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I'm Surprised how we both, despite owning the same cars, and ordering from the same links had such differing experiences in installing the armrest. Quite frankly, I couldn't have had it easier. I am quite sure the others are doing something wrong, somewhere.. But all's well that ends well and the amount of comfort that the armrest adds makes you forget all the trouble.

Cheers on the car!

Thanks Frank. I am sure in my case, the problem was due to the 10mm+ extra thickness of the carpet that reduced the space for the metal base to be inserted below the center console. Without this, it may have been a different experience!

DIY: Auto Headlight Switch


One of the problems I had with the GT TSi was the lack of auto headlights. I got used (or rather spoilt) to this feature in the Jetta, that I kept forgetting to turn off the headlight switch before locking the car. This resulted in the parking lights staying on with the risk of the battery draining overnight. One of the DIY that many owners had mentioned was the auto headlight. Finally, completed the auto headlight switch installation yesterday. Took all of 10 minutes to finish the job. Compared to the center armrest installation which took a back breaking two hours, this DIY was a walk in the park :)

Features:

Following are the features:

1. Auto headlights: The sensor fixed to the dashboard senses ambient light and automatically controls the light. Put the switch in "Auto" position and you can forget about headlight operation. In the night, when you turn on the car, the head light comes on in 2 seconds. When you turn off the car and take out the keys, the lights turn off completely (after a delay for the coming home function). No more worry about battery drain.
2. Coming home lights: After turning off the car and locking, the headlight stays on for 15 seconds and then goes off. This only happens in the night when there is no light. In the day time, the lights do not stay on.
3. Leaving home lights: When you unlock the car, the headlights come on for 15 seconds, and then turn off (they turn on again after the engine is turned on). This also happens only in the night.

The duration for the coming home and leaving home light function can be programmed from 5 to 60 seconds. Details are there in the pdf file provided by Ventoman (link in the reference section below).

References:

I used the following posts as reference. Thanks Gannu and Ventoman. I also thank Ventoman for answering my questions in his ownership thread.

Gannu's DIY

Ventoman's DIY

Ventoman's post with PDF file on configuration

Source and Price breakup:

I got the headlights from the below AliExpress link.

VW Auto Headlight Switch with Light Sensor

Paid $79 with FedEx shipping ($58 product cost, $21 shipping). Got the switch in 10 days. Had to pay a customs duty of INR680. Total cost around INR5850.

Photos:

As I did this installation in the night, I could not take detailed photos of the installation procedure. Managed to click some random pictures though.

The package from AliExpress. The headlight was packed well in foam sheet. The controller box was inside the smaller carton.


The contents. The package has one headlight switch, and a controller box with light sensor and cable assembly. The existing cable assembly in the car fixes to one side of the controller box. The cable assembly on the other side of the controller box fixes to the new switch. The cable with the light sensor has to be routed to the corner of the dashboard where the sensor can be stuck to the dashboard with the double sided tape that has been provided.


The plug assembly in the original cable fixes to this socket on one side of the controller.


The cable with the smaller plug connects to the socket in the new headlight switch.


The light sensor stuck to the corner on the dashboard, and the cable is routed to the area below the steering wheel.


I fixed the controller box using a zip tie in the space below the steering wheel. Added some padding to prevent rattling. Not entirely satisfied with this fixture. Will try to fix it better.

Has there been some sort of change in the engine of the current model's of the GT TSI? The reason i am asking is because my 2013 GT TSI's recommended fuel is a minimum 95 RON. However based on the above photo by graaja the current 2015 GT TSI has a minimum requirement of 91 RON. Did VW just change the stickers inside the fuel lid to appease customers who were apprehensive about finding 95 RON fuel in their respective towns? I bought the GT TSI without knowing that it requires minimum 95 RON petrol (i found out only after i opened the fuel lid) and i've been running it on regular petrol ever since because 95 RON is not available anywhere in my state let alone my town. People who have some knowledge about this please clarify.

Hi chase_nt, I think you should also post this question in the Polo GT TSi official review thread. That thread will have many viewers and someone may be able to answer this question. Even I am interested to know the answer to this question.

The posts on the Android HU have been moved here - Android based head units for VW/Skoda cars. :)

Many thanks for sharing Ganesh! :thumbs up

Hi Graaja,

I have been following your thread and FrankMehta's thread very closely thereby making my own research in google easier:D

Regarding auto headlamp switch, is it working flawlessly after the installation. Is there any other accessory required or the single item provided in your link below is enough for the same.

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Newes...684927137.html

Thank you for updating all the details with the link for the source. Lot of us benefited from your posts.

Also have you already changed or planning to change the IRVM to auto-dimming ones? What other mods are being planned?

Hi petrol_power, Thank you for the kind words. I am really glad that my posts are beneficial to fellow members.

The headlight switch works perfect. In the evening, it gets activated in two steps. In the first step at some light level, the parking lights turn on along with the backlights in the dashboard. At the second level, when the light becomes very low, the main lights turn on. I did not have to do any setting. It just worked out of the box. Also, you don't have to order any other accessory to make this work. Just the item in the link.

The mods planned in the order of priority are:

1. Reverse camera for the android HU. I have ordered a camera from AliExpress that will retrofit into one of the number plate lights.
2. Upgrade to Philips H7 XV lights. The stock head lights are very poor. Want to do a HID conversion, but that is a big project and hence will keep this for 2016.
3. Reading lamp unit with two individual lamps, and slot for bluetooth mic.
4. Better mic to go with the reading lamp unit.
5. Auto dimming IRVM. Right now, this is not of very high priority, as I find the manual dimming to be good enough in the night.

Thanks for the details. I will wait for your bulb upgrade. Also what do you mean by manual dimming? Is there any option to dim GT's IRVM?

In the below picture, see the tab on the bottom edge of the IRVM. Press it and the IRVM will flip down by a small angle, and the strength of the reflection will reduce. In the night I flip this down, and the glare from headlights of vehicles behind is reduced.

Thanks for pointing it out. :) Saved my 10k for time being.

I changed the tyres to 205 Yokohoma S drive. It makes some serious noise, though corners feel like playing in a go-kart, I have started applying accelerator instead of brakes in corners. stupid: But the noise is not helping once the car crosses 90kmph.

I fixed the armrest, but now its a bit difficult to access the handbrake. May be I will get used to it.

My another doubt is that in b2b traffic, do you keep shifting gear liver to P (Parking) or keep it in D mode only and keep the leg in brake pedal (what is advisable for the engine/gearbox/brakes?)

You can keep it in D, but this will mean the clutch is engaged and would increase clutch wear and tear. Its always better to keep the gear lever in N mode while waiting for signals and in B2B traffic where you might stand still for a considerably longer duration, need not shift to P

Do not use P mode in signals. It is advised to use this only while parking(e.g in your garage). Because if anybody bumps your car you might end up damaging the DSG.

In short stops (less than 5 seconds) D/N mode with foot brake.

In medium traffic signal (may be 20 seconds) N mode with hand brake.

Long signal (around 60 seconds) stop the engine. Put in N mode with hand brake. Make sure to practice turbo cooling.

You are most welcome :)

Yokohama S drives are purely performance tires, so noise is expected. If you expect a balance between performance, comfort and noise, go for Michelin P3STs (not available in 205 though) or Continental MC5s when time comes to change the tires.

Regarding armrest, yes, I too have the problem of accessing the hand brake lever. However, the comfort offered by the arm rest compensates for this inconvenience. What I do is lean a little to my right so that this creates enough space between me and the arm rest to operate the brake lever.

Regarding gear usage, as Karthik and Rohan have pointed out, do not move to P mode in traffic. If it is a very brief stop of less than 5 seconds, just be in D mode with brakes pressed. For longer stops, move to N and either keep the brakes pressed or engage the hand brake. Keeping it in D mode for long stops will wear out the clutch, as the gear box holds the clutch in near biting point when stationary.

EDIT: If you have the brakes depressed, you can switch between D and N modes without having to press the button on the gear stick.

Thanks all for the input. Why have they given the button in the liver. Is it a safety feature?

I was thinking that P means it will activate the parking brake? So what does an automatic car do when shifted to P ? How does it interfere with the transmission if it is forced to move in P ?