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-   -   The KTM Duke 390 Ownership Experience Thread (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motorbikes/138082-ktm-duke-390-ownership-experience-thread-284.html)

I put my R15 for sale with high hopes of selling it at 1.1 lakhs(otr 1.4l, KA05) after 14months and 7k km. But It turned out to be a huge disappointment as weeks passed with not a single call. Then, I started reducing price everyday and ended up selling it @93k.
It's better to be realistic and price it according to the current market trend and be done with it than getting frustrated week after week.

PS- be careful as to whom you dole out test rides and have his friend/vehicle as surety. Test rides may result in stolen ride.

You are right my friend..D390s price is coming down. After i purchased my D390 for 1.15L, i came to know that Banks seized D390s are going for mere 80k to 100k, all 2014 models.
Anyway Im happy with my purchase.

The fact is that, when i purchased for 1.15, bike came with a new MRF rear tyre and a reasonably good condition Metzeler on the front tyre. I could have pulled for another 3000kms easily with these tyres, but wanted originality on my D390, decided to have brand new Metzelers Front and rear and ended up spending 18k. I dont think that gets added to the original price of the bike. If i fitted a Xenon headlight costing 10k, got done a 3M Teflon coat, will the price of the bike increase?

I think it has more to do with more supply in the used 390 market than with the upgrades like slipper clutch in the new models. I was assured by the KTM SVC here that as soon as the slipper clutch assy comes to their inventory, they will retrofit it on my bike, and gave an estimate of about rs 4000 excluding the labor. And I do not need a slipper clutch in my bike.
Bank seized vehicles are not reliable at all, as I personally know of some of the guys in one of the seized vehicle yards, who replace parts from these vehicles and sell them outside.

I too do not need a slipper clutch as im quite comfortable with the present one.
Bank seized / Auction vehicles are entirely a different ball game, provided you know someone inside very well, or else very easy to be taken for a ride.

I'm sure you would want one of you get used to one! Things are so much more easier that way!

The Metzelers are part of the OE package of the bike. The xenons and 3M are what in biker lingo are commonly called "farkles." At least the xenons are.

When I buy a bike, I bargain hard for every small OE bit missing. Be it hand guards, mirrors, saree guard, hugger, anything.

The golden rule of thumb in the resale market, especially in a buyer's market (like the KTM is), is that the standard bike is what is negotiated for. If your have farkles on, great. Don't seriously expect to get much over the base price for them. Either sell it with the bike as a package or take them off before the sale, replace with OE bits, and try and find a separate buyer for them.

In your case, correct me if I'm wrong (its been some time since I read your introductory post), your bike was a 10,000 odd kilometer run bike with a 10,000 km old front Metzeler and an MRF from a Duke 200 at the back (again, correct me if I am wrong, and the MRF was the new 390-spec one ....).

To me, that's a 390 which needs a change of rubber on purchase. Ergo, the price of the rubber gets factored into the deal when I do my math.

I look at a deal in terms of the ride-away quotient. I do factor in a service and a fresh dose of oil as mandatory even if the previous owner claims it was serviced with new oil yesterday. Plus small chut-put consumables (cables, plugs, pads,etc.). A sum of 3K is my mental rule of thumb added on. But since that's common across ALL bikes, regardless, it does not get loaded on to the price of the deal.

Ditto for registration and insurance costs. Though a fresh insurance is a couple of grand in the bank.

In terms of a ride-away quotient, were I in the market for a used 390 (and I was), Metzeler tyres with decent life left in them would be a big component of that deal. Anything less, I am not getting a 390. Not in terms of the complete package at least. So if I am not, and I still want the bike because it ticks all other boxes for me, I will load the cost of new rubber on to the ride-away price for me.

After that it depends on my skills of negotiation, on how badly I want the bike, and how badly the owner wants to sell it.

My Bike's clock gets reset to 0100 every morning(>12hrs). Last week the bike was left unattended with the keys in ACC resulting in low battery warning and had to get it charge . Other than this small quirk , I am not facing any other problem. I have checked the battery terminals and they are secure in place.
Has anyone encountered a similar problem?

I was having a bit of a hard time spotting objects in the rear view mirror, especially while wearing the riding jacket. So, I decided to try 'man_of_steel's advice and swap the mirrors to those from the RTR.
The RTR units cost Rs.380 for the pair.

What should have been a straightforward 10 mins swap job, went on to be a marathon comedy of errors lasting a whole 2+ hours!! That's the price you pay for working when you are tired, both physically and mentally. :(

All in all, I had to open the headlight cluster 4-5 times- having dropped two bolts and an Allen key and also pushed the rubber nuts that secure the number plate inside.
I lost the grommet that secures the speedo- twice.
I bolted on the mirrors, but failed to fasten the nut onto it before fitting it and finally I assembled and tightened the fittings of the Fazer visor, but forgot to fit a main piece that secures the whole thing and had to do it all over again.

A very frustrating couple of hours! Sigh!


The mirrors






The rubber nuts that fell inside






Stuck them back on using Fevi-Kwik




All done...?




Well.. Not quite! I forgot this!




Finally, after 2+ hours of stupidity, all done!




Ps- In retrospection, I would have been better off if I had stuffed cotton waste in the gap between the meter console and the top stem plate before fitting things back. It'll keep things from accidentally falling into the headlight cavity.

Oh and about the mirrors.. I was too frustrated to take a 'check' ride. Maybe morrow..

The mirrors are looking good. Since mine were smashed by some hooligans in a parking lot, this I am very tempted to try

Going by @Man_Of_Steel's post, it seemed like a painless procedure. But I am really confused here. Why would you need to open the headlight console to fix the mirrors?

Its indeed very simple. I goofed up actually. :)

Well, I have the Fazer visor fitted. This prevents the mirror from rotating..blocks it actually. I had to either remove the visor or open the headlight cluster and swivel it forward to unscrew the mirrors.
I chose to remove the visor.

I bolted on the mirrors and while fitting the visor back, I accidentally pushed the number plate holding rubber nuts inside. So, I had to open the headlight cluster- first time.

While fitting it back again, I dropped a bolt inside the headlight cluster. So, I opened the cluster for the second time.

Next, I dropped an Allen key. So I had to borrow one from my neighbour to retrieve mine. Opened for the third time.

Well, seems third time wasn't a charm for me. So, I dropped a bolt.. Again! Fourth time opened the cluster.

While fitting it back, yet again, I dropped a grommet! Fifth time!

After all this, I goofed up with the visor supports, and finally finished the marathon. :D

With the Fazer windscreen, I guess the stock number plate clamp also can't be used. Do you have a different clamp made to mount the front number plate?

No, its the stock clamp. Holes have been drilled on the visor to match the holes on the clamp.

Lifehack:
Whenever I drop objects in hard to reach places, I use glue frops and a long screw driver to recover them.

I've had the same problem a few days back. Took it to Akash KTM Pondicherry and the tech there knew exactly what it was. There is a small white/yellow wire that is directly connected to the console and provides power to the non essential parts of the console - thats everything there other than the odo(which has its dedicated battery)- that always carried DC from the battery.

This wire enamelizes at some point of time due to constant flow of current. So everytime you start the key and switch the EKS on, the display blinks, displays a code like JG_03_***** on a lightless background and starts again. Everything worls wells except that the clock has reset itself and if you havent noticed it yet, the trip counter and the distance run after the low fuel warning also. :Frustrati

Solution: Take to ASS and half an hours work which involves cutting open the plastic tube holding the wires and opening the headlamp assembly, identifying the culprit wire and rewiring it. I just felt bad that so much complicated stuff for such a small wire.

Good luck.

It was a simple mistake from my part that was causing the issue.
I had to save the reset time by pressing set+mode Which I never did.

Thank god, it wasn't such a big issue.