Team-BHP - ARTICLE: Synthetic oil vs Mineral oil

Quote:

Originally Posted by rakesh_r (Post 4536010)

I own an SCross 1.6 (remapped). The recommended grade as per the manual is 0W30. The car is nearing 50K and wish to change to Full Synthetic. Which grade can I go for?- 5W30(Idemitsu)
https://www.amazon.in/IDEMITSU-SN-A5...ynthetic&psc=1 Or 5W40 Mobil Delvac1?
I am more Inclined towards the Delvac since it's a Diesel engine specific oil. Had used it in my previous car (Swift Diesel) and was completely satisfied.

Hi, did you finally changed to fully synthetic? Or stuck with MGO 0w30. Do share your experience as I am also contemplating oil change for my 1.6 s cross.

Quote:

Originally Posted by hserus (Post 4553707)

So - an interesting question this guy raises is about oil filters.

Most new cars just have you change the paper type filter element and a new gasket, rather than older cars where there was a big metal cartridge with an internal element, drain back valve etc.

https://boodmo.com/catalog/part-filt...esel-38479791/
vs
https://www.knfilters.com/oil-filter...002-oil-filter

The paper type filter is cheaper to make yet costs more to buy. Cost cutting and nothing else which means more profits for the company.

^^^^^
For modern cars with paper filter element cartridges, IMO, the bypass valve is probably in the filter holder assembly. No car manufacturer can risk engine damage by doing away with the bypass valve that is activated when the filter is choked by sludge or dirt. But then, why let it get to that crisis stage? Just replace the filter every time you change the oil. Filters are cheap, rebuilding an engine is very expensive.

Yes it is integrated in the filter holder assembly. The thing is, paper filters are environmentally a lot easier to dispose, most of it just goes up in smoke when put into an incinerator.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Captain Slow (Post 4572577)

The paper type filter is cheaper to make yet costs more to buy. Cost cutting and nothing else which means more profits for the company.

Quote:

Originally Posted by R2D2 (Post 4572655)

Quote:

Originally Posted by R2D2 (Post 4553303)

You will noticeably less valve train clatter with the 5W-40. But here's the catch - Amsoil Signature 5W-30 does that without additives.

The 1ZZ-FE requires 20W-50, 15W-40, 10W-30, 5W-30 viscosities, API SL/SM (or better) ILSAC energy conserving oils.

Amsoil is 5W-30 API SN, Resource Conserving, ACEA A5/B5, and a long drain oil, upto 25K miles/40K kms or 1 year whichever is first. I don't think it gets much better than this.

Thanks R2D2. I totally agree on Amsoil Signature 5W30. I had been running my Altis AT on Shell Helix Ultra 5W40 for a few years. But this time, after a lot of deliberation, I switched to 1. 5W30 and 2. Amsoil Signature. It was touch and go with Idemistu and Liquimoly. I was a bit inclined towards Idemistu since it is being recommended by Toyota and Toyota is fine with using 5W40. But, since I wanted to test 5W30, I picked Amsoil. It's little more costly, but I must say the experience has been really pleasant. Engine appears relaxed. Note is sweet. Idle is smoother than previous. And most importantly, it's definitely pulling better!! I have a Goa trip coming up in a week of time. The oil will be tested well. Let's see what impact it got on FE as well. I suppose FE would be better than previous. In any case, as it appears, I might be sticking to Amsoil Signature for some time agree:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vid6639 (Post 4552961)

Now I have a few options to try out and I'm kind of confused on which one to go for:

Options:
1. Same Liqui Moly 5w30 Molygen semi synth (ACEA C2 / C3)
2. Amsoil 5w30 A5/B5 Signature series.
3. Idemitsu 5w-40 synthetic https://www.amazon.in/PITZO-IDEMITSU...09ER50RVED5DYK

Hi Viddy,
For the Scross I was hunting for synthetic oil 5w30 options and found these two.
1. Eneos Sustina 5w 30 ACEA C3 Rs 800/ litre
2. Liqui Moly Toptec 4200 ACEA C2 Rs 900/ litre

Have used Eneos for last 10k kms and found the engine NVH to be better than stock oil.
Also during the long high speed highway run the engine is much smoother than before.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JBIBS (Post 4578013)

Trust me, I’m also running Amsoil on my Toyota and it never felt better. I feel bad that I’ve been treating her to inferior liquids until now. I’m on Signature on my diesel hatch and XL 0w20 on the City petrol. The vtec is back to giving healthy mileage figures & runs smoother than butter, plus quieter too. clap: I’ve been after Greaves to bring the Amsoil oil filters here. Hope they do.

Quote:

Originally Posted by kpzen (Post 4578237)

Hi Prajesh, where can I get this Eneos Sustina in NCR?

Quote:

Originally Posted by breezydrive (Post 4582432)

Hi Prajesh, where can I get this Eneos Sustina in NCR?

Hello Neeraj,
You can contact Eneos North India Sales in-charge Mr. Ashish +91-9599302434. He'll connect to the distributor accordingly.
Reference : Mr. Srinivas - South India sales head.

Since I'm now in Bangalore, I got it from their Chennai distributor.

Car : https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/long-...-update-4.html

Using Shell HX7 for last 80K Kms. (22K to 1,05,000Lac on Odo)

ARTICLE: Synthetic oil vs Mineral oil-shell.jpg

Changed to Castrol Magnatec Full Synt 5W30 'start stop' yesterday.

ARTICLE: Synthetic oil vs Mineral oil-castrol.jpg

Noticed one issue today morning. Last couple of years of running the car, during first start at 730AM (same time daily Mon-Sat) the engine oil light will go off in about, say, 1 second.

Today it took close to 3 seconds!! Not sure if this due to low viscosity of the full-synt oil. I have never used a full synt till date. Engine is definetly much smoother during cold starts and highway performance is truly felt. But the extra second or two to build pressure was little disconcerting.

Quote:

Originally Posted by svsantosh (Post 4584956)

Today it took close to 3 seconds!! Not sure if this due to low viscosity of the full-synt oil. I have never used a full synt till date. Engine is definetly much smoother during cold starts and highway performance is truly felt. But the extra second or two to build pressure was little disconcerting.

If the temperatures are colder that might be some sort of an issue. Else check oil levels to see if you need a topup. What interval do you change oils at?

Quote:

Originally Posted by hserus (Post 4585011)

If the temperatures are colder that might be some sort of an issue. Else check oil levels to see if you need a topup. What interval do you change oils at?

It was around 27'c I suppose today morning. And this was noted after 10kms after oil change.

Changed Oil to full synt on saturday noon, drove it 10Kms back home, didnt use it sunday, and monday morning this symptom!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by hserus (Post 4433235)

I have bookmarked this Mitasu oil.
I have used the Mobil 1 oil last to around 9k km
The FASS provided oil would cause the engine to sound gruff by 7500 maximum.

Did you try Mitasu on your Ford ?

I have a Figo 1.5 TDCI and keen to consider something new for my next (60k) oil change. I am particular that oil meets Ford Specs (WSS-M2C913-D)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thilak29 (Post 4585102)

Did you try Mitasu on your Ford ?

I have a Figo 1.5 TDCI and keen to consider something new for my next (60k) oil change. I am particular that oil meets Ford Specs (WSS-M2C913-D)

I'm currently on Idemitsu 5w30 A5/B5 - and Ford is ok with A5/B5 spec. Mitasu is a Russian brand based out of China and marketed out of Singapore, despite all the Japanese text on their cans and Japanese sounding name. https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...Number=2635952

Mobil Super 3000 x1 is also a good oil + has that Ford approval. I was using it for my last fill but the shop I tried at didn't have it in stock so I got this instead (and Idemitsu is truly Japanese + the OEM oil supplier for Honda and Toyota among others).