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-   -   Honda CBR 250R : Answers to some commonly asked questions (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motorbikes/118403-honda-cbr-250r-answers-some-commonly-asked-questions-36.html)

Hi all, I did a ride to Bangalore and my CBR completely seized and refused to move. After cooling down for 5 mins it started moving. Again after 15-20 minutes the same issue. I have a strong feeling that the brakes are the culprit. Also my CBR rear seat flew away. Any good service center in Bangalore to get it checked? I am staying in Richmond road.

Yours is the perfect example of a poorly maintained motorcycle.

Do stop riding it until all concerns are rectified, for your own safety.

Brakes: They're seizing due to heat buildup, rebuild both brakes, no questions asked, this can be life threatening.

Cheers,
A.P.

Hi Guys,
I did a preventive service of my 2012 CBR250 ABS which is close to 45k kms at a FNG last week and did the following work

Replacements

Fork oil and OEM seals as one of the fork was leaking. Used Motul 20W fork oil and it made a noticeable difference to how the front end behaves now i.e. much stiffer
Chain tensioner
Spark plug
Filters (Air, petrol)
Chain slider
Coolant – Motul as Honda’s oem was out of stock. Honda original seems far better
Cone set


Post-service, the bike went for a thorough pressure wash without the fairings. The bike refused to start for almost an hour after the wash and finally it started after trying various methods.

Half way through my return journey, I suddenly noted the bike kept stalling at crawling speeds as the RPM at idle speed was highly erratic. I realized the bike just couldn’t idle for more than 2-3 seconds and the engine died every single time but there were no engine starting issues. I had to ride home keeping the RPM above 3k which wasn’t so difficult as most of the ride was on highway. I had to hold the accelerator above 2.5/3 k to keep it running at signals and slow speeds.
I initially thought its due to pressure wash as the bike was perfectly okay just before the wash. So I let the bike dry itself for two full days but the problem continued. I took the bike to the FNG who suspected water on throttle body so we got the throttle body thoroughly cleaned with a throttle body cleaning spray but the problem continued. Next in line was to check the spark plug which was replaced and unfortunately the spark plug cap broke off while checking and we are stuck as the OEM replacement spark plug cap is not available at most Honda SVC nearby. The mechanic is trying to source the OEM spark plug cap.

I need your help in case the erratic idle RPM and stalling issue is not due to faulty spark plug cap/spark plug. What else can be checked?
On google and forum search, some potential options are to:

Reset ECU (following the ownership manual method)
Clean the tank and fuel pump. Fuel filter was just replaced
Replace the full tank with fresh fuel
Replace the Exide battery as its almost 3 years old
Check and clean all electrical connections


Some other quick notes

I’ve ridden the bike for over 30 kms since this issue on highways and it runs absolutely okay as long as the RPM is above 2/2.5 k.
I have the earth wire mod running
I can hear the fuel pump priming every time without issues
The bike has slightly high oil consumption issue

I got the bike fully serviced before the journey. More than poorly maintained, trusted a wrong mechanic and got screwed. Thanks to some reading in Team-bhp and went to Highlander (fantastic team) in Bangalore and following where the horrors we found .

1. Both the front and rear were replaced with local non-branded brake pads which is what caused the jam in the first place. We were simply lucky to have escaped.

2. The small adjustable pin in the rear brake was replaced with bolt which ensured the action was restricted adding further stress on the brakes. Being an ABS it doubled the problem.

3. The brake pads screwed my entire front brake disk.

The mechanic who did this is someone I trusted all my life from my RD 350 to Enfield Taurus so it was blind faith and took the bike. Also, riding after 10 years after loosing my eye sight so was a bit super excited. Apparently, he has become an alcoholic and when i went to his house to give an earful saw him sprawled on the road, so ended up taking him home and leaving and coming back.

Anyway, good lesson learnt never trust any mech always check yourself. Along with replacing brake pad, front disk, got the chain cleaned and lubed, replaced the throttle cables, replaced brake lever, bought new rear seat and all came to 8000 rs including labour which was perfect. Once again great work by Highlanders.

Back on bike after 10 years feels good. Once again thanks to Team-bhp for all the offline help.

I have a query related to valve clearance adjustment/shim replacement in CBR.
For adjusting the valve clearance, do we have to remove the engine from the chassis or this can be done without dropping the engine from the chassis?

Can be done without taking the motor off the chassis.

Here's a Video;

HONDA CBR250R - CLICKING / KNOCKING / TAPPET SOUND / ENGINE NOISE SOLUTION - SHIM REPLACEMENT


Cheers,
A.P.

Hey guys!
Can anyone here help me find a good ASC for CBR 150R in Delhi.
I used to get my Veronica (CBR) serviced from Swarup Motors in Patparganj Industrial Area but the quality of service has quite decreased over time. Need to shift ASC.

Guys, is the first version of the CBR250 released here a BS3 or BS4 ?
I am guessing it is the former, but just wanted to confirm as the RC book doesn't indicate the BS version.

Reason for asking is that PUC validity is only 6months for BS3 and 1year for BS4 model 2-wheelers.

Mine is the 2013 model and is BS3.
So your PUC would be valid for 6 months.

Cheers
Krishna

Sharing some learnings on the FE, fuel-tank usable capacity, reserve capacity, range per fuel-gauge bar, full-tank range etc from my observations over the past 6 years with my 2014 CBR250.

My typical ride / usage :
My bike was bought as a pure weekend highway bike and that is how it has been used all these years. My typical ride has been 50 or 100kms one-way on Saturday & return on Sunday. If 50kms, it would be a non-stop ride, else a tea-break at 50kms. The bike is not used otherwise for short rides.

The odometer crossed 15000kms only last month, which took 6.3 years, indicating how low my usage is. :)
Interestingly it took 3years for the first 5000kms, 2.5years for the next 5K kms & a mere 10months for the last 5K kms.

Fuel Efficiency :
- During the initial years, the FE used to be anything between 35-39 kmpl.
- For the last 2 years, the FE has been between 38-42 kmpl.
- All rides on the NH47 between Kollam & Kochi with the max-speed dictated by the presence of traffic, speedcams, Interceptor jeeps, stray-dogs, jaywalkers etc but mostly staying below 90kmph.
- FE is measured for every tank fill using the blink-to-blink method (using the blink of the last bar of the fuel-gauge).

Tank capacity :
The manual says that the tank capacity is 13 litres, but I guess the usable fuel is only 11 litres, since that was the max I could put in on an almost empty tank till tank-full.

Fuel-gauge & range/bar :
The digital fuel-gauge doesn't seem to be calibrated linearly. These figures are what I got from few iterations of normal sedate riding (the figures dipped by 5-15 kms for the various bars on hard riding).
1st bar (left most bar) --: 65kms
2nd bar ------------------: 50kms
3rd bar ------------------: 70kms
4th bar -----------------: 120kms
5th bar (right most bar) : 60kms

Reserve range : Once the 1st bar starts blinking, I get a range of 90kms before tank is Empty, which given my FE translates to about 2.25 litres.

So basically a full tank gives me a range of around 450kms.

I have starved to a liter twice; once in GJ & once at Bangalore. I once heard a known acquaintance to have dried the tank; although I take it with a pinch of salt, I don't dare to test it.

The best I've got it so far was 1st bar disappears at 48 Km & that was when we (yes two of us) noted a FE of 46.1 Kmpl. So no comments here.

Ideally when the last bar starts blinking, CBR has gobbled up 8 liters

For 13 liters or 11 liters? If it's 11, then you have to share your secret pls!!

True, best not to run down to an empty tank, given the FI. But it happened just once to me when I didn't know how long the reserve fuel was good for.
After that, I fuel up well in advance to avoid running dry.

In my case, it seems to be 9litres before it hits Reserve (last bar starts blinking).

For 11 litres, which seems to be the usable fuel. Given the average FE (~40kmpl) I get for my driving conditions, the range is 11 x 40 = 440kms.
No secrets really - I ride normally without bothering about FE - as hard as the road conditions permit.

What are you guys doing right to get 40kmpl average? stupid:

I have never got anything above 32-33 kmpl ever in the history of my ownership. My main usage was on highways with fully loaded saddlebags and tank bags.

I have run about 53k km since 2013. Now that the bike is relegated to just running errands the past few years usage is low and hasn't checked the FE in ages.

And I never trust digital gauges for fuel level. They are super unreliable in my experience. I always fill it back up as soon as half the bars are left and in some cases never go beyond 5-6 km from the reserve light blinking.

Cheers
Krishna

Please don't say "guys"; I'm with you in the league hooveing 30-34 (max 36) Kmpl regime. Having accurately recorded over 300+ refuels for last 5 years, this is what I could do the best in triple digits, unless, it's in the band of 80 Kmph all the day where a 40+ Kmpl is guarantee. And same as you, heavy tailbag & highways.

This one is absolutely stunner & I don't remember it failing me except during the COVID times, which I suspect is due to fuel evaporation combined with hours of idle engine run on account of saving battery.

For both of you, it must be the additional weight (tail & saddle bags) and the triple digit speeds. On the stretch of NH47 I ride, 3-digit speeds are not only tough to maintain, but would also be suicidal - I rarely go above 90kmph and am usually in the 80kmph range, which might explain my 40kmpl FE.

Agree, while the fuel-gauge bars aren't linear, the gauge itself is reliable. Never had any issues.