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No posts from Tanveer. Seems he is putting the "white elephant" thru its paces in Ladakh.
I am rubbing my hands in anticipation of an absorbing travellogue. Will probably have to wait another week.
Dear Tanveer, saw your post in ALL BHP SAFARI. The pictures was too good. Can you tell how your white elephant behaved in the entire trip. You have not updated for a long time. And also waiting for your travelogue.
I am back now.
White elephant behaving mostly fine
Problems
1. The entire car filled with dust because internal circulation not really internal circulation. Every time Tata guys adjust some flap
2. Car over heated slightly once, needle went notch above half mark, and went into limp mode. I topped up with 1 liter coolant. Funny thing. From the overflow tank coolant level goes from max to min in 500-600kms, but radiator remains full.
3. Some plate like thing has started vibrating, driving over bad roads with windows down is irritating with clang clang sounds over every pothole
4. Cold start was an issue at couple of places(Tangste 4129 and Hanle 4300). Tangste was at 10 degrees + yet needed 3 tries to start
5. RPM fluctuation on cold start is very very apparent
Quote:
Originally Posted by tsk1979
(Post 1476627)
I am back now.
White elephant behaving mostly fine |
Somehow looks like your White elephant never ceases to draw your attention too much than actually needed:D
Wonder when it'll finally start behaving like a good boy.
Good to know that you face no major issue Tanveer :)
Quote:
Funny thing. From the overflow tank coolant level goes from max to min in 500-600kms, but radiator remains full.
|
Err isnt that how its supposed to be?
Quote:
Originally Posted by tsk1979
(Post 1476627)
2. Car over heated slightly once, needle went notch above half mark, and went into limp mode. I topped up with 1 liter coolant. Funny thing. From the overflow tank coolant level goes from max to min in 500-600kms, but radiator remains full.
3. Some plate like thing has started vibrating, driving over bad roads with windows down is irritating with clang clang sounds over every pothole |
2. It goes to the Radiator and hence emptyin the reserve tank, there is a leakage somewhere, get the timing belt cover opened and check if you can see white marks inside it, if yes, water pump needs a change.
3. In the door or under the body ??, under the body can be the axle shaft.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tsk1979
(Post 1476627)
I am back now.
White elephant behaving mostly fine
Problems
5. RPM fluctuation on cold start is very very apparent |
Can you try to get TASS to swap "Vehicle Speed sensor"
I asked around in workshops with respect to your idle fluctuations, they said they had resolved a "similar" issue by replacing "Vehicle Speed sensor"
Thanks
Rahul
Thanks Rahul, I will get it checked.
As for water pump leaking, if that was the case I would lose water more quickly.
I topped up 1 liter coolant around 2000kms back.
In overflow tank its near min. checked radiator when cold, its full.
But I do need to get checked the overheating issue.
With coolant circulating, and fans working, even when climbing in 1st gear low ratio 4x4 the car should never overheat.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tsk1979
(Post 1478739)
I topped up 1 liter coolant around 2000kms back.
In overflow tank its near min. checked radiator when cold, its full. |
IMHO this indicates that the "closed" circuit in the cooling system is not at fault. If it was there would not have been enough vacuum to suck back enough water. Now is the leaking occuring some where between the radiator cap and the overflow tank? Would have been spotted by you by now.
So Mystery of Drinking Elephant remains to be solved. Awaiting the final resolution. This has me vexed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tsk1979
(Post 1478739)
As for water pump leaking, if that was the case I would lose water more quickly. |
You wont, because its a trickle from the water pump seal (if leaky), that why I recommended a check inside the TB cover.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tsk1979
(Post 1476627)
I am back now.
1. The entire car filled with dust because internal circulation not really internal circulation.
2. From the overflow tank coolant level goes from max to min in 500-600kms, but radiator remains full.
4. Cold start was an issue at couple of places
5. RPM fluctuation on cold start is very very apparent |
Welcome back to the land of potholes and caved-in roads, Tanveer. Looking forward to your pics of the trip.
1. You might want to reline the fresh-air flap with a new (thicker) layer of foam to prevent dust seeping in even in recirculate mode.
2. Definitely a small drip of a leak somewhere in the coolant circuit. I hope there's no leak in the head gasket etc., and your lub oil continues to look normal.
4. Might be due to lower oxygen than an injector problem. 10*C start problems may not occur on the plains - only the winter will tell. You've also got new injectors and fuel lines.
5. I agree with Rahulk76 -
Quote:
Can you try to get TASS to swap "Vehicle Speed sensor"
|
Quote:
Can you try to get TASS to swap "Vehicle Speed sensor"
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by SS-Traveller
(Post 1479023)
5. I agree with Rahulk76 - |
"Rahul" would do fine.. :D
On the other note, when the engine is started, the engine rpm in stationary mode is directly governed by ECU with the inputs from Vehicle Speed Sensor.
TSk is the retrofitting done in your safari , TML has replaced waterpump along with timing belt kit in Type A upgrade and there was indeed a very slow leak on older safaris,
About the hesitation problem @2000 RPM you have described elsewhere that will go away after timing kit and ECU upgrade and a dose of System D.
Finally time for an update after the Ladakh log.
First the answer to the obvious question. Does she still do grr grr
Well the answer is a resounding yes.
For the first time, a mechanical change was done. The HLA( The Hydraulic tappet level adjusters) were changed. The theory was this. Maybe they have a problem. So when oil is cold, they do not function well.
Well sound theory.
But sadly it did not work. Grr grr is very much there.
Nobody has any idea whats the problem. Every time the injectors are opened, some washer is changed(it cannot be reused), and I end up paying 50-60rs.
So I have decided, not to do any hanky panky for now, and let the Pune people brainstorm.
Now the review part.
So whats new in the car, and whats changed.
The most significant change is that she rides on AT tires now, and Ladakh trip was done on these.
Other than that the retro has been done, so she now sports a new ECU cover. I do not have other details. It was a type B upgrade, and the plant people did it, so no job card info here.
All I know is that they did something with AC fuses, Power windows, timing belt stuff and new software for ECU.
Now how did I manage 7000kms so soon
Well approx 5000kms for Leh trip, + a short trip to Tirthan valley(1200kms) means 6000kms in one month
On the Leh trip the FE was phenomenal
9.82 I calculated from the first tankful to last tankful for the trip.
Looking at the terrain, and extensive 4x4 driving, including lots of 4WD Low ration driving, the FE is simply amazing. I was expecting more on the lines of 8.xx or something.
Except for slightly overheating at Marismik la, when temp guage went slight above half, and ECU put engine in limp mode for few minutes, there were no issues at all.
I also had to get Air filter cleaned once, thats about it!
the odo now sits around 27725kms, and since so much mountain driving was done, I decided to get free service done quicker than usual.
The free service bill?
7305rs
Cost of parts = 6191 Labor = 1114
The Breakup is as follows
Labor - Cat Con clean = 280, Brake pad clean =280 Wheel alignment = 450 Tax 104
Parts
Engine oil Castrol GTX diesel API CH4 7.7 liters = 1764
Oil filter = 160.
Fuel Filter = 2145
Air filter = 639
Misc = 17.6
Transpower Transfer case oil Castrol = 3.8 liters = 730
Apart from that, the watch had stopped working, got it changed under warranty. This titan watch costs 1522rs!
Now I looked at the Owners manual.
It says
Transfer case -> Castrol Transpower TQ 1.2 liters to be changed first at 45000kms
Rear Axle, Live front Axle -> Castrol long drain 85W140
Friction modifier 40819 2-5% to be added to LSD
But no such thing is there in the manual.
I think they have added Transfer Case oil in Front Axle, Rear Axle(LSD) and Transfer Case?
Time for a mail to Customer Care.
I had asked the sterling guys to check and double check, but they have goofed up because nobody has any idea about 4x4!
Now how chemically different is Transfer case oil from the normal diff oils. Also when you do not have friction modifier, what will happen to LSD?
Inputs please.
4x4 owners, can you check your bills and let me know what are they putting in your cars?
Now to the other problems.
When I am coasting lets say at 15-20kmph, and I engage 1st gear(for example, while slowing down), as long as the car coasts with cluch pressed in first gear, there is a slight whine of some bearing.
Other than that every time I leave the acc while cruising in any gear, esp 4th and 5th, there is a jerk.
Same jerk in all gears every time I press the acc pedal.
Its not hesitation, its more like there is some play in the mechanicals, so as you press accelerator, the acceleration starts with jerk.
Guess the niggles are not over!
EDIT : I talked to Customer care as well as the spare parts guy.
The Axle needs 85W140, however for Tata LSD a Dana 90 oil is recommended which is SAE 90. Now the problem is that it is not available.
So the only other SAE 90 oil is the Castrol Transpower TQ, which goes into the Transfer case also, so for 4x4 vehicles they use Castrol Transpower TQ oil since Dana SAE 90 is not available.
Phew! That was a scare
tanveer
thats good to know that there is no wear and tear after the Leh trip. did you get the suspension checked too ?
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