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-   -   Need Help (deciding Second Hand) RE Bullet Machismo 350 or Electra 5S (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motorbikes/65051-need-help-deciding-second-hand-re-bullet-machismo-350-electra-5s-7.html)

Can anyone suggest how to reduce the seating height of the Electra? After fitting the new contoured seat, the seating height seems to have increased by almost a few inches. Is it possible without any changes to the frame?

Yes, take it to a good seat cover shop and tell them how low you need the seat to be and they will slice the foam accordingly and re-apply the seat cover.

If it is a stock Bullet seat, I would suggest let it be if it is not all that uncomfortable as over time it will settle in.

Slicing the foam is not exactly what I'd opt for given the fact that it's a new OEM seat and I do not want to compromise on comfort factor. Moreover, over a period of time the foam might settle in but will that reduce the overall seating height much? I was thinking on the lines of maybe adjusting the shockers or probably reducing the seat attachment lugs. Experts may please comment please:. By the way, received the consignment of steel rims and spokes today. So, after this weekend, hopefully the alloys will be gone and an additional dose of chrome applied to the Red Bull

Caliper can be fit on to the mount circled in pic with minimal work. Mount is same of disc version but left un-drilled for drum brake.

IIrc, even in 2008 two versions were available in both 4s & 5s models- drum+kick or disc+electric. Uptill 2007 one could opt for disc+kick or drum+electric combo also, which were later discontinued, this coincided with the paint scheme change from two tone to single color.

The TLS Drum brake is good, the weakness lies in the actuation link- the cable- which limits the force transferable. A hydraulic drum could have been the best of both worlds :)

I wouldn't do either.

Adjusting shocks to lower the rear will affect handling, ride and most of all give you a bone jarring ride and with two up, it is going to bottom out easily.

Reducing the seat clamps that bolt on to the frame, if that is what you meant, again is not recommended since there are the electrical components related to ignition that sit under the seat which you may end up touching the base plate with and on the rear will leave a dent on the mudguard.

I would rather slice a new foam or look for a less high seat foam since I know they are available as well outside of RE.

Just my opinion though I don't consider myself an expert.:D

Attachment 1394896
If you look carefully at the image that I have posted, you will notice the subtle difference in the calliper mounting base integrated onto the shockers. The ones on mine are shorter in length and hence will not be able to accomodate the callipers of Thunderbird or Continental GT of Bybre make. The same has also been confirmed by the spare parts dealer and the mechanic. The erstwhile Pricol Kits could have been fitted onto these shockers. Installation of present Bybre sets would involve changing the shocker with one from either Thunderbird or Electra UCE.

Are these available for motorcycles in India? And if available are they efficient and worth the expenditure?

If that be the case, why are the 3/5 stage adjustment options available with these gas filled shockers? Can you please elaborate? Also the gap between the rear tyre and the mudguard in an Electra is awkwardly high. I doubt if it will bottom out. Have you ever experienced or come across anybody who has similar experience?

I have checked the clearance of the seat base plate from the highest component below it and the minimum clearance is about 1.5 inches which can further be reduced if the components are tucked in with minor modifications. Will it still be a problem?

My apologies for the inordinate delay in uploading the pic of the gearbox. Please see the attached picture with the highlighted portion containing the sealed hole. Let know what you think of it. Also pl suggest what can be done to do away with this ugly mark. Should I go in for a clutch cover change or some welding etc of the affected portion with subsequent chroming can do the job. The condition of the gearbox and the "Red Bull" is otherwise immaculate to say the least and I am enjoying every bit of the ride daily. I have stopped using my October 2014 Honda City and presently using the Red Bull for daily commuting.

The adjustable shocks are not provided to increase or decrease the height of the bike,it is mainly to change the load carrying capacity ,comfort and to an extent on a Bullet, handling.
If you are going to lower the bike by adjusting the springs,it will just give you a bit of a difference in height. And believe me ,Enfield shocks are hard as it is and you don't want to harden it further.
By bottoming out,I meant the dampers compressed fully. When you adjust the springs to the minimum height,you are reducing the travel distance the dampers can move and that is not going to help in absorbing any shocks from the road and it will have a negative effect on your body as well as the bikes.

As for the seat plate, I still wouldn't fiddle with the plate or clamps.

Can you measure the center distance between bolt hole positions? It is ~60mm as on my '08 Electra with Pricol & '12 Tbts with Bybre. The CGT may be different but new '15 Tbts has same bybre. Pricol kits are no less in utility and the kit, parts are available but may be in fewer nos in comparison to the other.

For the clutch cover, easy way out is to swap one with a 4s specific one. Else you can put in a blanking aluminium plug & weld it shut, then polish off.
Btw, the fuel tank looks to be from later Uce electra. cheers.,

aviator1101 mate my take about the drilled gearbox was correct with regards to the process of conversion from 5 speed to 4 speed. Since you are not facing any problems with the gearbox I would suggest leave the hole as is. If it is only for aesthetic purpose that you want to plug the clutch case hole then there are many options to explore right from buying a new one to modifying the existing one by plugging the hole and machining it to the surface and buffing it to look seamless. Try to find out the price of a new clutch case cover vis a vis the mod of plugging the hole and then decide. My take on the fitting a front disc brake was also correct with respect to RE's OEM provider Pricol disc conversion kit(For your information Pricol Disc brake was made in technical collaboration with Bybre as my 2004 AVL Tbird shows the stamp of Bybre on brake fluid reservoir). Check with your local vendors or mechanics if pricol disc brake kit is still available. If yes then go for it as they are a direct bolt on with minimal modifications. Keep in mind of you plan for the new Bybre disc set up used on new Tbird and CGT then you might end up spending a lot of money including fork set and disc kit itself.

Also keep in mind it is not necessary that your existing Electra headlight housing assembly called "Casquette" (called as "mundi" by mechanics) will fit the new Tbird and CGT forks. For example my 1996 model Standard's casquette wasn't taking my 2004 AVL Tbird's front forks although fork diameter dimensions are the same from top. The reason was 1996 model Standard uses threaded type forks where the forks head are threaded on top which fits the housing by threading and later securing it through two big screws on top of the casquette. Fortunately my mechanic had a spare Electra casquette which was a bolt on to accommodate the Tbird AVL forks as both Electra and Tbird of that era use the same fork assembly. About the seat, get a custom built seat to suit your style and height there are millions of options as far as seats go. My suggestion to you is to take all these modifications into consideration and only then go ahead with your decision.

I would happily do that but wont the type of ignition matter in that case? ie CDI or TCI types?
The tank to some extent looks like one from the UCE model but when I purchased it, it was pretty plain jane. I fitted the after-market rubber thigh pads which has given it the look :)
Can a OEM seat be modified for seat height without changing the quntity of foam padding? Primary reason I dont want to fiddle with the original padding is that it is slightly on the harder side. On the same lines as what tharian told me, the dealer also told me that all new seats are hard initially and they take some time to settle. So, should I wait for some more time before going in for any modifications?

Need an advise on another problem I am facing recently. The throw of beam of the headlight especially the high beam is very high. I had asked the mechanic to lower the beam to which he did some "jugaad" by manually pushing the upper portion of the reflector down. but it didnt last even for a day as probably due ti the vibrations, the bulb and along with it the beam went up again. When I went back to the mechanic, he said that this is a problem with Electra and the only permanent solution is cutting the front shocker to reduce its length. Has anybody else faced a similar problem or done a similar modification to the front shockers to eradicate a similar problem?

This case design is specific to Tci version. Was ~1500 rs in yr '10. Might take some time to get one these days as the model is out of production.

Period tank design has cut outs starting on the outer panel bottom edges, to clear cyl head. Uce's wrap around the head, looks bit bulbous too.

Similar problem? Yes. Similar modification? No.
Solution? Change the 'mechanic' :D

Received my consignment of spare parts from Delhi. Planning the following additions this week:-
1. Chrome headlight hood
2. Front mudguard flap
3. Front and rear spoke wheels
Hope to see my Red Bull in chrome draped footwear by day after.

Mate seat height can be modified using a lot of options like reducing the rear wheel from 19 inches to 18 inches, cutting the chassis to reduce height, going for a slim seat, etc. Since you have already bought spoke rims, it is too late to go for an 18 inch rear wheel. Also you don't want to fiddle with your OEM seat so using a slim seat is out of question. I am not sure about cutting the chassis as I have seen some mechanics practising this to reduce the height as low as an avenger. If I were you I would visit the seat maker and choose from seats which suits my height and comfort.
The solution provided by your mechanic is bull crap. The headlight can be adjusted to some extent by doing some mods like reflector alignment. I am not sure how this is done but yes it can be done without cutting the front shock ups.

Thanks for the advice. Finally my Red Bull is shod in Chrome. The alloys are gone and the shining new spokes have replaced them. And trust me, it a head turner now. The only one of its kind in the city. Posting one snap as of now. Will post more further. Pl let know what u feel about the looks.

Contrary to your idea, can the high beam alignment be sorted out by changing the front rims to 18 inch? Changing both rims might reduce the height but then the alignment of the high beam is levered up again. Also I read somewhere it might disrupt the gear and final drive ratio which is matched to the rear wheel diameter for optimum performance thus adversely affecting the top speed, mileage etc. What do you think about swapping the front rim for an 18 inch with discs as the next mod?