oil filter. Sometimes the rubber gasket can get stuck and you have to peel it off from the engine using a flathead long screwdriver.

D. Installation of the new engine oil filter
Take the new engine oil filter and pre-fill it with the new engine oil upto around the halfway mark on the threads while gently shaking the engine oil filter at the same time to remove any air bubbles. This is to ensure the minimum load on the engine oil pump in its unprimed state.
Now apply a liberal coat of the new engine oil on the rubber gasket of the new engine oil filter. This is to ensure that the gasket comes off easily the next time the engine oil filter is replaced.
Clean the residual old engine oil from the engine oil filter installation area with a clean rag. Now carefully match the threading and install the new engine oil filter using the tools mentioned in serial number 6, 8 and 9. Try to hand tighten it using your hand as much as possible. After that you can tighten it for a maximum of 1 turn using the tools only. Please be very careful as any additional tightening can cause damage to the part/s. If you want to use a torque wrench then the tightening range is 11.8 ~ 15.7 N.m (1.2 ~ 1.6 kgf.m, 8.7 ~ 11.6 lb-ft).

E. Filling up the new engine oil
Clean the residual old engine oil from the engine oil drain bolt installation area with a clean rag. Then install the old engine oil drain bolt with the new metal gasket at its designated spot on the engine oil pan after properly matching the threads. If you want to use a torque wrench then the tightening range is 34.3 ~ 44.1 N.m (3.5 ~ 4.5 kgf.m, 25.3 ~ 32.5 lb-ft)
Using a funnel or similar equipment, slowly pour the new engine oil into the engine oil cap area upto approximately around the 3 litre mark. This filling process has to be slow to reduce the chances of air bubbles.
Insert the dipstick into the designated spot. Then continue checking the dipstick and pouring the new engine oil till it reaches the halfway mark between the minimum and maximum levels.
Now ensure that the engine oil cap and dipstick are properly installed. Then start the engine and keep it on for around a minute without pressing the accelerator pedal at all. Then turn off the engine.
Now check the engine oil level on the dipstick again. If the engine oil level is low, please fill the remaining new engine oil into the engine by following the aforementioned steps till the halfway mark between minimum and maximum marks is reached on the dipstick.
Please ensure that the engine oil filler cap and dipstick are properly installed. Then start the engine and let it warm up properly.
Check for any engine oil leakages and tighten as and if necessary.

F. Installing the engine bay under-cover
Install the bolts after securing the engine bay under-cover in place. If you want to use a torque wrench then the tightening range is 7.8 ~ 11.8 N.m (0.8 ~ 1.2 kgf.m, 5.8 ~ 8.7 lb-ft).
Now install all the screwable expanding clips into the plastic under-cover at their designated spots.
Congratulations on a successful DIY engine oil replacement on your 1.6 Petrol Creta

[Aditya]

DIY : Replacing the engine oil of Hyundai Creta 1.6 Petrol - Post moved to a new thead.

[Aravind_M92]

A neat and precise explanation. If you replace the engine oil by yourself, what about the warranty offered by Hyundai ( I believe your car is out of warranty period) and if you do go for routine service, is your DIY acknowledged or do they push you to replace them over again.
Another doubt of mine is regarding replacing and flushing engine oil. Which of the two is preferable?

[Chhanda Das]

Originally Posted by Aravind_M92

A neat and precise explanation. If you replace the engine oil by yourself, what about the warranty offered by Hyundai ( I believe your car is out of warranty period) and if you do go for routine service, is your DIY acknowledged or do they push you to replace them over again.
Another doubt of mine is regarding replacing and flushing engine oil. Which of the two is preferable?

Thank you for the kind words.

About warranty, there are multiple aspects to this. Warranty is at the sole discretion of Hyundai and the ASC but primarily the ASC. I have a Hyundai ASC employee stating on camera to a news media outlet that customers can skip two scheduled standard services before the warranty gets void if the rest of the conditions are fulfilled (video below).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UMwyECTFD6Q

Even after that ASCs/dealers have a SOP of providing a warranty on a 1:1 cost-sharing basis with the customer.
After the end of 3 free services upto 20k kms, my car has not been to a Hyundai ASC. Although my car is still under extended warranty for 2 years after the standard 3 years, I figured that I could technically skip 2 services since the car is not driven for more than 10k kms (standard service interval) per year. During my numerous interactions with ASC technical personnel and Hyundai Automotive College professors (for some car modifications) here in Kolkata, I came to understand that if customers violate any warranty terms and conditions then it depends on the ASC's mood whether they accept our DIY service or force us to go for the service once again at their premises.

About your query regarding replacing and flushing of engine oil, both are preferable based on the condition of the existing engine oil and the condition of the engine interiors. For example, in a new engine, flushing is mostly unnecessary unless the engine has been abused or the engine oil has not been replaced in a timely fashion. Then there is the difference in the requirement of flushing based on the fuel type. In general, diesel engines require more flushing than petrol ones. Then the age of the engine should be considered too. For example, pre-BS era engines require less frequent flushing than newer ones as the tolerance levels of newer engines to dirt/debris in fuel, abuse, etc is substantially and increasingly lower. There is also the risk that if you flush the engine too late after a lot of kilometres are covered, the engine oil pump may get clogged due to some debris particles dislodged from inside the engine and that can result in engine seizure due to inadequate lubrication. Sadly, there is no right or wrong answer to your query since the requirement of flushing totally depends on the situation inside the engine. I hope this helps.

[Valkyrie1.5]

Right so what about all the other things they check during the regular service say brake pads, cabin noise (my WRV needed ‘tuning’ of doors every 20k kms) in a gist for me service is not just about replacing the engine oil.
My dad also just gets the engine oil changed for my mum’s Creta 1.6 every say 7k-8k kms and I’m really not in it’s favour (i can definitely be wrong though).
I think ASCs do a sloppy job, go mechanic are still better.

[Chhanda Das]

Originally Posted by Valkyrie1.5

Right so what about all the other things they check during the regular service

You are mostly correct but this DIY guide is only about replacing the engine oil and nothing else. I hope and plan to post DIY guides about the other aspects like brake pad cleaning/replacement, spark plug cleaning/replacement, throttle body cleaning, etc in the near future.

"cabin noise (my WRV needed ‘tuning’ of doors every 20k kms)" Thankfully, there are no cabin noise issues in my Creta. Even if those were to occur, they can be usually solved by tightening, lubricating and/or adding some rubber tapes.

"My dad also just gets the engine oil changed for my mum’s Creta 1.6 every say 7k-8k kms and I’m really not in it’s favour" That would depend completely on the usage pattern and the type of engine oil used.

"I think ASCs do a sloppy job, go mechanic are still better." From what I have experienced, if the owner of the car is physically present with the car during servicing and not waiting in the lounge area, ASCs usually do a good job. Go Mechanic is somewhat expensive (for aftermarket) and some of their outlets have recently started developing a bad reputation for pushy sales and outright fraudulent activities. However, this is purely from what I have heard and read. Personally, I would not trust anyone other than myself and my immediate family member/s with my car.
We usually service our cars ourselves. The money saved is an added bonus.

[batish]

Originally Posted by Chhanda Das

DIY guide for replacing the engine oil of 1.6 Petrol Creta at home

Ma'am if you have, can you please share Manual of 1st Gen Creta (2017)? All I can find online were from 2018, which have some discrepancies with regard to coolant etc.

If possible can you please share the file here?

[Chhanda Das]

Originally Posted by batish

Ma'am if you have, can you please share Manual of 1st Gen Creta (2017)? All I can find online were from 2018, which have some discrepancies with regard to coolant etc. If possible can you please share the file here?

Apart from the shape of the bumpers and a few features, the first generation Creta was the exact same in India from 2015 to 2020. However, Hyundai did update some consumables' specifications which they mention regularly on their website. So almost any user manual for the car from within that time period will do unless you are specifically looking for those differentiating features or latest recommended consumables.

Since you mentioned some discrepancies, can you please mention them in detail so that we can figure out the discrepancies together ?

[batish]

Originally Posted by Chhanda Das

However, Hyundai did update some consumables' specifications which they mention regularly on their website. So almost any user manual for the car from within that time period will do unless you are specifically looking for those differentiating features or latest recommended consumables.

Since you mentioned some discrepancies, can you please mention them in detail so that we can figure out the discrepancies together ?

Sure Ma'am. There are too many things which are different from what the dealers do and what is mentioned in manuals.

First is coolant. Earlier models had coolant change at fairly earlier interval at 30k whereas later ones have fairly long time period and it is 200k.





Even in Coolant, check this one out. This is from their official site.



It says 30:70. Now, if you check manual, it says 60:40 according to ambient temperatures in North. Even if you take average it is 50:50.

Here's the image from manual.



Also check Brake/Clutch Fluid intervals in above manual screenshots attached. Same with Manual Gearbox Fluid.

Manual also states Hyundai recommends Shell for their engines but so far all I could get my hands on from HASS was Servo 5W-30. This is for 1.6 CRDI.



I wish to stick to what is written in the manual rather than relying on other sources or dealer.

Ma'am, I went through your DIY Threads and from the details I think you do have the service manual for this. If possible, could you please share it? It would be really easy to tinker around as I don't wish to continue with dealerships further. They have become too greedy and shoddy lately.

[Chhanda Das]

Originally Posted by batish

Earlier models had coolant change at fairly earlier interval at 30k whereas later ones have fairly long time period and it is 200k.

Oh yes, I remember this one. If I recall correctly, this one probably happened due to at least one of the recommended coolant manufacturers (probably Indian Oil's Servo) switching to an LLC or long life coolant but no explanation was provided and hence this is just a partially educated guess on my part. However, I do not like guesswork in such matters and hence decided to check the condition of the coolant myself instead of relying on Hyundai to tell me about it. For this, I use a refractometer (image below) to check the condition of the coolant fluid mixture in my car at regular intervals. For your reference, the coolant used in all first-generation Creta in India is ethylene glycol based.

Originally Posted by batish

Even in Coolant ... It says 30:70. Now, if you check manual, it says 60:40 according to ambient temperatures in North. Even if you take average it is 50:50.

Here, I would choose to follow what the recommended coolant's manufacturer says about it. And I am not talking about SCCI Golden Cruiser here solely because I cannot find it anywhere in Kolkata. Here is the datasheet for the Servo Coolant recommended by Hyundai :-

https://iocl.com/downloads/lubes/Hyu...VO-Coolant.pdf

Now the above has the same specifications as the one recommended by Maruti Suzuki as you can see in the datasheet in the link below :-

https://iocl.com/downloads/lubes/SERVOkool-Plus.pdf

The documents in the links above do not mention that 60:40 ratio anywhere. Maybe Hyundai could not find a coolant manufacturer who was able to deliver a coolant with the ability to adhere to the 60:40 mixture ratio. And they didn't care either simply because most places in India do not face those kinds of low temperatures.

Originally Posted by batish

Also check Brake/Clutch Fluid intervals in above manual screenshots attached. Same with Manual Gearbox Fluid.

For the brake/clutch fluid replacement, I do not follow what the user manual says and instead rely on visual inspection and what a cheap brake fluid testing device (image below) tells me. An excessive change in the brake fluid's colour tells me that either the brake fluid has collected too much debris or the brake fluid has broken down chemically. In both cases, it is time to replace the fluid. The brake fluid tester lets me know of moisture content in the fluid. A moisture content of 3% or more means that it is time to replace the fluid.

For the manual transaxle fluid or MTF, they probably mentioned inspecting and replacing if necessary because in some cases the fluid was still usable after 60 thousand kilometres. However, accurately ascertaining the fluid's condition is not possible without a visual inspection. If you ask my opinion here, then I would say that it is better to err on the side of caution and replace the MTF at 60 thousand kilometres since an accurate assessment of the old MTF's condition is nearly impossible without a chemical analysis which is cost prohibitive.

Originally Posted by batish

Manual also states Hyundai recommends Shell for their engines but so far all I could get my hands on from HASS was Servo 5W-30. This is for 1.6 CRDI.

The brand of engine oil does not matter as long as you get the recommended grade of genuine engine oil from a reputed brand. Also, I know for a fact that Hyundai has changed the recommended engine oil specification in India for your 1.6 diesel Creta from the earlier 15W-40 grade to the newer, thinner and lighter ACEA A3/B4 - SAE 5W 30 grade for increasing fuel efficiency by approximately around 2%. They did this at around the same time as the launch of the facelift in 2018.

Originally Posted by batish

I wish to stick to what is written in the manual rather than relying on other sources or dealer.

That is my intention too but sometimes we have to deviate if we find better or more accurate instructions especially since the documentation on paper can and inevitably becomes outdated. And blindly trusting any car dealer is absolutely out of the question.

Originally Posted by batish

Ma'am, I went through your DIY Threads and from the details I think you do have the service manual for this. If possible, could you please share it? It would be really easy to tinker around as I don't wish to continue with dealerships further. They have become too greedy and shoddy lately.

I have never trusted car dealerships/workshops blindly and always like to keep a sharp eye on the proceedings. My Creta has gone to Hyundai ASCs just three times for the free services and my son stuck to the car like a magnet the entire time while the car was with them all three times.

I do have the service manual for the first-generation petrol automatic Creta but sadly, not for the diesel ones or the petrol one with a manual transmission. However, you can find it online for a fee on Hyundai's Global Service Way (GSW) website. I hope this helps

[batish]

Originally Posted by Chhanda Das

I do have the service manual for the first-generation petrol automatic Creta but sadly, not for the diesel ones or the petrol one with a manual transmission. However, you can find it online for a fee on Hyundai's Global Service Way (GSW) website. I hope this helps

Are you sure they have 1.6 Diesel manual on GSW? Asking as this engine was never exported to Europe or any other country but India.

[Chhanda Das]

Originally Posted by batish

Are you sure they have 1.6 Diesel manual on GSW? Asking as this engine was never exported to Europe or any other country but India.

Oh but that is incorrect because the 1.6 diesel Creta was sold in quite a few countries. For example, here is a web page from the website of Hyundai Africa that clearly shows the engine's power and torque specifications for the 1.6 diesel Creta :-

https://www.hyundai.com/africa/en/fi...ta/performance

Additionally, GSW stands for Global Service Way and not European Service Way or Indian Service Way. Otherwise, how can you explain my finding the details of my own Creta (image below) on that website despite the website not being accessible in India ?

Although, I am not a 100% sure, I am almost certain that you can find the service manual of your Creta on that website. For further assurance, you can check out your car's details for free on that website. Please note that you cannot officially register on GSW website from India (since our laws are weak/non-existent in this aspect) but it works if you show your location as one from a European country using a good VPN or virtual private network service since the laws there make it mandatory for vehicle manufacturers to share almost all vehicle details with interested parties like independent repair shops, customers with a DIY inclination, etc. After entering the VIN, the vehicle's details should pop up.

Another option is to contact our fellow Bhpian a4anurag who has a 1.6 diesel Creta too. I hope this helps