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-   -   DIY : Cleaning your MAF Sensor for Rs 120 (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/diy-do-yourself/87939-diy-cleaning-your-maf-sensor-rs-120-a-3.html)

Thanks for the information , As of now the MAF sensor does not need cleaning I need IPA for it's other usage , I hope Cash Pharmacy will sell something like 250 ml or 500ml.

I picked up 250ml for some Rs. 120.

Keep in mind that they sell 99% IPA which is concentrated. For delicate applications dilute it to ensure you dont damage anything.

I followed your steps and cleaned the MAF sensor and also throttle intake part and as much as i could do with throttle installed in car due lack of proper tools but, managed to clear the throttle idle adaptation limit reached with it.

Is oil in the intake hose a cause of worry or do i have to replace the intake hose?

Can anyone give details of where the MAF for a Fiat Palio 1.2 would be located and what it looks like?

Also has anyone tried this with a palio?

The MAF sensor in my Mitsubishi CEDIA costs Rs.32000 :Shockked: and any day SKODA scores much above a Mitsubishi in terms of brand name

Thanks so much for this tip. I would reach a nearby chemist for this DIY cleaner now:Cheering:

Experts, does the battery need to be disconnected before removing the MAF sensor?

I've read on the net that we've to disconnect the battery before replacing a sensor and failure to turn off the power during replacement can cause damage to some sensors. How true is this? Like any short circuiting? Is switching off the ignition enough?

I was trying for an air filter DIY and so do not want to visit the service center to reinstall VAS features for my Volkswagen once I disconnect battery.

Had an issue with my Figo lacking in engine power/throttle response. Cleaning the air intake setup including the MAF sensor, helped resolve the issue. Posting a picture of the MAF sensor's position for others' reference, who might want to go down the same lane. The part highlighted in blue houses the sensor. The area highlighted in yellow is where a module with wires running from it (probably to the ECU) connected.

Mods: The image is taken from the service manual shared by one of our members in the Service Manuals thread. If sharing the picture here will lead to copyright issues, please delete this post as required.

Is the location the same more or less for the Figo 1.2's MAF? I think it is on the left side of the air filter box.
Is there a manual in the service manual link for the 1.2 which I could follow for a DIY?

The Service Manual covers both Duratec and DuraTorq engines. I checked the manual and there is no mention of a MAF sensor for the Duratec. There is a T-MAP sensor mentioned though.

The DIY here is great for self-motivated guys. I was looking at the CRC MAF Cleaner solution which is available across the world except for India. So had one ebay dealer in India to procure it and stock. I just bought it from here

Disclaimer: No connection to the seller, however he had other CRC items so had a discussion with him and he agreed to get this for me. This is just a helpful post for t-BHP members and no self-promotion here.

Shall be trying to get the MAF cleaned on my Swift by this weekend.

The car has done 20K kms in 7.5 months.

Has anyone tried the same in the newer models?

How is the cleaner? Mini review please?! :)

Anurag.

I have just ordered it, yet to receive it. Should be good as there are lot of good reviews of it on other forums as well as some good YouTube video tutorials.

If you have been told that your Diesel car has a bad MAF Sensor or a catalytic convertor, read here to save thousands of bucks.

My Ford Endevour Dec 2008 was running sort of sluggish ever since i tanked up at a Highway petrol pump. In days to follow, I discovered how the new diesel filter which was changed barely 1000 KM back was choked. On my next highway trip, I had a similar issue and this time, the check engine light came up. The readings at the ford workshop showed that the Solenoid Valves, MAF Sensor & Check Valve had gone haywire and needed to be replaced alongwith the Catalytic convertor (CC) .

I was told that the reason for this issue was that the Catalytic Convertor choked and thus pushed back the gases and blah blah.

The estimated expense was to the tune of 80,000 Rs for replacement of all these parts. When I asked them if the catalytic convertor could be removed or cleaned, I was told how they used to just break it off In old days Ford Escort and it worked. But now , as the pollution laws are strict and , the sensors on the pipe would get a wrong reading so i better not remove. Cleaning is something i could try my luck with.

So i went to this local workshop, Got the CC removed , had pressurized air blown through followed by an extensive blow of water and again air until i could feel it was flowing without choking.

Now with the CC fixed, the Car did function a little better on the throttle but, the turbo was still not kicking in the way it would.

Next i Digged in on Internet and based on all the research i did, I realised that MAF sensors dont go crazy for Lakhs of KM and another Interesting part being, In several Other parts of the world, they clean MAF on each service to make the car going new.

So based on all the feedback, I started by 1st removing the Battery Terminals and then removed the MAF Sensor . I Procured Rubbing Spirit (The one they use before Giving Injection) & poured it into an empty collin bottle. Next I used a little collin spray to 1st clean the MAF off the Dirt that was there followed by extensive spray of Rubbing Spirit . Then I used some ear buds GENTLY to remove any dirt i could see on the sensor parts. I let it Dry for 2 hours and then put it back. I also cleaned the Solenoid Contact points with this rubbing spirit and although it would have dried in matter of minutes, I let the car stay this way overnight.

Today when I put everything back in place, the truck is Zooming the way it is meant to be. I can feel that punch back, the Turbo is kicking in the way it is supposed to be and its all good now and i just got saved from being screwed off big money by the A.S.S.


So If you have a similar issue regardless of which car you drive. First, do not drive your car on long with Engine light and next, try what i did and it could save you thousands of Rupees in replacement of parts that just have Dust accumulated over them.

Can you share the details of that local workshop, my 7 year old horse can definitely be helped with one such treatment.

Go to any denter or a mechanic who has a few years experience. Tell him to remove the Catalytic convertor and then, Dont let him scratch off the grill inside, although they will Insist they do it on call cars but it spoils the whole purpose and the readings on sensors go wrong.

Next, ask him to get air blown both ways until the black stuff is gone. It will take a few minutes of high pressure air both ways to do so. Next, use the water pressure to clean everywhere Inside. The way to know when it is clean is that it would spill black water first and slowly would turn to normal color. The mechanic would block one side from the hand and let the water fill in and then let it come out slowly so that all of the dirt inside comes out. Next blow air again and only when you feel it is free flow from the other end, its all good. Get if fixed and you're good to do.

All this would cost you 300 to 400 Rs. for the labour and another 100 for the Air/Water Cleaning.

Good Luck !