[lordofgondor]

Originally Posted by suman

Just a note of caution about Tandi - last week, on two consecutive days, Tandi was out of fuel. Couple of people I know who were planning on refuelling there had to change their plans. (I didn't have issues since the Safari has a 65 litre tank which I'd filled up in Leh & it was giving me a mileage of close to 10 kmpl).

Well I'd say that's not totally unexpected. Moral of the story for me: tank up at Manali, both car and jerry can(s).

[cutdcrap]

@kumarji: There is a petrol pump in Karu (IOC). So, you do not need to head back to Leh.
I started at 5:45 am from Srinagar, reached Jawahar tunnel around 7 am. Had to wait till 730 because that is when it opens for traffic after maintenance. Reached 11:45 pm back in Delhi. (Total 18 hrs, Dist. covered : 925 kms approx.)

No idea about stay at Upshi.

@lordofgondor: This looks good. On Day 9, when returning from MLa, you can visit Shay Palace, and Hemis Gompa. Hemis is 7 kms from Karu, towards Upshi (50rs. entry ticket - close from 1-130pm, due to lunch). Shay is enroute to Leh.

BTW, also noteworthy is the point that Changla has a lot of snow at this time. It was risky seeing some Scorpios sliding. Please budget some time to negotiate the 7 km stretch of snow. About 10 kms from Pangong Tso, the road almost does not exist. There is a huge downslide amidst big stones. You need to be extra cautious of your car there.

Khardungla is a breeze at this time, but the restaturant at the top only has black tea and maggi.

Only problem on the Manali-Leh way is the Nakila - Lachlung la belt, which has a lot of snow, and broken roads. Barachala la is equally tiresome. There are some real pagal nullahs enroute which you have to take care of.

Will post my travelogue soon for your reference. I wish you all the best for your journey, and look forward to pics.

[hvkumar]

There is a petrol pump in Karu (IOC).

Wonderful hearing that - makes us rethink our own route plan! Thanks.

BTW, did you go to Nubra? Do you have info on the alternative-day-road-is-open problem? Which days are those?
Look forward to your travelogue.

Manali-Leh way is the Nakila - Lachlung la belt, which has a lot of snow, and broken roads. Barachala la is equally tiresome. There are some real pagal nullahs enroute which you have to take care of.

Give me September anytime - roads are less insane compared to June.

[suman]

Originally Posted by hvkumar

BTW, did you go to Nubra? Do you have info on the alternative-day-road-is-open problem? Which days are those?
Look forward to your travelogue.

HVK, I thought road to Nubra is open everyday, just that they regulate the up & down traffic timings at Khardungla (actually from South Pallu & North Pallu)? It flows one way at a time & they are a little sticky about allowing you to come back if it is after 2pm

[cutdcrap]

Kumarji, I didnt go to Nubra. Turned back from KLa, where we met 4 bikers from Pune (Tata Power). So, not sure about the answer.

@suman: Not sure about North Pallu, but South Pallu has no such restriction of one way traffic.

The roads upto South Pallu from Leh are a breeze. After that, they are broken upto KLa.

[lordofgondor]

Originally Posted by cutdcrap

@lordofgondor: This looks good. On Day 9, when returning from MLa, you can visit Shay Palace, and Hemis Gompa. Hemis is 7 kms from Karu, towards Upshi (50rs. entry ticket - close from 1-130pm, due to lunch). Shay is enroute to Leh.

BTW, also noteworthy is the point that Changla has a lot of snow at this time. It was risky seeing some Scorpios sliding. Please budget some time to negotiate the 7 km stretch of snow. About 10 kms from Pangong Tso, the road almost does not exist. There is a huge downslide amidst big stones. You need to be extra cautious of your car there.

Khardungla is a breeze at this time, but the restaturant at the top only has black tea and maggi.

Only problem on the Manali-Leh way is the Nakila - Lachlung la belt, which has a lot of snow, and broken roads. Barachala la is equally tiresome. There are some real pagal nullahs enroute which you have to take care of.

Will post my travelogue soon for your reference. I wish you all the best for your journey, and look forward to pics.

That's lotta useful intel, my hearty thanks for that and your good wishes man. The wait to view your travelogue's already begun. And I am dying to click pictures of my own.

I guess me's gonna follow your advice about day 9, sounds good.

About getting to Pangong; I hope the 10Km you told about can be navigated over in a sedan? On my part, I'll be extremely careful. There's one positive though, Esteem handles slides a lot better.

I am hoping that since I'd do most of my travelling in the 6 AM - 2 PM slot, the nullahs would not present big problems. Rest is upto mother nature I guess.

[lordofgondor]

Hey folks, need your help on drafting ILP's. The places that required them and I'd be traveling to are:
1. Nubra Valley
2. Pangong Tso
3. Tso Moriri
4. Tso Kar

Following are the routes I am planning to write in the form while obtaining ILP:
1. Leh - Khardung La - Khalsar - Diskit - Hunder
2. Leh - Karu - Chang La - Tangtse - Lukung - Spangmik - Pangong Tso
3. Leh - Upshi - Mahe - Sumdo - Karzok - Tso Moriri
4. Tso Moriri - Tso Kar - Debring - Sarchu

Please correct me where I am wrong.

One stupid question; do we need to mention the coming back routes (to Leh) in the permits too?

[hvkumar]

Please take separate permit for Marisimik la, not covered within permit for P Tso. Route is Lukung-Phobrang-M La-Pobrang-Lukung.

You can also check out Wari La - pass directly connecting Nubra Valley with Shakti en route P Tso

[phamilyman]

What hvkumar saab - that Karu pump has been there since 2007 - there's a DIESEL pump at Upshi as well.

motorcyle trip to heaven leh ladakh around late june - India Travel Forum | IndiaMike.com

[lordofgondor]

Originally Posted by hvkumar

Please take separate permit for Marisimik la, not covered within permit for P Tso. Route is Lukung-Phobrang-M La-Pobrang-Lukung.

You can also check out Wari La - pass directly connecting Nubra Valley with Shakti en route P Tso

Right sir, I indeed overlooked Marismik La, thanks for pointing out.

Would Wari La be motorable in an Esteem? Would I need to get permit for this Pass? Also could you provide me the route from say, Hunder/Diksit to Wari La. So essentially my ILP form should also mention this:

Hunder - Wari La - Shakti - Pangong Tso - Spangmik?

Cheers!
LoG

[cutdcrap]

Originally Posted by lordofgondor

Hey folks, need your help on drafting ILP's. The places that required them and I'd be traveling to are:
1. Nubra Valley
2. Pangong Tso
3. Tso Moriri
4. Tso Kar

Following are the routes I am planning to write in the form while obtaining ILP:
1. Leh - Khardung La - Khalsar - Diskit - Hunder
2. Leh - Karu - Chang La - Tangtse - Lukung - Spangmik - Pangong Tso
3. Leh - Upshi - Mahe - Sumdo - Karzok - Tso Moriri
4. Tso Moriri - Tso Kar - Debring - Sarchu

Please correct me where I am wrong.

One stupid question; do we need to mention the coming back routes (to Leh) in the permits too?

You don't need to describe the whole route for ILPs. Just mention the destination. Yes, a separate permit is required for MLa. Just mention:
1. Khardung La
2. Nubra Valley
3. Pangong Tso
4. Marsimek La
5. Tso Moriri
6. Tso Kar (not sure)

The details required for permits are:
Your Name
Father's Name
Your Age / DOB
Address
Photo Identity

Carry your DL and your company ID card / any photo ID proof, and that should be good. Please make 7-8 copies of the permits as you get them since you need to show them at different places.

For KLa, they will be checked at South Pallu.
For Pangong, checked at Tangtse.

LOG, the road from Pangong to Spangmik is in bad condition. It is about 7 kms drive.

[hvkumar]

Karu pump has been there since 2007 - there's a DIESEL pump at Upshi as well

Thanks, phamilyman, very useful info, am re-routing my own drive plan to go directly from Pangong to Tso Morir without returning to Leh

Would Wari La be motorable in an Esteem? Would I need to get permit for this Pass?

Never been to Wari La, but am told that no one checks for permits on the route from Kalasar to Shakti. I am planning to drive from Hunder to Pangong via Wari La (to avoid detouring via Leh) if it is open and navigable. Road can be bad, I am told.

[lordofgondor]

Originally Posted by cutdcrap

Carry your DL and your company ID card / any photo ID proof, and that should be good. Please make 7-8 copies of the permits as you get them since you need to show them at different places.

LOG, the road from Pangong to Spangmik is in bad condition. It is about 7 kms drive.

Cool, that's settled now. Appreciate your plethora of info.
I guess it's gonna be adventurous driving to Spangmik then.

Originally Posted by hvkumar

Never been to Wari La, but am told that no one checks for permits on the route from Kalasar to Shakti. I am planning to drive from Hunder to Pangong via Wari La (to avoid detouring via Leh) if it is open and navigable. Road can be bad, I am told.

Guess I'll decide to venture onto Wari La by getting intel from locals only. Going from Nubra - Pangong is definitely tempting.

[lordofgondor]

Hey folks, I'm back with another query. A colleague of mine told me that the inner line permits are being given for a max of 7 days. In case you're there for more days, you gotta get another permit after the first one expires. Is that true?

@cutdcrap: Still waiting for your travelogue bro.

[sen2009]

The first mega redemption activity of 22k EMI for my Safari is coming up.

It will start either 1st or 2nd October, 09 night and will end 16th Oct night/ 17th Afternoon. (I am not writting "approximate", "If things go well", "As per initial plan"... etc. as they are quite obvious)

The route plan is as following -

Day 0 (8-11 PM) to Day 1 (EOD)
Mumbai - Vadodara - Ahmedabad - Udaipur - Chittaurgarh - Jaipur - Rewari - Panipat
(I want to bypass Delhi by going from Rewari to Panipat through NH 71, NH 71 via Rohtak. Help with directions, waypoints in this region will be greatly helpful)


Day2
Panipat Sight seeing - The grand panipat battle ground (if it's there) and Kala Aam
(Please help me in this. I want to see the great battle ground)

Panipat - Zirakpur -Panchkhula - Parwanoo - Chail - Narkanda - Hatu Peak


Day 3
Hatu Peak - narkanda - Baghi - Thanedar/Kotgarh - Rampur - Sarahan


Day 4
Sarahan - Karcham - sangla - Chitkul

Day 5
Rest at Chitkul

Day 6
Chitkul - Reckong Peo - Kalpa - Roghi - Giabong - Ropa Valley

Day 7
Ropa Valley - Malling Nullah - Tabo

Day 8
Tabo - Dhankar Monastery - Mud (Pin valley) - Kaza

Day 9
Kaza Sight Seeing - Kye, Kibber, Tashigang, langza, Komic, Dumul
Kaza - Losar

Day 10
Losar - Kunzum La - Batal - Chandertal (Stay if campsites are available)
Else Chandertal - Batal - Chatru

Day 11
Chander Tal/ Chatru - Gramphu - Rohtang La - manali

Day 12
Rest at Manali

Day 13
Manali - Bilaspur - Kiratpur - Chandigarh-Panipat - Rohtak - Rewari - bahror

Day14
Bahror - Jaipur - Udaipur - Ahmedabad - Mumbai

That makes me reach Mumbai 15th night with a day and half to spare. This is my buffer if Malling Nullah or something else acts up. I am especially afraid of snow fall. Recent snowfalls have created quite a lot of troubles. I am keeping an keen eye on this page for latest updates -
Road conditions - latest reports HP/Ladakh - Page 32 - India Travel Forum | IndiaMike.com

As for preparations, I am carrying the following special items -

1. Car invertor - (1750/-) Cigarette lighter to 230V AC - Need to check if it indeed works. If it does, I'll save quite a lot on purchase of additional camera batteries.

2. Tow Rope - Received from jaysmokesleaves. Thanks dude!

3. An wooden plank (6' x 2') to rest on the rear seats creating a bunk for one person. (Need to see how practical this turns out)

4. Roof carrier - Man does this make my car look ugly! But with 4 bengali tourists (with adequate luggage) ... no choice!


I'll keep adding my preparation details here. Meanwhile any (i mean ANY) help will be appreciated. Especially if someone can help map of the region.