[Motard_Blr]

I recently overhauled my front disc brake on my bike. Here are some thoughts and advice after completing the exercise:

- Conventional brake bleeding is slow, clumsy, tiring and unreliable.

- Reverse bleeding is great! It's the opposite of all the negatives I just listed above. It takes some preparation and tools but it's absolutely worth it. It take just a few minutes to reverse bleed brakes.

- If there is sludge in the brake master cylinder, then flushing the old fluid with new will not get rid of the sludge. The sludge is a result of brake fluid absorbing moisture and deteriorating to become sludge.

- The only way to get rid of sludge is to disassemble the master cylinder completely and clean all the parts with brake cleaner and a brush.

- If a major disassembly is involved, replacement of all seals is recommended.

- As the OP recommends, use brake caliper grease for the caliper pins.

- Use silicone-based brake seal grease before assembly of the master cylinder and caliper pistons. It makes your life a lot easier.

- Don't overfill the master cylinder. An air gap above the fluid is necessary to prevent air lock.

- The rubber parts in a brake system can be quite delicate. Handle carefully and remember not to use sharp tools that could cut, tear or pinch the rubber.

- A lot of metal parts in the brake system are made of aluminium. Be careful not to over-tighten screws and bolts and risk stripping threads.

- USE THE RIGHT TOOLS FOR THE JOB. This is a safety issue. Don't even attempt a brake related job without first ensuring you have the right tools. Using the wrong tools could mean broken or damaged parts, under-tightened parts, damaged screws or bolts that can't be removed easily later, etc.

[DevilzzzzOwn]

Very helpful. Will surely try doing it in future.
1 question though.
My Pulsar 220F uses DOT 3 Grade Brake Oil. However, I have been told that I can also use DOT 4.
Is the difference between these 2 grades so minimal?

Also, Am I the only one to notice that the bleed bottle says Brake Fluid (YUM!)?

[ArizonaJim]

DOT 3 and DOT 4 brake fluids are totally interchangeable.

The functional difference is the DOT 4 fluid has a higher boiling point than the DOT 3 fluid.

DOT 3 fluid will not start to boil until it reaches 205 degrees C.
DOT 4 fluid will not start to boil until it reaches 230 degrees C.

For most riding in fairly level areas the DOT 3 fluid will work fine in motorcycles.

For riding down long steep mountain grades or under racing conditions, the higher boiling temperature of the DOT 4 fluid can be beneficial to prevent brake fade or failure.

While talking about brake fluids, both DOT 3 and DOT 4 are excellent paint removers.
If a drop of either gets on one of your painted parts like the fuel tank or mud guards, remove it immediately. If left on the paint it will instantly start to dissolve it.

[Jeroen]

Just a little anorak fact. In most, nearly all, cases the term brake oil is technically not correct. It is brake fluid, as nearly all of them are glycol-ether based. No oil components in sight!

Jetoen