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Hey thanks, @Thermodynamics! You've helped out already. Never occurred to me to search their website for pdfs. The two documents you linked to are really useful. Have just skimmed them, but it's the kind of first level information that a DIYer needs. Thanks again! :thumbs up

Here is the latest addition to my Power Tools ; another 4 inch Angle Grinder .

The reason I added another Angle Grinder is that Angle Grinders live a very hard life . Due to their design, they suck in all the dust they are grinding or cutting . If you ever open up an Angle Grinder, finding dust in the armature is nothing out of the ordinary . And since, my use requires the Angle Grinder to be used most and the hardest, having a backup is always a good idea .

This one is a copy of the Dewalt DW801 model, the earlier one was a copy of Bosch GWS 600 design wise . Personally I feel the DW801 design is much better than the GWS 600 design . This is actually another reason of buying it .

On a bit off-topic, I mostly buy tools ( Power or Hand ) offline . For me, there is nothing like holding the tool in hand to see how it feels and powering it up, in case of a Power Tool to feel for vibrations or the lack of it , before buying it . But I decided to break this habit and order something online . I ordered some cutting discs from toolbuy(dot)com . I don't know what experience others have, but mine was not hunky dory to say the least . They completely missed the delivery date , there is no tracking of package , they don't respond to e-mails or any other form of communication . If their service was as good as their prices I would have ordered a ton more , but from the look of things that's not going to happen .

I am looking for Rubber Hand Gloves with 0.5mm or 1mm thickness for doing Electrical Work.

I have searched on internet and came across following information-
1. Class 00 Electrical Gloves-for working upto 500V AC/ 750V DC (Thickness- 0.5mm)

2. Class 0 Electrical Gloves-for working upto 1000V AC/ 1500V DC (Thickness- 1mm)

Also if I have to do some mechanical work alongwith Electrical work, I have to wear Leather Gloves over the Electrical Gloves.


Could someone please help me in buying the Electrical as well as Leather gloves?

Also please don't suggest Animal Leather Gloves as I don't like to use them. No offense to those who use them.:)
My budget is - Rs. 1000-1500/-

Mods: Please move to appropriate thread if it is irrelevant here. Thank you.

We own an electrical goods supply business ; we supply switches , switchgears , DBs , electrical wires , GI boxes, conceal wiring pipes etc to domestic construction projects .

I have myself single handedly, done all the electrical wiring at my shop . I also have a house under construction, I plan to do all the wiring job myself .

If you can elaborate on what sort of electrical job, you would be doing as a DIYer, maybe I could help you out .

Thanks and Regards

I am looking for a sturdy heavy duty 24 inch breaker bar (3/4 or 1/2 inch square drive) that I intend to use to loosen the wheel lug nuts of my car and re-tighten them with the proper and recommended torque settings using a torque wrench.

The wheel alignment shops use insanely high torque to tighten the wheel lugs using pneumatic power wrenches and it becomes well neigh impossible for a regular person to loosen the nuts using the supplied angle socket wrench in the car's tool box..
Hence the need for a 24" sturdy square drive breaker bar..

The breaker bars I liked were very highly priced on Amazon (Rs 6,000+)

Are there cheaper options?

Buy an ordinary GI pipe from the local hardware store. Length is up to you. 3 to 4 ft should be plenty. Slide it over your wheel spanner (or whatever) handle for extra leverage. (it's called a cheater bar I think)

I thought this was a common knowledge. Long back I used to work in a maintenance job and use of long pipe was out go to method. First time I was about use hammer but my superior explained me why use of hammer is bad and instead use long pipe as extension.

For OP, the only issue is carrying it in the trunk all around. A dead weight that you might need once in a while.

The only important thing to do when using such extensions to spanners - Do not wrap your fingers around the Pipe. Instead keep Palm open. Should the Spanner or Pipe slip, your Palm would hit the surface or objects nearby, not your knuckles. This is very important while opening Wheel lugs since they are rarely opened. Wheel Spanner / Socket used to open them, tends to slip away.

I use this 3/4 inch rachet with atachment to step down to 1/2 inch. I keep this in my car. This has never failed me. I have a breaker bar of 90 cm but this 3/8 inch rachet works better.

You should avoid the tyre shops that dont use torque sticks.

What is the lenghth, make and price?

That rules out 99.99% of the shops in India. The only place where I have personally seen a torque wrench being used for fitting wheels was at the Toyota service center in Srinagar.

The length is 50 cm. I paid 24 euros 4 years ago but today it costs 37. This is not bought in India. The handle is thick and gives a very good grip and less effort is needed to loosen the wheel nuts.

Dont worry about brands. This one I have costs about a tenth of the price of a Hazet, Stahlville or other big name brands.

Add to that all the tyre places I ever visited in London.

Tube Length should be ideally 36 inch for Cars. We used long solid bars for Truck and Bus Wheels. Now this 36" can be in Two Pieces for the ease of stacking in Car tools. One of the Bar should have a longer Male Socket Welded on one end, to slide / accept the second Piece to make it an extension.
I use Bottle Hydraulic Jack in place of OEM supplied Screw Jack. Now this requires a Pipe to operate / Pump the Jack. If longer Pipe is required, the Pipe used for opening the Wheel Bolts comes handy here too.

Those pneumatic impact wrenches not only make it hell difficult to unscrew those lug nuts when you have a flat tyre; I have seen threads get damaged and some cases, even the bolt shears off due those impact wrenches .

I don't mind using impacts to take off the nuts , but while screwing them on , I don't let them use the impacts . Also every time the lugs nuts are taken off, I apply a medium strength thread locker before screwing on the nuts .


As for cheaper option , the "cheater bar" improvisation is the cheapest , or you can look at a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar made by Taparia ( approx 18 inches length ) . That retails for a little under thousand bucks .


If your lug-nuts are of 19mm size, and if you have a medium strength threadlocker applied , I don't think you would need more than 18 inches of leverage , IMO .