[B O V]

Originally Posted by tharian

Finally got a good rear tyre as replacement for the existing over-run MRF Meteor

Looking at the block pattern, it looks like a good off/on road tyre, but need to see how the wet grip is.

Even I was wondering which tyre to replace the meteor with, lately I've felt like its been dragging the bike down, if that makes any sense. Even though its run about 3k kilometers max.

Couldn't find many options in the 3.5 * 19 range here.

How much did you pay for it? A few pics post install would be appreciated.

Regards,

BOV

[tharian]

Originally Posted by B O V

Even I was wondering which tyre to replace the meteor with, lately I've felt like its been dragging the bike down, if that makes any sense. Even though its run about 3k kilometers max.

Couldn't find many options in the 3.5 * 19 range here.

How much did you pay for it? A few pics post install would be appreciated.

Regards,

BOV

Yes, the Meteor widens out as it is used and drags. Mine has run around 25k kms but is not totally worn yet.
The CEAT is from Snapdeal and costs 2400 with tube. Good deal I would say.

[FuelInjector]

Originally Posted by tharian

Looking at the block pattern, it looks like a good off/on road tyre, but need to see how the wet grip is.

congrats on getting a CEAT. hope it fits well. Do write down the first feel once it adorns your beloved machine. Like you said, this looks lie a good offroader
some more miles beckoning you..

[tharian]

Originally Posted by FuelInjector

congrats on getting a CEAT. hope it fits well. Do write down the first feel once it adorns your beloved machine. Like you said, this looks lie a good offroader
some more miles beckoning you..

Thanks FI,

Thanks to you also for letting me know of these tyres since I wasn't aware and when I googled the same, I found an offer on Snapdeal and went for it.

There is another CEAT tyre as well for 19inch wheels- CEAT MILAZE and the Secura Sport in 3.25 size. Milaze seemed like the MRF Nylogrip type and Secura Sport was a size smaller.

Will be fitting it this week and will update the performance.

[tharian]

Originally Posted by B O V

A few pics post install would be appreciated.

Regards,

BOV

Replaced the tyre today. Here are the snaps of it fitted and the old one which is 7 years old. Although not worn fully, I replaced it for safety reasons.

I still need to run the new tyre a bit to observe the changes and get used to it. As of now it feels the rear has a mind of its own and a bit of drag as well.

[B O V]

Whoa those meteors look really flat.

The ceat looks like a softer compound doesn't it, are Dunlops still available?

Thanks for the pics.

[FuelInjector]

Originally Posted by tharian

Replaced the tyre today. Here are the snaps of it fitted and the old one which is 7 years old. Although not worn fully, I replaced it for safety reasons.

Wow. those old ones seem very worn out on the center than at the sides. Dont see a uniform wear for a 7 year old tyre. Could it be due to over inflation? or maybe you ride through a straight line always .
Thanks for sharing the pictures.

[tharian]

Originally Posted by B O V

Whoa those meteors look really flat.

The ceat looks like a softer compound doesn't it, are Dunlops still available?

Thanks for the pics.

CEAT normally are softer rubber compared to MRF's.
Dunlop JAP 350 should be available still. Haven't heard of them stopping production.

Originally Posted by FuelInjector

Wow. those old ones seem very worn out on the center than at the sides. Dont see a uniform wear for a 7 year old tyre. Could it be due to over inflation? or maybe you ride through a straight line always .
Thanks for sharing the pictures.

The old tyre was on my 500 for a long time which was used for many trips, hence the center being worn out.

[tharian]

Done with the annual service which was at 1,06,000 kms .

The usual service with some tinkering work on the rear mudguard which was done as well.

STP oil additive was used as well which is used for every service. I prefer Motul semi-synth to this, but the mech used the STP by default with any oil.

Gearbox grease/oil was replaced as well which was last done many years ago.

Unlike other bikes, the CI Bullets feel better when they are due for service and vice versa. So as of now, bike is good to go for another 5k kms .

[FuelInjector]

Originally Posted by tharian

The old tyre was on my 500 for a long time which was used for many trips, hence the center being worn out.

sorry did not understand
Do tyres on 500 wear out in the center more? Was under the impression that optimal air pressure gives more surface area coverage for tyres on the road. hence evens out the tread wear. Isnt that the case for 500?

[tharian]

Originally Posted by FuelInjector

sorry did not understand
Do tyres on 500 wear out in the center more? Was under the impression that optimal air pressure gives more surface area coverage for tyres on the road. hence evens out the tread wear. Isnt that the case for 500?

Not that there is any difference in wear on the 500 or 350.

What I meant was, the 500 was used on long distance riding for half its odo reading. Normally over long distances, the bike is more or less riding at constant speeds for a long duration which tends to wear out the center more on tyres like the Meteor since they are wider than the 3.50 width tyre and add to to that the thread design, makes it flatten out.

For a tyre like the Meteor to retain its curvature, a equal amount of cornering needs to be done which wasn't the case with me.

[tharian]

Cross posting from RE Queries thread;

Originally Posted by tharian

I am experiencing an issue with my CDI ignition run Enfield.

Although I think I know what the issue is, I wanted to know what exactly is on the way to failure.

The bike has been having starting trouble since few months now, but not that bad, except that I need to kick more than what required unlike before when it used to start in the second or third kick.
Firing missing frequency has increased as well, but just once or twice over 5 kms.
In the last week, there were two instances in which I revv'd the bike in gear before parking it and when I tried starting it after half hour or so, it was dead. Normally in these cases I swap the plug and it starts since my mixture isn't perfect and over time, tends to foul the plug. However that didn't work and when I checked for a spark, there was none.
Since I was out and had no plans to park the bike on the road for the night, I kicked for around 15 minutes after which it fired without any fuss.
It started fine for few days after that until again the same thing happened after I revv'd and parked for a while and started fine after an overnight park.

I know it's not the plug since it would have started after a swap. My guess is the coil or the CDI unit failing. The CDI unit was replaced quite sometime back when the same thing happened.
Another point which makes me feel it is the ignition system is the engine was running hotter than usual and there was a slight change in the exhaust note which makes me feel the spark is not strong.
Is there any other part that needs checking in this case?

Originally Posted by tharian

I have cleaned all the wire sockets and clips for the ignition system and yet to face the issue again. Will update if it re-occurs.

It has been over a month now and the issue did not occur again after I cleaned the CDI Ignition wire sockets and plugs.

Looks like it was a loose connection or dirt accumulated over the years that gave way to the starting problem.

[tharian]

Completed 1,07,000 kms.

Running has been low mainly since my office distance is lesser than before and my impromptu rides have reduced as well.

No issues to report apart from the rear brake light actuator link snapping which I used some thin copper wires to tie up with. Brake light not working is something which I cannot live with.

Mileage had dropped by a couple of kms since the last service but has come back to the usual 25kmpl.

One sad thing that happened was the paint near the fuel filler cap got blistered due to petrol leaking out and the bike being parked under direct sunlight for a couple of hours. Could not do much and left it as it is.

Gave the bike a good wax job last weekend as well.

Here is a picture of it parked at the special space in my office lot so it doesn't have to be scratched and dented with some bright sparks who park their two wheelers on the side stand leaning against my bike.

[tharian]

Originally Posted by tharian

Cross posting from RE Queries thread;

It has been over a month now and the issue did not occur again after I cleaned the CDI Ignition wire sockets and plugs.

Looks like it was a loose connection or dirt accumulated over the years that gave way to the starting problem.

Sadly, this issue is back after a couple of weeks. It is annoying now since I would not know when exactly it can occur . Taking it to the mechanic is a hit or miss since the issue occurs once in a while.

The last time I mentioned it to him, he suggested removing all the coils and checking the reading , but then I was wondering if the coils were at fault, it would affect the engine when riding as well which doesn't happen.

There are set of 4 colored wires that come out of the clutch casing which goes onto the CDI units and battery. These have a loose connection at a point behind the battery box were they have a socket type of connection . I thought this was the issue since it started immediately after I re-connected them once earlier when the issue occurred.

I know some part is defective or needs servicing, but cannot pin point which one. When the issue occurs, I end up kicking around 15-20 times after which I let it be for ten minutes and then it fires up in the first kick. And once it starts up, it runs perfectly.

[tharian]

One more factory fitted part replaced today.

The ignition key lock was the original one and had worn out quite a bit. The key was almost like a smooth piece of metal and it could be removed in on position.

I had a feeling the starting issue could be due to this as well and decided to replace it. It is a 5 minute job but in the process I got the bigger key now compared to the original one which is similar to the old Kinetic Honda keys.
And the other disadvantage being I have 3 keys now, one for the side boxes and handle lock, one for the petrol cap and one for the ignition.

As long as the starting trouble is resolved, it's all good.