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-   -   ARTICLE: Synthetic oil vs Mineral oil (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/modifying-car/17917-article-synthetic-oil-vs-mineral-oil-403.html)

Hi, do we have any feedbacks on Amsoil Turbo Diesel 5w40 oil on Brezza Diesel 1.3 multijet?

I've recently started using Amsoil as a brand for my Royal Enfield and it looks good overall, but would appreciate if someome could spare a minute to share their short/long term experience on the 1.3L multijet engine's life and performance on this oil. Any other oil recommendations are also welcome.

It's done about 50k km on Maruti ASS oil changes. Car is to be used in Delhi with ~ 45 degrees Ambient temperature.

Thanks in advance.

Use amsoil signature series 5w30 instead - it matches the ACEA A5/B5 spec required on Marutis. The other option is Castrol Edge 5w30 ACEA C3 if you want an expensive and high quality oil.

Thanks Mate, just to reconfirm are they good for Diesel? Generally diesels go with 40 Grade oils.

Which one of the two would have better detergent profile and additives?

Thanks again.

Ford and Toyota recommend 5w30 for the Endeavour and the Fortuner. You can use a 40 grade oil if you wish such as Shell Helix Ultra or the Castrol Edge which is also in 5w40. Or there’s a Motul 5w40 a3b4 that’s quite nice too.

Use all these oils if you do more than 10k a year including highway trips else just fill Maruti oem oil or any cheaper 5w30 / 5w40 semi synthetic and change the oil every 5-10k depending on usage and oil condition.

Hi.

It's about to be one year since I got engine oil replaced of my Grand i10 Petrol 1.2.

Please suggest me engine oil with specification ACEA A3/B4 - SAE 5W-30.

This car is driven just 2000 kms per year.

I would prefer to buy from Amazon. Required quantity is 3.5L.

You can search Amazon or look around oil shops for that spec, or search this very thread, and you will find exactly one quite good oil that matches both these criteria

Do not change the oil every year if it is running just 2k per year. Pour in 250 or 200 ml of a good oil treatment additive and you are good to go for another six months or another year.

I know folks here will not like this suggestion, but you are basically running 10k in 5 years, which is the life of only one oil change. Hence, save Mother Earth’s valuable resources and defer unnecessary oil changes. I am suggesting what I do with my low running Santro.

If you want to change it anyway, a good mineral oil which is easily available on Amazon is shared below.

I wish we had blackstone oil analysis available in India. I would have requested you to get the old oil tested, which will support maybe a 2 year oil life for your next change with the same oil you used last time.

You can get oil analysis in India - but it is at a cost where you’ll prefer to just buy new oil. The cost whether in India or the US is such that only big time users of oil (such as in ship engines that use hundreds of litres in one fill) will find it economical to have regular oil quality analysis.

The people you see on the BITOG forum etc that do Blackstone analysis are enthusiasts with money to burn and a curiosity about oil + money in their pockets that far exceeds mine. Or some of them manage a big fleet of trucks, which is another use case where oil analysis pays for itself.

For cheap oil - drain and refill it, the detergents in the oil will break down from engine heat fairly fast if you stretch beyond a year in oil changes. Pouring oil additives just doesn’t make sense for a lot of reasons including that most are snake oil that speak about coating your engine interiors with a thin film of deposited hard metal of some sort, molybdenum, boron etc. With the tolerances modern engines (means any in the last 20 years) operate at consider if you think it really is as good an idea as it sounds.

The oil you drain out at any garage is typically filtered and then mixed with newer oil, then sold to cabbies, genset operators etc. So don’t worry it is all recycled.

I was recently trying to buy Shell Helix fully synthetic oil for my Cooper for its annual oil change. It needs about 4.3 litres for a full drain and fill (including oil filter).
(Whether I do 10000 Kms running or not, I ensure that I change the oil and filters etc every year because oil like any other material will tend to degrade with age. And mine being a lovely 11 year old car, in singing condition, I would like to Molly coddle it a little more than is strictly perhaps necessary.)
I noticed that the manufacturing date of all the oils available on Amazon AND in the local Shell Helix Service Centre, were imported sometime in 2019!
I understand from a well known automobile oils and lubricants distributor in Bangalore that they haven’t imported any stocks since then. I wonder why.
So I have tried out a new German oil called Addinol. It is expensive, but the car definitely feels nice and smooth after the fill. This oil is approved by BMW as can be seen by the attached letter. And 5W30 oil is perfect for the older engine, as tolerances become a bit looser with age and usage. Anyway in India our operating conditions are totally different from those in Europe.

Shell phased out 5w30 and 5w40 formulations and moved to 0w30 etc (packed in brown colour jugs)

What you’re buying is older stock that’s still good, the expiry date is like 5 years when properly stored

Kindly check whether the 'older engine' will find it suitable having a low SAPS oil (the can clearly says what you have put in, is low SAPS) , because it might have been originally designed only to have full SAPS oil.
https://autorepairfocus.com/right-en...es-is-crucial/

Funny thing is that 5W30 is the grade originally specified for the Mini Cooper S R56 model. This is the grade that is used in the GCC too.

In India, they said that BMW recommends only 0W30 LL01 FE oil for all BMWs sold in India. I would have thought that our Indian conditions resemble the Middle East closer than Europe.

I ve poured the Original BMW oil 4 times in the oil drain and fill services, along with new BMW OEM and Kengst oil filters each time. The oil was certainly good. Nice and smooth and all. This year, I understand from BMW they are no longer selling this 0W39 LL01 FE oil in cans. They supply it only to those who use their service centre’s and it comes out of a large drum.

This is why I chose to hunt around and see what best oil I could get and after a good amount of research, settled on this Addinol. I also added a can of LiquiMoly Friction Modifier, because the car is 11 years old and has done almost 60,000kms. So far, the car is driving very nicely. And while the oil was a golden yellow when I poured it in, it is still a darker shade of golden yellow after 1500 odd kms run. I have around 700ml of this Addinol oil left in the can which I will use if necessary, only for top up purposes. I typically change oil every 6000 kms or 1 year, whichever comes earlier. Time being in short supply as work gets busier, I am not sure that by Feb/ March next year I will be able to do the kilometres that I want to do in that car, but I will change the oil and filter nonetheless.

The equivalent ACEA C series spec would be ACEA C2

Though - from experience of using Castrol Edge, which is a 5w30 C3 oil, in the Endeavour (which likewise recommends 5w30 A5B5), I can say that the results are quite good. So, not much of an issue.

The reverse is going to be a problem - like if you use a full or mid SAPS A5B5 or A3B4 oil in a low SAPS requiring BS6 engine.

The reason I asked the Q is :

SAPS was originally present in oils, because they enhanced the resistance against shear wear, resistance against ageing etc - basically keeping the oil 'newer' for longer. However, newer and newer emission control norms and devices, have placed an opposite limitation on how much SAPS can be added to oil - hence the lowSAPS, midSAPS etc, which are 'intentionally' less longlife than a fullSAPS oil, because they have the emission side restriction. However, modern engines are built commensurate to this, with tighter tolerances, more modern assembling methods etc. In other words modern engines are capable of having an oil that offers 'lesser protection' , according to my understanding. Will the older engine be able to live with it, for it's usual oil drain interval ? that was my Q.

The only thing that might get affected is the drain interval. And even then these oils are engineered for 10k MILE rather than kilometer oil change intervals. They will surely need to be changed earlier than even 10k km but that’s because stop start bumper to bumper traffic counts as “severe service” to reduce oil life.

You can use low to mid saps oil just fine in slightly older engines (anything from the last decade or so) without significant issues