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It can do, but reduced air circulation from a dirty fan can also cause ice overall.
Yes, this is what I suspect too.

My kids Daikin seems to be blowing air only from one third portion of the IDU. The center of the IDU is almost no air and the other end is low. Does this mean the IDU is clogged or something more sinister?

Aside from the semantics, actually the cold water dripping from the AC over a period of time along with the heat generated by the sunlight starts developing minute cracks in the concrete surface (in my case it damaged the concrete sunshade) and corrodes the steel. In a few years the concrete develops bigger cracks and in time give way.

So, exchanged our 10 year Samsung AC for a BlueStar 5 star Inverter AC last weekend.

The buyback for the old AC was 6K.

Warranty details - 10 years for Inverter Compressor, 1+4 years for the IDU

Initial Impression:

Positives:

a) Absolute Chiller - Understand its a new unit
b) 4 way Swing direction (Up/Down, Left/Right) - Our previous AC didnt have this functionality
c) Legible LED temperature display

Negatives:

a) The ODU is extremely bulky (weighs 46kg)
b) Setting Timer to switch off is a bit iffy. I would need to set the actual time to have the AC switch off. The timer concept was very simple in Samsung AC. You would have set the time in steps of 30 mins.

Real-time timer is good when you are regularly actually wanting the same time. Thus, it is one button press for me to tell the AC to come on at 9pm, at which time we will be on our way home from a concert.

The person says the compressor is not pumping with full efficiency, leading to ice buildup and reduced airflow. There is no gas leak. Says the solution is to either replace with a used compressor (Rs 7.5k approx), or buy a new Ac.

Please suggest a good window unit which will be trouble free and durable. I may not buy online, because disposing off the old unit will be a problem. It can be exchanged at a physical store, though the new unit may cost a little more.

That is a bit iffy diagnosis. Normally if the compressor is pumping less then the cooling will be less, but rarely will it ice over (same as in an inverter AC).

Generally ice forms either when the gas is low or when the fan speed is low. In my window AC this used to happen when ever the fan was nearing its end and would slow down.

Just check if the AC fan is blowing air. Normally at full blast the air flow should be felt at least 15 feet away. Hold a piece of thin paper at the top. in the air path. If it bend then the air flow is fine. Else keep bringing it closer till the bottom of the paper starts bending due to air flow. If this happens at less than five feet, then the fan is not blowing. If at less than 3 feet the fan is really bust.

Most of the window units are similar. What differentiates them is the after sales service. In Delhi I have found that Hitachi has average service, but LG excellent one. Find out which brand has best service backup in your area and then go for that brand.

The fan went bust three years ago. At that time the same fellow rewound the coil and installed it back. Because the mounting points of the current model fans were slightly different due to changes in the AC model, and we had to return the fan we purchased. Whether it is the fan or compressor, I am not inclined to keep the Ac. It is 12 years old.

I am interested in a model which will serve me for a decade, and replacement parts will be available for the duration.

Barring Electronics, most modern AC last over a decade. Fans normally go bust due to water ingress during washing of the window AC. The proper method is to cover the fan with a couple of plastic bags, so no water leaks into it during washing.

In my experience LG offers excellent service in Delhi and their parts are available easily. My BIL's LG window is still going strong after 15 years so is my neighbours Split.

On a whim I decided to monitor the current consumption of my two LG Inverter ACs. The BSES electronic meter has the facility to check any of the twenty parameters by cycling through a push button.

1. 1.5T 5 star bought last year. The current would start at 1A on starting and then over five minutes increase to around 6.5A. Once it achieves the set temperature the current fluctuates between 3A and 4A. Mind you this is in 45 degrees summer heat. I expect the current to come down to 2A at night in mild weather.

2. 2T 3 star bought last monthr. The current would start at 1.5A on starting and then over ten minutes increase to around 10.5A. Once it achieves the set temperature the current fluctuates between 4A and 6A. Mind you this is in 45 degrees summer heat.

This is an excellent soft start capability, so I will be able to run the ACs on an inverter - 2LVA for 1.5T and 3KVA for 2T

^You can use power monitors like these:
https://www.amazon.in/HTC-Instrument...gateway&sr=8-3

These can monitor the consumption in Kwh and determine exactly the cost.

Aroy Sir - the digital meter shows only the average value of the current. I checked our EB meter and it doesn't show the peak values. Inverters and UPS have a maximum peak value beyond which they will trip to protect their power transistors. Sometimes their protection circuitry is not well designed and the failure can be disastrous. My ageing Online 3 KVA UPS failed with a sound and light show - all because a fan motor induced a transient.



This Kill-A-Watt device has a maximum rating of 10 A only. It is not designed to monitor high consumption devices like AC, Dish Washers etc. This device will have a short life if asked to monitor anything more than 5 A regularly. An AC 1.5 Ton or above - even an inverter one will draw around 8 A or more. There is not sufficient safety margin here.

There are models available for 16A as well. My purpose of posting was only to intimate of this device.

I agree with the transient part.

What I is interesting is, that with our Inverter AC, the meter indicated gradual rise in current and not an abrupt onrush (two to ten times the running current) as is the case with AC motors. This is consistent with power controlled DC motors, where the circuit ensures that the motor speed (and hence current) builds up slowly. Even the fan motors in the current high end ACs are DC and not AC (Our Hitachi window unit had a DC fan), so the problem of current spike while starting is more or less taken care of.

Regarding UPS rating, I would take that with a pinch, as they are rated for instantaneous KVA and not KW. For example my APC 1500VA UPS is rated for 970W (and not 1500W), so I guess a 3KVA UPS/Inverter will in real world be good for only 1.8 to 1.9KW and not 3KW.

Sir we had a discussion a long time ago about the same UPS dwindling time due to my miscalculated battery ratings. You had enlightened me about de-rating battery capacities.



My UPS died when it was supplying barely 300 VA. We traced the failure to a desk top fan which triggered the failure.