[MonsterPatrol]

Update: Got hold of the whole point set assembly including the original coils. Held the payment till I got every component checked. Went to Ruby's with the seller. The magnets needed charging and the wiring harness had to be replaced. Cost to do this was 450. Made the seller bear it. One of the coils and the condenser wasn't working. Seller said you can make do with bullet's bottle coil. It was unacceptable to me and I said no deal. Seller was a bit arrogant and to the point though. Didn't matter. Made him run back to wherever he was from to fetch another original coil and condenser which he did and returned in an hour. Checked it and they worked. Part no. IG3212-2 (Made in Japan)

Got the work done, took it back to the workshop and got the whole thing inspected by my tuner. He checked the cam and said it has a bit of wear on it, the most important component in the whole assembly. Very hard to source an original one but he has one with him lying around somewhere. And the wiring harness replaced at Ruby's isn't as heat proof as the original one. Fingers crossed here. Now for the main issue, the point set assembly what I procured lacks the housing. Called the seller again and he said he'll arrange for it at no extra cost but also reiterated that it can be fixed without the housing. LoL.

I would like to get my hands on a parts manual. Immediately.

Also bought a new set of meters (Delhi made, I guess) with the lock set, pilot lamp and the mounting bracket. The existing ones were a bit shoddy looking. Will look for the original Pricols soon. Work doesn't permit me to spend so much time in Bangalore. I need to get back soon. I'm homesick already.

Apart from the meters, I also bought a new wiring harness, fork oil seals, more oil and front indicators assembly. There's something wrong with the ones on the bike. Maybe they are fake.

Except the point set assembly the pricing was okay. And most importantly I got it quick. Checked many places, even in Delhi. None had. And cannot risk buying without getting it checked first.

Will get it fixed soon and report back. I also need to get the Dynojet jet kit and a new handlebar fixed on my Raptor which arrived today from Dubai. My tuner wont be free to do both immediately. He's got a long line up of super-bikes waiting on the lifts already. Fingers crossed I'll get both done in time and rush back home to open up the twin cylinders and listen to the 2 stroke symphony echo in the hills.

[pramodkumar]

Originally Posted by MonsterPatrol

Update: Got hold of the whole point set assembly including the original coils.

I think its time you start a new thread

I am smelling a restoration

Pramod

[MonsterPatrol]

Update: Stripped the whole bike down except the bore and the cylinders.
Took the carbs apart, needles were bent. My tuner sourced the original ones. Got lucky there. The carbs went through a proper service of every single minute component and were put together again. The airfilter box looked like it had been in an accident lol. It was dented, rusted and sealed on all sides including the vent on top restricting airflow. Some cheap door hinges were welded onto it to hold the top cover in place. I'm sending the hinges back to the previous owner, may be he can use it on one of his doors at his house. I know parts are expensive to replace but if you are tinkering with the originals atleast make sure you do a decent job of it. We've done a salvage job on it and it looks okay now. Atleast it'll provide the airflow like it should. Oil pump is missing. Because of this there is a little oil leak. Must take the whole system out and run only on premix.

The accelerator cable was on the verge of getting cut. Got that replaced. Also the clutch cable.

The switchgears were taken apart and the contacts cleaned and reinstalled again. The kill switch was giving lots of trouble.

I need a new kicker assembly. Mine is manageable but sticks out a bit.

Took the whole wiring out and put the new one in. This took very long. We worked until 2 at night and managed to finish it. Looks so tidy now. Top job by my tuner there. Really happy.

Got the new meters installed. They are working but the fit and finish leaves alot to be desired. Atleast they look fresh.

Points have gone in. Started the bike and its working well. But the coils are not delivering the spark how they're supposed to but its understandable because of their age. We'll tune the bike and do a test run and decide. Ofcourse the objective is to run the bike to its full potential using as many original components as possible.


Parts issue:

Finding RD parts. Needle in a haystack. Most will be reproduction and the originals are either extinct or hoarded by a very few lot across the country. The reactions I got from stores who dealt with RD parts for decades is quite worrying. Absolutely nothing is available. So one must make do with what he gets. MCC, GEEBEE have no RD parts at all except for a few minor things like cables and hoses.

I did innumerable amount of trips to all the exclusive bolt stores to find a 7mm bolt of the exact length which fits into the crank through the points. The best I could get is still an inch short. We've done some jugaad on the fitment but if I can get one of the proper length it would be great.

The supposed original RD indicators what I sourced turned out to be cheap repros again. Only the lenses were of Rajdoot. The body is ok but the wiring inside is crap. That needed work again.

I still need to get a new battery, cylinder rubber packings and many other small things like iridium plugs and a spring for the center stand.

Yes, like Pramod said this is turning out to be a restoration of sorts. I'm sure it'll be worth it in the end. A clean running and a rare fast classic.

All this work was done in two days. But there's lots more to do. Especially tuning the points. And the carbs. I've returned home for now, the work is on hold for a couple of days as my tuner needs to finish a HP4 which was put on hold because of the RD. I'll get back to the forum soon with the next report. I thank all for their advice and inputs.

Here are some pictures.

[ianuoui]

Originally Posted by MonsterPatrol

Here are some pictures from last night.

Congratulations on the ride!

The bike looks familiar, because I remember debating the front disk rotor - old gen Hayabusa(?).

Originally Posted by MonsterPatrol

Long term plan is to build a complete street going 13 second bike. That would be something!

Now that's something I cant wait for!
Following the thread. Keep us posted!


Note from Support: Spacing, typos fixed.

[silvr]

As I pointed earlier too, for some people, its more of a "new investment option" rather than a fuss free ride. I am really happy for all those who bought it new and are still maintaining and enjoying it, as that would call in for some serious love and dedication for motorcycles. Glad that you went against all odds and got one.
But some how, there is hardly any point to go ahead and purchase one, as for the people of my mind set probably never see a bike as an end, rather its a means to satiate our touring pangs and other riding goals.
As of whether I had any RDs in my posession, well to that I must add "again" I recently got one, and returned to the owner within a week, after loosing few bucks(it had issues with paper), so probably I am not a very good investor ��. For me bikes had never been an investment option and probably will never be, I love them, build them, ride them, but I never keep them in a locker.

[MonsterPatrol]

She's been home a month and its great having her.




Here's a snippet of the short 200 km ride I went on yesterday.

https://youtu.be/cWXJAhOmiww

[r_nairtvm]

Originally Posted by MonsterPatrol

She's been home a month and its great having her.

Here's a snippet of the short 200 km ride I went on yesterday.

MP, nice video.

Is your meters rasonably accurate - specially the RPM ?. I am asking this as there seems to be a mis-match between the RPM and corresponding speed on the speedo. May be I am wrong

Best Regards & Ride Safe

Ram

[Bismaya]

Originally Posted by MonsterPatrol

She's been home a month and its great having her.
Here's a snippet of the short 200 km ride I went on yesterday.

If you don't mind me asking, how much are you getting in terms of FE?

[r_nairtvm]

Originally Posted by Bismaya

If you don't mind me asking, how much are you getting in terms of FE?

India will never change

I've been hearing this question since 1984 and hence the fustration, sorry!

Classic answer at this age/stage Indian two wheeler market is, would be "if you've to ask, you can't afford it"

Best Regards & Ride Safe

Ram

[MonsterPatrol]

Originally Posted by Bismaya

If you don't mind me asking, how much are you getting in terms of FE?

200 smiles per gallon

Originally Posted by r_nairtvm

MP, nice video.

Is your meters rasonably accurate - specially the RPM ?. I am asking this as there seems to be a mis-match between the RPM and corresponding speed on the speedo. May be I am wrong

Best Regards & Ride Safe

Ram

Well, both are new including the cables but they are the repro Delhi ones. So can't really vouch for its accuracy. But there's no twitching as such. Speedo looks accurate to me.

[MonsterPatrol]

Respected forum members, need your help regarding a major issue. Experiencing severe rear wheel wobble above 80kph. Any pointers would be appreciated.

PS: Bike is running on Ceat Gripp tyres. They are new and quite knobby. My riding is mostly on mixed dirt/tarmac terrain and it serves. Still, I would like to go for a more sticky rubber for spirited riding. Michelin's/pirellis/Dunlops. Any suggestions welcome.

[pramodkumar]

Originally Posted by MonsterPatrol

Respected forum members, need your help regarding a major issue. Experiencing severe rear wheel wobble above 80kph. Any pointers would be appreciated.

PS: Bike is running on Ceat Gripp tyres. They are new and quite knobby. My riding is mostly on mixed dirt/tarmac terrain and it serves. Still, I would like to go for a more sticky rubber for spirited riding. Michelin's/pirellis/Dunlops. Any suggestions welcome.

There could be 3 issues,

The first and most likely, Your swing arm bushes are shot, Put the bike on center stand and shake the rear wheel horizontally. Ideally it should not move at all, but if it does then change your swing arm bushes.

The second one would be shot wheel bearings, this is little less likely since there are 2 bearings and it should really shear to produce this kind of problem.

The third and again highly likely is a bent rim. For this you again put the bike on the center stand and see if the rear rim is moving freely, place a flat head screw driver on the swing arm so that its tip just touches the rim, Now roll the rim and see if the rim is touching the screw driver.

Look for issues with front end as well as wobble could be due to front end as well.

Regards,
Pramod

[MonsterPatrol]

Originally Posted by pramodkumar

There could be 3 issues,

The first and most likely, Your swing arm bushes are shot, Put the bike on center stand and shake the rear wheel horizontally. Ideally it should not move at all, but if it does then change your swing arm bushes.

The second one would be shot wheel bearings, this is little less likely since there are 2 bearings and it should really shear to produce this kind of problem.

The third and again highly likely is a bent rim. For this you again put the bike on the center stand and see if the rear rim is moving freely, place a flat head screw driver on the swing arm so that its tip just touches the rim, Now roll the rim and see if the rim is touching the screw driver.

Thanks. I went through the process and yes the wheel is moving slightly against the hub. And the touch on the tip of the flathead is inconsistent and at few spots there's half an inch of gap. What's to be done? Can the indentation be corrected or do I need to source out a new rim?

[pramodkumar]

Originally Posted by MonsterPatrol

Thanks. I went through the process and yes the wheel is moving slightly against the hub. And the touch on the tip of the flathead is inconsistent and at few spots there's half an inch of gap. What's to be done? Can the indentation be corrected or do I need to source out a new rim?

Take it to the wheel trueing guy and check if it can be adjusted by him without replacement. From my experience rear wheels do not suffer bends that commonly. If the wheel is dented and bent then your options are pretty limited in terms of wider wheels, Old CBZ rear wheel is the perfect wheel, quality of factory chrome is just mind blowing. I have those as my front and rear wheels. Next option would be pulsar classic rear wheel but the quality of chrome is pathetic on it. Next option would be to look at old Unicorn.

If you take this opportunity to change it to alloys and go tubeless, you have loads of options.

Pramod

[Khodays]

My 2 cents, since you live in the hills, the constant upkeep of the points will be a pain given its age, invest in a good CDI kit and you will be set for a peaceful ownership for a long time.