Team-BHP - Can Stability go for a full toss because of a tyre ?
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I had replaced my front stock tyre with a Dunlop Maxi-Rib Plus 2.75-17 41P. I had completed about 8000 KMS after replacing both the tyres. Rear is Dunlop Geo-Cruiser 100/90-17 55P.

Can Stability go for a full toss because of a tyre ?-dunlop.jpg


I had searched for a better 17" tyre(esp. from the MRF stable) before making this choice, but due to no stock(and due to my busy schedule) I had to satisfy myself with this tyre. When I was searching, most of the shops at Cochin told that they are not having any Pulsar 17" tyres. I'm wondering how come there is a shortage for Pulsar tyres since it's the segment leader. And, it was hard for me to digest ! :Shockked:

Now, after fitting the Dunlop my Bajaj service personnel told me that this is one of the worst front tyres known to him & it would jeopardise both braking & handling !

Now after riding for about 8,000 KMS I feel that he was right, although I'm not 100% sure. I'm not getting any full stopping power with my front discs. Also, the handling is not upto mark.

And, I've checked all the essential factors that contribute to bad handling like swingarm, forks, bearings, wheels etc.

So I want opinions of TBHP-ians about this tyre. Please tell me whether this tyre is a utter crap or not....stupid:

Am not at all convinced that the Dunlop ribbed tyre is up to the mark, have always used MRF on my bike (Yamaha RX 100) and have found it to be really good. Ribbed tyres actually give better steering and line holding ability but does not offer much grip while braking while the converse is true if we use normal treaded tyres up front, then directional stability does go for a toss ! Yes, the RX does not have disc brakes up front while the pulsar does, so the above mentioned factors will be even more important on a pulsar I guess. Have ridden a pulsar but not that extensively to offer specific advise but I'm sure other T Bhpians will help you out here !

Friends who have used rib tyres on their Enfields with disc brake have nothing good to say bout them, their complaint is that it tends to skid easy and it dosn't brake straight. Guys using non rib tyres, Ceat Secura and Nylogrip, at the front on Enfield with disk brakes find that the vehicle stops better and holds the line under braking.

Hmmm... your tyre looks exactly like the tyre I'v recently installed on my Shogun... can't recall the exact model at the mooment. My tyre is 18" however.

Quote:

Now after riding for about 8,000 KMS I feel that he was right, although I'm not 100% sure. I'm not getting any full stopping power with my front discs. Also, the handling is not upto mark.
Can you elaborate on this? How exactly are you defining "full stopping power"? Do you mean the tyre skids and wheel locks up much earlier than your previous tyre? And whats wrong with the handling?

I'v been using this tyre since a month now, and my take is that it does exhibit which I could call "tyre squirm", while taking turns.

Also the gap between the treads seems to be excessive. This would result in reduced contact patch and also maybe make the tyre more prone to punctures from sharp objects. On the other hand it MAY result in better performance on wet roads (haven't checked this out yet as it hasn't rained since). But these are just my speculations... haven't had any punctures yet. I thought of this before buying it, but could not get anything better... and didn't want to hunt more. The Dunlop Zebra was there but the compound seemed harder and the tyre thinner. MRF I did not want to consider as MRF mostly uses harder rubber. And I hate the Zapper Y on my CBZ-X.

Have done uptil 95 kmph couple of times on this tyre. Have not noticed any apparent issues with braking or handling on this tyre (other than the squirm). But then the Shogun does not have a disc brake either. Also the tyre is of a softer compound and I guess it should be lighter too (though I forgot to compare weights of the front tyres before purchasing). A lighter tyre is a definite plus.

In brief, I'd say this is not the best tyre you can have. But saying its "utter crap" would be an exaggeration.

Lastly, have you checked if you your air pressure is right? Makes a huge difference. I'm sure you know most gauges are inaccurate.

People still buy ribbed tyres?

Well, I bought mine nearly 8 years ago, the Yamaha has run only around 25K kms after that !

I don't know why, but 4 tyre dealers dissuaded me from going for the Zapper FS/Dunlop Zebra kind of pattern for a bike without front discs. None of them were able to provide any logical reason for this other than saying that the bike will skid and grip will suk, etc.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Raccoon
Can you elaborate on this? How exactly are you defining "full stopping power"? Do you mean the tyre skids and wheel locks up much earlier than your previous tyre? And whats wrong with the handling?

By "full stopping power", I meant the grip is missing(like when we wear different footwear).

The tyre is lighter than my old tyre and I've read somewhere that this pattern is good for rainy seasons !
Quote:

Lastly, have you checked if you your air pressure is right? Makes a huge difference. I'm sure you know most gauges are inaccurate.
The tyre will behave in the same way whatever be the pressure !

Quote:

Originally Posted by mithun (Post 1301345)
The tyre will behave in the same way whatever be the pressure !

That is not true ! If the tyre is under inflated, then contact patch is more and therefore grip on the road is better. Likewise, if the tyre is over inflated, contact patch is less which translates into lesser grip on the road. In fact, this knowledge is used in sandy regions where tyre pressure is deliberately reduced to get better grip and purchase from the surface.

How old is this tire?
The year and week of manufacture shall be printed on the side wall.
If the tire is older than 4 ~ 5 years, the rubber has gone hard and it is not advisable to use it.


Quote:

Originally Posted by Raccoon (Post 1301587)
^^^Absolutely. Tyre pressures make a huge difference. I suspect you are saying that because you are checking with inaccurate gauges(s).

within 15 mins, so reusing this post to say +1 to the quote.

For a good fun filled ride fill -5 psi (than req) in rear and +5 psi (than req) in front.
Watch your bike sway away to glory.

^^^Absolutely. Tyre pressures make a huge difference. I suspect you are saying that because you are checking with inaccurate gauges(s).

Quote:

Originally Posted by kannan666 (Post 1301568)
That is not true ! If the tyre is under inflated, then contact patch is more and therefore grip on the road is better. Likewise, if the tyre is over inflated, contact patch is less which translates into lesser grip on the road. In fact, this knowledge is used in sandy regions where tyre pressure is deliberately reduced to get better grip and purchase from the surface.

What I've meant is that there is not too much difference !

Quote:

How old is this tire?
The tyre was less than 6 months old when I had purchased it & 7 months have passed since.

Btw, are you on alloys? If yes, did you get the wheel balanced?

Also, did you check that the bead has been seated evenly throught?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Raccoon (Post 1301792)
Btw, are you on alloys? If yes, did you get the wheel balanced?

Also, did you check that the bead has been seated evenly throught?

I'm having spoke wheels. Recently done wheel truing for both the wheels.

^^^The truing is done is a pretty crude way. Suggest you check yourself if its satisfactory.

One more thing comes to mind - hope you have checked that the tube size exactly matches the tyre size and that the tube is genuine. When I changed my rear tyre couple months ago, the shopkeeper actually passed on a bigger size tube... and later when I confronted him, they had the cheek to say it makes no difference so they did nothing wrong!!!


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