[Prakritij]

Hello bhpians,
Hope you are doing fine.
I have a 2010 Yamaha R15 which hasn't done many miles till date as I use my car for office commute.
She was lying idle for about a year due to my negligence and has developed a couple of issues. The battery is completely drained and the clutch was found hard to operate. I usually push start when the starter do not turn. But when I tried to push today engaging 2nd gear, the engine didn't turn. I realised that the bike can be moved in gears too with the clutch lever released. Since gears are slotting nicely, I am suspecting an issue with the clutch cable or the clutch itself.
Kindly help me understand this issue and solve it.
Thanks

[PratikPatel]

Originally Posted by Prakritij

Hello bhpians,
Hope you are doing fine.
I have a 2010 Yamaha R15 which hasn't done many miles till date as I use my car for office commute.
She was lying idle for about a year due to my negligence and has developed a couple of issues. The battery is completely drained and the clutch was found hard to operate. I usually push start when the starter do not turn. But when I tried to push today engaging 2nd gear, the engine didn't turn. I realised that the bike can be moved in gears too with the clutch lever released. Since gears are slotting nicely, I am suspecting an issue with the clutch cable or the clutch itself.
Kindly help me understand this issue and solve it.
Thanks

When you are saying that the gears are slotting in nicely, I am assuming you are trying to slot the gears while bike is standing (since the bike is not starting). What you are really doing is moving the gear selector fork through the gear selector drum, that does not mean that the gears are being slotted. For the gears to slot there needs to be some forward momentum.

Your problem has nothing to do with the clutch, charge the battery or replace it with a new one. Since the bike has been standing for prolonged period of time, the piston, cylinder and valve train are virtually dry, making it difficult to crank the engine. Even under normal circumstances the bike has a high compression, which makes it difficult to push start. Also, would be advisable to change the oil.

[Mr.Boss]

Originally Posted by Prakritij

She was lying idle for about a year due to my negligence and has developed a couple of issues. The battery is completely drained and the clutch was found hard to operate.

When was the last time clutch related components (cable, clutch plates, transmission oil) were changed? If it is still running with stock clutch plates, they are due for change.

Start with the clutch cable as it might have failed (crumbled outer sleeve or rusted inner) and then move towards the clutch plates. In any case, change the transmission oil.

[Prakritij]

Originally Posted by PratikPatel

When you are saying that the gears are slotting in nicely, I am assuming you are trying to slot the gears while bike is standing (since the bike is not starting). What you are really doing is moving the gear selector fork through the gear selector drum, that does not mean that the gears are being slotted. For the gears to slot there needs to be some forward momentum.

Your problem has nothing to do with the clutch, charge the battery or replace it with a new one. Since the bike has been standing for prolonged period of time, the piston, cylinder and valve train are virtually dry, making it difficult to crank the engine. Even under normal circumstances the bike has a high compression, which makes it difficult to push start. Also, would be advisable to change the oil.

Originally Posted by Mr.Boss

When was the last time clutch related components (cable, clutch plates, transmission oil) were changed? If it is still running with stock clutch plates, they are due for change.

Start with the clutch cable as it might have failed (crumbled outer sleeve or rusted inner) and then move towards the clutch plates. In any case, change the transmission oil.

Thank You for your prompt replies.
The clutch system is stock and the battery is due for replacement.
I will first replace the battery, engine oil and the clutch cable to start with.
Lets see if it solves the problem.
Thanks again.

[Suresh Stephen]

Originally Posted by Prakritij

Hello bhpians,
Hope you are doing fine.
I have a 2010 Yamaha R15 which hasn't done many miles till date as I use my car for office commute.
She was lying idle for about a year due to my negligence and has developed a couple of issues. The battery is completely drained and the clutch was found hard to operate. I usually push start when the starter do not turn. But when I tried to push today engaging 2nd gear, the engine didn't turn. I realised that the bike can be moved in gears too with the clutch lever released. Since gears are slotting nicely, I am suspecting an issue with the clutch cable or the clutch itself.
Kindly help me understand this issue and solve it.
Thanks

Looks like your clutch could be slipping. Are you able freely move the clutch lever, How is the play in the lever.
If the clutch lever is moving freely, nothing is wrong with the cable. Now ensure that there is positive play in lever. Try de-clutching 5 to 6 times, and try again, sometimes when the vehicle not used, the clutch can get stuck .
If the clutch play is fine and even with some de-clutching, it is not working, then you may have to open the clutch , clean it and re assemble it

[Prakritij]

Originally Posted by Suresh Stephen

Looks like your clutch could be slipping. Are you able freely move the clutch lever, How is the play in the lever.
If the clutch lever is moving freely, nothing is wrong with the cable. Now ensure that there is positive play in lever. Try de-clutching 5 to 6 times, and try again, sometimes when the vehicle not used, the clutch can get stuck .
If the clutch play is fine and even with some de-clutching, it is not working, then you may have to open the clutch , clean it and re assemble it

Thank you Suresh.
There is some play in the lever but the lever has become hard to operate.
Will try out the de-clutching method. Hope it works.
Actually the bike is at a place where access to external help is difficult. I was intending to make the bike operable and then go to the local mechanic.
Lets see how it goes.
Thanks

[Suresh Stephen]

Originally Posted by Prakritij

Thank you Suresh.
There is some play in the lever but the lever has become hard to operate.
Will try out the de-clutching method. Hope it works.
Actually the bike is at a place where access to external help is difficult. I was intending to make the bike operable and then go to the local mechanic.
Lets see how it goes.
Thanks

If the lever is hard to press, it is an indication that the clutch cable is stuck. If you are not able to move the lever at all, I suggest you remove the cable, use a small double end spanner or a screw drive and activate the clutch arm fitted on the engine case directly and try.

[fusionbang]

I was in a similar situation with my 2011 R15 and it turned out to be a clogged Fuel pump. It could be a possibility, so get it checked as well.

[Prakritij]

Update.
Tried to push start with more manpower (2 guys) and a bit longer distance and she started. Rode her a little bit to observe the feedback from the bike.
Clutch which was hard, works only in the extreme end of the lever pull like an on-off switch. It couples the engine to the GB or decouples. No "riding the clutch" available. (I do not ride the clutch). Hope I am making myself clear here.
Not much acceleration across the rpm range. Will the issue go away with more riding as everything was OK earlier.
I have taken out the battery and will give it to a battery-walla to charge it. I may also have a spare clutch cable and will change it and see the results.

Thank you

[hothatchaway]

The clutch cable itself can be adjusted, both where it joins the lever or where it enters the gear box by means of an adjustable screw. That itself is a simple job. If you are saying that the engine is revving but acceleration isn't happening then the clutch plates need to be inspected.
If the bike has been unused for a while best to get it serviced at a good workshop. If nothing was wrong before then it's unlikely you are staring at a costly repair bill. The R15 is bulletproof

[Prakritij]

I am planning to get her serviced soon. Clutch overhaul, coolant and engine oil replacement, front tyre replacement, brake bleeding are on the cards.
If time permits, tappet adjustment and fuel tank cleaning can be done.
Thanks

[ashwinprakas]

Your clutch is not engaging properly, reasons could be;

1. Clutch cable too tight, no free play at all.
2. Worn out Plates.
3. Weak Springs.

At this point I would simply change the entire clutch as I have absolutely no clue of the condition of the clutch, a new basket, center, pressure plate, steel plates, friction plates, springs, clutch bearings etc.

If my memory serves me right the Japanese bikes(Apache as well since its basically a Suzuki) have a different type of disengagement mechanism they use a pushrod and a ball, Yamaha's have an even weirder disengagement mechanism where it is initiated from the other side rather than the clutch cover like in the Pulsar's etc.

So do have a long look at the parts manual before taking the clutch cover off, if you see any wear and tear on the disengagement mechanism please do replace parts.

Having said all the above it is only commonsense to change the clutch cover gasket when you're at it, also on Liquid Cooled machines it is a good idea to change the water pump seals when taking the clutch cover off.

Hope that helps.

Also recharging a dead battery is pointless and a waste of money, basically reviving any battery that considerably drops(way below 9~10v when cranking) volts under load is pointless, you're just delaying the inevitable and putting unnecessary load on the charging system while at it. So simply replace.

Regards,
A.P.

[hothatchaway]

A smart aleck mechanic at an authorized shop (which I visited only once) tried to get me to replace the clutch plates in the R15 I used to own. I resisted and later realized that only the cable needed proper adjustment, as demonstrated by the centre which I later went to and patronized until I sold the bike. I was still on stock chain-sprocket and clutch when I sold the bike after 6 years. So get a good opinion before you change it out.

Is yours a V1? If so then the parts should be built to last as they initial batches had OEM parts from Indonesia. Also you say you never ride the clutch.

[Prakritij]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

Your clutch is not engaging properly, reasons could be;

1. Clutch cable too tight, no free play at all.
2. Worn out Plates.
3. Weak Springs.

At this point I would simply change the entire clutch as I have absolutely no clue of the condition of the clutch, a new basket, center, pressure plate, steel plates, friction plates, springs, clutch bearings etc.

If my memory serves me right the Japanese bikes(Apache as well since its basically a Suzuki) have a different type of disengagement mechanism they use a pushrod and a ball, Yamaha's have an even weirder disengagement mechanism where it is initiated from the other side rather than the clutch cover like in the Pulsar's etc.

So do have a long look at the parts manual before taking the clutch cover off, if you see any wear and tear on the disengagement mechanism please do replace parts.

Having said all the above it is only commonsense to change the clutch cover gasket when you're at it, also on Liquid Cooled machines it is a good idea to change the water pump seals when taking the clutch cover off.

Hope that helps.

Also recharging a dead battery is pointless and a waste of money, basically reviving any battery that considerably drops(way below 9~10v when cranking) volts under load is pointless, you're just delaying the inevitable and putting unnecessary load on the charging system while at it. So simply replace.

Regards,
A.P.

Thank you for your inputs. I have charged the battery and it is currently serving my purpose. The battery is no doubt weak and cranks are longer and if not used for some days, the bike needs to be push started.

Originally Posted by hothatchaway

A smart aleck mechanic at an authorized shop (which I visited only once) tried to get me to replace the clutch plates in the R15 I used to own. I resisted and later realized that only the cable needed proper adjustment, as demonstrated by the centre which I later went to and patronized until I sold the bike. I was still on stock chain-sprocket and clutch when I sold the bike after 6 years. So get a good opinion before you change it out.

Is yours a V1? If so then the parts should be built to last as they initial batches had OEM parts from Indonesia. Also you say you never ride the clutch.

V1 it is.

Update: I have replaced the clutch cable and the clutch operation is good as new now.
I have been using the bike for a couple of kms daily and she is doing fine albeit with some minor roughness from the engine. Maybe an engine oil change will smoothen it out.

One more thing that is out of normal is the TFT display showing the distance covered with low fuel warning. I have around 2 liters of petrol in the tank and the -ve counter is not going away. The attached pic shows -67.9kms and it is at -80kms now. Anyone faced this?