[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by freakmuzik

The workshop guys called up people who could do a Scan and the issue was narrowed down to a blown Radiator fan motor. The part is out of stock and will have to wait for three days on inquiring at the Maruti Genuine Parts outlet of Popular Maruti. It costs around 2.9k.

Why not try salvage parts or the second hand market if your in dire need of the part.

Best is to go the MGP way for peace of mind. Only happy thing is the issue was diagnosed correctly getting to the root cause of the issue rather than wandering about.

Why did you drive back with the 'Overheating indicator ON?' How there is no further damage.

[ashis89]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

Why not try salvage parts or the second hand market if your in dire need of the part.

Best is to go the MGP way for peace of mind. Only happy thing is the issue was diagnosed correctly getting to the root cause of the issue rather than wandering about.

Why did you drive back with the 'Overheating indicator ON?' How there is no further damage.

Driving back slowly for 2 kms won't do much damage (AC should be strictly off). Today's modern vehicles go into Limp Mode once the temperature crosses the danger level. This helps protect the engine while you can move to a safe location before stopping. Please correct me if I am wrong.

The lack of temperature gauge in this car is the cause of major concern. I feel nervous at times while I go for long outstation trips. Not able to monitor the engine health and getting a warning at the brink of a heart attack is just not done. Cost cutting at the wrong place by Maruti IMO.

[freakmuzik]

Originally Posted by ashis89

Sad to hear about the breakdown. I thought Maruti spares were easily and readily available, especially for a hot-selling model like WR. It seems expensive too. IIRC, the radiator fan of our old M800 used to cost +/- 1k but that was 7-8 years ago. Even I have been facing the horn problem, with one of the dual horns conking off. I did tape and it was working for the past 3 months but has been loose again. Since the other one works, I manage within the city.

I too expected the spare to be available off the shelf. They were saying that it just got out of stock. I too have loose connection issues with the horn and it's presently working on a juggad work of an insulation tape. Maruti service costs too aren't cheap as how people generally perceive. And annoyingly, they try their level best to keep adding extra stuff during service.

[saket77]

Originally Posted by ashis89

Driving back slowly for 2 kms won't do much damage (AC should be strictly off). Today's modern vehicles go into Limp Mode once the temperature crosses the danger level. This helps protect the engine while you can move to a safe location before stopping. Please correct me if I am wrong.

Ashis, you are wrong on this one. Modern vehicles may go into limp mode in case the CEL comes on, but driving a vehicle which is overheating will result in permanent and irreversible damage. In fact, driving at a higher speed in the top gear can still be better so that the ram air can cool the engine - given that it is indeed needed. I just hope that everything is fine with your car. Just get the job done soon so that the car is fit to munch many more miles.

Just in case you have missed this thread: http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techni...eats-road.html

Regards,
Saket

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by ashis89

Driving back slowly for 2 kms won't do much damage (AC should be strictly off). Today's modern vehicles go into Limp Mode once the temperature crosses the danger level.

Once the CEL is ON its best advisable to not use the car and put the blower on maximum in the heater mode so the engine cools down sightly faster.

Originally Posted by saket77

Ashis, you are wrong on this one. Modern vehicles may go into limp mode in case the CEL comes on, but driving a vehicle which is overheating will result in permanent and irreversible damage.

Thanks for clearing the doubt.

[saket77]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

Once the CEL is ON its best advisable to not use the car and put the blower on maximum in the heater mode so the engine cools down sightly faster.

CEL may not light up when the car is overheating as it is related only to the injection and emission system of the car. It is the temperature warning light that will. Hence, the car may not go into limp mode at all, even if equipped with such a mode. And yes, switching on the heater might help to dissipate some of the heat build up in the engine.

Regards,
Saket

[freakmuzik]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

Why not try salvage parts or the second hand market if your in dire need of the part.

Best is to go the MGP way for peace of mind. Only happy thing is the issue was diagnosed correctly getting to the root cause of the issue rather than wandering about.

Why did you drive back with the 'Overheating indicator ON?' How there is no further damage.

Yes, I'm going the MGP way. I was talking about Popular MGP shop in my previous post. The parts will be available tomorrow. And I'm not too keen on second hand stuff mainly because I don't have time to look around for a reliable one.

Originally Posted by ashis89

Driving back slowly for 2 kms won't do much damage (AC should be strictly off). Today's modern vehicles go into Limp Mode once the temperature crosses the danger level. This helps protect the engine while you can move to a safe location before stopping. Please correct me if I am wrong.

The lack of temperature gauge in this car is the cause of major concern. I feel nervous at times while I go for long outstation trips. Not able to monitor the engine health and getting a warning at the brink of a heart attack is just not done. Cost cutting at the wrong place by Maruti IMO.

How true is that. I really missed the engine temperature gauge here. And regarding driving with engine overheating light on, i'll post in detail towards the end.

Originally Posted by saket77

Just in case you have missed this thread: http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techni...eats-road.html

Regards,
Saket

Thanks for the link saket.

Originally Posted by a4anurag

Once the CEL is ON its best advisable to not use the car and put the blower on maximum in the heater mode so the engine cools down sightly faster.

Thanks for clearing the doubt.

Never knew this!!! Thank you!!


BTW, I was not driving with the engine overheating lamp ON!! The check light came on while I was using the Air-conditioner. Once I saw the check light, I immediately switched off the air-con, switched off the car for five to ten minutes and restarted it. By that time, the check light was OFF. So it was the air-con that was putting the additional load on the engine without the radiator fan working. I did not drive with the light on though. In that case, I would have totally called the roadside assistance or something asap. But the above discussions made things so much more clear in case of an emergency!! Thanks a ton guys

[freakmuzik]

Guys, sorry for the delay. The part was available the next day and costed Rs. 2892/- for the whole fan set - including the fan and motor which seems reasonable. Our mechanic did the job of fixing it and charged Rs. 600 for the whole work - including checking the fault, topping up the coolant and fixing the new part - plus the car was lying in the workshop for 3 days till the part arrived. Now it's all back to normal!

[freakmuzik]

So two days back, the Air Conditioner was only intermittently working. The fan would run, but the Compressor failed to kick in. I had no time to check it and my dad called the /C mechanic. On checking, the fuse of the A/C fan was blown and had to be replaced. He also serviced the A/C and the air flow is better. Gas was a tad low and topped up that too. Back to good old days.

He charged 700/- for this which I felt was a little high though.

Need to do Alignment and Balancing and check the gears as they are pretty tight. Hope to do that in the coming week.

Cheers!

[freakmuzik]

The Front suspension is making lots of noise and it seems to be either an issue with the Arm or the Bush. So will be getting it replaced. Was just wondering whether to do it with MASS or some other garage who can do the works.

Also, the car has reached 48k and is just 2k away from the 50k service and had few queries about it -

1) Since it's out of warranty, I was thinking of getting it serviced with my local mechanic if it's possible. Oil change and filters, etc can easily be done by them.

2) For every service, do the MASS guys tighten all the nuts and bolts of the car? If yes, does not doing that affect the car? I was thinking if it could be done once in 20k or something to just see that everything stays tight.

3) How frequently should I get the car checked with a diagnostics tool?


I intend to follow everything else according to what's been prescribed in the Service Manual and the car's been doing great according to my Parents and Sister who have been using it now. The alignment is off and will be corrected after the suspension work is over.

[ashis89]

Originally Posted by freakmuzik

The Front suspension is making lots of noise and it seems to be either an issue with the Arm or the Bush. So will be getting it replaced. Was just wondering whether to do it with MASS or some other garage who can do the works.

Also, the car has reached 48k and is just 2k away from the 50k service and had few queries about it -

1) Since it's out of warranty, I was thinking of getting it serviced with my local mechanic if it's possible. Oil change and filters, etc can easily be done by them.

2) For every service, do the MASS guys tighten all the nuts and bolts of the car? If yes, does not doing that affect the car? I was thinking if it could be done once in 20k or something to just see that everything stays tight.

3) How frequently should I get the car checked with a diagnostics tool?


I intend to follow everything else according to what's been prescribed in the Service Manual and the car's been doing great according to my Parents and Sister who have been using it now. The alignment is off and will be corrected after the suspension work is over.

Regarding the point 1, you could identify a FNG and get the works done there. You save a lot on labour charges and other unnecessary works. My 20k service was done at home and they billed me 1400 INR as labour charges for the 2 hour job.

For point 2, for my last service the MASS guys did no such thing. The only nuts and bolts they tightened were of the tyres after rotation. So unless and until there is any rattle, I don't feel it is necessary. Just follow the routine for consumables change, brakes inspection, tyre rotation and alignment mentioned in the service manual. This should be sufficient for a trouble free ride. Just for reference sake, my old M800 used to run on horrible roads most of the time. We followed this basic maintenance schedule for 11 years (post warranty expiry) and a MASS visit once every two years (whenever we felt like or some part was unavailable outside).

For point 3, again I have never seen the MASS guys use the diagnostic tool in my WagonR in any of the service and so I don't think it is necessary unless there is any warning signal on the instrument cluster.

[freakmuzik]

Originally Posted by ashis89

Regarding the point 1, you could identify a FNG and get the works done there. You save a lot on labour charges and other unnecessary works. My 20k service was done at home and they billed my 1400 INR for the 2 hour job.



For point 3, again I have never seen the MASS guys use the diagnostic tool in my WagonR in any of the service and so I don't think it is necessary unless there is any warning signal on the instrument cluster.

Thanks a lot ashis! That clears most of doubts so I'm definitely going to opt out of MASS from the upcoming service, mainly because they are ripping off customers (just like any other ASS). Labour is so damn high and I'm unsure about their working style as well as about the replacement of spares.

[veyron_head]

Has the WagonR VXI ABS version been discontinued? A friend of mine is looking to buy in chennai and he has apparently been told that the variant has been discontinued. Any info on this would be greatly helpful.

[freakmuzik]

It's been over a year since I updated the thread. The car has basically shown no issue and as most other Marutis on the road, it's been a reliable car. One major update now is that the clutch has been replaced at 57,500 kms. Compared to its initial days, its been running a lot lesser now. The primary reason is because I have my Nano GenX which is used extensively and has already covered 17k kms in around 15 months. The clutch was extremely tight for over a month and on checking with our reliable mechanic, he confirmed it's time for replacement. I have not taken the car to the MASS since the warranty was over, because there literally is no need for me to pay them excessively for nothing.

Overall cost came to approximately Rs 6000/- including consumables. Labour was charged at around 1700/- which I found to be extremely decent considering the amount of work it involves. The car is finally back to being awesome. All of us do feel the need for a bigger car but mom is finding it extremely convenient with the Wagon-R. And the car isn't showing any other troubles either. So no concrete decisions yet on whether to leave the car or not.

Cheers!

[swiftnfurious]

Originally Posted by freakmuzik

...The clutch was extremely tight for over a month and on checking with our reliable mechanic, he confirmed it's time for replacement...Overall cost came to approximately Rs 6000/- including consumables. Labour was charged around 1700/- which I found to be extremely decent considering the amount of work it involves.

... but mom is finding it extremely convenient with the Wagon-R. And the car isn't showing any other troubles either...

What else was performed other than the clutch replacement? I remember being quoted around 5K @ the MA$$ for a clutch replacement for my Swift D(around the 1L km milestone). The 6K seems to be a bit on the higher side to me. Did you enquire how much would the MA$$ charge for the same work?

The Wagon R's poor low end torque could be the reason why it needed a quicker replacement. The thing needs to be revved like nuts to get moving in the B2B traffic.

And it's a fine car if treated with respect and am sure it can go on & on. It's a very comfy car for the elders due to the tall set up, ingress & egress are easy, and the sitting position is good for urban rides.