[Motard_Blr]

Originally Posted by ku69rd

Ook, then i suppose its better not to use the LED bars as suggested by Jaggu.

The light bar has its uses. Because of beam shape, the best use for it is as a fog lamp, assuming it is bright enough. If it's not bright enough it could be used a daytime running lamp. But a DRL should be switched off when the main headlamps are on to prevent glare to oncoming drivers.

[navsjab]

Originally Posted by SunnyBoi

My dad's kinetic always had a problem of super weak headlights. I got the headlights changed to the newer multi reflector ones, better bulbs but still the lights was pretty bad.
Conclusion : Best 1000 rupees I've spent on lighting!

I have had a kinetic honda with us much earlier and this is really a superb transformation. However, can you please repost an image with the stock headlamps on low or high beam? I cannot believe that the first image you posted is with the stock lamps on. That is hardly any light

Originally Posted by Motard_Blr

It takes high school physics to realise that painting/blocking a part of the lens will not change the way the light beam travels. Obviously the stupid rule was set by some babu with no scientific knowledge.

A simple way of understanding how this works is to try it for yourself by covering different portions of the headlamp with opaque paper and observing the effect from a distance. On low beam, covering the top of the headlamp will have the effect of reducing the beam throw on the road.

But won't covering the upper half on a straight beam of light obstruct it from passing through that area (shadowing) and therefore reduce glare at oncoming traffic? Just a though, I havnt tried it.

[When I said upper half, I mean to say upper half of the light source. In this case the huge LED bulbs being used or the equivalent on the front glass pane]

[Jaggu]

Originally Posted by ku69rd

Do you suggest using the old school of painting/stickering the top half to avoid the glare? Is that a doable solution?

Very well explained below.

Originally Posted by Motard_Blr

It takes high school physics to realise that painting/blocking a part of the lens will not change the way the light beam travels. Obviously the stupid rule was set by some babu with no scientific knowledge.

A simple way of understanding how this works is to try it for yourself by covering different portions of the headlamp with opaque paper and observing the effect from a distance. On low beam, covering the top of the headlamp will have the effect of reducing the beam throw on the road.

Originally Posted by ku69rd

Ook, then i suppose its better not to use the LED bars as suggested by Jaggu.

Unfortunately yes, unless the technology improves and an alternate solution incorporating lenses comes it will be difficult to get it legally valid option for on road use.

[SunnyBoi]

Originally Posted by motorpsycho

Just what I was looking for. I have been trying to augment the current head light on my Activa and this looks like a perfect addon.

A few questions -

• How do we wire this.
• Any way we can cut the glare on the on coming traffic?

Any mechanic can wire the LEDs. All you need is a 4 pin relay, tap the ignition battery out to a switch, switch goes to relay. One wire connects battery to relay, relay out goes to LED light and other wires to ground. ALl done.

I'm going to move these LEDs to the front mudguard, that should cut out most of the glare. Will post findings when I do so.

Originally Posted by Octane_Power

While searching for these did you find any LED lights which may not have a good spread but have good spot illumination? Can you share if you found any?

I have a cree 10W spot LED on my karizma. Pics here :

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/modifi...ml#post3592228

Originally Posted by amansanc

Brilliant stuff! I have a Kinetic Blaze which has the most pathetic headlight possible even after having a twin bulb setup! I might consider fitting this LED bar soon. I have a few questions:

1) Would this light put additional strain on the wiring loom of the scooter?
2) Can i connect it directly to my main headlights wire and make this the primary light?
3) Does the beam angle get disturbed due to the road vibrations?
4) Is a relay or LED adapter needed for the setup or is just plug and play?

1. Although the quoted wattage is 18W, I'm sure the light is barely consuming ~10-12W of power ( LEDs from china are overrated by a huge margin) and so it will put a minimum strain on electricals.

If you swap the rear tail lamp bulb + headlamp pilot/parking bulb to bright LED ones, you'll automatically save ~8W which should nullify the power consumption of these LEDs.

2. Yes but Not recommended

3. Depends on the mounts used for fixing the lamps. If done well, it wont vibrate.

4. Although a relay is strictly not needed, I added one anyway. I have given details above.

Originally Posted by Motard_Blr

From your pictures, the beam spread is wide but the throw is short. This makes me think that the light bar is better suited as fog lamp and therefore, should be mounted low, as in cars. In the current position it seems to be causing a lot of glare to oncoming vehicles.

Exactly! I wanted a floodlight since the scooter will be mainly used by my father. He will not exceed 40KMPH and doesnt need lights with excellent throw, rather the surroundings in front of him must be illuminated as much as possible.

I will move the light as below possible and report back on the glare.

[windrider]

how about if you fix that LED bar vertically on the lower left side of the scooter? wont that help in not blinding oncoming drivers??

[amansanc]

Originally Posted by SunnyBoi

1. Although the quoted wattage is 18W, I'm sure the light is barely consuming ~10-12W of power ( LEDs from china are overrated by a huge margin) and so it will put a minimum strain on electricals.

If you swap the rear tail lamp bulb + headlamp pilot/parking bulb to bright LED ones, you'll automatically save ~8W which should nullify the power consumption of these LEDs.

2. Yes but Not recommended

3. Depends on the mounts used for fixing the lamps. If done well, it wont vibrate.

4. Although a relay is strictly not needed, I added one anyway. I have given details above.

Thanks for the reply.

Will look at swapping other bulbs first then. I will ensure the light is fitted properly so that there is no movement over rough roads. Since flood light will blind oncoming traffic, is there any other option which can replace the headlight (since it's useless!)? Do not have an option of spot light like the one on your Karizma because it would look out of place on a scooter. Please advise.
Also waiting for your response on how does it work after fixing it to the mudguard. If it works fine, i will probably look at fixing it there then.

[arjithin]

I think enough said about using flood lighting on open road. I tried this with my Bullet500 and wasnt satisfied, then I ordered a pair of spot beams. The results are in this post.
(note: The beam is focussed closer than what you see in the pictures).

[avingodb]

I wonder why this thread has been put on Facebook, especially when there is no certainty on its impact on the oncoming traffic.
I think we need to be careful with what is shared on the social media.

[vsathyap]

Can you show a close up of the fitting done ? I have a good feeling someone will nick it when the vehicle is parked in busy areas / open streets. Its easy to cut the wires and remove some screws / bolts and take it off under 2-3 mins unless its been securely locked by good mounts / welded to the body panels.

[tsk1979]

These lights may look very pretty in pictures, and very bright too, but if you are planning to go any faster than 10 meters/second (30-40kmph), please do not use them.
Due to nature of the reflectors, these illuminate an area close to the vehicle, and kill your night vision.
This is the same affect HIDs have when used in stock reflectors.

As for theft issues, you need to use secure lock and key( a special non standard bolt with its own key).

[Rev_That_V8]

Here's some explanation for how you can go about illuminating the road and not an oncoming driver's eye

Covering a part of the lens with a good opaque object/paint will reduce light output but its a wrong way to do that.

Instead of covering the lens remove the fascia glass and paint the front surface of the bulb (the % of painting is up to your discretion of how much illumination you desire on the road).

some theory:

refer the above picture

There are two kinds of light rays:
1. 1,2,3,4,5....11 That get reflected (by hitting on the parabolic surface of
your reflector) i.e. directed rays.
2. a,b,c,d,...j,k That travel directly out without any reflection i.e. scattered
rays.

The rays that get reflected will be directed straight with meager scattering
and have a long range as they are directed rays and usually stay in your lane
thus, illuminating most of your lane alone.

The rays which get scattered will have a useless short range and will illuminate everything around your lane. Thus, flashing on a poor oncoming motorist.

So, we need to get rid of the scattered light . the light that comes from the front region of the bulb never gets reflected on the reflector causes this scattering.


Painting a small region with black enamel paint on the head of the bulb will solve the problem.
This is the technique most headlamp manufacturers used to follow by installing a silvery cap on to the bulb. Nowadays H4/H7 bulbs come with a black/gray top coating for the same reason.

@SunnyBoi: you can do that for your led strip as well by using a black permanent marker to put a dot on the LED bub . DO NOT paint or do anything on the reflector or the glass fascia it will simply give undesired results.

Hope this clears your doubt!

cheers,

[Sridutt]

Originally Posted by Rev_That_V8

Hope this clears your doubt!

Yup. I did wonder why some cars have a black cap on their halogen bulbs, while others don't. Toyota (mine's an etios) gave black cap. Hm! Neat diagram there.

[Motard_Blr]

Originally Posted by Rev_That_V8

Here's some explanation for how you can go about illuminating the road and not an oncoming driver's eye

Covering a part of the lens with a good opaque object/paint will reduce light output but its a wrong way to do that.

Instead of covering the lens remove the fascia glass and paint the front surface of the bulb (the % of painting is up to your discretion of how much illumination you desire on the road).

...

cheers,

The reason the front/tip of halogen bulbs are painted/coated is to prevent uncontrolled light emission from the front of the bulb. Ensuring all the light from bulb is reflected from the reflector gives control over the beam.

In an front lighting LED, such as what is commonly used, all the light is emmitted from the front. Covering the front will simply obscure the light.

You also said the same thing but contradicted yourself later.

A halogen bulb or LED puts out a lot of heat. Using normal paint on them would cause the paint to burn and also damage the bulb or LED.

In your sketch you have shown that the light is moving horizontally as in a high beam. Obscuring the centre of the lens has no effect on the direction of the light beam. This beam would still glare any person standing in front of it. The obscuring of the lens only has the effect of reducing the amount of light thereby reducing illumination for the driver.

A low beam light is designed in such a way that the light from the bulb is reflected from the top of the reflector at such an angle that the beam is directed downwards to the road. The bulb or filament position is critical.

[girimajiananth]

Originally Posted by SunnyBoi

Let there be light!
Conclusion : Best 1000 rupees I've spent on lighting!

I agree , it will be the best 1000rs ever spent. I am looking for something similar for my CBZ xtreme. Can you please share your mechanics number ? Is he located in Bangalore?

[tsk1979]

Originally Posted by Rev_That_V8

@SunnyBoi: you can do that for your led strip as well by using a black permanent marker to put a dot on the LED bub . DO NOT paint or do anything on the reflector or the glass fascia it will simply give undesired results.

Hope this clears your doubt!

cheers,

Please DO not do that. LED emitters are not like point sources. They are directional emitters.

A amount of scatter depends upon size of the emitter + optics.
To create a collimator lens with narrow beam, you need larger optics. There is no other way. Such LEDs are more expensive if you want to retain high transmission and also get a narrow beam.
The larger the LED surface area, the harder it is to make a collimater lens.

Black pens, spots etc., won't help at all for a LED.