[hdus001]

Originally Posted by ku69rd

Well it depends;would he be charging that money which includes disassembling/assembling of the bike?

Yes this price included labour charges for disassembling/reassembling and cost of parts that typically have to be replaced when reassembling (bolts etc).

I havent owned an RD for over 10 years now, and remember from last time the need to find a reliable and good mechanic. So just googling around now for the same. RDD looks promising, but I hear there are long wait lists etc, and that turns me off.

[ku69rd]

Originally Posted by hdus001

RDD looks promising, but I hear there are long wait lists etc, and that turns me off.

Well have heard quite a bit about RDD; but never got to experience them or their bikes. But the owners/patrons are quite vociferousness when it comes to RDD. Do PM if you are keen on exploring other options.

Would be more than happy to guide you over to a couple of mechanics whom I know do handle/work on RD.

[Collector]

Posting the pics of the Yamaha after comming back from test ride. Still to fit the oil pump cover after the bike covers 200kms and I adjust the oil pump to normal flow Now it is set to provide a bit extra oil!!

[voodoochild]

Congrats Sir, she looks beautiful! Hope she rides the same as well. Might I suggest adding the aluminium beading along the sides of the seat? It would certainly enhance the already stunning looks of the bike.

Cheers,
Rahul

[ku69rd]

Congrats Mate, the bike looks very neat and appears to be restored to its pristine condition. Can you please put in more hi resolution photos?
Yes if you can get your hands on an Aluminium Beading then please do put them, they greatly enhance the look of RD.

[Collector]

Originally Posted by ku69rd

Congrats Mate, the bike looks very neat and appears to be restored to its pristine condition. Can you please put in more hi resolution photos?
Yes if you can get your hands on an Aluminium Beading then please do put them, they greatly enhance the look of RD.

Originally Posted by voodoochild

Congrats Sir, she looks beautiful! Hope she rides the same as well. Might I suggest adding the aluminium beading along the sides of the seat? It would certainly enhance the already stunning looks of the bike.

Cheers,
Rahul

Thanks for your comments. Yes the bike rides as good as it looks..of course cant sample the full power till it is run in completely. Even though I ran the engine stationary for about 4 hours it still needs about 1000 or 1500kms or running under load to settle down fully.
Unfortunately I have searched high and low but have not been able to get the seat beadings. If any one comes across ant that are for sale please do let me know as I have another 4 bikes to restore after this one!!!

[mustangboss302]

Lovely job done - Congrats - well I am in the process of restoring mine. have the basics and spares. I want an advise - what bike front disks can fit on to the RD so that the original look is maintained and can be cost effective - I basically want to have a new front shock absorber with knotches for fitting them. What in produstion bike parts can fit perfectly!!!!

Thanks

Boss 302.

[ku69rd]

Originally Posted by mustangboss302

Lovely job done - Congrats - well I am in the process of restoring mine. have the basics and spares. I want an advise - what bike front disks can fit on to the RD so that the original look is maintained and can be cost effective

Mate,
That's a tough question to answer, suggest you to use the Bajaj Avenger Front Wheel setup to match it with the RD. Once you have welded the necessary stays on the fork legs, ensure you buff it and apply a coat of lacquer. Off course these needs to be done by a professional painter. The avenger setup might put you aback by 12-15K and also requires the hub to be 'phased off' to ensure it seats in and matches to the RD fork.
If money is not a major criteria you can try looking up in Facebook where you can get the original RD forks installed. Am not sure on the existing costs as I bought them nearly 6 years ago.

[Kaumad]

Originally Posted by Collector

Even though I ran the engine stationary for about 4 hours...

Did I read this right?
You mean, you put the bike on the centre-stand, kick-started the engine and let it idle for 4 hours?
If this is what you actually did - I am sorry mate, you have overcooked the engine. The engine is toast and I would be very surprised if it even runs properly. Sorry but what you did is the absolute worst you can ever do to a 2-stroke engine.

[voodoochild]

Originally Posted by Kaumad

Did I read this right?
You mean, you put the bike on the centre-stand, kick-started the engine and let it idle for 4 hours?
If this is what you actually did - I am sorry mate, you have overcooked the engine.

Uhh, this is a time-tested process of settling a newly rebuilt 2stroke engine. Its called "cooling" in greasemonkey-speak.

It is quite alright for the new engine to run stationary for 4 hours at idle speed. It is way better than loading a freshly built engine from 0km by riding off into the sunset.

[ku69rd]

Originally Posted by Kaumad

If this is what you actually did - I am sorry mate, you have overcooked the engine. The engine is toast and I would be very surprised if it even runs properly. Sorry but what you did is the absolute worst you can ever do to a 2-stroke engine.

Mate,
This is absolutely in the right sense of cooling in a newly assembled engine but it has to be done in a place where there is a regular flow of cool air. Else as you mentioned it would have toasted the engine & people around with the fumes.

[Kaumad]

Just one word - Wow
No comments guys, enjoy your bikes.

[ku69rd]

Originally Posted by Kaumad

Just one word - Wow
No comments guys, enjoy your bikes.

Hey no negative thoughts, do explain why do you think otherwise. I might be missing something very basic so would like to understand your rationale as to why its not a good idea.
You can PM me if you do not want to express it in here.

[Kaumad]

One of the primary and basic goals of a newly re-built 2-stroke engine is achieving ring seal. This means a good seal between the cylinder liner and the rings. Two very important ways of achieving this is:
(1) progressive loading the engine - this means sampling the complete rev-band or at least 80% of the rev-band progressively in short bursts. Progressively means opening the throttle a little bit more to go further through the rev-band with every subsequent short run and
(2) heating and cooling cycle - this means you run the bike for short distances, switch it off and allow it to cool down. Repeat the process 3-4 times. The cycle of heating and cooling is very important to achieve a good seal. The revs should be varied and not held steady for extended periods.
The above 2 points mean you need to ride the bike proper and not baby it at idle speeds for prolonged periods of time.

The so-called tried-and-tested method of stationary run-in described above does none of these!! Neither is there a proper heating and cooling cycle nor is there any loading on the engine - forget progressive. So, you can say bye-bye to ring seal.

What I have explained above is achieving just one parameter of the complete run-in process. Of course, needless to say, there is a multitude of other factors such as quality of oil used, jetting, hone pattern, ring clearance and so on which need to be considered to achieve a good run-in.

Just google "how to run-in a 2-stroke" and you will get hundreds of relevant hits. Please do spend a few minutes if you do not trust what I have explained above

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by Kaumad

One of the primary and basic goals of a newly re-built 2-stroke engine is achieving ring seal. This means a good seal between the cylinder liner and the rings. Two very important ways of achieving this is:
(1) progressive loading the engine - this means sampling the complete rev-band or at least 80% of the rev-band progressively in short bursts. Progressively means opening the throttle a little bit more to go further through the rev-band with every subsequent short run and
(2) heating and cooling cycle - this means you run the bike for short distances, switch it off and allow it to cool down. Repeat the process 3-4 times. The cycle of heating and cooling is very important to achieve a good seal. The revs should be varied and not held steady for extended periods.
The above 2 points mean you need to ride the bike proper and not baby it at idle speeds for prolonged periods of time.

The so-called tried-and-tested method of stationary run-in described above does none of these!! Neither is there a proper heating and cooling cycle nor is there any loading on the engine - forget progressive. So, you can say bye-bye to ring seal.

What I have explained above is achieving just one parameter of the complete run-in process. Of course, needless to say, there is a multitude of other factors such as quality of oil used, jetting, hone pattern, ring clearance and so on which need to be considered to achieve a good run-in.

Just google "how to run-in a 2-stroke" and you will get hundreds of relevant hits. Please do spend a few minutes if you do not trust what I have explained above

Incidentally, all of these fundas hold equally true for 4 stroke engines as well.

I had a rebuilt top end ruined by my mechanic following the same "tried and true traditional" method of idling in front of a table fan on my Bullet 500.

The rings never sealed, the bike smoked blue-white smoke well over 1000 kms of run in, and drank oil like a camel.